Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Nimbus117

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nimbus117

  1. Used to be £40, it's gone up. What engine do you have? It's now £60 for a 2.7 & £65 for a 3.2.
  2. This is my configuration, I haven't seen a DSP up close I'm afraid so absolutely no use, lol.
  3. As above. I'm afraid the guy who installed it for you did a poor job. He may have the constant 12v (thick black/red wire) and the 12v switched connected around the wrong way so check for this too.
  4. I have the Pioneer 940BT head unit. I run the front and rear speakers off the head unit amp and the subs in the doors off a 2 channel Alpine amp from the RCA head unit output. Located the Alpine where the Porsche offering used to live. Also fitted a reverse camera, the Porsche wiring is a bit strange (I connected the feed to the reverse lights) but it means I can select reverse view manually when going forward. By rights, the camera should only be live when the reverse lights are on.
  5. Mine's squealing - only does it when the engine's at temperature but is really slight - can only hear it at low speed with the hood up. Someone suggested taking off the engine cover and spraying each of the pulleys in turn until the squealing stops. My problem will probably be one of the belt tensioner pulleys or the water pump - doesn't sound like your problem but it is difficult figuring out where these noises come from.
  6. Are you getting any clutch slip? might be worth a quick check of the cable etc first before assuming the worst. In the UK we have loads of specialist garages which are much cheaper than the Porsche dealers. They have all the tools etc so do as good a job, the specialist near me charges £600 parts & labor for a replacement clutch ($900).
  7. Thanks Richard, It's the 2003 model, it's due a service in a couple of weeks so I was going to ask them to turn it on then. I realised that it wouldn't work until it was enabled, just wondered if there was a light or anything to show it was connected correctly before I take it to the garage. I will get them to check both the DME & cluster as shown on here. If you had been closer, I would have been it touch already after reading your posts on this. Can now see I got 29.7 mpg on the way to work today, not bad as it's all fun twisty B roads.
  8. I have just completed the OBC/cruise hack. OBC was enabled on a white instrument cluster I bought off fleabay so that worked straight off. Is it normal for cruise to be completely dead (no lights etc) until it's enabled? The sheath on the cable I used going to the fusebox is really tough so the scotchlok may not have penetrated. However if nothing happens until it is turned on then I wont worry.
  9. What Pioneer unit did you buy? Sure you have wired it up correctly? mine turns off with the ignition. The cable is worth getting as you say, charges the phone, displays album artwork, app mode, video etc. My iphone lives in the armrest in the centre console as that's where I ran the connector cable. Gets a GPS signal even with a hardtop on, as explained before I use the TomTom on the phone which displays on the screen of my Pioneer 930BT unit in app mode which has more up to date maps than the Pioneer offering (as well being plain better). Dont need to touch the phone, can control everything through the Pioneer. You might have a dodgy fakra adapter, mine works fine.
  10. I managed to get it in. Attached the rubber hoses to the intake and throttle body then attached the two aluminium pipes with the bellows outside the car then manoeuvred them into place. It's very tight and fiddley. I would say this isn't as much of a benefit on 2003-2004 cars as the earlier ones. The intake muffler on my car is much smaller than earlier models. I got this cheap on ebay so all's good, definitely wouldn't spend £200 on the kit otherwise. It does make a difference, the induction roar at full throttle (even at low revs) is more noticeable, no difference to noise at lesser throttle. The engine felt wheezy at high revs before, feels stronger right up to the rev limiter now. I severely doubt the 20bhp manufacturers claim, maybe one or two max but does sound meaner!
  11. Just spent two hours trying to fit a EurocupGT highflow induction kit. What a nightmare, was impossible to get at. In the end I gave up and put the old one back on as one of the jubilee clips thread was stripped - perils of second hand off ebay. Has anyone fitted one of these or something similar and can offer some tips? I just couldn't get sufficient access with the roof in the way. Thanks
  12. Thanks Phil, Dont think I will bother with a re-map. If there were owners raving about the improvement, I would give it a go. A total lack of this anywhere on here or elsewhere on the internet for the Boxster makes me not want to try. I have de-snorkelled the car and liked the increased induction roar. This week I bought a second hand EurocupGT highflow induction kit on Ebay for not a lot so that will do for engine mods. I have always been intrigued at the way Porsche and other manufacturers space out the performance on their different models (often with the same engine) to make the top models more appealing. Reducing power via the ECU is a cost effective way of doing this. As I stated at the beginning, I also have a Civic Type R. A remap with the Hondata unit makes them much more driveable, it's amazing that Honda made such a poor job (the european model). The Vtec point is set way too high (5500rpm), it's much easier to live with if this is reduced to 3800rpm (at full throttle), the mid range improvement is much better and reducing the need to drop two or three gears to make it move . Also the limiter is raised to 8600rpm, we did some work on this engine for Honda a couple of years ago at work so know all this is safe and the right way to go. Thanks again for the advice. Richard
  13. Thanks Loren, I tried searching on here and didn't find anyone who had a remap. I was sceptical but then some manufacturers do turn down the power on lower models, to justify the price of the expensive ones or make you buy the latest model. I am happy with the power, if a simple remap would result in 20hp as these companies claim - sure I would be tempted.
