deilenberger

I guess I'm used to BMW's auto-rain-sensing wipers.. the Cayenne one seems to work quite differently. On the BMW - if it's set for rain-sensing (1) it actually seems to sense when there are rain drops falling. The Cayenne one just sits there wiping away even when there is just a very light mist - without any intermittent operation. (2) the BMW one goes into a very slow intermittent mode when the vehicle is stopped - like at a traffic light. I don't see this happening on the Cayenne (the BMW one also goes into a slow-timed intermittent mode when stopped even if in the manual slow wiper mode.) (3) When the Cayenne wiper is busily wiping away - even with nothing to wipe - I found if I click it down to OFF - and then back to intermittent - it seems to go into a semi-timed mode, related somewhat to the time I had it in the off position. BMW used to have a wiper control that worked this way - non-rain sensing. (4) BMW when it senses torrential rain automatically switches to high-speed wiper operation. I experienced that sort of Biblical rain today - but the Cayenne wiper stayed in slow-speed operation. Is there something I'm missing or did Porsche just not quite get it right on rain-sensing wiper operation? I've read the manual, and it sounds as if it should work the way I'd expect, but it just doesn't. Something must be amiss (not a-mist.. bad pun intended..) Is there a calibration setting for the rain sensor? (There is on my BMWs - done with the dealer level tools.) Not dumping on Porsche - just really puzzled how two German cars can have such similar systems that appear to work completely differently.

Loren, I did stop at AutoZone on the way home last night (wanted to get some other items anyway..) and they not only have a standard length 1/4" drive 5.5mm ($2.75 or so..) they have a deep one (that must be the $3.29 one). Bought the standard length. Now I have to dig around and try to find the screws.. :censored: Thanks! :thankyou:

:thankyou:mazingerv1, THANKS for posting what the actual solution was. So many of the threads here - someone posts a question, people make suggestions, and we never hear what the conclusion was. That makes the threads less then useful. Nice to see one where the solution was posted!

If the fuel filter inside - or outside the fuel tank? I was under the impression it was inside, but I'm an impressionable person, so it's entirely possible I had the wrong impression..

BigBuzki, The link you provided did make me recall thinking it could be an engine temp sensor problem. I "won" a DuraMetric on Ebay last night (sorry to all the other bidders..) and expect to see it by the weekend, so I will be checking this. If the temp sensor is reporting a cold engine to the ECU/DME when it's actually warm, that could account for the balky starting (too rich a mixture.) Another slight clue - I *think* I can avoid the problem by very slightly depressing the gas pedal as I start (which is really unnatural for me since it means left foot on the brake, and I've been driving stick-shift for the past 50 years.. still do in my BMW M-Coupe..) The engine starts better I think (haven't tried it enough times to say conclusively) races a bit to about 1,000-1,100 RPM, then settles back to normal idle at around 550-600 RPM as I release the pedal. That may indicate the rich-mix on starting as being the root cause, or not. :cheers: Thanks again!

BigBuzki, thanks much for the reply.. the silence here made me think I was yelling into the wilderness.. Actually - yes - I have (and I'm a bit deaf so that's an accomplishment.) And I'm guessing, despite my theory above, that this isn't the problem, since when I went to start it AFTER hearing the pump prime last night, it exhibited the usual symptoms. Last night I again cleaned the throttle body - with official "CRC Throttle Body Cleaner".. and a microfiber rag. Got some more dirt out of it - and it made no difference (I think it was Einstein who said the definition of idiocy is repeating what didn't work before and expecting different results.. I'm perfectly capable of idiotic actions.) I can certainly see that being helpful IF a pump fails.. but since I've exhibited no symptoms that I can see of a failed (non-pumping) pump (it does start, just balky sometimes; it isn't limited by fuel - it can easily run up to redline under a load) I didn't see where that would be of use. My pump failure thoughts were more along the line of a leaking check valve - not a non-pumping pump. I'm curious about the pump system.. are there actually primary and secondary (ie - low pressure feed to the high pressure) pumps or is it plumbed so the pumps are simply run in parallel with whichever has fuel running (thinking of the Cayenne on a side slope where all the fuel runs to one half of the tank..)? The appearance of the pumps would make me think they both are of equal capacity.. I have stashed that post away though.. (probably should put a copy in the owner's handbook.) The symptoms I'm getting are simply a slow to start situation (balky), and when it does start, it stumbles a bit until it clears itself out, then it runs fine. The problem reminds me a lot of when there were ugly carbon deposit problems on intake valves back in the '80's on BMWs. The deposits would soak up fuel as the engine was running, then if the engine sat long enough hot - the fuel evaporated out of the carbon, causing a VERY rich condition when you went to restart. You had the same symptom - balky starting and then stumbles, followed by running fine once the rich mix flushed out of the intake. BMWs cure was (1) walnut shell blasting of the intake valves - really! (2) reformulated fuel - the BMW "test" became the standard adopted by all fuel manufacturers and eventually the government (3) treatment with FI cleaner - repackaged Chevron Techron. That did clear up the problem - eventually. It took a few years though. Last night I added a second dose of Techron to the fuel - and this AM - I did an "Italian Tuneup" on the way to work a bit - playing around in Manual mode. That did help back in the days of badness with BMWs.. perhaps it might do some good here if the valves are carboned up. I have no idea how the truck was driven before I got it - I've got just about 800 miles on it now, so it is possible it was getting short trip duty in our very urban environment - and the conservative (fuel economy I assume) shift points the Tiptronic picks rarely let the engine get much above idle driving in NJ. Thanks again - good to know someone is out there.. :thankyou: And good to bounce ideas around. Sometimes it jogs things for me..

