Dharn55

I am in the process of installing some 997 memory seats in a 996 with memory. I used the Pelican article on by passing the memory module/computer by rewiring the seat switches and have all that done and working with the exception of the lumbar support. Another owner started this on 6speedonline but never completed it. I am about halfway on this but need some wiring diagrams, specifically for the seats. Again, I am going to by-pass the computers and if I have diagrams that show the wiring in the seats themselves, I think I can figure this out. I have already figured out how the switches function but need to figure out the wiring in the seats. If anyone has these diagrams it would be greatly appreciated.

Those will hit the first time you go over a major bump and then you will have body and/or tire damage.There are lots of Turbo Twists out there, check eBay and other sources.

Cam position sensor will make it run poorly but won't keep it from starting. The crank position sensor will keep,it from starting.

Hey, I think that is my picture (-: But when this happened it was making a loud clacking noise, not a groan. The picture shows the top mount for a C4, which is quite different from a C2. in the last couple of years my car started making unbelievable groaning noises when the steering wheel was turned. Replaced the front lower control arms and the noise is gone.

The control module had failed. Used one will be here tomorrow morning!

Hobbes. Tried this but it did not help. I have now checked all 9 microswitches and reset/ checked both petentiometers and reset the latches at the windshield. Still no luck. I had a voltage meter on the leads to the hydraulic pump and there is no power being fed to it. Once the clamshell is open and the latch is open I hear a click and the in a few seconds another click, but no power to the pump. My next shot is to switch out the cab control module with one from a friends car that we know works. If that fixes the problem I will know the control module failed. If not I am not sure what I will try next.

On my 2000 C4 Cab the top stopped opening yesterday. The clam shell opens and the latch at the top of the windshield opens and then it stops. You can hear some clicking. When I run my Durametric it shows a fault code, 5 - maximum time exceeded. If I clear this error it re-appears. A little background on this. Yesterday morning I used the RemoteTop on the car to open the top and it opened about 6" then stopped. This had happened a couple of time recently. When I got in the car and used the dash switch the top opened all the way. We went to the farmers market and used the dash switch, with the one touch option using a SmartTop module and it closed fine. When we returned to the car and used the RemoteTop/Key to open the top only the clam shell raised the the windshield latch opened and nothing else. then tried the dash switch with the same result. Top closes all the way with the key or dash switch but does not open. This car has a SmartTop that was installed 10+ years ago. Also a RemoteTop that was installed 6+ years ago, the original style without the separate power feed, which failed about 2 years ago and was repalced with the newer version that has the separate power feed. This worked well until a month or so ago when the top started opening almost all the way and would stop just short of closing the clam shell. I spoke to Mods4cars and they had me reset the timing by starting the opening procedure, pushing the windshield micro switch withing 8 seconds of starting, and pushing it again one the top was down and before the windows raised. This seemed to fix the problem. Also the top was replaced 3 months ago but has worked fine up until now. I tried to recalibrate the the top with the Durametric and nothing would happen, I had tried this in the past. I removed the RemoteTop and the problem still existed. Then I removed the SmartTop module and the problem still existed. But here is something interesting, when the SmartTop module was removed the Durametric recalibration worked!! AT least it started, but stopped at the same point, Clam Shell Open and windshield patch open, then stops. Same error code shows up, max time exceeded. There are no error codes for bad micro switches. I have check the oil level, it was slightly low, and refilled it. No leaks or anything else. Checked micro switches for the clam Shell, top mounted latch assembly, and windshield assembly and all seem to work, although I have not ohmed them. It seems that once the clam shell is opened and the latch opens, there is come clicking but the pump doe not start and the top does not move. Looking for suggestions on what to look for. I know this is a little long but I wanted to give as much information as possible. Thanks

