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Posts posted by PKN

  1. In this case, and for a nice change, the problem pipe was where the upper hose attached to what looks like a plastic valve and very easy to get to. The other end went to the pump. I replaced the section with pressure hose (power steering). The light went out immediately on starting. I cancelled all error codes and took a 5 mile journey without error codes to show for it so fingers crossed!


  2. Many thanks. I am sure this is where the problem is - I have had to repair this area one time before when I was changing out my air filters, I just didnt realize it was the brake booster pump. It also makes sense because I recently had to replace my coolant tank and probably cracked it again when I did so. There has to be a better more durable material for these pipes - maybe silicon?


  3. Thanks for the quick response. The strange thing is that I can see no driveability issues and my mileage is about 18 on a weekly 85 mile commute. Just before it started though, I had a wierd hesitation on acceleration from start which went away within a few miles. I sawe another post online with the same two "bank" codes that turned out to be the "T" connector under the air intake. I will take a look as soon as things cool down here a tad!


  4. What year are you looking for? I am about to sell my 2006 twin turbo and am in central Florida. I have replaced ALL of the things to look out for - Coil packs, Cardan shaft (prior to my purchase), the coolant pipes under the inlet manifold, "T pipes behind the motor, coolant reservoir, added a hands free system with iPod input. These cars are incredibly quick in stock form but can be rechipped and take more boost pressure.

    My car has most if not all of the available upgrades available when new. PM for more info if you are interested,


  5. .,...in every sense of the word. My hands look and feel like they went through a mincer. I did learn that it is unnecessary to remove the fuel rail, that Lowes does stock a brass T piece to replace the one that doesnt break and that they dont stock one to replace the one that does.

    Fortunately I had the Porsche part and God willing I wont have the car when it goes again.

    I had two real problems. One was the lowest connection which would not come off the steel pipe it was connected to. I had to use a craft knife to cut most of the rubber off before I could persuade it to come off. The giant screwdriver from underneath the car was not helpful as the cat was in the way.

    The second problem was worse. The plastic tube with the push on connector at the back of the manifold snapped off in my attempts to remove it. I remember this was sticky last time when I replaced the main coolant pipes. Plastic epoxy failed miserably to repair it, so I drilled the hole out and tapped it for a brass screw in nozzle. Much easier to push on a piece of rubber pressure tubing and it will never break again.

    When I replaced the lowest part of the bottom T, I used a stainless screw clamp and tightened it with a socket. It will be much easier to remove than the space saver clamp which seemed to have bonded itself into the rubber. The remote clamp tool worked OK but just could not open the clamp wide enough to remove.

    The upper T in brass, I also clamped with stainless screw clamps and while I was there, I used them on the vaccuum T at the back of the motor which I had previously replaced in brass.

    To make my life easier, in addition to removing the manifold, I removed the drivers side air pump bracket and the plastic cable/tubing tray, using a piece of hairy string to hold all of the wiring and tubing out of my way.

    I ran out of daylight before I could tighten down the manifold and replace the air sensor and Y piece but an hour tommorrow should see me done. Hopefully after replacing the water pump, coolant pipes, coolant reservoir and T pipes, my cooiing system should be as good as (much better than) new. Incidentally, I decided to use a Walmart coolant that claims to be Porsche compatible. At less than $10/gallon it saved me $80 over the Porsche stuff. I had flushed the system thoroughly with clean water beforehand.

    I hope this experience helps others in addition to the other notes posted on this board,


  6. I have to say that I am about done with this car. I have replaced the main coolant pipes, I have replaced the water pump and the coolant reservoir and yesterday it dumped all of my coolant AGAIN, It is running fast from somewhere on the drivers side ner but not at the rear of the car. I can feel at least one of the T pipes and it is dry so what do I look at next? Unfortunately, I cannot find the source of this fast leak with a flashlight, mirror or even a borescope. Is my car likely to be fitted with an extra electric pump and will removing the wheel arch liner help me locate the problem?

    All assistance greatfully received - I am at least 50 miles from a Porsche dealership......


  7. OK - yes the thing in the diagram is in fact the oil filter. If they changed the coolant pipes and water pump, the main thing to worry about is the coolant reservoir. If it is leaking there should be evidence on the inner fender. When my water pump went, it dripped from behind the oil sump which makes it sound as though the water pump is the offender again. One thing is for sure, the temp got way too high. I will also say that after I changed the water pump, it took a few days and a couple of fast runs to kick the turbos in to burp the air out. It easily took another gallon of coolant after the first filling. Maybe the garage did not get all of the air out. Check what is leaking to make sure it is the sticky porsche coolant. If it is clear, it could just be condensate from the AC. Good luck


