deilenberger

Latest leg (in lovely West Des Moines Iowa..) about 325 miles - combo of highway and sightseeing, average speed is down to 55, miles are down to 18.5MPG.. but it feels smoother under light throttle (I did a PSM reset this AM, SWMBO never even noticed..) So far - haven't seen a single Cayenne, and I'm almost half-way across the country.. (1,300 miles out of 2,700) - did see one VW Tourag in Amana Iowa - which is a lovely German village made into a tourist trap... but not a single Cayenne on the road. They must be out there someplace.. :)

I can attribute most of that to my wife being in the truck with me.. If she wasn't along for the trip I'm certain I'd be dipping down into the 16-18 MPG range.. ;) Mebbe I'll suggest she wash her hair in the AM (we're in a motel) and I will take the truck to the carwash.. then I can turn the PSM off and clear it's throat a bit.. it feels a bit lumpy on very gentle acceleration around town - usually a few runs up to 5k or so clear that right up. :) BTW - I haven't seen another Cayenne so far (935 miles).. saw one Panamera today, no other Porsches actually. They really do seem scarce outside the east coast area. Guess when I get to Las Vegas and LA the Cayenne will be a common utility vehicle.

The Imperial gallon is ~ 1.2 US Gallons.. so 1/1.2 = .83333, and 25.5 x .8333 = 21.24 MPG. I'll sacrifice the 0.75 MPG for the extra HP.. :) I've got to run it a bit with the PSM off tomorrow AM and reset the adaptation.. it feels lumpy under light acceleration... I think it learned to run a bit leanish.

Loren - true except for daylight savings.. :) So I'd have to select EST (-5GMT with no "summer" time selected..) I tried selecting "Mexico City" -06 GMT but apparently since Mexico City must not use DST, it still wasn't right. And yes - you would think it SHOULD do it automatically (my Garmin does.. it's along on the dash for the streets the 2010 Porsche $350 disk doesn't know.. and my cell phone does..) but it doesn't. And that's the latest SW update (did the updates about 2 weeks ago when I got the new Navtech disk..) I guess we shouldn't expect too much from a $6,000 GPS that uses $350 update disks.. :( BTW - both the Garmin and the PCM use NavTec maps.. just the Garmin ones are actually updates. The 2010 Porsche updated disk has a data set from 05/2009, and it doesn't include the street a friend lives on that was put in during 2006. I'm not impressed.

I know Porsches are rather scarce here in the heartland of the US... but, I tried setting my time zone on the PCM.. only to find there is NY Time Zone (-5GMT) and Mexico City Time Zone (-6GMT) but no sign at all of Central Time zone.. or Mountain Time Zone. What's a traveler to do? I tried the Mexico City setting, that didn't work since I guess they don't have Daylight-Savings (called "Summer Time" on the PCM). Seems like a rather odd oversight....

At an average speed of 61mph, about 900 miles so far - 20.5 MPG. Cruise frequently set between 65 and 75MPH. Not so awful.. :)

Hmm.. and I'm driving out to CA for a few weeks.. :) Using the right tools you can see if you have the aluminum pipes or not without major disassembly. SEE: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/porsche-cayenne-forum/550109-plastic-or-aluminum-coolant-pipes-how-to-tell-without-intake-removal.html Only PITA on the coils is getting the passenger side beauty cover off the engine. It has to be wiggled out from under the engine-brace mount, and under the air-pump mount. Other then that - not a big deal to do. You'll need tools like triple-square (aka spline) drivers, shorty torx drivers (I use the 1/4" drive ones in a tiny wratchet), and probably E-Torx drivers (external torx drivers.) plus normal metric sockets. Good time to replace the plugs if they haven't been done - you can find them for less then $3/each on Amazon with a bit of searching. And I imagine the driveline would be covered by the warranty - can't see why not, but worth reading the policy very carefully to make sure there aren't oddball exclusions.

