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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. As I said, use a hard plastic spatula if you don't have a set of trim removal tools (basically plastic spatula's in different shapes and at different angles) so you don't scratch anything. Start at one side and slowly work your way across until the whole panel pops off. Here's a pic of the camera and trim piece. Not mine but found it on a Google search. Trim piece just pops back in.
  2. If it's like the '06 CTTS then you have to remove the rear trim panel, use plastic spatula's so as not to scratch, the fasteners just pop out. Then if your mechanically inclined you can take apart the small little jackscrews and clean and lubricate them. Worked on mine, been going on 3yrs+ since I took mine apart and cleaned and re-lubricated. Use a good quality grease like a synthetic as they tend to hold up better against moisture/water.
  3. Makes you wonder. Many of these options are more expensive that stock or about the same. Wonder if the .21 versions are any better? As it goes Porsche is changing its part number for revisions but if you check Beru's site they've had the same part number all along? Makes you wonder if they've really improved them much at all as it seems like they're regular failures still happening on every version after 3~5yrs of regular service. I also see the Spectra Premium label? A Canadian company although I don't know if they actually manufacture them in house. I just don't want to end up with a Ch
  4. I've got an old 2001 Audi TT 225bhp that I use as a commuter. For that you have the Beru coils or Hitachi. All the forums say don't use the Beru, use the Hitachi coils. I've had a set of the Hitachi coils in there for over 12yrs as the original Beru coils failed after about 3yrs. Just saying, Beru coils have a bad reputation on other forums too, but they manufactured enough versions of the 1.8T motors to use more than one OEM supplier so there is a choice, wish we had a choice.
  5. After pretty much going up the number chain on the revisions Porsche jumped from .09 to .20, then .21. I have fairly new .09's in mine but it is pathetic that after all these revisions that there are still problems.
  6. I need to look at mine when I get home but isn't the Bypass valve plumbed in below the MAF? And the PCV (crankcase ventilation is all plumbed in after the MAF too? Isn't it? A bad Turbo seal could cause oil air to get by the bypass valve but it should end up in the airstream below the MAF I believe. On the one side, I do pull my Intercooler lower hoses off every other year and drain the oil and spray brake cleaner up into the Intercoolers to help clean out some of the Oil. Turbo engines produce a lot more crankcase ventilation than normally aspirated since more pressure gets by the cylind
  7. I'm using Redline 75w-90 in my front & rear Diffs, have been for above 50K ('06 CTTS w/85K). Also using Redline D4 in the transmission.
  8. You probably already tried here but check out their site if you didn't. At least the RS6 (C5) also used ME7.7.1 Motronic so the blocks might be the same. http://www.ross-tech.com/products.php
  9. The compressor usually doesn't just fail suddenly, it usually gets weaker over time and will show a fault while still working somewhat. The Fiber rings on the compressor piston gets worn and hard and doesn't seal/pump as well. Usually worse when it's cooler first thing in the morning. Sound like your fault?
  10. No bad experiences, just good. If you use it and have Durametric you will find it is much better than Durametric as far as reading and resetting faults. Just to be safe I wouldn't recommend using it for any re-coding although I think a few have. There is some info over on Rennlist for others that have used it. I have done the search all modules as well as individual modules features as well as selecting a comparable year of Touareg since most of the modules are the same.
  11. Although the book say's the vehicle should be in a level position, that does mean the pan will have a slight slope so I wouldn't jack up the rear end. Any of the ride height positions (if w/air suspension) should keep the vehicle level if the suspension is calibrated correctly.
  12. You should be able to put a socket on the compressor/clutch shaft and see if it spins with only a little effort. And without the belt on you should be able to spin the clutch pulley easily. Put 12v to the A/C clutch wire and see if you hear the clutch click as it engages. Normally on filling (everything in good condition) you would fill with liquid Freon to a vacuumed system. Filling with gas on a running system requires you to bypass the low-pressure switch or the clutch won't engage as the low-pressure switch senses a low-pressure condition and keeps the clutch from engaging. Factory procedu
  13. All of what they said plus: I don't know where this got started but I have the factory manual for the Cayenne and there is nowhere I see that it say's to jack the vehicle off the ground and let the wheels free-wheel while filling? Sounds unsafe to me. The manual says to block the wheels so the vehicle does not move and make sure it is on a level surface. I fill the pan completely then start the vehicle while idling in neutral or Park and start filling again and monitor the temp. When the temp starts to climb I run it a couple of times through the gears once or twice but the manual states sta
  14. You mean just the sheet metal brackets with the male Torx or the whole Aluminum manifold off the back of the engine.
  15. You will always get more oil in the airstream from a Turbo car. Misconception is that it is from the Turbos, only if they're bad. It is from the crankcase ventilation/PCV. That is why Oil catch cans are so popular on Turbocharged cars of all makes. OEM oil/air separators don't do a good enough job. Porsche says to clean out the intercoolers by draining the botttom Intercooler pipes every 40K. I pull the bottom pipes and spray a little brake cleaner in there to get more of the oil out.
  16. As JFP said, need the A/C on High, temp set to lowest temp to keep the compressor engaged maximum time to get a better reading of true High & Low pressures.
  17. Yes, Esso LT71141 and Toyota Type IV are both different ATF specs. Both specs can be covered by some of the top quality synthetics. Porsche TSB "Approved Oils - Final drives and Transfer Case" 2/04 3965 lists Toyota spec Type IV for the transmission but AFT Esso spec LT71141 for the differential. I'm just saying that if you're not using one of the few top spec Synthetics that meet both specs then you should probably stick with the Type IV for the tranny and find the Esso LT71141 for the transfer case since that is what Porsche is calling for.
  18. lewisweller1982, Toyota type IV ATF is only for the Transmission, the transfer case takes Esso LT71141 spec. Some of the better Full synthetics meet both but the cheaper synthetics and older conventional oils don't. I've heard Ravenol makes good fluids but I just looked at their ATF Type IV and it doesn't show on the website that it meets the Esso spec. It's only .75~.85 Liters so I would hit up Audi, VW, and Porsche to see who charges the least at the Touareg & Q7 have the same transmission & transfer case. The VAG (Audi & VW) stuff even comes in a .85liter bottle.
  19. No vacuum hoses under the manifold that I can remember. Those crappy larger plastic vacuum pipes that Porsche uses can crack and leak almost un-noticed more so than the smaller lines. I'm sure you've checked most all of them but there are the ones running along the firewall, to the Vacuum pump as well as the ones running on top of the manifold up to the throttle body. Likely suspects that would cause an overboost are the ones that split and go to the compressor side of each Turbocharger and then on to the Boost valve mounted towards the back of the engine. A bad Boost (N75 in VAG speak) valve
  20. Porsche had a TSB that said to replace the Transfer case stepper motor and the Transfer case ECU at the same time.
  21. The whole back plastic trim piece the width of the rear hatch around the camera is attached with snap fittings. Use a plastic spatula if you don't have trim tools and remove the whole piece to get at the camera. Have someone extend and retract it through the PCM with you watching it and see if it works fine with the trim removed. I'm sure you will either find out where it is catching (maybe snapped a little loose) or the motor going bad. If you are very careful you can take the extension assembly apart as the motor just spins little jackscrews to extend and retract. If you decide to do it then
  22. Bad wire to Coil pack #3? Not too uncommon. Intermittent electrical problems like that are some of the hardest to diagnose.
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