In the 16 years I have had my cab I have cleaned the drains for the cab top 3-4 times, but this spring the drivers side got blocked again. After a very heavy rain my locking system was going crazy with the car just sitting there. I opened it with a key and found almost an inch of water under the seat on the driver side. I took out the unit, opened it up and dried it out. Then sprayed some electronics cleaner on it. Unit works fine. However I have been trying to dry out the carpet for over a week now and the closed cell backing is still damp. Under the carpet there are recesses in the body and if the carpet is wet then these are probably filled with water. I shop vacuumed out about a gallon of water from these areas. So if the carpet is damp you need to pull it up at least partially and check these areas. And getting the carpet and foam dried out is a real challenge. Most of the area under the seat and behind it is now dry, but in front of the seat the foam is still damp. I am trying to avoid taking the entire carpet out of the car as it is a major hassle. But the bottom line is it is worth it to take out the locking computer and try to dry it out. And check the drains on both side on a regular basis!

I have had a Durametric for over 10 years. Bought one of the first ones made and upgraded the cable a few years ago. It is a good system. Is it as good as the original Porsche systems? No, but it works great for a fraction of the cost. The new Porsche system leases for $15,000+/yr.

If you have a C4 shop around for the top mounts. You see them all the time for $250-$300@+. I found them a few years back for closer to $150@, OEM, at Sunset I think. My buddy just paid $300@ each at his Indy.

OK, I will put in my $.02 worth. Lifetime coolant is a bad idea, unless you define it as the lifetime of the engine (i.e. When the engine fails die to bad coolant). When my car was made (2000) Porsche recommended oil changes every 15,000 miles, what a joke! Do you know anyone who recommends going 15,000 miles on these cars today? When I had my intermix/cracked head back in 2008 I drained and flushed the entire coolant system several times to remove the contamination. Since then I have run PEAK coolant and have had no problems whatsoever. If you want to pay the extra for the Porsche coolant be my guest, but a coolant rated for an aluminum engine will work just as well. This is somewhat like buying only Porsche OEM parts. For many of these it is just a label on the box, but the exact same parts are available from the same manufacturer without the Porsche mark on the box at a lower cost.

PM me your email and I will give you a DropBox link with a bunch of info on the difference between the VarioCam and VarioCamPlus systems. Theu are quire different. In a nut shell the VarioCam system is a simple advance of the intake cam at a certain RPM and then releases the advance at a higher RPM, and vice versa. The amount of advance is fixed. The VarioCamPlus system has a variable amount of advance and can change the lift of the intake valves. So the control system is entirely different. And the Engine Management System is entirely different between the two to control this, and the later system is CanBus. So it is very complex to install the later system in an earlier car and get it to function properly. Lots of horror stories from people who have tried this.

Yes. The electrical connector is a simple slip connection. The two fuel line just take a 15mm wrench to losses. Not all cars have this fuel cooler.

Are here still available?

Contact Gbox in Colorado. http://www.gboxweb.com/index.html They have rebuilts or will rebuild yours for a fraction of that price.

You can tell if it is a dual row or a single row by looking at the flange, you don't have to remove it. If it is the single row then upgrading is a great idea. If it is the dual row than upgrading the IMSB is not as important. If you read up on the subject, including infor from Jake Raby, the failure rate on the dual row ISMB is much lower. Of course that being said I did upgrade my dual row, but used the direct feed system. Just a personal choice.

Nice that someone is finally making oversized bearings for these engines. But $999 for a set of bearings is pretty crazy. Better than the cost of a new crank though.

I bought an engine stand from Pep Boys that has enough adjustment to fit. It is the Big Red 750lb stand, all of $69.99.

