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mxt_77

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Everything posted by mxt_77

  1. mxt_77
    Thanks!
  2. mxt_77
    Correct. When I removed & reinstalled the actuator, I ensured that everything was in place and that the actuator arm could move freely, and that I could manually engage the lock properly. But even when the actuator was not installed and was just plugged in to the connector (with no risk of interference or resistance), it still did not move when I locked/unlocked the car. At this point, I've ruled out everything but the wiring harness and control unit. I highly doubt there is a problem with the wiring, though. The TPMS sensor antenna comes through that same path and it has no issues. I suspect it's going to come down to the control unit. I'm just not sure if this is a software issue that can be resolved by re-programming or a hardware issue that will require a new part (and presumably programming, too). I tried to see if I could reach the connector on the control unit referenced in the thread Ahsai linked too, but I couldn't get a good enough grip to disconnect it while contorted under the dash. I might try again in the coming days when I have a chance.
  3. mxt_77
    Other than the filler flap not locking/unlocking, no. There are no other problems with normal operation. The doors lock/unlock as expected. I'm not too worried about it, because I'm assuming it has been like that since I bought the car (used), and I just didn't notice it until I got the Durametric and stumbled across the code. But, I'd hate to give some mischievous kid the opportunity to pour sugar in the tank, etc. Although, nowadays, I'm guessing most people just assume the filler flap is locked and don't bother messing with it, unless they're willing to jimmy it open. But, since I have been off work for the last week & a half, I thought I'd try sorting this issue out along with some of the other regularly scheduled maintenance that I've been doing. I assumed it was just going to be a failed actuator, but unfortunately it looks like it wasn't that simple.
  4. mxt_77
    Sorry... I didn't mean to say that the actuator would twitch at the *moment* it was plugged in (i.e., during the process of plugging it in). I meant to say that it would twitch when I hit the lock/unlock on the key fob while it was plugged in. I assume the control module sends it +/-12V to actuate it. I was successfully able to actuate it with a 9V battery for testing. So, I know that the actuator is good, and since it didn't move while locking/unlocking the car, I can infer that there was no voltage at the connector. Ultimately, I'd just like to find the actual control module. Then, I can unplug the connector at both ends and use the ammeter to check for a short in the wire. If none is found, then I'll know that it is the control module that has failed. If one is found, then I'll have to decide if it's worth replacing the harness just to get the fuel filler door to lock again. :(
  5. mxt_77
    Thanks for clarification/confirmation!
  6. mxt_77
    I didn't specifically check w/ the voltmeter, but I'm going to say there was no voltage there. If there had been, the actuator would've at least twitched when it was plugged in.
  7. mxt_77
    Did this change from year to year? On my 2008 Carrera S, I found part number 997.610.105.11 in that location, not 997.618.516.01. 997.610.105.11 - Headlight Control Unit? 997.618.516.01 - Vehicle Electrical System Control Unit?
  8. mxt_77
    So, I'm getting the code in the title, but the problem isn't with the actuator itself. Can anyone help me troubleshoot it further? Vehicle: * 2008 Carrera S Symptoms: * Durametric code 8039: "Filler flap actuating element" under Vehicle Electrical System. Completed troubleshooting steps: * Confirmed that the actuator does not move when locking/unlocking car using the remote. * Clear the code, and it comes back the next time I lock/unlock the car using the remote. * Removed the actuator, connected to 9v battery and confirmed that it would move in both directions (based on polarity). * Ensured that the actuator was installed correctly and that the rod could move in/out freely. * Used an ammeter and found resistance when checking the connector that plugs into the actuator. Does this indicate a short? * Performed a visual inspection of the connector and wiring inside the fender and frunk area and saw no problems. I'd like to determine if there is a short in the wiring harness or if it is a problem with the associated Control Unit, so: Questions: * Which control unit does the Filler Flap Lock connect to? * Where is this control unit located on an '08 Carrera S? * What is the path of the wiring, once it passes the firewall? Thanks for any help!
  9. mxt_77
    Most likely, you either: 1) Boiled the brake fluid, or 2) Glazed the pads. To resolve: For #1) Bleed (or better yet, flush) the brake fluid to get any air out of the lines. I recommend replacing with a high-temp fluid like Motul RBF600. It'll hold up better to track temps. If you're doing frequent track days, you should be flushing brake fluid regularly, anyway. For #2) Replace the pads. In theory, you could drive on them until eventually wearing off the glazing, but the one time that I glazed my pads, I observed that they also became brittle... so I'd recommend just replacing them. A lot of people use the factory pads for track days, so you can just put in a new set of stock pads. They'll generally hold up unless you're at a track that is hard on brakes, or unless your driving style is hard on brakes. Personally, I have a separate set of Pagid track pads that I use only on track days, because they dust/squeal too much for around-town use. I just swap them in & out for track days, which is a pretty easy task if you have a basic set of tools.
  10. mxt_77
    Also... looking at that picture, something doesn't look right about that rear wheel. Do they have a front wheel on the rear? Is the car sitting higher than normal?
  11. mxt_77
    Don't know about a repair manual, but you can get the parts manual from Porsche's website. http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/usa/997_USA_KATALOG.pdf That might help to show what is supposed to be there (and part numbers if you have to order anything).
