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ebaker

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Everything posted by ebaker

  1. I've read these instructions several times and they don't make sense. I think where they say to TIGHTEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves, it should be translated to LOOSEN the hydraulic line until the cylinder moves. It seems that you would have to loosen the fittings to bleed out the air bubbles. (???)
  2. On my turbo these codes were from a bad MAF - caused a lean misfire.
  3. Loren, are there instructions for adding oil ? My spoiler moves but gives the error message every time it extends. One hydraulic ram has a film of oil on the shaft.
  4. Give the guy a break, it's very easy to over rev a 996TT in first gear.
  5. Loren, do you have a list of recalls and "Workshop Campaigns" ?
  6. Check the small vacuum hoses that connect to the diverter valves.
  7. Some early 2001's had solid spoke wheels. The 2002 has a glovebox and Bose radio.
  8. It's a characteristic of many hydraulic clutch systems. Crankshaft end play and irregularity in the clutch release fingers slightly push the slave cylinder pushrod in. This extra free play makes the clutch release and engage closer to the floor. Pumping the clutch once will take out the free play.
  9. The clutch may be worn. The pedal gets higher as the lining gets thinner. A clutch system that has air will have a low pedal.
  10. 2469 P1128 0-116 page 1 p1128 Printed in Germany – 4, 2002 0-116 P1128 360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 - Below Limit Diagnosis conditions • Oxygen sensing system active • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA) • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW) • Engine temperature greater than 60 °C Possible fault cause ♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor ♦ Fuel pressure too high ♦ Fuel injector leaking ♦ EVAP canister purge valve open Affected terminals - Diagnosis/Troubleshooting ♦ If DTC P0445 (fuel tank vent valve - short to ground) is stored, correct this fault first. An open EVAP canister purge valve can lead to the lean threshold being reached. ♦ For vehicles in the USA, the upper load range will probably not be reached. The only case in which a fault could be stored is during driving while towing a trailer or caravan on a hill. ♦ Contrary adaptation values in connection with misfiring point to incorrectly adjusted control timescheck control times and adjust if necessary. ♦ If the fuel tank reserve light is switched on, no fault is entered. Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check signal from MAF sensor. ♦ Connect special tool 9637. ♦ Measure voltage at pin III/23 and ground ♦ Switch on the ignition. 0.9 to 1.1 V. Replace MAF sensor ♦ Start the engine. Approx. 1,4 V 2 Check fuel pressure Note! DME 7.8 DME 7.8 2469 P1128 0-116 page 2 p1128 0 Printed in Germany – 4, 2002 360 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 - Above Limit Diagnosis conditions • Oxygen sensing system active • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 250 to 350 seconds (USA) • Time elapsed after engine start-up: 302 to 402 seconds (RoW) • Engine temperature greater than 60 °C Possible fault cause ♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor ♦ Intake air system leaking ♦ Fuel pressure too low ♦ Volume supply of fuel pump too low ♦ Fuel injectors fouled 3 Check fuel pressure regulator, vacuum connection and fuel return line ♦ Remove vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator ♦ Connect special tool 9103/2 to vacuum hose ♦ Start the engine. ♦ 0.4 - 0.6 bar Check the intake air system for leaks and check vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator for restrictions. ♦ Check housing of fuel pressure regulator for damage and deformation Replace the fuel pressure regulator if it is damaged with the result that the spring pre-tensioning is increased 4 Check EVAP canister purge valve ♦ Disconnect hose from EVAP canister purge valve to intake system at EVAP canister purge valve ♦ Remove connector of EVAP canister purge valve ♦ Connect special tool 9160/1 to EVAP canister purge valve ♦ Generate vacuum of approx. 0.7 bar The vacuum must not fall below 0 bar after 10 minutes 5 Check fuel injectors for leaks Work instruction Display OK If not OK DME 7.8 2469 P1128 0-116 page 3 DME 7.8 p1128 0 Printed in Germany – 4, 2002 ♦ PCV valve leaks ♦ Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged Affected terminals - Diagnosis/Troubleshooting ♦ Air leaks ahead of the oxygen sensors can lead to a fault in adaptation Check exhaust system for leaks. ♦ Contrary adaptation values in connection with misfiring point to incorrectly adjusted control timescheck control times and adjust if necessary. ♦ If the fuel tank reserve light is switched on, no fault is entered. Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Close cap of oil filler neck properly or replace the seal 2 Check signal from MAF sensor. ♦ Connect special tool 9637. ♦ Measure voltage at pin III/23 and ground ♦ Switch on the ignition. 0.9 to 1.1 V. Replace MAF sensor ♦ Start the engine. Approx. 1,4 V 3 Check exhaust system for leaks 4 Check for air leaks in intake air system 5 Check PCV valve for leaks 6 Check fuel pressure 7 Check volume supply of fuel pump 8 Fuel injectors fouled ♦ If preceding Check Points were negative, the fuel injectors may be fouled ♦ Clean fuel injectors (ultrasonic cleaning device) or replace them Note!
