Scott in Houston

Hey, for the first time ever, my battery is dead on my 996TT. It's been sitting for weeks, and before parking, I washing and listening to radio. Well, it has enough juice to turn on interior lights, etc. It just can't turn it over enough to start. I've heard and read that using cables can be bad on an elec system even when used properly. What is the best way to charge it back again or start it? Does Sears have a charger? Something that goes through the cig lighter maybe? 2nd part... How do I know if I need a new battery after it's started? (I'm guessing I can figure it out, but looking for rule of thumb) 3rd and last part... What's the best replacement battery if I need one? I was told a gel battery if you track your car at all. Any suggestions? Thanks! Scott

I noticed while driving with the windows down a squeaking sound coming from the car next to me. It sounded like the old POS that it looked like. Then, he was gone and the sound was still there. It was my car! Basically, it's an intermittent squeak varying with my speed. When I put some pressure on the brakes it goes away and then returns when my foot comes off the brakes. What's the fix for this? It's just annoying. I'm assuming my brakes are slightly rubbing? Any help? Thanks!

The headlight's adjustment thing and that opening aren't always lined up well.

They come in handy in Texas and the back roads. :D

Loren, do you find my report on my high beams being so off strange? My low beams are near even and the highs are way off.

As usual... anything I touch either mechanical or otherwise involving tools and my hands, is never easy for me. First off, I noticed before starting this process that my low beams were way off. The right side (passenger) much much higher than the driver side. This is what prompted me to start this process of adjusting. I did notice that my high beams were even however. Now, after finding that I needed to remove my headlight to get to the adjuster, I got the low beams close to even, but I left the passenger side a little higher for signs, etc. Well, the high beams are now way off. The driver side high beam is much higher than passenger side. Sigh.... Anyway, I'm going to just take it to the freakin' dealer. I am going to ask to have it done while I watch so I can learn. Lastly, the headlight that was removed isn't quite as solidly in place as it once was. I can't seem to tighten it anymore either, but also don't want to try too hard and break it. It's not bouncing around, but it's just not the same as the other side. If I push on it, it will move just a little where as the other side won't budge. ..... why do I bother with this stuff? I suck at it. :cursing:

One of my TT headlights is way too high. I get people telling me that one light is on brights all the time. Oncoming traffic flashes me all the time. It also just doesn't look as good from the front. I want to make it the same level as the other light. Do I have to pull the light out of the front or can I get to the leveling thing while it's inside its housing. I don't want to remove it myself... I'm a wuss who breaks stuff, so should I attempt it myself or take it in to the dealer? :) PS. I did a search and never saw a post by a Turbo owner, so I wanted to make sure TT lights were done the same as the others. Thanks in advance!

I don't have a bleeder yet, and I'm just trying to lower the level, so I will probably go the syringe route. Thanks for the offer David. I'll just use one of the needles that my friends and I share at parties. (POOR TASTE I know, but those jokes are just too easy) :)

Hmm... it doesn't seem to be a seperate piece. Note that I have already removed 1 filter after removing the cap. Are there 2? The first filter I removed has a mesh bottom w/ 3 spokes on it also.

I have a '02 C2 996. I think the dealer over filled my brake fluid last time it was bled. At the DE, I had an issue with it coming out of the reservoir a little bit. Sure enough, when the car was cool and I checked, it was past the "max" marker in the reservoir. I just bought a baster to remove the excess fluid. I removed the cap and the filter, and below that is this.... (see pic) How do I get past this to get at the fluid? I was able to drain the fluid that comes in above this thing, but I can't get past it. It looks like a flux capaciter! :) What is it really? The way it's setup is there is this 3-armed dealy underneath and the reservoir itself is kind of holding it in place. You can see that the 3-armed thing sits underneath the plastic. That plastic is part of the reservoir, so I cannot see how it can be removed. Without removing any of this stuff I was able to get the fluid down below the "Max" mark on the reservoir, but I'd like to get it a little farther lower.

Hex is 13mm Not sure of shaft.

These are the best pics I can get.

Thanks B-man. I'll see if I can get a good picture. It's hard to do in the garage b/c my lighting is so bad. I'll see if I can outside later. Defective part is a good point. I need to make double sure that 63 ft-lbs is right. Loren, can you post one of those tech pages that shows this info so I can take it w/ me? That way it should be warranty coverage. I'll show them the torque wrench etc so they'll know.