955.572.219.10 Particle filter -- US MSRP $27.24 Amazon - MANN filter - $16.00 (identical to what came out of mine, except for all the leaves and crap on the intake side.. :) ) BTW, I spent about 4 hours looking for a source of a 5.5mm wrench/socket/driver. NAPA has one in their catalog, but no stores stock them. Harbor Freight - no good. Lowes tool department - no good. Sears lists them on-line, not in the store that I could find. I finally used pliers (GASP!) - got them out and threw the 5.5mm's as far away as I could after rummaging through my big tray of self-tap screws to find some real ones with the same thread pitch/size. Found some that take a 5/16" nut driver. And I have LOTS of 5/16" nut drivers kicking around. SWMBO asked why Porsche used such an odd size.. and I was unable to come up with a good reason. ALL the counter guys gave me the fish-eye when I asked about 5.5mm drivers/sockets. They didn't actually believe they existed. Porsche made it VERY easy to get to the 5.5mm screws, and then impossible to remove them. Go figure.

Cayenne S (V8) 2006, 56,700 miles. Newish to me. It's back. It seemed to go away after cleaning the throttle-body (as suggested by a member here..). Symptom is: 1 - Cold start (hasn't been run in hours, cold or cool outside): Starts flawlessly. Turn key, it's running. 2 - Not entirely cold start (was run, got to normal temps, stop, park for 30-60 minutes) but fairly cool environmental conditions (below 50F): Turn key, it tries to start, and sort of stumbles to a start. I usually have to give it a bit of gas via the pedal to get the RPMs up to where the starter disengages. Once started it runs fine. No other symptoms, no SES, no stalling. I've done: 1 - Air filters (not that I suspected these as a cause - mostly 'cause it has 56k on it and the 60k service is coming up..) 2 - Plugs - (put in the correct Bosch 4-prong jobbies - great price at Amazon for them, and again done because the service is coming up.) There was a slight stumble coming off low RPMs in A6th - the plugs made this go away. 3 - FI Cleaner - Ran a dose of Techron (FI cleaner - very good stuff) with a tank of fuel. 4 - Cleaned the MAF's - with CRC MAF cleaner. 5 - Cleaned the throttle-body - using solvent on a rag (rather then spraying) It seemed to clear up after cleaning the TB, but now (after several days) has started reoccuring. Things I've found out: 1 - The goofy auto-crank on first start attempt isn't the best thing in the world when this happens. The starter tends to stay engaged and then be over-run by the engine. If I could, I'd disable this. If it wasn't for this, I could pretty much simply ignore it. 2 - Looks as if other people have experienced this - and fuel pumps and engine temp sensors have been mentioned as possibilities, but I can't find any posting where these actually were the solution. Most threads start out with these, and the owners are getting them done, then they never come back to report the results. 3 - It has been intimated here that the fuel pumps DO "charge" the system if the door handle is pulled when the car is COLD. I can't find confirmation on this, except people reporting when doing the coolant pipes that they feared someone opening the door while the fuel injection system is open since it would spray gas all over. That could explain the perfect starting when absolutely cold if there was a bad check valve in the fuel system allowing it to depressurize, and the time that it sits and doesn't start OK is due to the engine not being cold enough to trigger the system pressure charging. (This makes me think this could be fixed by programming by Porsche so the pumps charge whenever the car is cranked like normal vehicles do.) 4 - According to a friendly Porsche tech I chat with - he felt the TB needed recalibration, and there may be a flash for the DME to address this issue. Anyone KNOW about the flash for sure? He's in California, and I'm in NJ, so I can't ask him to run the car on the diagnostics tool until July when I'm out there. What I'm looking for: - Anyone have the fuel injection pressure leak-down spec's? I could invest in a fuel pressure gage and check how long it takes to have the system bleed down pressure. - Anyone else experiencing this? (In the BMW world where I came from - there is a very common problem every spring where certain models start becoming 2nd-crank starters. It seems related to the seasonal change in fuel formulation from winter to summer fuel. It has been posited by BMW that bad check valves in the fuel pumps cause this - but on my now departed '02 M3 - it continued doing this seasonally for several years after having the pumps replaced under warranty.) - Anyone with firsthand knowledge/experience with the same problem, who has managed to resolve it, and how it was resolved. I'm giving strong consideration to buying a DuraMetric so I can watch what is going on as far as fuel-pump activation, and temperature sensors, and see if there are any non-OBD-II codes stashed away in any of the engine management modules. Anyone - Buhler? TIA!

