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c4s jim

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  • Posts

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Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 911 C4S
  • Former cars
    2001 Audi TT

c4s jim's Achievements

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  1. I need some help from Loren, Toolpants or any of you other hands-on, mechanical folks. I'm technically challenged, so please forgive the stupid questions. I have a 2002 C4S with 53,000 miles. I have the RMS leak, and I am fortunately under CPO warranty, so the cost of this repair will be covered. Dealer has indicated it will also change out the intermediate seal at the same time. I also believe that my clutch is likely pretty worn (no signs of slippage, but clutch engages at very high peddle and clutch peddle is hard to depress). I think it may be a good time to make a proposition to the dealer to also change out the clutch with me paying the difference out of pocket. But how much is fair? From a search on this subject, I gather that the labor involved in the warranty RMS work includes dropping the transmission, so I assume that this represents the lion's share of the labor that's also required to change out the clutch? If this is true, what's a reasonable amount of incremental dealer labor that I should have to pay for? Also, I gather that if I obtain the clutch kit, etc. myself from Sunset, it's likely to be hundreds less than the same parts via my local dealer. Is it reasonable for me to obtain the kit to save $ and expect the local dealer to install for just the incremental labor charges? Finally, (last dumb question) does the RMS repair involve draining all the oil, and hence it'll include an oil change? Thanks.
  2. After attending an autocross event, I now find that when moving slowly and turning while in 1st gear that the sound of the power steering has gotten much louder. Any ideas?
  3. Nick, Thanks for your thoughts. I agree that if there's no slippage under load, it's not likely a worn clutch. Guys, I could really use some help. Does anybody have any insight on what might be causing the clutch shudder? Thanks, Jim
  4. I have a 2002 C4S with 40,000 miles. I go off regular warranty in about 3 weeks, but I purchased the car a year ago as CPO so I'll still have the extended, but more limited warranty. Problem: When the car is cold (especially if ambient temp is also cold), when I back out of my work parking space then engage 1st gear for the first time, I almost always get a shudder/bucking of the clutch (much like what a complete novice would do at first attempt to learn a manual transmission) that lasts for a second or two. Very rarely it also happens on the second time engaging first gear at the garage's exit (within about 30 seconds of the first occurrence). Other issues that might/might not be relevant: 1) I have an annoying clutch squeak (at the clutch pedal area) when I depress the clutch; dealer lubed something - it helped for about 1 month, but the squeak is back. 2) The clutch pedal has always (since I bought the car with 24,000 mi) been pretty stiff. 3) I've never noticed any other type of clutch slippage, except as described above. 4) When letting out the clutch, the engine engages very high in the clutch pedal's travel. Any ideas?
  5. I have a 2002 C4S that I've owned for about 7 months. It has the bi-xenon headlights, but from the beginning I've found them to be far less bright (how far directly in front they'll effectively illuminate) then I would have expected. When driving at speed at night on a curvy road, it's far too easy to "outdrive" the headlights and not have enough advance notice of which way the road is curving. Does anybody know if the bi-xenons can become less effective with age? (could the bulbs themselves slowly be depleting the xenon gas, or could it be the ignighters maybe?) My previous car was a 2001 Audi TT with xenon headlights; when new, they lit up the night just like it was daytime and they were effective over a very long distance. After 4 years and 90,000 miles I swear that they became far less bright (or was it just my imagination?).
  6. I've had work done at ****'s Auto Body in Somerville three times. They are the best. www.dicksautobody.com
  7. A stupid question. I've had a 2002 c4s for 2 months, but I'm about to attend my first DE event. I do have the special wrench socket that matches the bolts. I want to check the torque on the wheel bolts before the event. I have a torque wrench but I don't know what size deep socket that I need to buy, so that I can torque the bolts (94 ft-lbs). Anybody know off hand what size socket? Or am I missing the point? Is the special wrench socket only used to remove the bolts, or is it also used to tighten them as well (meaning I can't use a normal socket)? Thanks.
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