  11. Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 195 90 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FR 6LDU) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts, 10 mm, 13 mm sockets, 5 or 6 mm hex socket 5/8" spark plug socket 3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint Medium phillips screwdriver #25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers Torque wrench Spark Plug Removal Prep 1. Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels. 2. Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws. 3. Remove bumperettes: remove access plug, loosen size 40 torx from below 2 turns, pivots upward 4. Remove rear only wheel well liner: several torx and 2 plastic 10mm nuts (easy to strip when reinstalling) 5. Remove rear bumper cover: 4 phillips on top, 2 phillips on bottom, 4 torx on bottom, 2 torx in the wheel well. Its easy to scratch when removed. Slide off with a helper so you don't scratch the paint. Unplug the wires. 6. Remove center rear heat shield: 3 10 mm bolts, 2 screws. Using compressed air, if available, thoroughly blow all the dirt and debris off the intercoolers, engine, wheel well, brakes, etc. Remove the intercooler with brackets 7. Disconnect the big hoses where they plug into the intercooler. Pull/pry with a screwdriver, the center of the hose retaining wire clips back far enough to release the hoses. Pull/wiggle the hoses out of the intercooler. It may be easier to remove the upper 2 hoses completely. Mark the inner and outer ends of the upper hoses or note where the arrows are to aid reassembly. Inspect the hose O-rings. The manual says to replace the O-rings, but I don't know if that's really necessary. 8. On each side remove 5 13 mm nuts/bolts holding on the intercooler brackets. Remove bottom 2 sheetmetal nuts attaching the bottom of the side heat shields. Pull the heat shield off the studs. Slide the intercooler assembly forward about an inch then remove it. 9. Bend the shields upward. Leave top heatshield attachment nuts on. YOU CAN NOW SEE THE TOP OF THE HEADS! Remove the coils 10. Remove the heat shield attached to the head. Unclip the O2 sensor wires from it and let the shield slide down out of the way. 11. Driver side remove the waste gate vac hose and the pressure sensor(?) hose next to it. 12. Remove all the coil retaining allen head bolts. 13. Unclip all 6 coil wires. (I couldn't get the coils back on with the wires attached) 14. Remove the coils, it may be a little difficult to maneuver them out. 15. Using long extensions remove the spark plugs. Visually inspect the new plugs prior to installation. Gap is about .8 mm (.032"), NOT 1.6 mm as the shop manual states. I wouldn't try to adjust them if the gap looks reasonably close. Mine were about .025 -.032". I had a new damaged plug that had the side electrode bent. Visually inspect the coils. Pull off the rubber boots and look for any cracks or carbon tracking. Try to keep the rubber boots very clean to avoid carbon tracking. Put a small amount of anti-seize on the inner 1/2 of the spark plug threads. You don't want any grease or fingerprints on the ceramic, rubber boots, or in the spark plug recess in the head. Spark Plug Installation Install the plugs 1. Install the plugs. They should easily screw in by hand. Torque to 22 ftlb. (29.8 Nm) 2. Put the coils in place. Attach the coil wires prior to installing the coil bolts. Make sure the wires 'click' into the coils before you pull the little rubber boots down. Space is limited. Install the coil bolts with a SMALL amount of anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm) 3. Install the heat shield to the head with a little anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm) You may need to use a u-joint socket on 1 of the bolts. Clip the O2 sensor wires and vac hoses back on to the heat shields. Reinstall the 2 vac hoses on the driver side. Check for any loose/disconnected wires or vacuum hoses. 4. Bend the side heat shields back down. Intercooler install 5. Check that the intercooler hose retaining wire clips are fully in position at the bottom of their grooves. Blow out the intercooler inside and out with compressed air. Make sure the intercooler hose inlet and outlet sealing surfaces are clean and smooth. 6. Carefully reposition the intercooler assembly on the car. Be careful not to scratch the paint. Push it rearward and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) Tighten the side heat shield sheet metal nuts. Install the intercooler hoses. The hose ends should audibly click into place. 7. Reinstall the center rear heat shield. 8. With a helper reinstall the bumper cover. Remember to reconnect the wire. Install the screws loosely. Before you tighten it down position the wheel well liner and loosely install it's screws. Push the bumper cover and wheel well liner into position and tighten. (It was difficult to get the wheel well liner into position with the bumper cover fully tightened.) Do not overtighten the plastic nuts and strip the threads. 9. Reinstall the bumperettes. Engage the top groove and pivot them down, retighten the bolt. 10. Reinstall the taillight assembly. 11. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). It took me about 5 hours the first time, about 3 1/2 the second time.
