Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

clarksongli

Members
  • Posts

    325
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by clarksongli

  1. So you can run pure water with a corrosion inhibitor.  this is very typical at the track and what I personally use in my track car.

     

    However the problem you describe doesn't sounds all that crazy.....how hot is it outside?  Remember idle is probably the worst scenario, Zero airflow over the radiator, lowest speed on the water pump.

     

    Mine will climb past center and then drops when the fans kick on.  My alternate method is to keep the A/C on.....which keeps the small fan running once about 180F......it then remains constant.  I do have about 80k on my waterpump though.

     

    Just another data point, but I'm thinking you could just be experiencing normal operation at idle.  Have you checked to see if your rad fans are even turning on?

  2. So the first thing.  Typically the display that says the rear hatch is open is generally for the GLASS portion......this is a known problem where the microswitch.  Typically people either unplug the switch, or adjust the striker on the glass portion.

     

    Now to your problem.  I'd plug everything back in, take it for a quick spin, turn the car off and lock it.  THEN unlock it like normal and try the handle.  If nothing, then crawl in and see if you can actuate it by pushing right.  I've had situations where things "lock out."  a good example is unlocking just the truck prevents me from unlocking any doors until I close the lid and then press the unlock for all doors.

  3. Agreed with JFP in that I'm always a little concerned with generic scanners.  they give really vague and usually wrong info haha.

     

    But anyways, my guess is either your seats have not received the "airbag resistance" fix, or they have and the connections are a little loose.  The airbag reset is stored in the NVM so simply removing power will not reset the light.

     

    You will need a durametric for that.  Underneath each front seat you should see the following.  I could see mine from the rear with a mirror.  if you have only the connector and no splice then you need to get that recall done(dealer should do it for free).  if you see the splice, then it means the connection isn't 100%.  either solder them, or you can try recrimping them.  Reset the airbag and see if it comes back

     

    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads17/955_airbag_conn_zoom_free1271277240.jpg

  4. Welcome.  I have an '04 turbo.....I have the same unit in my car.  Sadly you don't have the newer PCM.

     

    Is the nav not working at all?  personally I played with the idea so I could get the same luxuries.....ultimately I decided not to.  But my navigation is working.

     

    my thought is leave it alone until it breaks.  It's an older car, but very advanced for the year it was built.  The aftermarket options you have, while offer more features, I feel detract from the unified functionality of the dash and it will be obvious you have shoved an aftermarket unit into a Porsche.

     

    When people ask where is the Bluetooth I simply reply my CTT is about the driving experience, not about talking on my phone or how many cup holders I have.

  5. Really just guesses at this point without any scans.....have you pulled any of the coil packs and plugs?

     

    Drive the car like normal for a while, then come home and pulls plugs and coils.....you can tell a lot about the engine based on the plug color and condition.  Inspect the packs and see if you have cracks in them.

     

    I don't recommend just arbitrarily replacing coils like Lewiswelller.....you could spend 400 bucks and still not know what the problem is, but as I mentioned, there is an easy was to diagnosis a whole host of issues with just the plugs.

  6. So they do sell exhaust cements and RTVs.  It is normal for small leaks to be at each joint (you will see signs of condensation dripping), but you shouldn't have any large leaks (holes).

     

    If you are concerned with various small leaks at the butt joint clamps you can use the cements or RTVs.....if you have holes or the leak is at the flanges, you should replace the damaged section or gasket.

     

    Here is an example of the cement you can find online:

    https://www.amazon.com/Dynomax-35958-Hardware-Muffler-Cement/dp/B000CQHVLI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219439&sr=8-5&keywords=exhaust+sealant

  7. lewisweller1982, Toyota type IV ATF is only for the Transmission, the transfer case takes Esso LT71141 spec. Some of the better Full synthetics meet both but the cheaper synthetics and older conventional oils don't. I've heard Ravenol makes good fluids but I just looked at their ATF Type IV and it doesn't show on the website that it meets the Esso spec. It's only .75~.85 Liters so I would hit up Audi, VW, and Porsche to see who charges the least at the Touareg & Q7 have the same transmission & transfer case. The VAG (Audi & VW) stuff even comes in a .85liter bottle.

     

    Just FYI.....LT71141 is a ATF specification.  Long story short....the Transfer case takes ATF.

     

    I've been using type 4 for my ATF for many years now in both the transfer case and transmission.  That and in addition to the blackstone reports between the two fluids I feel more than comfortable.