You only have to take off three of the bolts. There is the rubber disc, referred to as a guibo, three bolts hold the drive shaft to the guibo and three bolt hold the guibo to the flange on the rear of the transmission. I think I took off the three that attached the guibo to the flange on the transmission. to secure the driveshaft rotate it until one of the bolts is at the bottom, then put the transmission in gear and loosen that bolt, take the transmission out of gear and rotate the shaft until the next bolt is at the bottom, put it in gear again and remove this bolt, then repeat. Very easy to do. Once all three bolts are out use a large screw driver to pry the flange off the guibo, it will stick a bit. By the way use some wire to tie the shaft up so it soes not fall down and over flex the u-joint. Of course to do this you have already supported the engine and trans and removed the rear support/bracket. You should take a look at the guibo to see what condition it is in. They dry out, can fray and start to make noise. I have had my engine/trans out a few times and it looked pretty good but was starting to make noise. Could not see the problem but when i replaced it the noise was gone. Of course Porsche does not sell the guibo alone, they want you to buy a new shaft and guibo. However just Google Porsche 996 guibo and you will find them on eBay and elsewhere. They will work fine.

No, you can lower the motor a few inches without damaging the trans. I did it a couple of weeks ago when I removed my coolant tank to test It for leaks. A controlling factor is the cross brace on the rear suspension. Once the engine goes down a few inches the engine/trans hits this and not go down any further. Take it slow to check for any tight wires and hoses. You will probably need to disconnect the fuel houses anyway as it is relly tight and the fuel filter that mounts on the coolant tank has to come out. Also the secondary air pump. You have to lower the engine as the tank will hit the intake runners with the engine in plce. Good luck.

If you have a C4 did you take the fuel filter off the mounting bracket on the tank. My car is a 2000, so the tank is a little different (and almost twice the cost) but I had mine out this weekend. I took out the air box, the air pump and moved a lot of hoses. It was still a ***** to get out. There was no way it would come out without the fuel filter taken off and the engine lowered. Then it was still difficult to get it out. Just kept wiggling it and checking clearances. Same thing getting it back in. I had a few drops leaking onto the exhaust, thought the tank was leaking. It was replaced once when the car was 2-3 years old under warranty. Once I got it out I pressue tested it as the old style tank lists for $375! The tank did not leak, held 20+ lbs. it was the cap that was leaking. It released pressure over about 20-25 lbs. but hen did not reveal, so it slowly leaked. The cap had been replaced once before. Go everything back together this afternoon and took it for a long drive, no more leak!

Sure, it has been sitting in a box since I upgraded my system several years ago so no rush.

I have one of these amps sitting on a shelf if you are interested.

You will probably have rubbing issues with ET50. I tried a set for a while and the rubbed. Rolled the fenders and the still rubbed. Sold them and went with the ET65 and no problems. The ET 50 are basically set out 15mm farther than the ET65's. With any width on the tires they tend to rub. At least that was my experience. The rims I tried were LM's.

I had a noise in my right rear brake for months starting fall of 2013. I could not figure out what it was for the life of me. Checked the brakes pads, the CV joints. Control arms, etc. etc. stopped driving the car over the winter when I could not find it. Still there in the spring and I could not find the source. Then I dropped the engine to reset the cam timing and install a new IMSB ( DOF but that is another story). When the engine was out I rechecked everything and could not find the problem. Engine went back in and ran fine but still had the **** noise. It ended up parked in the garage and driveway over the summer as I did not have the time to mess with it. Finally a few weeks ago I was tired of not having the car to drive and started to look again. The brake rotors had rusted on the surface and when I drove it they were making so much noise I could not hear much of anything. Decided to take off the rotors to have them cut to clean them up. Low and behold I found that the retaining springs for the rear parking brake pads had come out and broken up and were floating around grinding on the drum area and that was the source of the noise. I think that if I had not taken the rotors off I would still be looking for the source of the noise. I can't believe that I basically did not drive the car for 6-8 months because of the noise and it was such a silly thing. By the way, if you look up these springs on PET under a 996/986 they are $28@. Crazy. Then I cross referenced the brake shoes and they are the same on a 928. The springs under 928 in PET are virtually the same, I could not see a difference and they are $9@. Give it a look, this could be the. Source of your problem.