hahnmgh63

That is the Antenna for GPS w/o Satellite Radio.  If you have XM/Sirius then you need part 95564711701 which combines the GPS & Sat Radio into one antenna.  Congrats on the repair.

I've heard on the Cayenne that the upper bushing go before the lowers, that is true for Audi's too. I have a new set of uppers to install on my '06 CTTS with 75K but it's not clunking yet but probably not too far in the future. Funny that CA has the highest Gasoline tax in the nation and your right, some of the worst roads. Even the highway seem to use a courser rock in their mix which adds to road noise.

I think the immobilizer program has to be programmed for the vehicle it goes in unless it was disable which can also be done by the tuning company so it can be swapped to different vehicles. Most companies don't want to defeat it though as they want everyone to purchase a new program through them and if a car gets wrecked then the program usually dies with the car or someone has to pay a dealer or someone with the know how to reprogram it or defeat it so they can use the ECU in their vehicle.

If you don't mine posting the part number for the Clip nuts I may just order a set to be ready when I pull mine next time. Thanks,

Although in the case of VAG, they went with composite impellers years back and they all would disintegrate before the timing belts were due and the cars would overheat if not caught on the gauge. Everyone replaced theirs with metal impellers, even VAG.

Do you mean the Mass Flow sensor? No Mass Flow pump that I know of. What relay did they replace?  Need the scan of the 4wd/transfer case but the transfer case stepper motors are known to go bad but not very common on '06 and later ones as they had later revision/improved? motors supposedly. On the earlier ones Porsche recommended replacing the motor with a new control module but I think that was only for the '03/'04 years as your '06 would probably have the newer software. Really can't be sure without a scan. Have you tried to engage/disengage your center differential?

They had two tests, I can't find the other one that had a Jeep Cherokee and a Tahoe (a little more of apples to apples) but here is the passenger the Miata one:  http://blog.caranddriver.com/performance-brake-pads-compared-hawk-hps-hawk-hp-plus-ebc-yellowstuff/

Yea, congrats on getting the job completed. Could have been bad with the dealer going out of business. Did the mechanic also replace all of the plastic guides for the timing chain? I imagine he did and wondering how much wear the guides showed and what your mileage on them was? I read a story a while back of someone pulling the timing cover off to find that the lower part of one of the plastic guides had become brittle enough to break off and fall down.

From the .pdf it looks like most if not all the special tools cab easily be substituted with something else. Also looks like the converter bolts are removed from below? I guess I've never really noticed the access for the converter bolts while changing the oil. I would also think that with the Intake manifold off the top Bell housing bolts were much easier to access?  Did you lower the engine/tranny at all or tilt it to get the transmission out? Congrats on the work. Do some searching on here and Rennlist for help with the Durametric as their online manual leaves a bit to be desired. There is a way to reset the Transmisson computer (TCU) so it goes through a complete relearning cycle. And yes the plastic hoses are junk, especially after a few years they get real brittle. I just did my Coolant T's this winter and either replaced most of the lines or used a razor blade to cut the plastic off the Plastic barbed fittings and replaced the hose portions with Silicone hoses. Congrats again on the job completed.

How did the timing chain guides look while you were in there? I've heard of them showing some deep grooves and even a Cayenne that had the bottom piece of one broken off.

The Hawk LTS sound like the better pad, from dphil66 feedback if your going with the Hawks' plus the description on Tire Rack but I'm sticking with my EBC Yellows. Car & Driver had a good comparison between EBC Yellows, Hawk HPS, and Hawk HP Plus and they chose EBC Yellows as the best. The comparison wasn't on a Cayenne but I've been running them on my '06 CTTS for almost 20K now and they'll probably last at least 15K more. I do drive a little aggressively and take advantage of the CTTS 380mm rotors on some triple digit decelerations sometimes.

Must have just needed so some drive cycles to clear out the memory. Did you scan for codes?