  12. Spark Plug Change Instructions Note: Part numbers sometimes change without notice. Always double check with your supplier that you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 195 90 Spark Plugs (Beru 14FR 6LDU) Tools you will need: Jack 19 mm socket for wheel bolts, 10 mm, 13 mm sockets, 5 or 6 mm hex socket 5/8" spark plug socket 3/8" ratchet and 12" and 6" extension, u-joint Medium phillips screwdriver #25, 27, 40 torx socket drivers Torque wrench Spark Plug Removal Prep 1. Jack up car, put stand Author ebaker Category TT/GT2 (996) - Maintenance Submitted 11/16/2005 10:36 AM
  13. Thanks Loren. The mechanic at the dealer said any API GL-5 rated hypoid gear oil in 75W-90 weight would be fine in the front differential. I am planning on using Red Line 75W-90 API GL-5 + Hypoid Gear Oil. I'm guessing this is a good gear oil...any comments? I think GL5 will cause problems in the rear transaxle. It's too slippery. The levels of antifriction/antiwear additives are too high. This keeps the syncros from working properly. Redline makes GL4 oils in regular and light weight I believe.
  14. Seems like I remember reading that it's on the back of the radio.
  15. Many auto parts stores carry it. It's on Ebay. It's used in VW, Audi, Jaguars, and others. I got a can at Discount Auto Parts. Several local foreign car oriented auto parts stores also carry it.
  16. Mine seemed to do well with about 33/37
  17. It may be the o ring that goes on the end of the tube that goes thru the center of the filter element.
  18. From the shop manual. I have not done this (yet). You should probably use tubing wrenches on the oil lines. 1)remove rear bumper cover 2)remove center heat shield and intercooler assembly and side heat shield(s) 3)undo upper oil pipe at the uppermost connection while counterholding the larger connection below with an "open ring wrench" (tubing wrench) 4)remove upper turbo support nut/bolt 5)pull vac line 6)undo 2 oil pipes on oil container 7)pull pressure pipe from turbo (hose clamp) 8)undo 4 turbo flange to cat nuts 9)undo header from head 10)remove turbo with header Install (use new seals/metal gaskets) 1)fit turbo to header 2install header to head, torque in an inner to outer pattern to 18 ft lbs then to 25 ft lbs 3)tighten 4 flange to cat nuts 4)tighten 2 oil tank lines 22 ft lb 5)attach upper turbo support then attach upper oil line 15 ft lb 6)install side heat shields 7)install pressure pipe with hose clamp 8)install intercooler 17 ft lb 9)tighten sheetmetal nuts on side heat shields 10)install intercooler hoses , "snap" into place 11)carry out "oil level and tightness test" It might be a good idea to crank the car with the fuel pump relay pulled to oil the turbos before you start the engine.
  19. Many have said that Fabspeed is too loud.
  20. The spoiler can be easily stolen if it's in the up position.
  21. When I changed the plugs on my 01 turbo I noticed several small surface cracks (maybe 1mm deep) on all the coils, particularly on the round part covered by the rubber boot. I don't think any cracks were visible on the external part of the coils. No carbon tracks. The car runs fine, including in heavy rain. When I had the car apart I called the dealer tech and he seemed to think it was a big problem. When I took the car in for warranty work they replaced the MAF and fuel pump and cured the full load high speed miss it was having. I don't think they pulled a coil and actually looked at the cracks. The tech said he checked the coils and they were OK. I'm 99% sure he did not pull a coil for inspection. I was not mentioned on the final work order. Is this anything to worry about? My warranty expires in June. Should I ask to talk to the regional PCNA rep? There were also a couple of other issues with the car the dealer could not replicate that were never addressed. I noticed on the Boxter forum that cracked coils were found as a fault on a PPI.link
  22. I believe G05 antifreeze is similar to the Porsche/Audi G12. A 996 turbo holds 6 gallons so a change with the official porsche coolant will be expensive.
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