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deilenberger

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Posts posted by deilenberger

  1. On 7/7/2017 at 6:18 PM, Chander said:

    I see a 2011 Boxster S with PDK, Sport chrono, for about 27k with 84k miles on it. I live in Chicago, the car is in Winston Salem NC. Is there a lister or a reputable shop in Winston NC that can help me out by checking out the car? Is that even advisable?

     

    Using a well regarded shop is probably the safest thing. Long story short:  I was enamored of BMW M-Coupes, the original 325HP "clown shoe" - and decided I needed one again (I'd owned one new when they first came out and BMW couldn't give them away - a $199/month lease!) - I found one on line in Boston. I live in NJ.  I probably should have just gotten in the car and gone to look at it, but I was still working at the time, and it would have made for a very long day, or an overnight (expensive) stay.  I had a group of BMW enthusiasts (the E39 Yahoo group - still exists) to ask..  one who I'd met once at Lime Rock offered to look at it for me.  The seller brought the car over to my friends office at lunch time, and they went out for a ride in it. My friend was very enthusiastic about it - said it ran wonderfully.

     

    It did run wonderfully - but he missed something vital. It was raining when he looked the car over, so the light was dull, he was juggling an umbrella, and the car surface had rain drops hitting it.  What he missed were two things:  First was the hood had been painted - not particularly well. It was painted to correct what I assume was a fender-bender+ sort of accident, not only was the hood reworked (still had original VIN tags on it though) - it was slightly yellow compared to the rest of the car.  Also - one of the frame horns inside had been cut off and a replacement section welded on.  It was very well done - not too obvious except for the weld bead going around it where there shouldn't be any.  Second - the gray light, rain drops hitting - completely obscured the roof of the car. The car had obviously been in a hail storm at some point. And there were numerous pings from hailstones in the roof.

     

    I actually liked the car because it really DID run and drive well. Kept it about 6 years and then traded it in on my current Cayenne (along with my old Cayenne). I figure I got what I paid for it, so the 20,000 miles I put on it (the last few years it was mostly a garage queen) were basically free.. but what I missed was the rapid appreciation in value of M-Coupes. The same coupe without the two flaws (accident and hailstones) would have been worth about $20,000 more than I got for it. It was still low miles (around 48k) and still really ran well.

     

    So that's my warning message - unless you know the real capabilities of whoever is going to look the car over - I'd stick with a pro.  I did have a friend look at a 2011 Cayman for me before I bought the Boxster - but this friend is a professional automotive engineer with a specialty of testifying in court cases involving car wrecks where there may have been an equipment failure. His report was exactly what I expected, detailed and clear, with a good description of how it drove. I would have bought that one, but it was about $4,000 over my budget. 

    m_coupeb.jpg

  2. Would I be correct in assuming you had to teach the new motor the end positions of travel of the window (so it can do 1 touch up and down)?  That's where you press the up button and hold it when the window is all the way up (I think you hold it for 15 seconds or so) and then you do the same for down.

     

    Had you tried the procedure before replacing the motor? IE - done the teaching to the old motor?  The passenger's side only does auto-close if the window is more than 50% closed already (according to the Porsche manual) - but if it somehow lost calibration for the actual fully closed position, it might behave as you described.  If the new motor was calibrated (it works by measuring the current draw from the motor - when it's stalled - fully up or down the current draw increases and that's what's remembered to set the position) - when you installed it it would then obviously work fine and fully close when the door was closed.

     

    The only reason I'm asking is I have seen instances where a fault is cured by replacing a part - where the part wasn't defective, but the replacement of the part fixed something else when it was being done.  I'd suggest before buying a new motor - if people come across this - that they try first before replacing anything - try to teach the motor where the limits for up and down are. If that fails - then I'd be looking at the motor.

  3. The manifold pressure sensor is a WAY cheap part if you search on the Bosch number that's on it. It's used on everything including Chebby's.. you should find more auto parts stores stock it. I'd try a new one and reset the fault code again.

     

    As far as another forum - I might suggest rennlist.com - it has an active Cayenne forum (I moderate there..)

  4. The best way to make this happen - is what I did with the Variocam bolts.

     

    I went through the NHTSA website data entry process and created a description of exactly the steps needed to enter a complaint in a uniform manner. That was then posted on a number of Cayenne websites. NHTSA uses data crunching to look for problem areas. If people report a particular problem but list it in different categories on the NHTSA database - the mass of complaints won't pop to the top - it's diffused.  If I had one that failed - I'd enter the data and do some screen captures - easy enough to make up a DIY on how to report the problem...   the other thing that may diffuse the complaints is that the failures happen over ALL years of the 958 Cayennes, and all the gas engined ones. 

