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Everything posted by csory

  1. We're planning to move from Hungary to VA permanently (at least for a while...) How tough it would be to "naturalize" my custom-built 987S (upgraded with a 997 engine and racing exhaust) in the US? The car is "street legal" in Europe with all the necessary documents (regarding emissions, new engine etc) from Germany where the engine swap was made. I know that I could use it for a short while with a Hungarian license plate but I need a long-term solution... TIA!
  2. Hi Secuuda, No offense - but there is no such tire. Good grip on dry+wet+snow, comfortable, long lasting - and hi-performance sports rating... Choose one of these. I guess that if you really want to use the Box as it was meant then you need 2 sets of tires: one for summer (probably a wet-tire) and another one for winter (soft-compound silica snow tire). I would even consider a third one for track only (semi-slick). /OT: As my IT company's slogan says: "We will do a fast, low-cost and faultless job. But you choose only two of these..." :D :oT/
  3. Problem solved. Dealer replaced the whole ignition key module (I guess the switch went south). I let them know beforehand that the car was "slightly modified" (cough) but they told me that the engine / ECU replacement has nothing to do with a broken ignition key module - and fixed it under warranty. Very nice.
  4. I think the suspension is very good in it's stock form. If you want some more power (btw, is it a 2.7 or a 3.4?) you'll have to reach deep into your pocket. Engine and ECU swap are the best (and costliest) options I guess. Dropping in a 3.8 costs 18.5k EUR here and gives 370HP, or you may go the forced induction route as mentioned above...
  5. I guess this is rather a "feature" than a "bug". The AC logic does it's best to find the correct mixture of fresh air coming from all vents (it has to cope with the convertible cabin and it's unique airflow problems). Defroster (or windshield) vents are used to cool the windshield itself, thus reducing the radiation heat, and to give a more laminal airflow at the upper edge of the windshield while you drive top down. _Maybe_ that you can modify the software but I would not hold my breath.
  6. Thanks ToolPants! Will definitely give it a try Monday morning - and hope for the best. I'll look as dumb as I am :) Do you think it is worth to try to replace the switch as a DIY job or just leave it to the big boys? (Not a big deal on the 986 as I have found it in the DIY forum but no info on the 987...)
  7. Well, I bought the car as new in Nov 2005 with the 3.2 engine. It was later modified up to 3.6 displacement (not a simple bore job because of the nikasil liners). After a while got the engine blown, which was accepted as a warranty claim by the tuning company (TTP - very nice guys). Then they implanted a factory-new 997 3.6 engine and gone through all the hassle (original ECU could not handle valve lifting because only the MY07 3.4 engine has introduced VarioCam Plus on the Boxster). Had to write a specific ECU software to handle my car (new engine, old Box peripherials) but it is fine now. En
  8. Local Porsche dealer will not take a look before next monday... :( Been searching through the forums and came up with an idea: is it as easy to replace the switch in my 987 as it is in the 986 (and are the parts identical)? Sounds like a worthy try to replace the switch with a VAG part (Audi/VW).
  9. Hi Westcoaster, Tomorrow morning will give it a try. However, the warranty is already gone - guess what will they think when they hear the 997 engine purring in it :D Just to be precise: it was not a jumpstart, just the "battery-less open the front" via the designated fuse terminal. I _think_ that the emergency circuit is protected against reverse polarity (why would it turn on brake lights otherwise?) As for the metallic piece, dunno if the stealers have a "collecting" habit - but nothing special, a regular bike spoke or any hard wire would do the job...
  10. Thanks!!! :renntech: Tried - and worked (could remove the key). However, car still not fine. Symptoms: 1. Durametric keeps saying that "rear module failed to initialize" and "gateway error code: C112 display CAN". I guess this is not normal. (Also the AWS and PASM modules fail to initialize, but not sure if this is a bug or a feature...) 2. If I push in the key, I can hear the steering lock disengaging / engaging again when removing the key. However, once I switch Ignition to On key is stuck again (again need the metal pin to remove). 3. External temperature display keeps reading "-.
  11. Four days ago forgot the key in the ignition in my MY06 987S. Two days later tried to start the engine, just to find that the whole thing is totally dead. Opened the front hood via the "official" jumper cable method, removed battery (was down to 7V or so...) and recharged. Now battery back, car starts and runs fine - but can not remove the key. I can hear that the steering lock is not "kicking in" when turning the key CCW and the lock won't release the key itself. Dash lights remain on, as if the key would be always in "on" (not "ignition") position. Checked all fuses - are fine. Any ideas p
  12. P0107 (Manifold) Pressure sensor circuit low input - but will take a closer look in the Porsche-specific code table.
  13. Having a blown gasket in an engine with so few miles on the clock - sound pretty bad and pretty unusual. However, still a possibility. Are you sure that the coolant level was checked when the engine was totally cold (after an overnight rest), as it normally falls below min level while the engine is warm? Also, leaking coolant would leave easy-to-read evaporation marks (read, scale-like spots). Engine oil looks okay? (This much water getting into engine oil would definitely turn it into an opaque grayish substance.) Hope that it will turn out good for you...
