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deilenberger

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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. Just as a followup. It's gotten worse. It loses vacuum overnight now. I've added a second check-valve in series with the first - no improvement. I replaced the grommet that the vacuum pipe enters the vacuum booster through, no improvement. Looks like I'm looking at replacing the booster itself. Used there are a bunch of these on ebay really cheap, meaning they don't normally go bad. I'm undecided against used or new. Used - maybe $125. New - $500. Labor the same on both of them.
  2. There were some kits sold back when this was endemic that were made up by a vendor, who didn't use all Porsche parts - and that coupling was known to leak. I forget what company it was... but that's a known leak spot with the aftermarket kit. I believe it will require R&R of the upper pipes to fix. I vaguely seem to recall some people unbolting and lifting the cover for the thermostat housing (where the 3 pipes go into the front of the engine) up to replace that coupling, that avoids having to pull the 3 pipe assembly out of the housing cover and replacing those O rings sealing it in. Since you have to replace at least the clamps on the rear rubber pipes to the aluminum, your situation may be different.
  3. A fairly recent problem (amongst other problems) I'm experiencing with my '11 CTT. The vacuum that provides the power-brake boost disappears if the car is left sitting for 24-48 hours. This makes it difficult to depress the brake pedal far enough to engage the start-enable switch, so starting becomes an issue. I had a shop look at it - and they had an "educated guess" diagnosis - that there is a check valve in one of the hoses between the camshaft-driven vacuum pump, and the brake booster. their thought is the check valve is leaking. It appears the check valve is part of the hose, so the entire hose (which runs through the cowl area) has to be replaced. In looking at parts diagrams - there are apparently 2 hoses - hooked up in series, and it isn't clear which one has a check valve. There are variations on the hoses - a "plain" one, and one with a fitting for a vacuum sensor of some sorts. I don't know which one I have. The shop did a smoke test of the line and found nothing amiss, but the smoke test wouldn't show a leaking check valve. The other possibility is the actual booster is failing, or the simple (and cheap) grommet the hose goes through into the booster is going bad. Anyone had this issue? Is so - the fix was?
  4. SO - you try to do something nice, like have my '11 CTT with 106,000 miles on it detailed. Guy did a great job EXCEPT he sprayed down the engine compartment with a pressure washer. I didn't spot that until he was done doing it. When I picked it up the steering felt funny - like there was no assist. I guess there was some since I suspect it's about undriveable without the assist. No error messages on the dash, but scanning it with my Foxwell NT530 turned up an error code along the lines of "Failsafe Steering Engaged".. I cleared that code and the steering returned to normal, very light and easy at slow speeds, becoming stiffer as speed increased. So I figured it was just a one time thing. The car was OK for several days, but in nice weather it often sits for a week or more in the driveway (I'm using the Boxster with the top down). Last night - bad weather so the Boxster stayed in the garage and the Cayenne was called into duty.. and again - the assist wasn't what I expected it to be. I haven't hooked up the diagnostics box yet, maybe get to that this afternoon. I'm thinking it's probably a soaked connector somewhere that's dropping electrical power or a signal that regulates the steering rack assist. Anyone else had this issue? Any pointers would be a nice thing. Thanks!
  5. Had exactly the same symptoms on my '11 CTT - except cylinder 1 didn't throw an error code for some reason. 2, 3 and 4 did. Also some O2 sensor codes on bank-1. Also intermittent rough idle, which eventually became all-the-time rough idle. Fix was a new valve "lift" solenoid. IMPORTANT - this IS different from the valve timing solenoid (located under the valve cover at the front of the head) - this one is recessed into the rear of the head. It is reachable by R&R of the vacuum pump (turbo) - or I've heard from underneath. About 3 hours labor, valve from Porsche is around $200, but if you're willing to risk it - there is aftermarket for around $60. Total cost for the job from a very well regarded independent shop - around $600.
  6. You might try googling for it. Porsche themselves used to have a spot on their website with owner's manuals for download. They were free and I think a 2011 might be new enough to be there.
  7. The DME is likely needed to run the starter motor. I wouldn't be concerned about power if the coils are disconnected. Most electronic ignition systems use a constant + feed to the coil, switching the ground to complete the circuit. That means there is no electronic pulse going to the coil connectors when the coil is fired, so disconnecting them should be quite safe. You can expect to have a bunch of stored error codes when you're done, but they should clear just fine if you have even a basic OBD-II tool. BTW - you posted this in the convertible top troubleshooting forum, which might account for the lack of replies (besides the generally ghost-town status of this forum.)
  8. Did you use a Porsche water pump? It sounds like a loose impeller or otherwise failed water pump. Able to circulate enough coolant when idling, but not enough when under load. Thermostats generally (not aways but usually) fail open. And how are you reading the coolant temperature? Hopefully not by the heavily buffered coolant temperature gauge - that's about as useful as an overheat-idiot light. If it reads hot something is really wrong.
  9. There are some parts available now for the PDK transmissions and there are a few vendors working on them (primarily for race cars). A good source of info is a longish thread on rebuilding them found at Rennlist: Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 997 Forum - Guide to Repairing a PDK Transmission - Introduction: This post documents what I've learned regarding PDK internals, parts prone to failure, access to those parts, where to get replacements, and generally how to fix a failed PDK yourself. After ten years in service...
  10. Yes. You may have to go into the PCM to turn it on - but I doubt it - if there is something there now that works, what you plug into that jack should also work.
  11. It appears the seal is held in place by a T shaped section that fits into a groove in the top frame. Can the seal be worked back in place? I'm sure replacements can be purchased.. it appears that your seals have experienced some significant wear.
