ebaker

I've read these instructions several times and they don't make sense. I think where they say to TIGHTEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves, it should be translated to LOOSEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves. It seems that you would have to loosen the fittings to bleed out the air bubbles. (???)

thanks

On my turbo these codes were from a bad MAF - caused a lean misfire.

Loren, are there instructions for adding oil ? My spoiler moves but gives the error message every time it extends. One hydraulic ram has a film of oil on the shaft.

Chances are your engine will not last long. Let's see... a TT engine is around $50k or so. Ouch!

I see more and more this type of behavior. Pardon me, but that's not Porsche behavior. It's more old muscle car type behavior.

Give the guy a break, it's very easy to over rev a 996TT in first gear.

Loren, do you have a list of recalls and "Workshop Campaigns" ?

I'm having problems with the air injection system also. There is a rough schematic on the inside of the engine compartment lid.

Now I have a question I'm hoping someone can help with. I got an alarm code some weeks ago for the secondary air injection system. The garage checked out the air pump and determined it was bad. It was drawing way to much amperage and overheating. The alarm persisted. They cleaned out the inlet manifold spiders, the alarm still persists. What other things are the logical next steps here? Any advice is appreciated.

Check the small vacuum hoses that connect to the diverter valves.

Some early 2001's had solid spoke wheels. The 2002 has a glovebox and Bose radio.

It's a characteristic of many hydraulic clutch systems. Crankshaft end play and irregularity in the clutch release fingers slightly push the slave cylinder pushrod in. This extra free play makes the clutch release and engage closer to the floor. Pumping the clutch once will take out the free play.

The clutch may be worn. The pedal gets higher as the lining gets thinner. A clutch system that has air will have a low pedal.

Does anyone off hand know the weight for the 11 and 8 inch oem Type II holllow cast wheels that came on my 2002 TT? Thinking of going to forged wheels if they are significantly lighter.

JIm

About 21# front, 25.5# rear.

2469 P1128 0-116 page 1

p1128

Printed in Germany – 4, 2002

0-116 P1128

360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 -

Below Limit

Diagnosis conditions

• Oxygen sensing system active

• Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA)

• Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW)

• Engine temperature greater than 60 °C

Possible fault cause

♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

♦ Fuel pressure too high

♦ Fuel injector leaking

♦ EVAP canister purge valve open

Affected terminals

-

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

♦ If DTC P0445 (fuel tank vent valve - short to ground) is stored, correct this fault first. An open EVAP canister

purge valve can lead to the lean threshold being reached.

♦ For vehicles in the USA, the upper load range will probably not be reached. The only case in which a fault could

be stored is during driving while towing a trailer or caravan on a hill.

♦ Contrary adaptation values in connection with misfiring point to incorrectly adjusted control timescheck control

times and adjust if necessary.

♦ If the fuel tank reserve light is switched on, no fault is entered.

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check signal from MAF

sensor.

♦ Connect special tool 9637.

♦ Measure voltage at pin III/23

and ground

♦ Switch on the ignition.

0.9 to 1.1 V. Replace MAF sensor

♦ Start the engine. Approx. 1,4 V

2 Check fuel pressure

Note!

DME 7.8 DME 7.8

2469 P1128 0-116 page 2

p1128

0

Printed in Germany – 4, 2002

360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 -

Above Limit

Diagnosis conditions

• Oxygen sensing system active

• Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA)

• Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW)

• Engine temperature greater than 60 °C

Possible fault cause

♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

♦ Intake air system leaking

♦ Fuel pressure too low

♦ Volume supply of fuel pump too low

♦ Fuel injectors fouled

3 Check fuel pressure regulator,

vacuum connection

and fuel return line

♦ Remove vacuum hose from fuel

pressure regulator

♦ Connect special tool 9103/2 to

vacuum hose

♦ Start the engine.

♦

0.4 - 0.6 bar Check the intake air

system for leaks

and check vacuum

line to fuel pressure

regulator for restrictions.

♦ Check housing of fuel pressure

regulator for damage and deformation

Replace the fuel

pressure regulator if

it is damaged with

the result that the

spring pre-tensioning

is increased

4 Check EVAP canister

purge valve

♦ Disconnect hose from EVAP canister

purge valve to intake system

at EVAP canister purge

valve

♦ Remove connector of EVAP canister

purge valve

♦ Connect special tool 9160/1 to

EVAP canister purge valve

♦ Generate vacuum of approx. 0.7

bar

The vacuum must

not fall below 0 bar

after 10 minutes

5 Check fuel injectors for

leaks

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

DME 7.8

2469 P1128 0-116 page 3

DME 7.8

p1128

0

Printed in Germany – 4, 2002

♦ PCV valve leaks

♦ Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged

Affected terminals

-

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

♦ Air leaks ahead of the oxygen sensors can lead to a fault in adaptation Check exhaust system for leaks.