  14. Can't see anything gone wrong here... Maybe I would pop the hood open again after - say - a few hundred miles and check if there are any pronounced leaks around breather hose connectors...
  15. Had a very similar experience - cleaned MAF, cleaned and checked throttle body, took the whole intake apart (looking for air leak), went in about 8 hours of fiddling and digging but no help. Finally disconnected both MAF and the butterfly and the car still responded to throttle - meaning a huge leak behind the throttle body. Yes, it was the breather hose from the oil separator to the intake manifold, had a slit on the bottom side which was closed until the engine vacuum "sucked it open"... :censored:
  16. Whoa! Helpful, short and precise. As always. Thanks! :renntech:
  17. Thanks for your reply. I was really aware that the stereo head unit is not an absolute necessity to drive the car :D , however, was not sure if disconnecting the CDR24 or the BOSE amp from the MOST and the CAN bus would / could cause self-diagnostic error codes and probably other concerns...
  18. Just been wondering: what happens if someone opts for a complete audio rebuild / reinstall. I mean, remove the factory (CDC24) head unit, amp, speakers, and put in some decent stuff. Will the missing CDC24 wreck the rest of the on-board electronics? (Heard nightmare stories from audio installer friends that they had to keep the OEM head unit connected, hidden behind the dash, because the car electronics refused to work without those...)
  19. You're right about the assymetry - how about molding the cast iron part all at once as one piece (hence the need for the "handles" to pour metal in / let air out of the sand mold), then slice it up, then use these one-per-bearing slices as the "core" for light alloy molding? :D Now would really like to hear the truth about these composite crankcases - but still love guessing :D :D :D I wonder if ToolPants or Loren could comment these pictures (especially about the scratch marks / cracks)?
  20. I have no idea about the molding process of the casing - but those two black stripes that protrude from the bearing area may also be "handles" used to position and hold the black/ish (porous iron / carbon-rich steel?) core while the aluminum/magnesium/silica being cast around it. In this case those breaks would really mean no harm to the engine. Meanwhile it is a little bit strange that those "impact marks" appear at the same place... Entirely speculation - but it will be soooo nice when you find out what happened and let me know that all my ideas were just... hmmm... bad guesses :D As for t
  21. Thanks for the picture repost, now I'm almost sure that those marks are not part of the manufacturing process. However, the parallel meandering "valleys" give me a hint of something really big went loose in there (at least the size of a dime, maybe a few coils from spring?!?!?!) Just my uneducated guesswork... Btw, the car looks marvelous, no wonder you fell in love with it :D And rest assured, there is no such thing as engine beyond repair - maybe some parts will have to be replaced, but you'll have it purring on the road soon...
  22. Btw, could you take a picture of those marks from right angle, possibly with macro setting, but lighting kept at a low sweeping angle? Some of us here with some machining/milling experience could have a bet if those are finishing moves from the manufacturing process or impact humps because of a loose part running amok inside your engine...
  23. The symptoms - a little bit more in detail - were: 1. Noticeable uneven idle, practically a bad feelingof a "missing heartbeat" on the wheel 2. A day later it could be seen a passenger seat back shaking while at idle 3. Meanwhile car developed an "idle dropping behavior" - coasting from high RPM, depressing clutch, idle fell down to 400ish and the car either stalled (a few times) or not, idle caught up 4. Idle turned to "unacceptable", better when engine cold (but still huffing and puffing), and a very specific "tramm...tramm...tramm...tramm..." instead of the nice "dumdumdumdumdumdum"
  24. Just a "far shot" from my yesterday experience with similar problem... - the car is a MY06 987 with a 3.6 997 engine installed (!) - car developed very bad idle from noticeable shaking on the wheel to detonation and engine stall within 5 days and 500 miles (all started when weather turned cold) - CEL light kept coming on after a few minutes of idle, giving every code from 300 to 306 (random misfire and all cylinders misfire) - checked with generic OBD readers and later with Durametric, found that MAF reads way lower than it should be, while ignition timing going crazy between -4 and +1
  25. Have a rather strange problem with my car. (MY05 987S with a 3.6 engine implanted from a MY05 997). It idles very badly, shaking like running on 3 cyls. CEL code appears within a minute or so, always the same - misfire in all cylinders (0300-0306). Already tried what I could: spark plugs changed, coils checked, MAF sensor and TB (e-gas assembly) cleaned, ECU connections cleaned, etc... Still no joy. No other CEL codes but the misfire. Tail pipe analyzer showed excessive CH (unburnt fuel). Under heavy load it runs fine. Just checked with an OBD-II reader (Auterra Scantool) and found that MAF
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