I'd at least want to view the PN on the coil.. if it ends with 003 or greater, it's the new "fixed" coils, and they likely won't be a problem. If not - since your extended warranty won't replace pre-emptive, I'd go for the NAPA ones. PN IC643. Made by Beru, reboxed and sold by Echlin. $22/each. Depends. If it was done sometime in the past year or so - chances are it got the new design aluminum replacement pipes. If you have the work order on it - you can check this by the PN's. There are a number of DIY/FAQs on the pipes, and some include the replacement PN for the aluminum pipes. If it was done fairly early in the trucks life, chances are it just got new plastic ones. In that case you probably have 30k miles or so to think it over.. :) I wouldn't say it's "extremely" common.. more equal to BMW water pumps. Some seem to last forever, some go rather quickly. It may have something to do with how the truck was used. Lots of off-road stuff is going to put a lot of stress on the rubber mount, as will burnouts and jackrabbit starts. In my case, I've inspected mine twice, and so far it looks just fine. What I did was tossed the bearing in the trunk area since my truck is under CPO warranty, so if it craps out anywhere near a Porsche dealer - it goes to them and gets a new driveshaft. If it does it in the middle of Rt 50 in Nevada - well, I've got a bearing with me, so mebbe I could find a driveline shop to rebuild it by installing my part. No problem. Eilenberger's Law of Parts: "You never need what you have.." and the corollary: "The chance of needing a part increases with the distance from the part.." - so I carry a few spares in the truck that could disable it (serpentine belt, driveline bearing, spare coil), and I take along a laptop with my Durametric software on it and the Durametric cable. This has worked on many long trips I've taken in the past with a Saab-96 (3-cylinder, 2-cycle.. did coast2coast2coast in it), a lot of BMW motorcycles, a lot of BMW cars, and I'm hoping it works on a Porsche. :)

The big three (I see no mention of them being done) 1 - Coils (gave Porsche a really bad reliability rep..) 2 - Cooling pipes - costly but not doing them means they will fail sooner or later 3 - Driveshaft - seems more prevalent on '04 models, but that might just be because there are more of them Coils - you might be able to get Porsche to pay for them if they haven't been replaced, but that means one has to fail before Porsche will do anything. Replacements are available from NAPA for around $21 each, and the quality can't be any worse then the ones from Porsche Cooling pipes - do some reading. Not a cheap job, not an easy job. It's a "when" not "if" sort of failure. Some have lasted beyond 100k miles.. and some not. Driveshaft - seems the rubber mount for the center bearing on it lets go. It isn't clear to me if the rubber fails, or the bearing fails and rips the rubber out. Porsche fix is $ (new driveshaft) - there are rebuilt driveshafts available, and some DIY's on replacing the bearing. Bearings are available for > $80 on Ebay.. I carry one in the truck (spare tire well..) Other then that - I'd suggest reading here, and becoming a paying member of: http://www.renntech....ayenne-turbo-s/ - paying members have access to all the Porsche service bulletins. Good luck.. BTW - reliability - probably on a par with BMWs (which sometimes have exploding engines, and most have exploding cooling systems) and perhaps better then Audi (at least earlier Audi's..) It is not a Honda.. but you didn't want a Honda so that doesn't matter. :) :welcome:

Tomorrow I leave on a 7,000 mile trip in the Cayenne. Put the back seats down so I can fit all the "necessary - absolutely necessary" stuff in, and then notice a blob of grease on the trim below the door (Titanium edition, so I have the extra flare there..) Get a dirty rag, wipe it off - it's pretty obviously some sort of moly grease. Close the door, notice a few more blobs, by the pattern they were tossed up by the front tire. Ohhhhh... immediate thought is a bad CV joint boot. So - I start it up, turn the wheel all the way to the left, go take a look. Boot looks brand new (parts tags are still on the axles). Turn it all the way to the right - look at the other side - perfect. Feel all around it.. my hand comes off dusty but no grease. Look at the fender liner - no grease. Look at the wheel spindles (which the boot/joint go through) - no grease. It's NOT my grease - it's someone elses. Whew. Wish people wouldn't leave blobs of grease on the road.. it's enough to give one palpitations. :P

Another clue - totally random capitalization.. :eek:

Pehaps a little bit of "viral marketing" as well............... It is a tad odd that all 7 of his posts are to this thread...

Indeed - if you Google "HHO Hoax" - lots of interesting stuff turns up. http://www.tinaja.com/glib/muse153.pdf - is an interesting disection of the free-energy hoax. SNOPES also has a discussion on it in their forum: http://msgboard.snopes.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=56;t=002848;p=0 http://www.sciencefile.org/SciFile/forum/Bad-Science/17294-HHO-Cars Is also amusing. But - to a true believer.. it's just gotta work. :rolleyes:

I assume the K&N is also "too good to be true".. :) It's not like the Cayenne has a restrictive intake system.. BTW - if you dig deep enough on that website - the scam triggers really go off with the story about how the inventor of the device was murdered by poisoning - by potential investors. That just screams conspiracy scam (like how the oil companies bought the pill that converts water into gasoline..)