Thanks. I'm just going a couple of miles and very slow. Thanks for the input. I think it will be drivable b/c worse case scenario, I ruin it more than it is, and it's already proabably hosed. I am so mad at myself right now I can barely see straight.

I hate myself right now. I set the torque wrench to 63 ft-lbs, but it still broke. Man, this is why I shouldn't do these things... How do they get this out?! I'm also assuming I can drive to the dealer to get it fixed.

Well son of a .... The nut broke! $%#@ I have to take it in now. I'll find out all the answers then. Rats.

I appreciate those responses. I was a little weary of it too. I trusted him. He also said it doesn't change alignment at all, but just camber. I will say on the drive home, my car tracked totally straight on level roads as it did before. Also during the DE, I noticed a decrease in understeer by quite a bit. Also, my fronts are about done for, so I know I'll do an alignment when I change them anyway. Basically, we moved it and moved it back to the exact same spot so it appears, but I hear what you're saying. Hmm... maybe it was a dumb idea. I guess I really need to find out 'exactly' what it did. Anyone know for sure what it did?

Hmm... Well, then I have another question. At the DE, a friend loosened them, then removed that black cap and moved the piece that's underneath towards the center of the car on both sides. It was moved maybe a centimeter. The bolts were tightened and it stayed that way for the DE. We had marked where the bolts were before moving it, and after the DE, moved it back to where the bolts lined up w/ their original markings again. What did that actually do if it didn't adjust the camber?

wow. That's a lot more than I thought. Is there any question as to which I'm talking about. Just to make sure (before I go tighten them), here's a picture. And up close.... it's the 3 silver nuts that are in a triangle shape around the black disck.... Thanks Loren. Sorry I'm so anal, but I just want to make sure. I'm still a newb at working on my car in any form. :D

I need the torque specifications for them. They are the bolts that are located under the plastic on the left and right side of the car and they allow you to adjust the camber of the front wheels. At the DE, I allowed a person more technical than me, to give me some negative camber, and afterwards, we returned them to their original position, but we tightened by hand. He said he knew the torque requirement was low, so didn't tighten too much, but I want to make sure they're correct. Any help Loren? If you don't know what I'm talking about, I'll take a picture and upload. TIAb

I just finished a Texas, August DE. HOT! Anyway, on the very last run session, I got a brake fluid warning light which isn't too uncommon out there w/ our cars b/c the high lateral Gs can cause the sensors to misread the level, but I pulled in to make sure (for obvious reasons). Backing up a bit, the dealer bled and changed my brake fluid the week before. At one time in the weekend, I noticed the fluid level was above the "Max" marker in the reservoir, but I figured that was because I had been running, and it was just hot. Now back to my story, when the sensor light came on, I pulled in to check it out. I turned off the car and restarted it. The light was gone, so I figured it was ok. Then, I pulled into a garage to make sure. I looked at the reservoir, and there was a small amount of brake fluid on the outside of the reservoir. Basically, there's a rim around the top of the reservoir, that looks like it's there for just that purpose, catching excess fluid. I have never seen that. The guy next to me told me that it probably boiled and that it is normal for some to come out when it does. This did not make me happy. Is this truly "OK"? I don't think much came out, and I don't think any ran over and down into my trunk area (should I be more concerned about that?). What should be my next step? 1) take it to dealer who bled and replaced fluid on my last service? 2) not worry about it and chalk it up to a hot hot day at the track 3) other Number 1 bothers me, because I worry that they may 'cover up' any mistake they made that caused it such as over filling or whatever. I really know nothing about this topic, so any help is appreciated! Scott in Houston

Can you send it to me too? :)

Randy, go to Harbor Freight on the web if you can't find it a costco. I used one at Rob's house and it's awesome. Super light, and easy to use. We hiked up Todd's Boxster with it for the brake job. I almost bought one that day after using it, but since I don't really need to raise my car, I didn't. :) Will you have the new wheels for the next DE? What rubber are you putting on them?

How important is the brand? I am thinking of flushing my brake fluid. My pads are fine, so they don't need changing, but wondered if there is a specific brand that is better than others or does it matter? Scott in Houston PS..... CONGRATS Loren. The board is awesome!