You will need to just go to Normal height and disable the Air Suspension per the manual. If I remember right you just push the height adjustment forward for at least 5 seconds until the Instrument cluster display shows it disabled. Do it the same thing again to enable it. You may need Durametric or a Porsche specific code reader to clear the codes and depending on the codes locked it may need the suspension calibration procedure. Either way you will be saving yourself a lot of money rebuilding the compressor seals yourself.

If you have Durametric check the codes and clear them of course but also go for a short drive. If that fails you may have to go through the Suspension calibration procedure.

It's fairly easy if you can turn a wrench, change the oil, change the spark plugs. First you have to remove the plastic underbody cover on the right side and it is just about under the frt right seat. I would just lower the assembly and do it in place next time. I removed everything did it. I had the OEM VW kit which has went up dramatically in price but since your in the UK, check Ebay store Bagpipingandy I bought a kit from him for my girlfriends Audi A8 (virtually the same compressor as the Cayenne) and it was perfect. Fixed the compressor problems on her car too (2005 A8, uses same brand of Air Suspension and compressor).

Only the Redline D4 for the transfer case and/or transmission. You need gear oil for the front & rear Diffs. I use Redline 75w-90 (I have the rear locking Diff options so I use the Redline 75w-90NS).

For OEM parts I use Sonnen Porsche a lot and usually the cheapest for dealer items: http://sonnenporscheoemparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215405

If I'm just going with an OEM supplier like Bosch, Lemforder, Mann, etc... then I use many others including:

www.autohausaz.com  good for Bosch and others

http://www.rmeuropean.com/

www.ecstuning.com

No sound deadening material to replace. It is mounted on rubber isolated mounts so maybe he got it tweaked or something and a hose or something is rubbing and transmitting the buzz when operating.

Should be enough room. At 100KPH indicated you will actually be doing about 104KPH.

The Porsche spec is for an Oil that meets Esso JWS3309 spec. Many of the top quality specs will meet that spec but I wouldn't use an ATF that doesn't list it on their website or bottle. I use Redline D4 ATF which is a full snythetic. Some use the Mobil 3309 which many believe is close if not the oil that Porsche might use. I personally think like most all oils that the Redline is a better oil and improved technology since the Cayenne came out but to each his own. Aisin, the manufacturer of the transmission also sells an oil too which you probably can't go too wrong there since they design and manufacture the transmission. A cheaper alternative to going to the dealer if you prefer that route might be to hit up a VW dealer for fluid for the Touareg or Audi dealer for Q7 transmission fluid since they use the same transmission.

If your just looking at the cheapest solution that is still better than no change I think the Toyota fluid is it but I doubt a Porsche dealer would let you bring in your own oil.  Now if it is an independent shop then they might use your supplied oil. The independent shop needs to know the proper procedure which is very similar (fill procedure and temperature checking) to the procedure used on the ZF transmissions in  Audi, VW's, BMW's, etc...

This ticking on the right definitely sounds like injectors firing and I think the DFI injectors are a little louder, may have to do with their higher operating pressures.

Congrats on that repair. It will give you a piece of mind for a while. My ('06 CTTS) was definitely leaking from one of the Coolant Tees' (finished last month). I also did a bunch of the vacuum hoses while I was in there. I wonder if it would have been much easier to get at the upper bell housing bolts while you had everything off but I can understand not wanting to dive into a bigger project. I almost think it would be easier to lower the whole engine/tranny cradle a few inches then pull the tranny.  I lowered the rear of the cradle a couple of inches to get at the Coolant Tee's earlier.  Your right about the Cable operated hose clamp pliers, I ended up braking one and now my Toolbox has 3 different brands so I'll always be ready but may never use them again :).

Right side sounds normal compared to my non-DFI '06CTTS but the left has the air flow sound. Maybe that is the Breather on top of the head although I have one too, doesn't look like the design of that has changed. I'll listen to mine today and see if I can hear the air flowing. Doesn't sound like anything bad, just an airflow sound through a pipe or hose, not an airflow leak. Does it run fine? Any codes?  If yes to both then it is most likely fine. Congrats on the newer Pig.

Loren will probably pipe in as I think he can cross reference to the available transmissions but he will probably need your exact transmission part # off the tag.