Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
ChrisLdn
-
Posts
12 -
Joined
-
Last visited
ChrisLdn's Achievements
Member (1/1)
0
Reputation
-
Replacing AC control panel
ChrisLdn replied to porsche996tt_tpe's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Match the number as there is another ending 03. Get the wrong one and it will blow the dash binnicle fuse. -
Thanks guys. Just picked it up and am very happy with it. It's boosting to 1.0bar! So guess it's had a little remap in its past. Any idea what hp it is likely to be? Probably 450+? Was thinking of getting one in the future so am a happy bunny. Perhaps that's why the other garage didn't notice the lack of performance at 0.4, it was quick anyway. Can't recommend JZ Machtech enough, think I am going to use them for servicing now too. Washed and hoovered! Nice touch.
-
Just got the call from JZM. They have sorted it in a morning, amazing service from these guys, seriously impressed. It was the 3 way valve and electric motor thing for £16! I think is the 'N75' valve I have read about? Also the repaired actuators I had done before and the waste gate calibration was off. Now boosting 0.8 -0.9. They really know their stuff. So a couple of little bits and 2 hours labour. Looking forward to driving it. I thought it was fast before.
-
Booked it in to JZM for diagnosis. Will report back. Low boost sounds like a common problem with many potential causes. I very much doubt its a false reading.
-
Hi Frank, The garage didn't pop a gauge on for the testing but said it would be the next step. I suppose I need a more turbo fluent garage than this independent. They did change the actuators so that's another thing off the list. I don't have a durametric but might look to purchase one. I have read that the 0.4bar is significant for the limp mode. But how do I get out of that? Is a durametric the only way? The battery reset did not work.
-
Have been reading all the low boost topics but can't seem to solve my issue. I am seeing a maximum of 0.4 bar boost on the dash. The car feels fast but I have nothing to compare it to as it's always been like this since I bought the car a few months ago. I got silicone hoses fitted and billet forge DVs. I got the garage to check out for any issues. They couldn't find anything after fitting the parts and claim it is as fast as it should be. They tried a new sensor and it made no difference to the boost reading. I don't know if to believe them. I today reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. The car feels a bit more responsive but boost remains at 0.4. Is it possible I have a false reading? Can it be fixed? I don't want to leave it if I am not getting full boost. Any ideas of what to check next or how to tell if it's boosting right?
-
Thanks Loren. That's got to be it then. The part is on ebay and there is a big box of fuses coming the other way.
-
Will have to check the build date, but its registered 2002 and is a turbo. Likely to be built that year too, I guess. So is it likely that it will not work with the 03 unit? Thanks in advance. An -03 will only work in a MY2001 car. What is the model is your car (per the build date on the drivers door)?
-
I wanted to swap mine too as it had the same issue with the LCD screen. I have a unit with the ending number 09 and I got a used part ending 03. I switched them over and the Dash died when I switched on. I think that's just a fuse. I also noticed that the new unit read in degrees F not C. I took the blown fuse and the deg F to mean it might be the wrong part. I have also learned that the 09 part is just a newer version. In that case can I switch the degrees F to C some how? Am I likely to keep blowing fuses? I sourced the part from the US but will that cause it to be different? Any help appreciated.
-
Pentosin leak Under Hood ... Clutch Accumulator or Slave?
ChrisLdn replied to skymast's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Interesting your mention of sitting, the previous owner did not use the car much. Have resigned myself to having to replace both. I transferred the fluid to the back and after the drive to the garage it appears to be a slow seep, but best to get it sorted. I want the clutch to engage lower as it's a nightmare to drive in traffic. -
Pentosin leak Under Hood ... Clutch Accumulator or Slave?
ChrisLdn replied to skymast's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
It won't hurt to transfer fluid. I did it for a month before I received the parts needed for this repair. Of course, you probably know that you need to get a new slave (for the fluid migration from the steering reservoir to the clutch reservoir) and an accumulator ( for the hard to depress pedal. Clean up the area properly under the clutch reservoir because this fluid is bad on rubber and you got a big wire bundle in this area that goes to the PSM system.... Was hoping it was just the accumulator. Slave was done 15-20k miles ago! If the front is filling up it can't just be the accumulator then? Thanks for advice on the transfer. Will give it a try tonight. -
Pentosin leak Under Hood ... Clutch Accumulator or Slave?
ChrisLdn replied to skymast's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
I have a seep at the front clutch overflow resevoir. Also a low level at the rear power steering resevoir. The car goes to the garage this weekend. Is worth opening the front resevoir and pumping some pentosin out to replace it in the rear? Sounds easy if I can get the front open. Is this worth doing or should I just leave it to the garage this weekend? Clutch engagement point is high up and is hard before startup. Otherwise it works ok, so perhaps its ok to drive to the garage?