     

    Recommended oils is always a personal subject.  pick a fluid that you are comfortable with.....if it's going to keep you up at night or worrying while driving long distances, just get the OEM stuff for piece of mind.....But I sleep very well at night haha.

  8. In a couple of weeks:

     

    1. Replace coils (all 8 were cracked when I replaced the plugs)
    2. Transmission Oil, filter, pan gasket, filter gasket, drain plug, pan bolts (All original Porsche parts, Toyota Type T-IV oil, would using RL D4 ATF be risky considering high miles and seals not being exposed to full synthetic oil?  Also, the transmission fluid and filter were never replaced, yes I know, a big mistake)
    3. Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir replacement (Original Porsche, with Pentosin CHF202, how much oil do I need?)
    4. Fuel filter replacement (Siemens VDO OEM)
    5. Torque Strut mount (original is completely worn out, replacing bushings from ECS)
    6. Hydraulic Engine mounts and transmission mount (Lemforder or OEM?)

    Any other recommendations?

     

    Thanks

     Is this a CS or CTT?  If it's a CTT you got the wrong plugs.  But anywho:

    1.  Yes replace all coils if they were cracked (mine went at 130k)

    2.  Type IV is what I always use.  It's super cheap, and if you look up my blackstone lab test, it's nearly identical (if not identical) to the Porsche fluid....same bottle and all.  I change mine probably more than most, but it keeps the transmission happy and I tow a lot.  I've done the flush 3 times before 130k.  Filter change only once though.

    3.  I sucked out the P/S fluid and put in CHF like you are thinking.....again no real reason, but figured it was a good idea.  I got a liter and that was more than enough for the reservoir.

    4.  I changed my fuel filter, but I wouldn't bother until your pump(s) go bad.....Sort of a pain, and in all reality US fuels are generally not contaminated.

    5.  Torque strut mount.....did mine as well.....helps with any low RPM vibrations

    6.  Didn't do my motor mounts.  again they aren't bad so no real reason to replace them.  it's not the easiest of jobs either.....

     

    What I didn't see mentioned......

     

    water pump, unless recently done

    Coolant pipes and Tees(if a CTT)

    Coolant Reservoir.....still haven't done mine but I have the reservoir at home.  they tend to bust at the seam

    Brake fluid.....I always fully flush my brakes.....we don't use Type 5 fluid.....so it tends to absorb moisture quickly.....always a good preventative measure

    Check your suspension bushings (lower control arms tend to get crunchy)  If you got movement or torn bushing's it might be a good time to get another set.  Mine are definitely worn and I can feel it under hard braking.

    Check to see if your valve cover gaskets are leaking?

  9. Curious to know who's got the "world record" haha.

     

    I just crossed 130k on my 04 CTT.  on my way to work one day and it starts stumbling.  Instantly i'm thinking coil packs, but it clears up as i'm coming home.

     

    Pull the codes, see a misfire cyl 7.  pull the pack, cracked.  pulled all of them, 7 of the 8 were also cracked.  Order 8 new ones.

     

    What's interesting is i had -02 revision packs, which i believe would have been original factory packs, or at least **** close.  130k is pretty good compared to some of the others i've heard about.

     

    What's also interesting is how quickly they fail.  i had just done plugs at 120k, and inspected all the packs.

    • Upvote 1
  10. i think you might have two separate issues that just happen to be happening at the same time.  I had nearly the same issues....

     

    So i had my coolant Tee's break so i had to drain a lot of the coolant to change.  Well i refilled and vacuum bled but was driving around and i kept losing coolant with no sign of where it was going.  At the same time i had a bit if a stumble and semi rough idle.  Instantly i thought the same thing as you.

     

    Long story short.  Even with the vacuum bleed, the system was still self bleeding, about 2 weeks after the coolant level stopped dropping.

     

    My stumbling was actually coil packs.  I had just checked them, but when i pulled a few to double check, they nearly all had split.  A new set of coils and it idles/drives like normal again.

     

    Do the hydrocarbon test, but pull some coilpacks and inspect.  you might be seeing the same thing i had.

  11. Well my 04 CS did not survive a collision and is a total loss.  I found a 2006 Turbo S I am interested in.  Big difference from the 04 CS.  It looks to be in pretty good condition and drives well.  Only 59k miles on it.  At some point the turbo was upgraded to the EVOLUTION MOTORSPORTS GT650/700 (TURBO S) KIT.  Should I be concerned about that?  It also will come with a lifetime powertrain warranty, and the coolant pipes are aluminum. Price is under KBB.  Anything I should look for besides the usual problems I know about on the 04?  Thanks.