     

    With the Variocam problem - it was fairly simple, it was isolated to 2011 V8 engines (with a very few 2010 and 2012 engines - but those were in the single digits..)

     

    There is quite a bit more transfer case info on RennList..

     

    https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011-2018/986001-transfer-case.html - longish thread, with some DIY info in it and discussions on rebuilding DIY.

     

    https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011-2018/1101700-transfer-case-stats-survey-please-particpate.html - which is a link to a survey I created to try to gather some info on when/how the failures occurred, and some idea of the actual percentage of failures being observed.  Right now from 70 entries in the survey, over 55% have experienced failures, but that isn't a hard/fast number since people who have problems have more of an interest in talking about it..  Porsche so far has paid for close to 50% of the replacements, which to me is impressive, I think they're trying to forestall another Variocam like recall. 

     

    Please do take the time to fill out the survey if you haven't already. When it gets to 100 entries I'll close it and make the data publically available.

  5. Intake Manifold.. appears to be the same for all normally aspirated V8's - and I didn't know of any valving in the intakes. So - I went poking around the web, and apparently there is some device used for some function on the intake manifold of normally-aspirated 4.8L V8 engines:  https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/958C/POR_958C_FULINT_pg2.htm  (I found several other references to it - but no explanation of what it does or how it fits into things..)  So I poked around on the factory service manual, and found a reference to it. It mounts on the back of the manifold.  Purpose unknown, but it might be to add length to the intake runners based on ?  

     

    I'll try attaching a screen-capture.. 

     

     

    Clipboard02.jpg

     

    Since you can buy that as a separate part - it might be more economical than buying an entire intake manifold. I think the first thing I'd be looking at is the two hoses. It would appear #1 might well be a vacuum hose since the round part on #6 looks a lot like a vacuum actuator.  And that seems to be moving the rod #9 that connects to the two bell-cranks (#5 & #8) that look as if they might turn something in the manifold - like maybe some butterfly valving to change intake lengths.

     

    FWIW - the turbo doesn't seem to have any of this - I would guess because it just pushes air under pressure through the intake, rather than relying on engine vacuum to pull the air through.

  6. That depends on the year/model.

     

    Just a FWIW - if it's a turbo (your S obviously isn't) - that's not it.

     

    On the 958 turbo V8 - it's located ahead of the intake throttle body in the Y tube leading to the intake.  It's the device in the red box in the attached photo. It's lots of $$$ from Porsche, but if you search on the Bosch PN - you'll find it was used for everything from Chevy turbo engines to Rolls Royce turbo engines.. and the price can be as little as $18 with just a bit of searching (and your nearby NAPA store if you're in the US probably has one in stock.)  If you're going to replace the one in the parts diagram - might be worth Googling the Bosch PN that is likely on it. It might be much cheaper than you might think.

     

    Turbo MAP (Manifold Air Pressure sensor):

     

    Manifold Pressure Sensor.jpg

  7. On 9/8/2018 at 8:26 PM, Miscedano said:

    Does anyone know if there are adapters that can use the rear camera port already in the vehicle when I install an aftermarket rear camera? 06 Porsche Cayenne Base


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    You've posted this in a thread in a forum for a completely different model than you have. Chances are - people here won't know.  I'd suggest reposting it over in:  https://www.renntech.org/forums/forum/31-9pa-9pa1-cayenne-cayenne-s-cayenne-turbo-cayenne-turbo-s/

     

    That forum is where the question belongs - and searching it for rear-view camera posts might also be productive.

  8. There should be no valve to the inside of the cabin. The rubber drain tube mounts to the drain and there is a tab that helps pull it on. Once you remove the bastard clamp on it - you may be tempted to throw it away (the clamp), I wouldn't discourage you from doing this. It's only there to keep people from sticking their toes up under the panel under the dash and pushing it free. My '11 has the clamp, my '06 did not - and it never came loose.

     

    What I'd suggest for the drain hose - disconnect it from the HVAC box (with a broiler pan under it to catch the quart or so of water that's going to pour out) - then give it a big-*** (tech term) tug inwards toward the cabin. It will pop out of the firewall. It can then be really cleaned and you can cut off the flapper on the end of it that is the cause of the thing plugging up to begin with. Plan on replacing the cabin filter - the bottom 2" of it will be water soaked. Most big-box car parts stores carry a suitable replacement, the brand isn't critical - fit is.  There are write-ups on doing this whole job with pics over on the Cayenne DIY forum at rennlist.

