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ultra

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Everything posted by ultra

  1. yep, mine is a first gen Cayenne Turbo with the 4.5 TT V8 I'm really not sure why the dyno numbers were as low as they were (three similar runs after letting the vehicle cool down with the hood up for 30min pre dyno testing). my dyno operator thought that it would have more in it too as the big piggy seemed to be able to put out more power, but we couldn't get it to at the time. I don't think that I have cracked coils as we didn't detect anything like that at the time, but I do have a fresh set of pencils ready to go in just in case. I guess that the best test to highlight any issues would be to run my friend's stock CTT vs mine back to back on the same dyno within the same hour on the same day. I might hold off my intake upgrades until then. I have noted the reports about fouled MAFs with the oiled filters and hope that I can reduce the incidence of that by letting my BMCs dry out a bit in the heat this week. will keep you guys posted. stock vs mine comparison will be in four weeks time.
  2. Thanks for the advice :) I ran on a proper 4WD dyno (Mainline) that is popular with the AWD crowd (WRXs, Skyline GTRs). It easily accommodated my Cayenne's wheelbase and we turned PSM off. I was a little disappointed with the results (228kw / 306HP at the wheels) as we thought that it would make a lot more as it is not stock, hence my question re locking the diffs or other fancy tricks. I have found that Mainline dynos used here are fairly conservative compared to the Dyno Dynamics ones (I don't believe that we have Mustang Dynos in Australia) but the Mainlines are consistent across the workshops in my state whereas there is some variation with the DD's here. The Mainline that I ran on is the one that had been used for state level dyno competitions over the last years and has been particularly consistent for us. While I would expect drivetrain loss with the Cayenne's AWD system and maybe my heavier wheels (21" Porsche Sport Design), I didn't think that I would get such a low reading with a cat bypass and aftermarket exhaust in place. Tires were new 295/35 Pirelli P Zeros. However, I accept that the dyno should be used as a comparative tool and is not absolute. I'm going to fit a pair of BMC filters and dyno again to see what difference that makes to my current config, then install the IPD plenum and dyno after that upgrade. I have also organised to run back to back against a friend's CTT which is almost the same build month and is totally stock (aside from 20" wheels + Gemballa lowering kit) with no intake or exhaust modifications for a relative baseline reading. If his puts down a better number, then there is something seriously wrong with mine or I should consider getting rid of the bypass and exhaust! More data in a few weeks...
  3. Does anyone have any specific advice or a procedure for putting the Cayenne on a four wheel AWD rolling dyno? eg. PSM traction control, locked diffs, Low Range / High Range / on-road off-road, suspension settings, ride height, ramp rates, etc. Also does anyone have any good dyno readouts for before and after mods? Cayenne S and Cayenne Turbo charts would be good to see as I haven't found many on the various forums. Everyone promises to upload after their mods but never do... I'm looking for comparative data from Mustang / Mainline / DynoDynamics rolling dynos as opposed to hub Dynapak dynos.
  4. Does anyone have any recent before and after real world dyno readings for these ECU tunes? Also is there any specific advice or procedure for putting a Cayenne on an AWD rolling dyno? (Mustang / DynoDynamics / Mainline)
  5. When my coolant pipes let go, I replaced them myself. Fairly easy process. A week later I had the dreaded tranny leak. I took my CS to my indy mechanic. He charged me $1300 to replace the torque converter seal. There were no special tools required. They dropped the tranny and replaced the seal. I have seen other mechanics drop the engine/tranny unit at the same time to remove the tranny and fix it that way. From what I can see in the service manual (section 37 35 19) and having just tried to remove the trans in the workshop, it looks like there are a number of special tools needed. Anyone with suggestions on how to get around the torque converter bolts without the special Porsche tools? I don't particularly want to drop the engine and trans all at once - imho I think it's a bit much just to replace a $16 seal!
  6. this is probably a month too late for you, but I think that the part numbers are: insert tool 96870 centering pin 96890 fixing pin 95950 or 95951 (9595/1 or 00072195951) 00072195951 = trans align tool It would be good to know how you went with your torque converter seal replacement. Loren - are items in your picture some of the special tools referred to in the 37 35 19 service manual?
  7. ^ Australia is the 53rd state so maybe I could join the class action? :lol: Answering my own question: from what I have figured out so far, removing the torque converter bolts to drop the transmission without removing the trans + engine requires Porsche "special tool" 96870 and special bit 96880 to get the necessary leverage in the confined space around the Tiptronic. I think this may have been referred to in pakimunda101's thread here: and was described as a half moon ratcheting wrench on another forum. I could drop the transmission and engine together to better access the torque converter bolts, but I think this would be overkill just to replace the $16 radial shaft seal. I'm not replacing the primary cats, diverter valves, intercooler or turbos at this stage, so an engine out job expands the scope of work exponentially imho. Off to the local Porsche dealership to have it done then... :(
  8. hello from Down Under! Sorry for the newb first post, but I'm looking to replace the torque converter (radial shaft) seal in my 04 CTT at an independent mechanic workshop and am wondering if both the engine and tiptronic transmission have to come out for this job? I've just had a look at the service manual section (37 35 19) about removing the transmission and it appears that the transmission can be removed independently of the engine. Are there any neat / quicker ways to remove the transmission housing to change the leaking trans seal? Thanks in advance for any transmission hints. Cheers (and yes, the coolant pipes have been replaced!)
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