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stronbl

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Posts posted by stronbl


  1. I agree with the antenna as the prime suspect.  I have a 2010 997 with XM radio and every since I have owned it (I bought it new) the XM reception was not as good as in our other cars.  I thought is was the shape of the car - it's a cab so the antenna is on the rear next to the spoiler.  Then I thought is was the radio receiver Porsche uses.  But we got a Cayenne and the XM reception was excellent.  Then one day as I was prepping the car for a drive, somehow I built up a static charge and accidentally touch the antenna.  Big shock and crackle and the XM would not work.  I took it to the dealer and they agreed the antenna was bad, fortunately still under warranty.  Upon replacement of the antenna my XM reception was very much improved, in fact, areas where it used to cut out the signal stays strong and is uninterrupted. 

     

    Sorry for the long explanation, but I would replace the antenna.  It's a simple repair and the cover pops off so no need for a re-paint.  Good luck. 


  2. Update and remedy:
     
    Ok, my CD is fixed and hopefully leak free.  As noted above this was indeed an engine and transmission out job, including air suspension in the front.  We replaced the bell housing cover.  The explanation to PAG was the cover was slightly warped and was not providing a proper seal.  Although the locktite sealant was present after removal of the cover, there was one particular area where it appeared to be a "breach" in the sealant and was the area of the leak.  This is a complicated and time consuming job, but very doable for properly trained service department.  Of course the bell housing cover was not available in the US so one had to come from Germany.  Attached photos shows the area of leak (yellow circle) and engine timing chains with bell housing cover removed. 
     
    Once the CD was put back together, I cannot tell any difference in the vehicle - engine, transmission, etc.  Also I want to says thanks to Gunter and his team at Fremont Porsche for a great job and working with me through this involved process.

     

    post-66761-0-80563000-1412791930_thumb.jpost-66761-0-66364600-1412791954_thumb.j

    • Upvote 1

  3. This is the exact same scenario I went through, language too.  My shop needed to have air tight documentation that it was actually a leak and not a seep.  I had them clean everything up and I drove another 100+ miles and brought it back in.  Fluid appears again but not enough to drip onto the under body panels.  So we added dye and I drove for 800+ miles.  This time we had leaks onto to body panels and they agreed it was an issue.  Given that the remedy is dropping the engine, I can see why they want to have air tight proof there is a leak and not a seep, should PCNA question the expense. 

     

    I bet if you have them clean it up, and drive a while, eventually you too will have a leak.  May take a few 1000 miles but eventually it will qualify as a leak - the good news is, if it is like mine, the CD is still fully drivable and the amount of fluid that evetually leaks is minimal, a few ounces in total.  Just watch your oil level just in case.   When I get the work done in mid August I'll report back what was fixed and/or replaced.  I suspect there are some bad seals or gaskets and maybe some bolts have backed out but I'll know for sure in about a month. 


  4. I dropped my off today (and got to see a CGT up close and personal too!). I'll update with anything I get back from my SA/Tech.

    I checked mine over as well as I could and there was no sign of it coming from above that I could find including reaching up around it and wiping with a shop towel. My best guess is the seal between the transmission and engine. Out of curiosity, what is your build month? Mine is a 10/2012 build.

    As far as the oil level, mine hasn't burned any oil over the 3 OCIs.

     

    My build was completed on 10/1/2012 !!!  Too funny.  Dealer will pull the engine mid August when I have time to leave it with them.  They'll check the dye markings and start replacing seals, gaskets, and whatever else they deem necessary to remedy the leak.  Estimated a full week's worth of work.  Covered by warranty. 


  5. Gnat, sorry to hear you have a similar or same issue as I am having, albeit less volume of fluid. 

     

    My dealer/service manager and I agreed to a process to try and isolate this issue.  We all agree there is a leak or a seep (I tend to think it is a leak but I suppose that is a definition) and they definitely want to fix it, it's just we are not sure of the cause/source.  In any event he added some tracer and I'm to drive at least 400 miles and then we'll re-check the leak/seep area.  Since this is about the lowest point, fluid will collect there even if it is not the actual leak spot.  With the tracer we are hopeful we will isolate the source and start a remedy.  I'm at 700 miles since the tracer so I need to call and bring it in so we can take a look and see if there is more to learn.  I'll try to get in this week and report back. 