Right you are.. let see if I can attach a photo of the inside..

I got the bottle from SunCoast.. somehow it appears now on their website even though PET hasn't been updated with the color code. A note if anyone else has a blue/silver Titanium edition: The same color has been used by VW from 2001-2007, called "Blue Silver Metallic" (BlauSilber) with the paint code LB5S. It was used on the '05-07 Tuareg (and some New Beetles and other models.) Guess they had a few cans left over when the Titanium edition (let's sell some of these pigs..) was being "designed" in the Tuareg side of the production line. None of the aftermarket touch-up places list it for Porsche - but quite a few do list it for VW, so.. alternative sources are available. I think the Titanium color also came from the VW side of the factory - it appears to be "Titanium Metallic" in VW speak (but I haven't seen it firsthand to compare. I did get the pig next to a new-beetle in BlauSilber at the gas station yesterday, colors are identical.) Oh - Porsche PN - standard PN for touch-up kit - followed by "B5S" (duh!) The "L" in the VW code stands for lacquer so the code is probably "Lacquer Blau #5 Silber"

If you mean the cover over the rotation point of the rear wiper (with the switch on the back) - this is a common loss. Unfortunately Porsche no longer sells just the cover (which was a few $$) - they now only sell the switch with the cover - for around $30/USD.. and no one needs the switch. When you get the new one, besides the snap on catches (which break) - use a bit of contact adhesive on it.. it might survive going through the car wash that way. Oh - the dealer would have no reason to remove this cover - there is nothing to lubricate behind it - unless they were replacing the entire rear wiper arm.

Given your mix of driving, gonna be tough getting it over 16.. but as a hint - hit the TRIP button on your PCM. The MPG display there can be reset easily and quickly, and responds quickly to changes in driving style/conditions. If you drive it like there is an uncooked egg between your foot and the fun-pedal, I can promise you the mileage will go up, but that's awfully hard to do when "inferior" cars are leaving the traffic light next to you.. :) I was playing with mine yesterday - found that suburban highways marked 50MPH will result in > 18MPG if I set the cruise control to 50, and then just don't touch the pedals.

Somehow, call me goofy - I don't think the class action lawsuit will do him a lot of good in Australia..

If I had to guess - it's something that was on your driveway before you pulled up in the Cayenne.. I can't think of much of anything in a vehicle that would look like that..

It isn't even so much an issue of "supporting" the dealer/PNA - it's encouraging Navtec to continue to make available updated maps. Rather obviously if everyone stole the maps by making copies or downloading torrent feeds Navtec would have no reason to continue making updates. There is always the "unintended consequences" issue.. and this could easily be one. I have no difficulty understanding this since I spent many years writing software and other intellectual properties, and would be rather upset if someone decided to steal my work. FWIW - I installed a new map set (2010 mapset - dated 08/2009) last night. Cost was $300 from one of our supporting vendors, and it included all the disks needed to update the PCM operating system and navigation software. Not a bad deal IMHO.

SEE: http://forums.rennli...ke-removal.html And yes and yes. I believe Loren will explain to you the forums policy on asking for illegal copies of copyrighted software. You just bought a how many 10's of thousands vehicle and you want to steal $300 worth of software? Buy a new factory disk. There are reports of the copied DVD's bricking the PCM.

Probably not. The venting of freon means the pressure in the system is getting too high. Has it been worked on? Perhaps recharged without pulling a vacuum on it first? Moisture in the freon will cause this sort of behavior. Also - if the AC cooling fan (the smaller of the two) craps out, system pressure will get too hight.

No problem. Wish I'd taken more. If someone around the NJ shore area is going to do the pipes - let me know, I'll be over with the camera to fill in the gaps. It's a week now - the coolant level has settled nicely (I check it in the AM - engine cool - and after setting it midway between MIN/MAX - it hasn't changed at all.) I still have a wiff of coolant smell, but I suspect that's just from spilled/leaked coolant - the smell has diminished day by day. Tonight I washed down the engine, engine compartment and underbelly (just using plain water from the hose) - then warmed it up - and no more smell that I could sniff.

Describe HOW it's difficult to start.. (what conditions, when, etc..)