♦ Contrary adaptation values in connection with misfiring point to incorrectly adjusted control timescheck control

times and adjust if necessary.

♦ If the fuel tank reserve light is switched on, no fault is entered.

Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Close cap of oil filler neck

properly or replace the

seal

2 Check signal from MAF

sensor.

♦ Connect special tool 9637.

♦ Measure voltage at pin III/23

and ground

♦ Switch on the ignition.

0.9 to 1.1 V. Replace MAF sensor

♦ Start the engine. Approx. 1,4 V

3 Check exhaust system for

leaks

4 Check for air leaks in

intake air system

5 Check PCV valve for leaks

6 Check fuel pressure

7 Check volume supply of

fuel pump

8 Fuel injectors fouled ♦ If preceding Check Points were

negative, the fuel injectors may

be fouled

♦ Clean fuel injectors (ultrasonic

cleaning device) or replace them

Note!

Correct, 75W-90 gear oil.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Loren.

The mechanic at the dealer said any API GL-5 rated hypoid gear oil in 75W-90 weight would be fine in the front differential. I am planning on using Red Line 75W-90 API GL-5 + Hypoid Gear Oil. I'm guessing this is a good gear oil...any comments?

I think GL5 will cause problems in the rear transaxle. It's too slippery. The levels of antifriction/antiwear additives are too high. This keeps the syncros from working properly. Redline makes GL4 oils in regular and light weight I believe.

Seems like I remember reading that it's on the back of the radio.

Many auto parts stores carry it. It's on Ebay. It's used in VW, Audi, Jaguars, and others. I got a can at Discount Auto Parts. Several local foreign car oriented auto parts stores also carry it.

Mine seemed to do well with about 33/37

It may be the o ring that goes on the end of the tube that goes thru the center of the filter element.

From the shop manual. I have not done this (yet). You should probably use tubing wrenches on the oil lines.

1)remove rear bumper cover

2)remove center heat shield and intercooler assembly and side heat shield(s)

3)undo upper oil pipe at the uppermost connection while counterholding the larger connection below with an "open ring wrench" (tubing wrench)

4)remove upper turbo support nut/bolt

5)pull vac line

6)undo 2 oil pipes on oil container

7)pull pressure pipe from turbo (hose clamp)

8)undo 4 turbo flange to cat nuts

9)undo header from head

10)remove turbo with header

Install (use new seals/metal gaskets)

1)fit turbo to header

2install header to head, torque in an inner to outer pattern to 18 ft lbs then to 25 ft lbs

3)tighten 4 flange to cat nuts

4)tighten 2 oil tank lines 22 ft lb

5)attach upper turbo support then attach upper oil line 15 ft lb

6)install side heat shields

7)install pressure pipe with hose clamp

8)install intercooler 17 ft lb

9)tighten sheetmetal nuts on side heat shields

10)install intercooler hoses , "snap" into place

11)carry out "oil level and tightness test"

It might be a good idea to crank the car with the fuel pump relay pulled to oil the turbos before you start the engine.

Many have said that Fabspeed is too loud.

The spoiler can be easily stolen if it's in the up position.

When I changed the plugs on my 01 turbo I noticed several small surface cracks (maybe 1mm deep) on all the coils, particularly on the round part covered by the rubber boot. I don't think any cracks were visible on the external part of the coils. No carbon tracks. The car runs fine, including in heavy rain. When I had the car apart I called the dealer tech and he seemed to think it was a big problem. When I took the car in for warranty work they replaced the MAF and fuel pump and cured the full load high speed miss it was having. I don't think they pulled a coil and actually looked at the cracks. The tech said he checked the coils and they were OK. I'm 99% sure he did not pull a coil for inspection. I was not mentioned on the final work order. Is this anything to worry about? My warranty expires in June. Should I ask to talk to the regional PCNA rep? There were also a couple of other issues with the car the dealer could not replicate that were never addressed.

I noticed on the Boxter forum that cracked coils were found as a fault on a PPI.link

The first thing I'd look for is a vacuum leak.

I believe G05 antifreeze is similar to the Porsche/Audi G12. A 996 turbo holds 6 gallons so a change with the official porsche coolant will be expensive.

The service writer looked mine up on the Porsche network using the VIN.