     

    On a positive note, I've not had to add any oil since the last change (2600 miles ago) and the transmission and differentials all seem to be working fine.  Nothing out of the normal.  I wonder if this could be a seeping issue associated with the diesel motor and not a precursor of a bigger problem, he says optimistically ....


  6. How about key #2?  Does it have same behavior as key #1 with the three buttons?  I get the confirmation beep each time, all three buttons and each key. 

     

    If key #2 has the same problem, maybe there is a bad fuse for the comfort settings.  If you have access to a Durametric you could try to see if there are any codes or a reset.  Outside this it may be a dealer trip is warranted. 


  7. A short update for anyone following this thread. After a week of driving the CD, I pulled the engine protection covers off and examined the leak area again. There is still a leak but it is small. I've attached another picture. There was no fluid on the under body panel after the week. My driving during the week was a few trips around town and daily commute to/from work. City streets and short highway trips. No towing loads or heavy cargo.

    Upon examination of the leak area, I attempted to trace back to the leaking source. As far as I could tell, it appears the leak source is the interface at the bell housing. On the attached picture I highlighted this area with a yellow box. I could see fluid in the gap shown by the yellow box up to the left most bolt. The droplet in the picture is formed at that location due to it being the lowest point of the bell housing. So my original thought being a transmission leak seems to be correct. If I had to guess at this point I'd say it is either an internal seal gone bad or a failed gasket around the housing. Either way it would seem the transmission will need to be dropped to find the true culprit and remedy the leak. I'll be taking it to the dealer soon.

    Thanks for the comments and suggestions so far. If anyone else has experienced a leak like this, I'd most definitely like to hear about it. Hopefully you haven't and mine is simply an anomaly to the CD. It's been a great vehicle so far.

    post-66761-0-42207000-1402529642_thumb.j


  8. Has any one tried Cool Carbon pads??

    Yes, I have used the Street/Track pads, front and rear. Got them as a "test" replacement for OEM pads and track usage.

    Here are my conclusions: 2010 C4S is the vehicle pads were tested. I do all my own brake work since it is so easy on the 997-2.

    For track ---

    1. Much better than OEM, but you MUST bed them prior to track use. CC has a bedding procedure that I followed. Brake pedal has a firm but not hard feel. Solid may be a better description.
    2. they need to heat up to be properly effective (this is true for many other track oriented pads). You can drag the brake on a warm-up lap with your left foot or you can do some moderate brake applications during warm-up. You will notice immediately when the brakes are at a proper track temp due to the increased bite.
    3. They may squeal if you do not use anti-squeal backing shims or paste. I used Porsche OEM anti-squeal pads and they work ok but I still get some squeal on heavy braking corners.
    4. They are not too severe on the brake disks, but you will need to monitor the impact.
    5. Front pads lasted me 4 track events (Laguna Seca, Sonoma, Thunderhill, and Buttonwillow) before I had to replace them. Rear pads are still fine.
    6. Minimal brake dust, but not zero.

    For street -

    1. Prior to first track event, street use (after bedding) was fine. Very little brake dust and stopping was adequate even at cool pad temps. As pad temps increased, bite was excellent. No squeal (again, I used OEM anti-squeal pads).
    2. After initial track event, I found the pads to have a slight "glazed" feel when cold/cool. Braking is fine as long as you don't have to make an emergency stop. I tested an emergency stop and found I needed a lot more brake pedal force to make the stop. I then did some short stops to heat up the pads and once warmed up, they stopped great. Perhaps re-bedding them would fix this, but I was too lazy to do so since I could just heat them up from a few frequent stops.
    3. I think my track runs heated up the anti-squeal pads glue so the left front became unglued, and as a result I got a squeal from that pad only under a light stop. For example, as you release brake pedal pressure when you bring the car to its final stop at a traffic light or stop sign. A firmer pedal pressure eliminates the squeal. I was about to take the pad out and re-glue the anti-squeal but I waited too long and ended up changing front pads anyway.
    4. Brake dust is very minor, much less that OEM and of course less than at track. It is not zero dust, but very manageable to me. As a note, I also use the Armor All Wheel Protectant which also seems to help keep the brake dust to a minimum.