  12. You mentioned the car was running and driving before you started working on it.. and that begs a few questions: How long have you owned it? How many miles? Has it always had an engine warning light on since you've owned it? How do you know the actuators were on the wrong banks? Do the actuators have different PN's? Can you point me to an on-line diagram that shows the "actuators" - since none of the on-line parts diagrams seem to refer to anything like that.
  13. Does the temperature sensor and side marker light use similar connectors? (Won't be the first time with Porsche..)
  14. Removing the battery negative is always a good idea. The seats have airbags in them, so - good precaution. What you don't want to do is turn on the ignition, or even have the key in the ignition when the connectors to the seat are disconnected. That would likely cause an airbag fault error which might require a diagnostics tool to reset it when you reconnect. Disconnecting the battery will avoid all that. Good luck! Let us know how it works out!
  15. I see you posted the same basic message over on Rennlist - my answers wouldn't change so I didn't bother replying. You did add one question on Rennlist - the answer is - the "preamp stage" is in the radio/PCM itself. You have a dead amplifier. It drowned. It's kaput. Nailed to the perch so to speak.. it's an ex-amplifier. You need a replacement. Electronics never does well submersed in water.
  16. 1. Yes 2. Replace with a working one 3. Probably not 4. Probably. Not hard to do - 4 bolts one in each corner. They're external torx so you need "e-torx drivers" (they're a torx socket) 5. Porsche for a lot of $$. Possibly a wrecking yard specializing in Porsche.
  17. Ah - here is the answer to my question - yes - it is available for a manual - but unless you have active suspension it might be much cheaper to get the sprint-booster. Suncoast Porsche Parts & Accessories Porsche Sport Mode Software - 997 & 987 WWW.SUNCOASTPARTS.COM
  18. Does Sport button even exist for a manual transmission car? On PDK cars it is - and SPORT is great, SPORT-PLUS is AMAZING. Totally changes the behavior of the car - it not only changes throttle response (which could be done with a "Booster" for a lot less $$$), it changes the shifting of the PDK. "SPORT" setting with my Sprint Booster set to 2 makes for a really responsive lively car, responds with enthusiasm to every input I give it. Tonight I went for a top-down ride (50F, had on earmuffs and the heated seat) and I finally tried SPORT PLUS. I didn't change the settings on the Sprint BOOSTER - still set at "2".. the combination is pretty much magic on a nice twisty road with good pavement, decent sight-lines, and one I know like the back of my hand. The transmission kept the engine between 4K and about 7.2K, which sounds amazing with the top down and a Fister exhaust. It also feels amazing, very responsive, would go wherever I looked without a second thought and kept asking for MORE... when I went past the local LEO station at a bit less than 2x the speed limit, I used the wheel-buttons to upshift to 3rd (it was still in 2nd). It responded instantly, as I slowed to almost legal cruising speed it wanted to go back to 2nd so I had to take it out of PLUS mode and just be happy with SPORT. This could be addicting. It really had me grinning, and it's been a while since a car inspired that in me - it usually takes a motorcycle to do that. So the question is - is there a sport button for manual shift, and if so - what does it change? And if so - is there a sport-plus? Sport Plus and PDK let you do things like launches.. I can't see where that would do anything on a manual transmission car except perhaps speed up the throttle response.
  19. Anyone have a guide? Somewhere I did find a list of lubricants Porsche suggests, but I haven't found anything about where to apply them. My top works fine, I'd like to keep it that way.
  20. Having recently shopped for, and purchased a 53rd childhood vehicle (I have a list somewhere of the cars I've owned in 73 years.. and motorcycles and boats - it's never too late to have a happy childhood..) I think you're pretty much on the money. I purchased a '09 Boxster "Base" with PDK (and a number of other performance options the last owner had added) with about 54k miles on it, for $21k. Needed new tires - which I'd factored into the dickering. Other than tires - it's in excellent condition. I actually preferred the base model for 2 reasons (1) It rev's more. The transmission tuning lets the engine rev more than the 3.2L engine ones, and I like hearing engines sing (2) no direct injection. Don't need the problems with carbon'd up valves or high-pressure-fuel-pumps. Have that on my '11 Cayenne turbo and really not a big fan of it. Plus the S models go for about $4-5k more. Had to be an '09 or newer - didn't need potential engine problems of the earlier ones and I wanted PDK (live in a summer tourist area - NJ shore - and driving becomes a stop/go proposition for 2 summer months.. stick is no fun, and I have nothing at all to prove in that regard.) BTW - not sure what you mean by "overhead airbag" - the Boxster has 4 airbags. One in steering wheel, one in dash in front of passenger, and one each in the doors. I don't think there was a difference in 2010.. It is a great fun car. The turning ability of it is amazing, yet it's stable at speed. Engine sings, PDK does it's thing and it's delightful with the top down. Rear visibility is iffy with the top up, but a backup camera I added took care of that (has an aftermarket radio/cd/dvd/ipod/aux/mp3/GPS in it.. which has a backup camera input.) Live while you're alive.. oh - it might be possible to do a coast-2-coast drive in it, but it is a rather "firm" ride, might become tiresome after days of lots of hours/miles. I've done that drive about 15 times now, 4 times by motorcycle. Couldn't do it with the Boxster - wife and luggage wouldn't fit. The Cayenne turbo has done a number of those trips through.
  21. This can be self-answered by spending a bit of time at a parts website comparing part numbers..
  22. You may want to look at some of the parts diagrams available at on-line dealers, or even download the parts catalog for your car from Porsche (it's free!) - parts catalogs like to use exploded views - those views include everything in the area, so you'll have some idea of how much you have to remove in order to get to the dash to remove it. AFAIK - most manufacturers install the dash as a unit - everything in it - wiring the whole deal - and it gets bolted into the shell. While it might be possible to remove it that way, one person working on their own might find it really difficult to do, especially since the steering has been installed and the seats will be in the way. Good luck!
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