BAD124

You will get as many opinions on oil as members on here ;) . Personally I use Liqui-Moly Syn 5w-40 at 5000 mile intervals. Changed over from Mobile 1 0w-40 and have noticed a decrease in the amount I need to add between changes

See full list here - http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Porsche-Approved_Oils.html

I believe that 99-2001 996 and Boxster headlights are compatible assuming that both cars are halogen or HID

Stock filter housing ? Could be a hair line crack in the plastic

Same question. Also, what's the point of the bypass valve? I'm guessing to prevent oil starvation under high loads. Is it safe to eliminate this?

The stainless filter that never has to be replaced seems cool. Why don't these come with the car?

The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time.

I agree it is pricey, but personally I think the benefits of thorough inspection + the additional magnet are worth it. Cleaning can be done in the 5-10 mins it takes to let the oil fully drain. And if your cutting open a spin on filter, that will take time as well as you have to dissect the paper element.

The K&P only uses 1 o-ring which is located in the same spot as a normal spin on filter (where it meets the adapter) so it would only leak if one failed to tighten properly. Also acts as a mini heat sink (though probably not a dramatic effect)

One of the biggest, and perhaps least recognized problems with the OEM cartridge style filter set up in the by-pass valve in the bottom of the plastic housing. It is not at all unusual to find them partially or completely open, which means anywhere from some to nearly all the oil is going around the filter media. Not a good thing.

Would it make sense to get a replacement OEM plastic housing if the original is still in use after many years? I'd guess the bypass valve may get sticky with age/debris. Or perhaps use shop air to "back blow" the valve and dislodge any contaminants.

Until the weather improves etc. and I can perform a IMS bearing upgrade this summer, I'm just checking the paper filter at short intervals (i.e. every 600 miles).

I think its actually a spring that looses tension over time and heat cycles. You could replace the housing, but it will wear out eventually. Go the full filtration route as JFP suggested, as long as you stay away from extended intervals (10,000 miles as the filter element will be smaller surface area)

This is a great and simple fix to a serious concern. Thanks for posting :cheers:

If you want to take it one step further, I've installed a SS mesh filter and like it - http://www.kandpengineering.com/S16.shtml

Inspection is part of the cleaning process so its impossible to miss anything and you'll never have to buy another filter. Also contains an imbedded magnet in the element for extra capturing of loose metal

PS fluid is a lubricant and does have a service life. I dont know of a receommended interval, but its cheap insurance. I did mine around 90K and it was noteably thinner than the fresh fluid.

The lines are pretty easy to get to behind the front tire so its not a bad DIY job

You have the right idea as you plan on taking care of the biggest concern right off (IMS/RMS).

Do the PPI, because if it passes you wont remember how much it costs once your driving the car. If you dont get it done and something goes south , you will know exactly how much it cost

For nuts/bolts/fastners I have found motorcycle chain lube to be very effective. It goes on thin to penetrate and thickens up to leave a film. It will attract dirt initially but it gives any exposed threads a good layer of protection from the elements. Since I've been using it I've yet to encounter any I cant get loose. It take just a quick spirt to cover the bolts. 1 can will last years

http://www.amazon.com/PJ1-Blue-Label-Chain-18oz/dp/B000WJX8XU

Just reached my milestone =)

Merry Christmas all :thumbup:

Mine does the same thing after sitting for a few days. Goes away after a mile or so of driving.

Less frequent since switching from 0-40 to 5-40

Recommended. I got it as I didnt like the idea of a plastic housing getting fatigued over time. Plus I feel its location makes it vulnerable to road debris.

Its a very simple install and completely reversable for any reason.

The filter will be smaller than stock however, so I would assume the original 30,000 mile interval is too much for the limited amount of filtering media. I believe LN recommends 5K

I actually went 1 step further and added a SS mesh filter, but thats a whole 'nother topic :rolleyes:

Brett

Mijostyn - interesting theory. Since I have been adding much less oil between changes with the 5W40, my though was that it was volitizing less and therefore creating less "vapor" in the crankcase and in turn, oil filler tube.

I can see how cold weather would exacerbate the condition, but I was getting the filler tube buildup even in warmer weather (70-80 deg F)

Just for comparision I went from M1 0W40 to Liqui-Moly 5W40, both full syn.

Consideing 5W50 for next summer

Ok. I had the same issue with you, until switching to 5W-40. After that it has been mostly non existant.

Also, I have had less oil consumption which I suspect may be related

Just a guess, are you using M1 0W-40?

I had the same initial concern. Switching to 5W-40 has reduced consumption back to more "normal" levels

This is a challenge. First listen sounds hollow, so thoughts were PSE exhaust flaps, or broken cats. It sounds "tinny" like something on thin metal

Have you tried with PSE open and closed just to eliminate that possibility ? I notice a rattle on mine when the PSE is open, but not when closed which I assume is the valves being loose then under tension.

But you said its only when clutch is engaged which points to drive train...I'll give it another try later on

Confirmed: Stock HID bulb is D2s

^ absolutely flatbed only. With one 1 axle rotating, the speed difference would be 100% and the viscous clutch would burn out in short order.