    I'm on my second set of front CC pads, same type Street/Track combo and will continue my evaluation. But so far I like them and their price point. They are very good on the track, lot's of braking/stopping confidence, firm but not hard pedal feel. The street usage is OEM level. Brake dust is minimum.

    Hope this helps. I may have left out some things so feel free to ask me if you have questions.


  9. It looks like the same problem I experienced earlier this year in my 2010 958 Diesel. My car was still under extended warranty and my local Porsche Centre told me they had seen this problem in several other 958s in the last couple of years. The leak I think was transmission fluid because I was told that when it was repaired, that the sump oil was not affected. The repair took about a week and was an 'engine out' job requiring new seals between block and transmission from Germany.

    Thanks for the info. I originally thought transmisson too but after discussion with the dealer wasn't so sure. I'll keep monitoring and then head back to the dealer probably next week if the leak is still there. Maybe I'll have something new to report.


  10. I checked the torque on the filter cover and it was good, couldn't see any oil leaks from that area. Oil level from previous oil change was at most 1/4 L down which I added, very minor. I'm beginning to wonder about some sort of gasket seal leak on the motor. I also just got back my oil analysis from Blackstone and they said it looked good but the viscosity was on the low side, but not an issue. Given the rest of their analysis they concluded everything seemed ok.

    The mystery contunes ...


  11. 2013 Cayenne diesel, 15,970 miles.

    Just completed oil change #3 (May 24th) and I noticed fluid has leak onto the transmission bell housing (no leaks previous two oil changes). At first I thought I might have a transmission or transfer leak, but the fluid is motor oil or gear oil as it is quite dark (almost black) and since the bottom of the bell housing is the low point it makes sense it would collect in that spot. There was a fair amount of fluid on the underbody engine guard, about 1/2 of a blue Scott's shop towel after clean-up. I also cleaned around the housing and electrical plug area and put everything back together.

    Since the CD is my daily driver I drove for the next week and checked underneath again (May 31st). More fluid, same color and character as the week before. The attached picture is from the may 31st inspection. You can see it is a slow leak, but a leak nonetheless.

    I took it to my Porsche service center and they confirmed fluid but since they had no maintenance record (I do my own simple service -- oil, brakes etc) they were not ready to make a warranty claim just yet. They too cleaned it up and we agreed I'd drive for another 2 weeks and check it again (with more pictures to document the issue). If fluid leak continues then I'll bring it back in and we'll try again for a remedy via warranty. I'll check it again this weekend and see how bad it is, and if I can trace the fluid upward to a possible source.

    While I wait, I have a couple questions for the forum:

    1) anyone else experience a fluid leak similar to this - probably motor oil - and if so, where or what was the source/cause?

    2) ideas as to what may be the cause - engine gaskets/seals gone bad, etc.

    Thanks. I appreciate any insights and/or suggestions.

    post-66761-0-74810000-1402008544_thumb.j


  12. I was doing some maintenance work and hooked up my Durametric and tested all modules. I got a fault in the PDK module I had not had or seen before.

    It was Durametric Fault Code: 50200, which the folks at Durametric said was described as U0418: CAN fault, brake.

    Anyone have more information or details about this? As an aside, the PDK seems to be just fine in all phases of operation, so I am wondering if this is a non-event.

    Thanks.


  13. I need to remove the rear bumper cover on my 2013 Cayenne Diesel and before I get started I thought I'd check and see if:

    (1) anyone has done this before and has any tips/tricks to make it easier, and

    (2) any PIWIS II shop manual instructions on how to do so.

    Thanks ... I'll post a DIY once completed (assuming success!).


  14. RSGTS - myself and a few others with 997.2's have had some squeaks with the interior. Mine was in the instrument cluster area. They are hard to isolate as I originally thought it was the chrono dial on top of the dash.

    Here's what I did to isolate it and fix it. Maybe it will help you but be careful as it involves isolating the squeak sound while driving.

