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CarreraLicious

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Everything posted by CarreraLicious

  1. The vent grills are held in place to the painted vent housing via three plastic arms. One or more of these arms could have snapped if someone tried to remove the vent housing to desnork the intake, for example. They commonly break when the housing is removed. The good news is that those vent grills are really cheap to replace, and you can order them from the dealer. The painted portion of the vent housing comes off by way of a single screw on the top of the housing, but you have to loosen the 3 arms of the vent grills from their connections before you can fully pull out the painted vent housing. Once the grills are loose (and it sounds like they are already), you can just unscrew the top screw of the vent housing and then lift it up and out.
  2. I've seen people snapping the arm off on the tray that holds that plug, from doing that too.
  3. I had this problem too, with my Litronics, except it was my pass. side litronic that exhibited those symptoms....when I hit a bump, sometimes the pass. side low beam litronic goes out. If I recycled the light switch, it would re-ignite. What I found after much research, was that it was not the ballast, not the bulb (I had spares), but actually that there is a receiving plug at the end of the headlamp housing tray (shown in the picture below as a white plug) that caused a problem. This plug has to mate with the female plug at the back side of the headlamp. If this mating between the two plugs is not fully secure, when you hit the bump, it will dislodge for a split second, and the light will go out, regardless of whether or not you have your headlamp correctly secured in place. That white plug in the picture (mine is blue colored), is held in place on that arm by a yellow plastic clip from behind it that inserts from the bottom up. Make sure that clip is in place good, and holds the plug totally secure without any play. The plug should not move up or down or forward or back when you try to move it with your hand. I ended up buying a new yellow clip and replacing the old one, and it is now secure. The problem plagued me for over a year until I finally figured it out. If your plug is totally secure, then try spraying some electronics cleaner on it and also the backside of your headlamp plug, to make sure the connections are clean. I am still using the original bulbs on my headlamps and I no longer have this problem.
  4. If it's truly the baffle that's come loose, there's no way to remove just the baffle unless you cut open the muffler, which means you'll then need to re-weld the muffler back together afterwards. Probably easier to just source another muffler and install.
  5. The interior baffling of the muffler is pretty stout, so before you start removing the muffler, I would first let the car fully cool down and then get under it to grab all the muffler connections and try to move them. It may be something as simple as loose bolts on the clamp connections or loose heat shields causing your rattle problem. I once had an annoying rattle at idle in my exhaust. I thought the noise was coming from inside the muffler, but it turned out to be a loose clamp at the connection where the u-pipe connects the muffler to the cat converter. Other areas that typically come loose are the heat shields on the cat converters themselves or above the muffler exhaust area.
  6. I would wait until you actually feel the clutch slipping. My dealer told me at my 30k mile service that I needed a new clutch because my pedal was heavy. I opted to wait because I never abused my clutch and my other car's clutches always lasted me more than 100k miles. My car is now at 59k miles, and the clutch still works perfectly fine.
  7. Actually, you don't even technically need the red clip to turn on the inside sensors when your top is down. All you have to do is lean over when you're outside the car, and use your finger to press the button in the area where the top latch usually goes into (or where the red clip would go into) for a second while you lock the car, and the inside sensors will be on. I drive my car to the office everyday, and in my parking garage there, I put the top up because there are birds that fly around in that garage and sometimes poop on my roof. :( Better on my roof than inside my car. LOL At home in my garage, the roof stays on too, because I don't want mice or spiders crawling into my car. When I'm out, if it's only for a few minutes when I'm running into a store, I'll keep my top down. Otherwise, the top goes up. I've seen peoples' windscreens stolen both when their top was up (cutting thru the soft top) or down, so I don't even bother to use the mesh inserts in my rollbars, but still keep the center windstop in place.
  8. I had an annoying rattle at idle once. It would go away once I drove off. Finally traced it to a loose exhaust clamp that connects one of the u-pipes from the cat converter to the muffler. Wait until the car is fully cooled down and then shake the exhaust parts under your car by hand. If it is a loose clamp, you will be able to feel the pipes move back and forth as you pull on the pipe.
  9. I've only tried one other brand of pads for my 01 Boxster- Pagid blacks, and they were ok, but they emitted just as much or more brake dust as the OEM pads, and also squealed like heck, so I had to install anti-squeal pads on the back of the backing plates of the pads. Personally, I'd just stick with the OEM pads. They perform well, and do not squeak. I went back to the OEM pads recently and am glad I did.
  10. Before you go and authorize a complete engine replacement, I would at least bring the car to another mechanic for a second opinion. I'm not an engine expert, but maybe there's a way to repair the issue. Perhaps folks on the board here may be able to help diagnose the problem. Good luck.
  11. Interesting... yes I'd be curious to find out what the findings are on these, or if I should just stick to the OEM mount and replace. I had a really annoying shudder on hard right turns under power, and traced it to a worn out motor mount. Replaced with an OEM mount (which by the way, is now updated to the 987 part number, as they no longer sell the 986 piece), and the shudder went away. Apparently, the worn motor mount was so deteriorated, it allowed my driveline geometry to be off enough to cause grinding issues. The new mount also got rid of the annoying 3k rpms vibration I used to get when decelerating in that range. My original mount went out at 58k miles.
  12. That is the first time I've heard that as a solution to the vibration while decelerating below 3k rpms. Could you elaborate on why you think changing the AOS would impact engine vibration? I recently found that this vibration went away on my car after replacing a worn engine mount, and think it did it by allowing less engine movement.