Gob

There are probably a dozen kits, bearings, etc out there to chose from. It isn't just two.

There aren't comparble statistics in sample sizes that would be meaningful, would that there were. No one to take these things and run 100 samples 100k miles and report on the success or failure. And remember, Porsche with their test mules didn't know about the problems till after there were thousands in the wild so small sample tests over limited time aren't terribly confidence building. Hey the Porsche engineers were confident three times and wrong three times.

And to make matters worse, in the case of a choice between the DOF or a ceramic bearing, it isn't either/or, it could be both.

What is your installer familiar with? How many have they done of any?

They were not so wrong with the initial double-row (996-1) and then decided to make it worse or very wrong with the single row (996-2).

Capitalizing on both of these experiences; ie, being so-so wrong (D-Row) and then very wrong (S-Row), they then decided to be not so wrong with the larger S-Row (05 to 08 997); ie, not quite there, until 09 when they got rid of the IMS.

It is what made the Porsche engineers go to a S-Row from a D-Row in 2001 that really leaves me perplexed!? What were they thinking ...?

Hence so far, dumb and happy with a D-Row!

The switch to a single row was a result of moving to Variocam +. This necessitated a slightly longer IM shaft, hence the smaller bearing.

I'm afraid that is not correct; many 2000 and 2001 cars came from the factory with single row bearings, and they are all VarioCam, not VarioCam+ cars.......................

Hmmm. I know I got that info from a reputable site too (part manuf, not forum). I'll see if I can locate it again. Logically it seemed to make sense, more so than Porsche trying to solve the failed bearing issue by halving the load tolerance.

Gob

There are probably a dozen kits, bearings, etc out there to chose from. It isn't just two.

There aren't comparble statistics in sample sizes that would be meaningful, would that there were. No one to take these things and run 100 samples 100k miles and report on the success or failure. And remember, Porsche with their test mules didn't know about the problems till after there were thousands in the wild so small sample tests over limited time aren't terribly confidence building. Hey the Porsche engineers were confident three times and wrong three times.

And to make matters worse, in the case of a choice between the DOF or a ceramic bearing, it isn't either/or, it could be both.

What is your installer familiar with? How many have they done of any?

They were not so wrong with the initial double-row (996-1) and then decided to make it worse or very wrong with the single row (996-2).

Capitalizing on both of these experiences; ie, being so-so wrong (D-Row) and then very wrong (S-Row), they then decided to be not so wrong with the larger S-Row (05 to 08 997); ie, not quite there, until 09 when they got rid of the IMS.

It is what made the Porsche engineers go to a S-Row from a D-Row in 2001 that really leaves me perplexed!? What were they thinking ...?

Hence so far, dumb and happy with a D-Row!

The switch to a single row was a result of moving to Variocam +. This necessitated a slightly longer IM shaft, hence the smaller bearing.

3000K is yellow, like you would find in a fog light.

OEM HID's are 4300K which is the whitest color range. 6000K will start to look blue and 12000K is purple.

The further away from 4300K you get, output decreases.

There is a great article on DSL that covers this - http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/superwhite/superwhite.html

Why not upgrade to HID though? Quality bulbs will cost almost as much as a full conversion anyways:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=3893

I am in the same situation. From the pics I found online of replacement bulbs they look to be D2s. If I cant confirm I will pull mine out and verify

I think you answered your own question..if you only ever see a dusting at most, all seasons and proper driving should be enough. A Blizzak would certainly work, but sounds like over kill in your situation.

These might be a good option - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeContact+DWS

Given the presence of a winter vehicle for winter driving, I would prefer all-seasons. But there's a saying that all-season tires are really no season tires, which has a lot of validity should someone own only a single vehicle. Obviously, I love driving my 996 significantly more than my Xterra, so I like to drive it as much as safely possible. While I have gotten along fine recently in Nevada with all-seasons and a second 4WD vehicle, my main concern is really the tires losing grip in low temperature situations. The obvious solution would be to avoid any spirited driving, but if I could do that, I probably would have bought one of those Honda Corollas people rave about.

Regarding those Continental tires I actually run Continental tires on both of my streetbikes. While they lack the grip of the Dunlop and Pirellis they replaced, they more than exceeded the grip necessary for any reasonable riding on public streets, although they aren't confidence inspiring in the wet. Serviceable, even in one surprise flash flood level rain, but not confidence inspiring. I have no experience with them on cars, though. They seem rather expensive for what they are. Have you tried a pair? doodon2whls's comment in http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/who-is-the-best-tire-manufacturer-1170466144 honestly has me leaning towards Michelins, but I honestly suspect that having a rear-wheel drive, rear-weight oriented car slightly skews some of the street tire performance metrics and testing...

I dont know that you can compare sreetbike tires to car tires. Even if you could we are debating winter/AS here so motorcyle tires dont really fit.

If a tire is rated for being an all season then it has to stay pilable down to freezing temps, so the DWS should be fine for that. My impression was that you wanted to maintain at least some modicum of dry weather handling, so the A/S is going to be best for that. If you want that extra margin of safety then a full snow is best.