deilenberger

The earlier beta-6 was somewhat buggy. I'd suggest DL'ing the latest (I think it's 6.0.8 - dated April 14th). I had similar results with the early beta version - and sometimes it could be coaxed to read other modules if I reset the instrument cluster (by pulling the cluster fuse - located in the left side fuse panel in the door opening.) The cluster apparently is also the "Gateway" - and until it can talk through the Gateway it can't access many of the other modules. 6.0.8 read EVERYTHING on my '06 without a hitch. And that's on an old IBM Thinkpad with a Pentium-III processor and WindowsXP - SP2. No need to reset the cluster either. I was even able to read the wiper module, and found there was an error on my rain-detector (which hadn't been working correctly) - after clearing the error the rain-detector works just fine. One or two things that may help: If your PC has WiFi - disable it for the session, it chews up quite a bit of processor. If you are using a laptop - plug it in. As someone here pointed out - when running on battery - many laptops slow down the processor to save power. Unload any unnecessary crap that gets loaded on startup. I haven't tried the latest on my Netbook - but since it has about the same or more processing power as the old Thinkpad I suspect it should be OK. The interface does work reasonably well on a 10" screen on the Netbook - something I can't say for some other diagnostics programs that live on it. I was quite impressed with the capabilities of 6.0.8 - the real time monitoring seems to work well, and the ability to read coding options (and change them if I knew what I was doing - and I don't..) might come in useful someday.

Sorry - nope. I don't have parts that were removed - apparently Porsche wants them back for warranty claims. If there is one (and I'm going on the tech's diagnosis, which seems to have worked - just tried starting it after it sat for 4 hours - started right up :) ) I suspect it's internal to the plastic housing. Can't see how the housing might be disassembled - but I guess with a big enough hammer anything is possible. Have you had that flange/filter apart?

Thought I'd update this. The truck now starts correctly. :notworthy: It spent the past week at Princeton Porsche in Lawrenceville NJ puzzling their techs and Porsche-Germany. The initial thought (and diagnostics via the manuals) was fuel pumps having a bad check valve. So - it got two new pumps. No joy. Next thought was the fuel-pressure-regulator, since it's supposed to work as a check valve. New FPR - no joy. Finally Porsche Germany had them looking at the spaghetti nest of plumbing inside the tank for a leak in a hose. In order to check it out, they removed everything from the tank, setup a test with the pumps in gasoline, and wired it up. No leaks. Finally - since the only component they hadn't tried was the fuel filter - they borrowed one and put it in. JOY! They ordered a new one and installed it this AM - and the truck now starts perfectly. Apparently there is an undocumented check valve inside the fuel pump that even Porsche Germany is unaware of. I give Princeton Porsche's service department 5 stars on what is an ugly job well done (mucking about inside a fuel tank with gas in it is not a pleasant job at all.. BTDT and don't want to do it again.) They persisted, when other dealers had given up. They kept me well informed on what they were doing, and I had use of a loaner Audi for the duration (2.0T - it isn't a Porsche for sure.. but at one point they felt bad it was taking that long and they offered me a Panamera loaner. Not wanting to get spoiled, I stuck with the Audi..) If you need GOOD service in NJ - I can recommend them without reservations. Good friendly people, who didn't mind me bothering them with my ideas on what it could be (and I was wrong - but no one had thought of a check valve in the fuel filter.)

So far - assuming the people who replaced the pipes as a precaution (non-failed) didn't have leaks.. it looks like 11 non-leaking systems vs 2 leaking. Hopefully more people will post their experiences - but to date - failure rate appears to be about 20% (of a very small non-scientifically valid sample.. ANY survey like this tends to get the negative responses over-represented since those people are usually pissed off..) - not good - but not as awful as one might think reading the threads on pipe failures.

Interesting so far - no reports of failed pipes.. I know they're out there..

I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

In an attempt to find the actual failure rate and timing of the coolant pipes - I thought a poll might be useful. Please check off only the applicable answer.. perhaps this can be made a sticky. SINCE each question requires at least one item to be checked off - I've included as the last option an option that refers you to the next or prior section - these will be ignored when I tabulate the results.

