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BAD124

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About BAD124

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  • From
    Albany, NY
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    88 Mercedes 300E
    2003 Porsche C4S
    2009 Triumph Speed Triple
  1. You will get as many opinions on oil as members on here ;) . Personally I use Liqui-Moly Syn 5w-40 at 5000 mile intervals. Changed over from Mobile 1 0w-40 and have noticed a decrease in the amount I need to add between changes See full list here - http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Porsche-Approved_Oils.html
  2. I believe that 99-2001 996 and Boxster headlights are compatible assuming that both cars are halogen or HID
  3. Stock filter housing ? Could be a hair line crack in the plastic
  4. The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time. I agree it is pricey, but personally I think the benefits of thorough inspection + the additional magnet are worth it. Cleaning can be done in the 5-10 mins it takes to let the oil fully drain. And if your cutting open a spin on filter, that will take time as well as you have to dissect the paper element. The K&P only uses 1 o-ring which is located in the same spot as a normal spin on filter (where it meets the adapter) so it would only leak if one failed to tighten properly. Also acts as a mini heat sink (though probably not a dramatic effect)
  5. Would it make sense to get a replacement OEM plastic housing if the original is still in use after many years? I'd guess the bypass valve may get sticky with age/debris. Or perhaps use shop air to "back blow" the valve and dislodge any contaminants. Until the weather improves etc. and I can perform a IMS bearing upgrade this summer, I'm just checking the paper filter at short intervals (i.e. every 600 miles). I think its actually a spring that looses tension over time and heat cycles. You could replace the housing, but it will wear out eventually. Go the full filtration route as JFP suggested, as long as you stay away from extended intervals (10,000 miles as the filter element will be smaller surface area)
  6. This is a great and simple fix to a serious concern. Thanks for posting :cheers:
  7. If you want to take it one step further, I've installed a SS mesh filter and like it - http://www.kandpengineering.com/S16.shtml Inspection is part of the cleaning process so its impossible to miss anything and you'll never have to buy another filter. Also contains an imbedded magnet in the element for extra capturing of loose metal
  8. PS fluid is a lubricant and does have a service life. I dont know of a receommended interval, but its cheap insurance. I did mine around 90K and it was noteably thinner than the fresh fluid. The lines are pretty easy to get to behind the front tire so its not a bad DIY job
  9. You have the right idea as you plan on taking care of the biggest concern right off (IMS/RMS). Do the PPI, because if it passes you wont remember how much it costs once your driving the car. If you dont get it done and something goes south , you will know exactly how much it cost
  10. For nuts/bolts/fastners I have found motorcycle chain lube to be very effective. It goes on thin to penetrate and thickens up to leave a film. It will attract dirt initially but it gives any exposed threads a good layer of protection from the elements. Since I've been using it I've yet to encounter any I cant get loose. It take just a quick spirt to cover the bolts. 1 can will last years http://www.amazon.com/PJ1-Blue-Label-Chain-18oz/dp/B000WJX8XU
  11. Just reached my milestone =) Merry Christmas all :thumbup:
  12. Mine does the same thing after sitting for a few days. Goes away after a mile or so of driving. Less frequent since switching from 0-40 to 5-40
  13. Recommended. I got it as I didnt like the idea of a plastic housing getting fatigued over time. Plus I feel its location makes it vulnerable to road debris. Its a very simple install and completely reversable for any reason. The filter will be smaller than stock however, so I would assume the original 30,000 mile interval is too much for the limited amount of filtering media. I believe LN recommends 5K I actually went 1 step further and added a SS mesh filter, but thats a whole 'nother topic :rolleyes: Brett
  14. Mijostyn - interesting theory. Since I have been adding much less oil between changes with the 5W40, my though was that it was volitizing less and therefore creating less "vapor" in the crankcase and in turn, oil filler tube. I can see how cold weather would exacerbate the condition, but I was getting the filler tube buildup even in warmer weather (70-80 deg F) Just for comparision I went from M1 0W40 to Liqui-Moly 5W40, both full syn. Consideing 5W50 for next summer
  15. Ok. I had the same issue with you, until switching to 5W-40. After that it has been mostly non existant. Also, I have had less oil consumption which I suspect may be related
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