Just a quick update.. this changer had a date of 06/07 for manufacturing date.. and happily for me - it reads MP3 disks just fine. Which is cool since you can fit about 3x as much on an MP3 disk as a plain CD (you lose a bit of fidelity, but IMHO - not enough to matter in a car environment.)

SunCoast has found it, and ordered it. None in stock, but they expect they can ship it out next Tuesday. $16 + $10/shipping.

After removing the coupler (actually feed-through) I was using my Mag light, and noticed whenever the light hit the end of the exposed fibers - one of them lit up.

Brit6 - thanks. I usually do read the manual, but in this case - I was playing late at night, so I didn't, and this AM I had to drive to work. Looks like disk selection can be done with the number pad (press a number 1-6 and hold for > 3 seconds..) That's great info and makes it lots safer to use. I also found out there are more then one bank of memory positions for AM and FM - 3 each! (BMW also has 3..) Thanks, and good luck with your installation.

ABSOLUTELY a PITA. Porsche could have made it simple by just making the opening in the panel a bit larger on the left side... especially for something that was a commonly installed by dealer at the time of sale device. And imagine, if they made the cables/fiber long enough so you could plug it in without contortions and blind-feeling-around, and.. and.. had locking tabs to allow it to snap into the bracket. Nah.. never happen. Happily - it worked great going into work today.. but the PCM interface for it is rather difficult. The <- -> buttons will jump tracks on whatever CD is playing, but so far - I haven't found the same functionality for swapping disks. Am I missing something here? I found I have to go into the AUDIO menu, then scroll to SELECT DISK, press the knob, then scroll to the disk I want, and press the knob again. To say this might be distracting at speed is a great understatement. You should be able to do this with buttons alone. What did I miss? FWIW: BMW's E39/5-series interface is better done. You can select what disk you want with the 1-6 "memory" (used for stored radio stations) buttons, then skip to tracks by using the <-> button (which has an "M" for manual button in the middle - which allows scanning the current track.) And you can also do this from the steering wheel. No need to move eyes off the road.

I can report it IS plug and play, after about 2.5 hours of work installing it. It is never coming out. It's there forever (at least as long as I own the thing..) More info on the job (which is a royal PITA) at: http://www.renntech....dpost__p__22025

Bringing an old thread back to life.. Well - I did it without removing the inside trim panel. Dunno if it was easier then doing it their way. The Bose setup has the same bracket holding the Bose amp and the CD changer. The Bose amp is on the top, the CD changer on the bottom. Unfortunately - it is partially behind some of that trim panel, so it's not a slide-it-in sort of deal at ALL. I ended up having to put stuff behind the trim panel to work it out from the bracket, after removing the carpet/trim piece next to the spare-tire-floor, and two screws holding the bottom of the trim down. Removing the carpet/trim bit was fun - one 13mm bolt, then the chrome tie-down points - 2 big screws each to get them out. THEN you can pull it up. I also ended up bending the right side of the CD bracket to the right quite a bit, and removing the two bolts that hold the bracket in place on the right side, so I could move it up a bit. Even then - getting the changer in was a force fit. It finally went in, and I was able to get 3 screws into the right side of it after bending the bracket sort of back in place. The other end seems firm (can't wiggle it) - I have no idea what's holding it in place since I can't see it. The pre-wiring Porsche provided is NOT really long enough. The changer has to be partway into the opening for the fiber and wire to reach, meaning you're installing this blind. You do have to remove the coupler from the fiber plug (it just provided a feed-through path if a device wasn't there.) What's cute - if you shine a light into the fiber end, one of them lights up red. I guess it's trying to call home. The good news - changer worked fine. No coding needed. Filled a cartridge with disks and life is good. Overall - on a scale of 1-10 agony, it's about a 6 or so. Took about 2.5 hours. Can't say how long it would be if I did the offical way (which involves removing the seat bottom of the rear seat and all sorts of other fun stuff..)