  8. I was wrong. The engine got up to speed and the leak started again. Turned out to be the water pump. My trusty Harbor Freight borescope showed it up nicely. A quick trip to my friendly dealer for the new pump with gasket and $200 later I was stripping the front of the engine. Not too bad of a job but getting the pulley screws off was a PITA as my torx sockets were a bit too long but got it done. I lost one of the water pump screws which dropped in the bowels of the engine (outside). I located it with the borescope but in my attempts to reach it knocked it somewhere I couldnt find it. I "borrowed" a screw from the cylinder head near the oil filler until I can get a replacement and got it all back together. I am still a bit worried that it didnt take enough coolant but will cycle the engine a few times to get any bubbles out


  9. Fixed.....it was the coolant reservoir and easy to do. It took less than 30 minutes to swap in the new one. cannot see any obvious problem with the old reservoir other than some white staining around the joint. I have a suspicion that the coolant was being pushed out of the overflow pipe because there was no obvious sign of running coolant either through the headlamp aperture or around the passenger side inner fender but it was running like a faucet under the car. I filled the new reservoir and ran her up to temp and no more leak.

    One interesting note, with discount from my local Porsche dealer the coolant was $59. The new reservoir from Sunset Porsche was the same price. I did look at Walmart for the Zerex Patrick mentioned but they didnt have it.

    So I can still look forward to changing the T pipes in my future. After changing out the coolant pipes, reservoir, coil packs, Cardan Shaft, rear struts, A/C blower headlamp cluster refit, maybe its time to trade in for a Range Rover before the engine starts making a noise. In 2006 this car was listed at $120K. She has not yet covered 80K miles. I love driving the car but with retirement just around the corner, I dont think my nerves can stand it...


  10. I was kind of afraid it might be the T pipe. I have a new reservoir on its way and will change it out first. The only reason I think it might be the culprit is that I refilled the reservoir with water and when it leaked again, almost clean water came out. Also the car is not overheating at all which is wierd. I have one of the T pipes already. I bought it when I did the main coolant pipes but didnt put it in because I couldnt get my hand down the back to where it was. Its a good excuse to buy a borescope which I have been itching to do. Harbor freight has a couple of likely looking candidates. Then I can plan some robotic surgery if I need to !

    I can also use it to inspect the inside of the A and B pillars and sills on my MGA's.


  11. I replaced the main coolant pipes last summer and the 2006 TT has been running great since then. Today the low coolant light came on but the engine is rock steady at its normal temp range. I looked under the car to see a steady stream of orange coolant. Without taking the under car panels off it is very diificult to tell where it is coming from. After removing the passenger side headlight and all plastic trim, I can see no evidence of the leak around the water pump or coolant expansion tank BUT when I refilled the expansion tank with plain water, the steady trickle of coolant turned colorless which I am thinking indicates either a hose from the reservoir or the reservoir itself. The engine temp is steady even when drivling. My big fear is the coolant lines at the back of the engine which I could not get to when I replaced the main pipes under the manifold.

    So....can anybody tell me where the pipes go from the coolant reservoir and offer any sage advice? If the car was at home, I could put her on the lift, take oof the underbody panels and poke around with a worklight but I am getting a little old to be crawling under the old girl...I have ordered a new coolant tank just as cheap insurance,


  12. The leak is leaving a smear of oil; on the top of the fresh air hose where it enters the box on the drivers side of the front valance and . Needless to say it is a pain in the butt to see anything up there without taking off either the front valance or the front drivers side wheel liner. I had the car on a lift and used a strong light but I cant see where it might be coming from. My suspects are a hose to the oil cooler or (heaven help me) a turbo. Not a serious leak but I would rather find it and fix before it becomes a problem. Any ideas ?


  13. The blower fan got slower and noisier and eventually stopped. Not good in 95 degree florida weather. I ordered a replacement from Sunset at $179 but couldnt wait. I got up early yesterday morning to beat the heat, dropped the old blower assembly and tested it. Unfortunately, I supported it on my wifes neck pillow. The fan kicked in, moved with the force of the air moved and promptly cut through the pillow and blew the small polystyrene beads all over the interior of the car. It was like being inside a snow globe. Still, nothing a vacuum cleaner couldnt sort out.

    On the second attempt, after 30 seconds or so running, the fan slowed and stopped so I pushed out the rubber cushions around the motor with a screwdriver, pulled the motor out, wiped off the dirt and crap, sprayed the bearings with WD40 then oiled with light machine oil before re-assembly. It has been running like a champ for 5 hrs driving so far. I will put the new one in when it gets here and keep this one for a spare. Now I need to get a replacement neck pillow just as soon as I get these beads out of my ear...


  14. I spent a couple of hours getting the dog hair off the interior at the rear of my car. I already have a canvas liner in the back and a rubber mat but the biggest problem are the side panels and rear lid liners. My wife wont let me shave the dogs or wrap their bods in plastic bags so I am thinking something like a 3-sided box shaped liner and the clear plastic sticky sheet you can buy to line the stairs. So what creative solutions do you all have?


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