Downloaded the latest today (dated 4/15/11) - it's 6.0.8.6. Works much better then earlier betas on my '06 Cayenne. No longer have to reboot the instrument cluster for it to connect - and it now talks to all the modules that can talk on the truck. It also appears that coding is enabled (enthusiast version) at least for the moment.. :thumbup: Looking to become a very useful tool!

Someone might want to browse around Grainger Supply and see if they have metal replacements for the plastic T's.. it certainly isn't an uncommon design, and I suspect with barbed fittings such as this T uses - one very slightly oversize (say in "SAE" size) will work just fine with standard hose clamps. Certainly be way less costly then special machining them. And from what I'm reading - it appears these are turbo only bits - are the turbos water cooled or oil cooled (better if water cooled..) Also - the "pink" antifreeze - anyone compared it to the GM long-life stuff (which is sort of a dark pink/orange color..) It wouldn't surprise me to hear that Porsche uses it since they designate the coolant as "lifetime" (as did GM) - and the jello forming is a common happening if people mix GM's stuff with "normal" ethelyne-glycol coolant.

Quoting myself.. Got carried away at Harbor Freight and bought their remote camera boroscope tool. On sale for $80 - has a nice little 2.5x3" LCD display screen, and a probe mounted close focus CCD camera with LED lights to light things up. Wiggled it around behind the intake manifold and I can now authoratively state that I still have the plastic pipes (bummer!) If anyone in NJ is curious and wants to look at theirs - I'm in the shore area. PM me.. free even!

Aren't the seat bolts double-square bolts (need a special driver - they look a bit like Torx, but aren't..)? BTW - one of the service manuals (probably one available here to subscribing members) tells you to remove the trim over the sliding rails before attempting to tilt the seat back.

Finally got to Harbor Freight today.. and of course the $25 (-20% coupon) fuel pressure gauge I was buying turned into a $150 bill (this just seems to happen at HF..) Got home, put it together (nice kit - comes with all sorts of adaptors..) Pulled fuses 13 & 14 (do NOT drop a fuse in the underhood fuse box - it's a PITA to diassemble to get to the bottom, I could have left it there - nothing to short, but just couldn't bring myself to.. but I digress..) Pulled the fuel pump fuses then cranked the car to relieve any residual pressure, and hooked up the gauge. I actually needn't have bothered pulling the fuses. I replaced the fuses, and tried starting the truck. On starting - it did it's usual bumbling start - and the fuel pressure gauge read a nice solid 4-Bar. I tried pulling fuse 13 - no change - solid 4 bar. Put it back in, pulled fuse 14 - engine died as fuel pressure dropped to 0. Tried restarting - another bumbling start - and then I had 4-Bar again - so the fuel pump switchover that others have described worked as expected, and both pumps were capable of 4 bar. I replaced both fuses - then shut the truck off. Pressure immediately started dropping - reaching 0 Bar in about 15 seconds. Tried this several times, start it (starts lean) check pressure - 4 bar, shut it off - pressure immediately drops. So - I'm guessing the check valve isn't checking. Or I have a really badly leaking injector. I really feel it's probably the check valve since once the truck does start, it smooths out quite quickly - no indication of a rich mixture, and when I replaced the plugs - they all looked the same. If one injector was dribbling fuel, I'd expect to see it in the plug. Anyone know where the check valve is? The spec in the manual is the system must hold 3-Bar after shutoff for at least 10 minutes. I'm going to approach the dealer with the info - since they hadn't bothered doing a pressure test (or ANY testing) when it was in before for this problem. Oh - what else did I buy at Harbor Freight? They have a neat boroscope tool - usually $130 - on sale for $79 - couldn't pass it up. Has a flexible probe about 2' long with a camera on the end with two LEDs for illumination (the brightness of these can be varied.) Color LCD - about 3"x2.5" - battery operated. I figured I could try to see if the heater pipes had been replaced in my truck. I can now authoratively say they haven't. By wiggling it around behind the engine, with the tip bent to point forward a bit - I was able to see the pipes where they pass through the clamp at the rear of the block - and they're black plastic. I also picked up a set of storage bins, and some small toys (aluminum valve caps, 1/2" deburring tool - free with a coupon!) It's not easy getting out of HF for less then $100. I've proven that many times.