    While the car is squeaking stick your fingers into the gap area between the dash and the dials. You may have to test a few spots to find the main source or sources of the squeak. You may also have to push fairly hard so you make enough separation between the dash and the dials. If this is the source of your squeaks, it will eventually stop as you find the correct spot. Once identified, I used some soft black rubber weatherstripping strips (the thin kind with peal off sticky tape on the back) and pushed them well back - hidden from view - so they cushioned the dash and the dial(s). Road tested it again and no squeaks. Been quiet for the last 2 years with this method. Good luck.


  15. Great info. Can you provide a bit more details and or pics? For example, on the drain plug, did you have to remove much under carriage material or is it easily accessible? Also what size hex bit (assume it is a hex bit) for the drain plug and associated tightening torque. Last question, how easy is it to access the oil filter - did you have to contort yourself much? Sorry for these basic questions but I really appreciate your posting as I plan on a DIY too (in about 2500 miles ~ couple months) when the oil quality sensor says to change.


  16. Slight variation on the above request (great info and feedback by the way) ... is it possible to simply "inspect" the PDK for proper levels and top off as necessary (I don't believe I need gear oil change service)? I suppose a good tech (indy or dealer) could handle it. But I track my car and want to ensure the PDK is ready and willing before the up coming track season and would like to DIY if possible. Any comments?

    Thanks.

    PS - the car is a 2010 997.2 C4S


  17. We had some cold Norcal weather last week, low 30s and high 20's in the morning. My CD lives outside so I had to wait a few seconds (2-4 maybe) but started up just fine. I have not had to remove the key and re-try the procedure yet. My typical startup procedure is probably the same as most, I insert the key, turn it to ON, wait for the glow plug icon to go out (2-4 sec) and then turn the key to START. On warmer mornings/days, I can turn to START immediately.

    By the way, my glow plug icon always disappears after a few seconds.


  18. I had a similar(???) problem on my new 2013 CD. It would be in Battery Protection mode / transit. I could clear it manually with the "backup" button on the steering wheel. When I took it to the Porsche dealer and asked them to check it out as the battery was new, they discovered a switch or circuit (sorry, I'm not 100% sure which is was) under the drivers seat that had been set such that tranit mode and battery protection was always on. After they corrected it, they did a vehicle handover to be sure all was ok. That seemed to fix my situation.

    In your friend's case, could he have a bad or weak battery and/or some issue with the wiring under the drivers seat?


  19. All - I posted a similar question in the Cayenne Gen 1 forum, but wanted to post it here too in case someone may have an idea or two to help.

    I have a 2013 Cayenne diesel with factory installed tow package. I added the 7-way plug and Prodigy P3 controller w/ harness. When I connect the brake controller and test it (internal Prodigy tests), I see a 14v+ for the power, but I see 0 volts for brakes and lights. I did not have a trailer hooked up at the time of the tests, so perhaps that is the problem. Or is there something else I need to do? For example, even though it is a factory install of the tow package, is there still a step the dealer needs to do to activate the Porsche electrical trailer controller system?

    Thanks for any thoughts.


  20. Seabass - thanks for the great write-up and pictures. It was really helpful.

    All - I have a 2013 Cayenne diesel with factory tow package. I just followed the above instructions and built a harness for my Prodigy P3 brake controller. After plugging in the controller to my new harness, I get 14v+ across the power when testing the P3 internal settings. But I don't get any voltage for the brakes or lights, according to the controller. These tests were done without a trailer hooked up so that may be the issue.

    Just in case, am I missing something anyone may suggest checking? Do I need to have the Porsche dealer do anything to "recognize" the hitch and wiring, again it was a factory install item?

    Thanks.


  21. I just test drove and order a new 2013 Cayenne diesel. The rear seats room seemed to be pretty good. I know this is a subjective comment. I'm 6' 2" and had no issues when I sat in the back, although it was just a quick test. Also the rear seats have some adjustablility (a new feature??) with front and back slides as well as backrest tilt.

    But as noted above Panamera vs. Cayenne are quite different in ride, performance, and duties.

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