    Personally i'd find something else.

     

    1st.  Lifetime powertrain may sound like a no brainer, but in all reality you don't typically hear of transmissions/axles/differentials just exploding.  There is a reason why companies offer lifetime powertrain.....because they can make money off of it.

     

    The real reason i'd steer clear is the upgraded turbo kit.  You now know power was important to the owner.  But look at the life of most CTTs.  Many reach a "tired" point where you hear about scoring, etc.  Now add bigger boost and turbos.  Turbos never extend the life of a motor....

     

    Also, most people who go for big power kits like that.....LOVE to goose the throttle.  You have no idea how this guy treated it, but you have a pretty good bet he didn't drive it like a 80 year old person.  I'm thinking cold engine/cold start but hitting the throttle to get those big turbos spooling.

     

    Finally....you live in a cold climate.  Cold starts is a much bigger concern IMO.  If this person didn't take the time to warm up the car etc.  your likelihood of the guy joy riding it cold is pretty good.

     

    You can never be 100% sure that a grandma didn't romp on a car, but you can almost always guarantee someone who spends the money on a turbo kit that they DO romp on it.

     

    my 2 cents.

  12. Last week I had to change my 2003 CS engine to 2006 CS engine, due to severe engine scoring in 5;6;7 cylinder. Everything now works fine, but no heating even when I turn up to HI. 

    Does anybody had this problem?

    no heat means one of to things:

     

    1.  coolant electric pump isnt working (turn the heat on with the fan on the lowest notch and see if you hear the electric pump running)

    2.  you have a big air bubble which stopping circulation (bleed the system...typically a vacuum bleeder will get things moving)

  13. For those looking to the aftermarket to say some $, stay with well known suspension component suppliers like TRW or Moog and you should be fine.  Quite often, these suppliers are also OEM to Porsche (TRW for one is).  But to jagman1's point, also check with board sponsor Sunset Porsche, and you just may be surprised at the prices you can get the actual Porsche parts for.

     

    Jeff I agree with you 100%  Typical known brands are piece of mind.  Bosch for starters, TRW and Moog for bushings, *** and Timken for bearings, etc.  What I've actually started to do is use the ".DE" websites to cross reference PNs.

     

    A good example is the main cooling fan.  If you look anywhere in the US, our front fan is unique to the Cayenne.  However, go to the german website.....the fan shows up in VW/Audi/Porsche Ford, etc.  A great resource for finding our parts for less money without sacrificing on the quality.

     

    Here is my one "EXCEPTION"  You have remember, in today's world, many things, regardless of "name", come from China or around there.  Manufacturing is cheap, and many companies move production, or portions of production to those areas.

     

    Some examples:  Most high end swiss watch internals, inverters for welders, nearly all circuit board and semiconductors.

    A Car example:  INA Hydraulic valve shims.  their main production facility is in China, while still retaining there "german" brand.  I personally use their lifters in my race motors, directly from China.  No issues, even under race environments.

     

    Bottom line, the internet is a wonderful place to do some research and find out what works well for your budget and piece of mind.

  14. Mine is a 2005 Cayenne Turbo.  The height for each wheel looks off now.

     

    So one thing folks need to remember.  The ride height control is based off of the upper control arm location.  Not the air bag directly.  An airbag replacement should not need a calibration.

     

    Where you get into trouble is if the bag exploded and damaged the sensor linkage arms.

     

    And as everyone has mentioned.....if you don't put it in service mode, the system will attempt to level the suspension and inflate the bags.  They will add stress to the suspension, potentially causing issues.

  15. So the exhaust side you'll need (don't hold me to this, doing it off of memory)

    gasket between the manifold and turbo

    gasket between turbo and first cat downpipe

    gasket between the downpipe and the secondary cat

     

    You will need a bunch of long extensions and I used 2 swivel joints

    An O2 sensor socket will make it easier as well. 

     

    The cold side of the turbo:

    I'd get a new o ring for the charge pipe because their cheap.

    The inlet pipe also has an o ring.....you can replace it if you want, but it really doesn't matter

    The oil feed and return both will need o rings

     

    Another tool that is a must is a set of those flexible clamp pliers.

     

    The turbo itself is really small, and wiggles out through the front.  My guess is it could probably go out the back too.  I'd plan on several days if this is your first time pulling anything big out of the cayenne.  Everything is just really tight and you're knuckles and arms will be bleeding from all the crap you are hitting.

    • Upvote 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.