I played with it some more tonight with lots turned off on the Netbook.. and version 5 can talk to all the modules except the wiper module (which may not talk..) Version 6.xx beta is very buggy on talking to the modules. When I first tried it - it was able to talk to many of the modules, but once I asked it to talk to the airbag module - it hung up, gave a divide by zero error and then wouldn't talk to much of anything. I went back to 5 - and it could still talk to everything but the wiper module. One thing I spotted looking at real-time values in version 6 - the camshaft advance - I'm assuming is only on the intake? There appear to be readouts for expected advance (setpoint angle?), then two readouts of actual angle. The two readouts of actual angle seem to track well, but they do not match what I think was the expected advance (setpoint angle.) On BMWs this usually indicates a "Vanos Error" where the advance mechanism isn't tracking correctly for some reason. Since the documentation on what's happening and what's being measured is a bit lacking - wonder if you have any insight on this? I captured the data on an Excel file, so have to go and look at it.. Found it.. What I was looking at was: (1) Camshaft, actual angle, bank 1 Camshaft, actual angle, bank 2 (2) Actual angle for inlet camshaft, bank 1 Actual angle for inlet camshaft, bank 2 (3) Setpoint angle for inlet camshaft, bank 1 Setpoint angle for inlet camshaft, bank 2 At idle - #1 and #2 read out around 0 (-1, -0.5) and #3 a pretty constant 15.5 Reving the engine - #1 and #2 read out around 2 to 50, and #3 drops then returns to around 15.5 Is there anyplace to find out what these readings actually mean?

JFP - thanks. That's the sort of info I was looking for... I talked to Jay Horak, and I would have to update the interface I have to their newest to use the Porsche tests, so that adds more to the cost besides the Porsche module.. The problem I have with the Durametic is it is iffy on the Cayanne - 6.0-beta has some problems apparently communicating with some of the modules, and giving me real time values. I didn't see an option in DuraMetric to activate the fuel pumps, that would be of interest to me.

A bit of an update... haven't gotten a fuel pressure test gauge yet - but that's my next step. My WAG is the check valve in the fuel pump (probably in the pressure regulator) that's responsible for keeping the system pressurized between starts is allowing pressure bleed-down. Harbor Freight has one for $25 - probably go pick it up tomorrow. I stopped at the local dealer this AM, and they'd sold the car new, CPO'd it and serviced it. They had offered me a service history printout. It was taken to them back in 05/10 for EXACTLY the same problem. The printout said the DME had no stored codes and the mechanic couldn't replicate the problem, so.. it got the sunshine treatment. There were other incidents of the truck being in for the same repair multiple times. I can understand how Porsche gets a poor reliability reputation when dealers don't actually fix things. The dealer service manager asked if I wanted to schedule an appointment after I commented on the repeat problems. They could give me one in 2 days - which to me means not many people are bringing their cars in for service, and it explains why the several Porsche independent speciality shops in the area are doing so well.

Since you have a 4.5 - you're posting in the wrong forum (easy to do) - you want to go to: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/forum/31-9pa-9pa1-cayenne-cayenne-s-cayenne-turbo-cayenne-turbo-s/ Your problem isn't that uncommon (nor that hard or expensive to fix) - search for "purge valve" - you should find your answers.

