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Boxtaboy

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About Boxtaboy

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

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Profile Fields

  • From
    New Jersey
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    07 997S Cabriolet
  • Former cars
    86 944, 01 Boxster

Recent Profile Visitors

1,197 profile views
  1. Thank you. That is not the strap I'm referring to (mine's a bit higher up in the roof rail), but thank you for the video. Good info for if/when my lower elastic strap starts failing.
  2. Ha, no problem. At least I got a response from someone after 160+ views. Lol
  3. Sounds like the power connection to the center console isn't there (eg. window and parking brake switches). When you pull up the parking brake, does the red light indicate that parking brake is up (in the instrument cluster)? If that parking brake isn't seen as activated, your top will not operate. I know you said you checked the fuses, but I would assume the fuse for the parking brake and window switches would be the same, and start there.
  4. Almost 150 views...wow. Don't all answer at once fellas! LOL! Ok, here's a better pic below. Left with the strap still intact. Right with strap missing. Just curious what that strap is for, as I don't see any problems with the top opening and closing without that strap in place. What is that strap for? Anyone?
  5. So I noticed one of the velcro straps in my top broke from the top and is hanging from the metal bar, so I just took it off. Is this strap supposed to help guide the top under the plastic channel when closed or something else, because as you can see in the 2nd pic on the right, the top still closes correctly and tucks nicely under the channel even with the strap off. Just curious what that strap is for and if I really need to sew it back in place. Thanks.
  6. Good luck either way you go. The colored calipers do nicely smarten up the look of the car IMO.
  7. Oh, and btw, we didn't need to remove my calipers to do the job either. Just jack the car up on 4 jackstands, remove wheels and clean the calipers really well first (with the supplied brake cleaner and toothbrush). Then, make a small hole thru a garbage bag and stretch it over the caliper so that only the caliper shows and the rotor and everything else is covered by the garbage bag. This way, you won't get paint on the rotors. Use painters tape to cover any other areas on the caliper that you don't want to paint like the bleeder bolts, and voila...you are ready to paint. The rest is easy. Paint all 4 calipers with the brush on paint and then wait a couple hours. Apply the Porsche decals and then spray 2 thin coats of duplicolor clear coat. Put your wheels back on and you're done!
  8. Hey, that's my car you posted there! Lol. My friend Maurice and I painted my calipers one afternoon using the G2 caliper paint kit (it's a brush on kit). It brushes on, and then in a couple hours, it dries perfectly smooth like nail polish. Before it totally dried, I applied the PORSCHE decal lettering and then clear coated over it to protect the decal. It's been years now, and they still look awesome.... Honestly, it looks as good or better than the OEM reds...Not bad for $50. Lol.
  9. I've found no appreciable difference with them in. The center plexiglass windscreen, however, does make a big difference.
  10. The 987 bumperettes are attached differently than the 986. Here's how to remove the 987 bumperettes... http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/cayman-cosmetic-mods/p4-removing-bumperettes.html
  11. Yep, they end in .04. Just picked one up to replace my cap ending in .01 even though I've had no issues.
  12. If you can hear the pump trying to spray water thru the jets, but no water comes out, then the problem is not the stalk. These cars are known to have a problem whereby the hose that feeds into the washer fluid tank slips off the tank nipple, and thus, when you operate the water jets, no water comes out. This happened to my car. Easy fix- turn your steering wheel to full right so that you have room to undo the rear portion of the left side front wheel well. Once you pull back the wheel well liner and look up into it, you can see the fluid tank. Reconnect the hose to the tank and secure it with a small hose clamp. You will never have that problem again.
  13. Problem there is that it's going to be just as much of a ***** to remove as it was before; the blue tool won't help you there. I like worm-gear pipe clamps better for something like this. Well, my friend helped me change out my AOS just this past weekend, and the little blue tool was useful in that you could put the spring clip (with the blue tool on it) over the lower bellows, and insert the whole AOS into position, and then just unclip the blue tool to compress the clamp. You are correct that when it comes time to remove the AOS for the next changeout, the blue clip is no use to remove the spring clamp...it only facilitates the easy installation of the clamp in tight spots. The good things are that it 1) costs only $1.75 (and comes with the spring clip from the parts counter, and 2) is reusable...a friend used pliers to insert the blue tool back on the used spring clip we removed from my original AOS. :) My old AOS out:
  14. I think the beauty of that tool is that it works well in very tight spots because once that thing is on the clamp, it keeps it open. You can then maneuver the whole thing into the correct position and once you release the blue clip, the spring clamp tightens right at the spot you want it.
  15. Not to ressurect an old thread, but here's the part number for the blue clip and spring clamp combo. Asked my dealer tech for it today as am preparing to do an AOS changeout, and know that access to those clamps can be a bear because it's so tight in there, so this tool should help out:
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