  14. Thanks Loren. I assume by the lack of response that remaps are not popular. The Boxster offers good gains 30-40hp for not much cash by de-snorkelling, replacing the induction pipe and a remap. Would be good to get an owners opinion of a remap rather than the claims of those selling them. Would appreciate any comments. Cheers Richard
  15. Has anyone had a remap? plenty of companies claiming an improvement of 20hp and 30nm torque for a 2.7L but not seen any posts anywhere from Boxster owners who have done this. I also have a Civic Type R, Hondata Flashpro is a very popular DIY loadable remap for these - if you can justify £550.
  16. There are only 4 speaker outputs on the pioneer units so used these for the front and rear speakers. The subs therefore require a feed from a pair of RCA outputs to an amp. There is no wiring in place for rear speakers if you dont have them already. However it is supplied with the rear speaker kit and is the correct length with the correct plug to plug straight into the stereo. It also comes with an extension so you can plug into the Porsche amp in the front if there is anyone wanting to add rear speakers to the standard offering.
  17. It's not an easy undertaking - be warned! I have a 2003 model too, apart from the speakers - the rest is useless. I did however get £200 on ebay for the head unit, amp and cd changer which was good. The guides will show you what to do. I bought the rear speaker kit from the US as also the trim surround from a guy off here - would recommend you do the same as every other trim surround looked cheap and it sounds 10 times better with the extra speakers in the back. I got a live feed off the aircon unit, I bought a couple of ISO plugs and sockets off ebay and rewired it to iso standard to connect to my Pioneer 930BT. The ipod adapter is routed to inside of the arm rest, I often use TomTom on the Pioneer in app mode from my iphone and I get good satellite signal even from inside the arm rest. I would go as far to say - dont bother with a navigation device if you have an iphone. The pioneer unit you are looking at has app mode and is much cheaper than my unit - TomTom is much better than the Pioneer software offering. Buy a decent amp (Alpine) to run the subs, I had awful alternator whine with the first one I bought. I ran the front and rear speakers off the headunit which sounds great. Routing one pair of RCA cables was much easier than with 3sets for the 3 way amp I first tried. While you are at it, go for the reversing camera while you are at it. If you want any advice, send me a PM. Richard
  18. Recently I came home from holiday to find I hadn't closed the rear trunk on my 2003 Boxster and the battery was flat. Anyway, got the frunk trunk open thanks to advice off here and recharged the battery. When I reconnect the battery the rear trunk pops open, afterwards though you cannot open it from either the key or the button in the car. There is no noise when you press the button in the car and the button on the remote that normally opens the rear trunk now makes the doors open. I can still access the boot by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery as it pops open when you do this. Anyone got any idea what might be wrong? the fact the trunk opens on battery reconnect makes me think this is some weird setup problem rather than something broken. Thanks in advance Richard
  19. Found it, both Lambda sensors on the LH exhaust were both loose. Tightened them up - rattle gone! Wonder how that happened?
  20. Thanks Loren, Had the covers off, belt looks new - seems to be tensioned correctly and no wobble. As is only evident during acceleration or deceleration I think it's the exhaust, seen a few posts on forums about the Cat rattling. Not sure how to check this as I cant replicate the rattle by banging it - not even sure which one it is. It only does it when there is a load, revving it has no effect. I dont mind replacing both Cats but would be really annoyed afterwards if it still rattles.
  21. Had all the covers off the engine, nothing loose in there and I cant see anything loose anywhere else.......help!
  22. Hi Guys, Just bought a 2003 2.7L, it's in excellent condition despite it's 90,000 miles. It has a rattle at the rear however which is driving me insane. It sounds a little like valves rattling, only happens below 2500rpm when either slowly accelerating or decelerating. Of course it may not be the engine but this is when it's noticeable, cant hear it with the hood up only when it's down and road surface makes no difference. I have had it up on ramps and checked all the heat shields, tie bars etc but nothing is obviously loose. Can anyone help? I thought it might be detonation and maybe try different fuel but it does it does it on deceleration too. All suggestions are most gratefully received. Thanks Richard
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.