  13. Thanks for your input CA. Those are the kind of answers we're looking for! :)
  14. Doug Robbins responded that they have been selling lots of tops with no issues. I would still like to hear owners actual experiences with Robbins and GAHH. There must be someone out there! I will also be in the market for a glass windowed top next Spring. I have a small crack (not fully cracked thru on my 01's plastic window), and so I can wait a few months. I asked the same question as you in terms of soliciting responses from folks who have had aftermarket glass windowed tops on PPBB. One responder to my thread had a GAHH for over a year, and the other had a Robbins for almost a year. Both loved their tops, and had no issues. Robbins even gives you a free top strap when you order their top, which allows you to easily prop the back of the window up, for easy engine access: I'm not sure which I'll go with at this point (GAHH or Robbins), but they both have 3 or 4 yr. warranties, so I'm not much worried either way.
  15. That's great information. Thanks for posting. What I would do is send that over to GAHH or Robbins, and have them try to respond. Maybe they can come up with an explanation of just what that "encapsulation" process is, and if it's any better than their recent versions of the glass top. I have read on other boards about folks who have had their GAHH or Robbins top for over one year without issues. Plus, they give standard 3 or 4 yr. warranties, so seems they are standing by their products as well. I figure at $800 to $1000 for the US version tops, that's a lot less than what you'll pay for the BAS top (given frt costs).
  16. and make sure the plug is flush w/ the arm when sliding the clip up. It's like a key hole and needs to slide into the grooves on the plug just so. Good luck :) Thank you sir!
  17. Hi guys, Was cleaning all the headlamp socket contact points this weekend, and removed the yellow clip holding the socket onto the black plastic post. When trying to reinsert the clip, I had a heck of a time trying to reinsert it, and managed to snap it in half. Is there a trick to putting it back on? It came off by just pulling down on it behind the post, so I thought reinserting was just a matter of pushing it back up and in? What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance. Yellow clip is shown in picture here:
  18. Sorry to hear. I'm not sure about how much help it will be to install a surveillance system, but there are a couple of things you can do- for example, for your wheel center caps, you can buy ones that don't have holes in them that allow you to just stick a coat hanger hook into them to pull them out. This way, the only way to remove the centercap is to take a wheel off to pop them out from the back. You can buy these from bumperplugs.com (no affiliation). For the wheel valve caps, I've found this style, while not as flashy as the colored caps, still look great, and also are not really flashy enough to attract anyone to want to steal them. http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996WH Can't do anything for you about the amber side markers.... most people would not even bother to steal these, as most people like the clear versions, but I guess you can fetch something for them on fleabay. Sad, the state of things I guess, but don't let it get you down from enjoying your car. Good luck!
  19. I'm pretty sure this is normal. On my Boxster, the digital gauges stay on after you turn off your car for a full 5 minutes, unless you lock your car, in which case it turns off immediately.
  20. The rear fog light should only work on the left side. This is so that when you are driving in foggy weather, people won't think that you are driving with the brakes on constantly.
  21. Any solutions for this as of yet? My 99 boxster is now having the same problem. However, it used to intermittently send out fluids at random times when I try to use it, but only for one squirt or two. Now it's not working at all. I would think it's clogged somewhere, but I really have no idea how to access any of the hosing system. Any ideas? I was thinking about checking the fuse (is there one for it?) Any help appreciated, thanks. The most common cause of this failure is simply that the rubber hose slipped off the nipple from the washer fluid tank. It happened in my car a few months ago as well. To fix this issue, turn your steering wheel all the way to the left (to get more access to the rear of the driver's front wheel well liner). You then need to partially remove the rear part of the driver's side front wheel well liner. There are a few plastic nuts and a plastic rivet that you'll need to remove, and then the wheel liner slides out. Once you peel back the wheel liner, you will see that there is a black rubber hose that connects to a nipple on the washer fluid tank. Reconnect this hose to the nipple, and secure it with a small hose clamp (so that you don't have this issue again).
  22. The Boxster doesn't have a timing belt- it utilizes a timing chain, and you're not going to have to replace that. What you do need to change is the polyrib serpentine belt which operates the engine's accessories like the water pump, a/c, alternator, etc. Porsche recommends changing this belt at the 60K mile service interval. It's a very simple and straight forward procedure. Here are the instructions: http://www.realtime.net/~rentner/Blog/B600...7809/index.html
  23. Yep, that's me. :) Wanted to change my handle on PPBB over to Boxtaboy too, but figured people would get confused, so I kept it. Thanks for the explanation on the locking bar!! I'll give it a shot once my new ones are delivered. Cheers. Ha ha, I should change mine here to match over there and elsewhere..... Burg Boxster. So that's who you are! Was wondering how you knew who I was. :) Thx. again for your help, Burg.
  24. dl? Anyhow, it's super easy. Just tried it w/ mine. Once you get the headlight out, look at the bar (#10 in diagram you linked). On the front trunk side (inward side), next to the white nylon bushing, there is a split washer in a notch on the bar. Using pliers, pull it off (it keeps the bar from sliding too far inward). Then just slide the bar inward another 1/2 inch or so and lift up on the outward side which is now free from the housing. And just slide the whole thing outward to free the inboard side. Done. Yep, that's me. :) Wanted to change my handle on PPBB over to Boxtaboy too, but figured people would get confused, so I kept it. Thanks for the explanation on the locking bar!! I'll give it a shot once my new ones are delivered. Cheers.
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