JFP - help me out here. I'm confused. On http://www.autoenginuity.com/order.html - i'ts $250 for the OBD-II level base tool, and then: Enhanced Porsche Expansion #EI13 - Access Porsche-specific systems not covered by the OBD-II specification. Requires ST06 ProLine Interface. $229.95 The Cayenne systems covered seems quite extensive - and a bit more depth then Durametic offers (at least what my Durametric with version 6.xx beta software offers.) The total is less then $480 - for unlimited use - no 3 VIN restriction. To me that seems quite competitive with Durametric Pro at $735 - but perhaps you found a different price somewhere else? Perhaps you misread? Or? Dunno what's "obvious", except your posting wasn't entirely accurate. Since I already own the Durametic and have found it not exactly enlightening nor the beta 6.xx software bug-free, and I also own the AE interface that I've used with my BMWs for years - this was an HONEST inquiry if anyone had USED the AE tool on a Cayenne - telling me if it's worth spending the $230 to add the Porsche capabilities to my AE tool.

wvicary, Thanks. Glad to know it wasn't just me.. :thankyou: I'm setting up the Netbook with a semi-mimimalist set of boot programs/drivers (it's amazing that each and every program thinks IT is the most important program and loads their stuff in.) At least half the processor is usually consumed by anti-virus programs checking the other system loaded programs aren't misbehaving. And good clue about plugging it in - it probably goes into a low power mode when running off battery, reducing processor speed. Thanks again! Don

Anyone else using the DuraMetric (latest beta of 6.xx.xx) on a Netbook hooked up to a Cayenne? When I initially hooked up - all it could see was basic stuff - like OBD-II level stuff. After reading the instructions for the 5.0 release - I spotted that on the Cayenne, most of the modules are accessed via the Gateway (shades of GhostBusters! We have a GATEKEEPER!), that apparently is easily confused, and once confused needs help getting unconfused. The Gateway apparently lives in the instrument cluster. Recycling the cluster (remove fuse 40 in the left dash fusebox for 10 seconds) seems to help, but after finally getting into several modules, it would start to not find modules again.. requiring me to again reboot the instrument cluster. The earlier 5.0 software seemed to find it easier to connect to the modules in the car. In one of their manuals (5.0 or perhaps the 6.0 beta-draft) they mention possibly having timeouts occur if your computer isn't fast enough... hence my question. I'm using it on a several year old Dell with the Atom processor, I think 1.1GHz.. Just curious if anyone else has tried a Netbook and experienced any problems? I probably should tell it to fogeddabout WiFi networking and bluetoof and anti-virus to lessen the load on the processor. Hey - I gotta try that tomorrow. Ain't the forum grand - worked through my own problem here.. ;) :renntech:

DuraMetric told me - no codes anywhere on the truck. I guess it's one of the few times I've been disappointed by no codes. It thinks everything is working just fine. Update on this - sorta a cross-post to rennlist.. So what next? Fuel gage. My friend said a loss of fuel pressure won't trigger the OBD-II system, and likely won't even cause any codes to be stored. I guess he's right because there was nothing to find. I did learn how to reboot the instrument cluster/gateway - a fuse in the left side dash fuse box. 10 seconds out and it's rebooted.. Makes a nice whirring noise when the fuse is plugged back in.

Just curious - if anyone is using AutoEnginuity's tool with the Porsche extensions? And if so - how does it compare to the DuraMetric? I use one with BMW extensions on my BMWs and have found it to be a valuable tool.. and Jay Horak (the author of it) is fairly accessable.. http://www.autoenginuity.com/ http://www.autoenginuity.com/products-software.html#EI13

Interesting. The speed sensitive part doesn't appear to be working. The operation sounds as if it should be identical to that on my BMWs.. but it's not. Perhaps the DuraMetric will allow me to reboot that control unit.. :)

The thumb knob adjustment is identical to BMWs I think.. I'm very familiar with using it on my bimmers (many years of driving them..) and I have it set on what I assume is the lowest setting (down, or anti-clockwise looking at the end of the stalk..) Question: Does the Cayenne system automatically go into a very long interval intermittent when the vehicle is stopped? That's a very nice feature BMWs have had, even before they had rain sensing (on their regular intermittent wipers)..

I'm hoping it gets here soon.. :) Can the EVAP purge fail (I assume open) and not throw a CEL?