  9. You may want to checkout: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1079182-958-gts-transfer-case-rebuild-wish-me-luck.html#post15148042

    and: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1080636-transfer-case-teardown-pictures.html

     

    We're (Rennlist) hoping for a good DIY with photos. There is another chap there doing his case and he's promised to video it. I would imagine any competent shop would be able to handle it. The failure really appears to be caused by rust in the clutch pack, giving some credence to Porsche's modification of the case vent.. and to change the oil at semi-regular intervals (pretty much settled at 20,000 miles for mine.. the oil is cheap. It's easy to do.)

     

    Although this chap did change the chain - he didn't offer photos of the new vs old chain side by side to see if there is any significant stretch.. so I'd be less concerned with that. What it does show is the transfer case is not undersized - there appears to be no notching of the clutch pack teeth or housing which could be expected if it was undersized.

    • Upvote 1
  10. Fan control overcurrent appears to be a very commonly reported fault - without a clear cause. It should indicate that the fan drew too much current making the electronic protection system for it stop it - but I've never heard of that actually happening. I get that error message almost every time I scan my '11 Turbo... and the fan works fine. From listening to the system, under certain conditions (more common when it's cold out) when on vehicle startup I can hear the fan start, then hear it bog down a bit and the airflow drop as some flaps reposition themselves in the HVAC box. Only takes a few seconds to happen - and that slowdown may be due to blocked airflow by the flaps that then clears up when they get to the desired position. The slowdown has the possibility to cause this sort of error message IMHO.

  11. I assume these are the HID smart lights on a turbo.. the body control modules probably tell the lights the height of the suspension. The smart lights (I forget Porshe's name for them..) also move when you're turning corners.

     

    Have you tried clearing the codes to see if they reoccur? That's always the first step in Cayenne troubleshooting. Something as trivial as a low battery voltage condition can cause modules to throw codes.  If they do reoccur - it's time to look at the wiring bundles that live under the front footwells carpeting. Entirely possible that some water intrusion has happened sometime along the way and caused bad connections on splices in those bundles. Luckily - it's fairly easy to remedy.. just a PITA.

  12. Wonder how much the cams were off?  If the cams are far enough off valves will get bent.. there is valve to valve collision. There isn't valve to piston collision on the turbo due to the clearance being greater for the lower compression on the turbo engine.  BTDT, ended up with 2 rebuilt heads with about 12 valves replaced..  and all the valves removed, cleaned and checked.

  13. That type of clip on a Cayenne - usually the metal part of it is mounted into the recess it goes into - then the plastic stab is pushed into it. Remove the metal bits - put them up in the mount where they belong - and then push the light assembly up as far as it goes.

     

    BTW - what camera setup did you use?  And I'd be interested in seeing a video from it to see what the quality is..

  14. 12 hours ago, Toolbox said:

    Strange because use on this forum and others the most common problem is the transfer case servo motor failing on all cayenne’s from the 955/957 and 958.

     

    1

    Can you point me to some threads where the transfer case servo motor fails?  I've been keeping track of the failures - and it appears to me that the most common problem on the 958 transfer case (which is entirely different from the 2-speed case used on the 955/597) is the internal clutch deteriorating.  But if you've seen other than that - please point me to it..

     

    BTW - in this thread - yours is the first mention of the stepper motor, and in:

    https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/986001-transfer-case.html

    and

    https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-958/287782-2011-cayenne-transfer-case-replaced.html

    I can't recall a single mention of a failed stepper motor.

     

    This thread specifically addresses what fails:

    https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1035471-transfer-case-what-actually-fails-2.html

    And has a photo of a chunk of one of the clutch friction plates someone found in their oil when they drained it..

  15. Ashish,

     

    Again - I wouldn't panic over 10-20cc spillage. The design of the case is such that 800CC would provide adequate oil to lubricate it. The only difference might be that a smaller than 850CC oil fill may result in it warming up quicker than normal. I wouldn't be concerned about it a lot, but since I know you, like I am likely an OCD Porsche owner - buy another bottle and use some sort of filler to get the oil to the level of the bottom of the threads on the filler opening.  That's the "official" level - which even 850CC's doesn't quite reach.

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