  12. mxt_77
    Thanks for the replies. After removing the old coil packs, I saw that they are, indeed, different part numbers. The original (factory) coils for my 2008 Carrera S were Beru 0040100021 (Porsche 997.602.102.00). The new ones were Beru 0040100036. The old ones were a little less consistent. They were 0.7-1.0 ohms, so still about the same resistance. The new ones are installed, and so far things are looking good. I was previously having some intermittent misfires (when the car was very hot from long drives or track days) and low MPG under normal driving. It's hard to reproduce the misfire symptom, but I should be able to tell pretty quickly if my MPGs have improved.
  13. mxt_77
    Has anyone actually tested the resistance on a set of new coils? I just got a set of new Beru coils, and the resistance between pins 1 & 15 on all 6 of them is right at 1.0ohm. The chart above indicates that it should be 0.3-0.7ohms. Should I be concerned?
  14. mxt_77
    Awesome. Thanks for the follow up with detailed analysis & pics. I found a link based on the part number, and it looks like that switch module is about a $40 part. That's much better than the $180 you were originally quoted. Good luck! I hope that replacing this part resolves your issue.
  15. mxt_77
    Sorry I was slow to get back to you. I just now had a chance to go out to the garage and play around with it a bit. The part that the arrow points to appears to just be a rubber stopper to absorb the impact of the door lever. The smaller button below and to the left of that is actually the switch/sensor. You can test it by pulling the lever open a bit and pushing it in or releasing it. Of course, you already know this doesn't work, so that's the likely culprit. There's a protrusion on the back of the lever that should push that button in when the lever is closed. Verify that hasn't cracked or broken off (unlikely). Then just make sure that whatever you ordered from the dealer includes whatever that button is connected to. Looks like it must be contained with the "insert", which is the piece with the window switches, etc. I'm assuming it connects to the box from this pic that has the red connector plugged into it. It might be worth disassembling the door panel though, just to see what's back there. Maybe you can source a switch independently, rather than paying $180 for the whole replacement part from the dealer..
  16. mxt_77
    I can't say for sure. Looking at the pic of the interior door trim in the parts catalog, there's no indication of a switch associated with the lever. I'm concerned that it might not be part of the lever, but rather part of the upper trim piece (where the window switches are located). Maybe see if you see anything of use in this thread: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/diy-submission-forum/603700-diy-997-door-panel-removal.html
  17. mxt_77
    I ended up taking the car back to the dealer to have the functionality re-activated.
  18. mxt_77
    Wow... Old thread. If you're getting a slow start, I'd recommend that you have the battery and charging system checked. That's easy enough with a voltmeter. If those check good, you should look at replacing the "b plus" cable (between the alternator and starter). I was having a slow crank on my 08 Carrera S, had the "b plus" cable replaced under warranty, and now it cranks like a champ.
  19. mxt_77
    So, originally I had an issue where my "Individual Memory" option was missing from the PCM menu (likely because the control unit had been replaced previously), so I took the car in to have that activated. Apparently, during that process the "Radio Station" option was removed from the choices for the Central Display (below the digital speedo). Now, I only have "Empty" or "Estimated Range" or something like that. My question is: Short of taking the car back to the dealer and having them jack with the computer some more, does anybody know of a way to re-activate this on my own?
  20. mxt_77
    ^ I don't know a lot about Porsches, yet, but I don't think what he's describing is a check engine code. Those can be pulled with an OBD2 scanner, but I think his fault will need a PIWIS or other device to check its value. If he worked on the glove box, I wouldn't be surprised if the fault has something to do with the Central Locking system.
  21. mxt_77
    Not on the Porsche, but when I had an S2000, I heard people complain of clutch buzz. You might search an S2000 forum and see what their problem & resolution was. Maybe it's something similar. Alternatively, it could just be a heat shield somewhere. I had that in one of my former cars as well. Good luck.
  22. mxt_77
    As a follow-up, I did take a look at the specs on the tires the OP is considering. They have a treadwear rating of 540. In general, high treadwear = low grip. I don't think I'd want sticky tires up front and low grip tires in the rear, especially in a RR car. While it won't inherently cause problems, it could make the car less predictable if reacting to an emergency situation, etc. YMMV.
  23. mxt_77
    Lol @ mixed tire brands resulting in aero lift. Seriously? This forum is always good for some laughs. Having mixed tire brands is not going to cause that type of problem. Now, if you are using improperly rated tires that aren't designed for 100+ mph speeds, then it might result in their shape deflecting (or even tire failure) which could result in instability, but it has nothing to do with having different brands/compounds on the front than you have on the rear. For normal driving, it doesn't matter what mix of tires you have on the car as long as they're all properly sized. It's only at the limits that these types of changes have an impact. If you're cornering aggressively and you have grippier tires up front, then it's going to result in oversteer. Likewise, if you're threshold braking, it could result in the tires at one end locking up (or engaging ABS) earlier than the other end. So, you might not have optimal performance at the limits, but for everyday driving, there will likely be no impact whatsoever. I'd recommend using equivalent or similar compounds just because the car was engineered to perform better that way. But if all you're concerned about is getting from A to B, and you're not concerned about performance, then go ahead and mix tires all you want. Then again, I'd argue that if you're not interested in performance, maybe you shouldn't be driving a Porsche. ;)
  24. mxt_77
    ^ Thanks, Loren!
  25. mxt_77
    Somebody want to explain what we're talking about here? I'm lost.
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