Loren, Unfortunately - there are no stickers at all in the maintenance manual (I suspect it was replaced when the vehicle was CPO'd.)

The temptation in these sort of cases is to first shoot the messenger. IE - blame the sensor (or battery, etc.) The factory workshop manual gives a procedure to test the oil pressure. If it was my vehicle, I'd be doing that before driving the car anywhere. The cost of grenading the engine would certainly hugely outweight the costs involved in getting the vehicle flatbedded to a dealer to have the test done. At best - yes - you can certainly hope the messenger deserves shooting, at worst is ignoring it and hoping it doesn't happen again only to find that you've destroyed the engine by so doing.

With great enthusiasm I snuck out into the parking lot.. and opened the tailgate, lifted up the floor cover - to find 1/2 of the option sticker there. The important part - wasn't there. It's almost like someone doesn't want me ordering the touch-up paint..

Ah - OK. Understood - in the manuals it's rather confusing as to what the installations require. From what you said - it becomes clearer. I was probably reading the changer install for Cayenne's without the Bose system, and I guess in those since you don't have the amp connected via an optical cable, you must run a cable all the way back to the PCM. I didn't bother following where the optical cable I found went to - since it did have the ends I expected - but it very well could be one that Y's off the Bose amp. Pricey little devil (and what car manufacturer decides to use an optical cable system for audio/device communications? That's sorta pushing the envelope for not a lot of good reason.. it isn't like all that can't be done with a simple wire based network buss. I guess they were trying for EMI immunity in case of??)

Price isn't the only thing - the installation requires rebuilding the Cayenne around the cable suspended in air.. (just sorta kidding, but not a lot - I was reading the workshop manual about it..) It goes all the way from up front, along under the sills, and the carpeting and.. on and on.. You might take a closer look. Mine wasn't immediately obvious until I waved my hand around in that compartment and found it dangling there (nicely wrapped in some foam to protect it. Two orange wires/fibers going into a plastic connector like is shown in the manuals..) I used my CSI flashlight (a MagLight for those who watch the CSI series and wonder why they never turn the room lights on..) Wouldn't have found it without that.

AH-HA! And no where was this info shown.. on any of the pics I've seen of where the option/color sticker could be found. I'll go out to the parking lot at lunchtime and eyeball it! THANKS MUCH! How cool is this forum eh?

Loren, I suspect not. ALL the different colors of the "Titanium Edition" (aka "Let's slap some lipstick on this pig and see if we can sell it.." edition) - had certain body parts painted a darkish gray metallic - called "Titanium Metallic" (including the wheel spokes - which is pretty cool - two toned wheels..)

Hi Loren, Problem is - the option sticker isn't obvious to me.. :) The illustrations I've seen have shown it under the hood, and there is nothing to be found there.. Nor could I find it on the driver's door frame (other illustrations show it there..) The "Iceland Silver Metallic" was one of the four standard colors the "Titanium Edition" (lets get rid of some of these things package) had. The others were a black, a red and blue. Here is the press release from late '06: http://press.porsche.com/news/release.php?id=318 " “Iceland Silver Metallic” is a classic light silver tinged with cool blue..." - unfortunately - the press release doesn't give the color code. :angry:

Cool! Can't wait to get it!

Loren, Thanks. If I look up the car on the Porsche VIN lookup - it doesn't list the color - just the Titanium package. On SunCoast's site - I found the only listing for Iceland Metallic - as 911.095.933.20 B5S - and apparently the B5S is the color code, but it won't come up in PET, or on any website except SunCoast's.. SunCoast lists it as: COLOR: TitaniumEd91109593320b5s If you go to this page: http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/caytouch.html - you can find it under "Iceland Silver Metallic" - but when I went to order it - shipping was as much as the product, plus I like to try to support my local dealer if the difference isn't silly $$$.