nycebo

Try holding the clutch in when you turn off the car and see if this resolves some of the clunk.

As a frame of reference, I am running 15W-50 currently is colder temperatures than you (I live in NYC) and have NOT noticed any problem with a rough idle. Does it idle roughly on cold start or when warmed up, or both?

I have road rash on my right rear wheel from taking a corner a little too tightly as well. It drives me nuts. When I switch to summer rims, I'm going to have them touched up too. What can I say, I watch corners and parallel parking very closely now to prevent a repetition.

Let us know how it turns out.

Yup, bigger tires in the rear will induce more understeer.

Completely agree with Nick. While I don't have the PSE (I use Ruf cans), I can't ever imagine wanting to be quieter. In fact, I purposely rev a little longer to hear the blissful symphony while driving. Indeed, now that my hardtop is on the car for winter, the exhaust is sealed off more from me and I can't wait until spring when I can once again unleash the beast.

While the electronic switch may be cool to have, I question if you would have actually use it. Indeed, the first thing that I would do is make sure that the mid-rev bypass is deactivated.

I get about the same as most others here...a combined 20 miles per gallon highway and city driving. Of course, I always drive in a most spirited fashion, so I wouldn't be surprised to get a bit better if I knew how to lighten my right foot.

The advice about using the brakes to slow is well taken. I'll have to get into the habit of not using the engine to slow going forward but I oh so like the feeling on downshifts.

All,

I just had Reus Systems install "The System" in my 2000 C2 Cab and all I can say is "Holy sonic booms batman!!" It has a sub in the spare and a sub in the passenger footwell along with replacement speakers all around. Oh, I also have tweets in the rear-view mirror pointing forward. The imaging is amazing and the system is crystal clear (even at 90 w/ top down!). It is, by far, the best sounding, non-intrusive system I have ever heard. I'm using the stock head unit, so at first glance, it doesn't look like anything's been done but when you crank it up.....

To answer a question about getting the bass up front, the sub in the spare is ported in through the hole where the steering column would be in a RHD (British) vehicle. Amazing engineering.

What did the total package cost you, if you don't mind my asking. Just interested in a range more than anything else becuase I love the notion of keeping a stock look and it sounds like this is just what you got. Also, do they install on the east coast (NYC area)?

You are the man, Rob. Thanks a ton!

Hey guys, and probably Loren in particular,

I need to replace a part for my cabriolet's hardtop and am having trouble identifying the part to show to the guys so I can re-order it. Basically, it is the small plastic washer/wedges that fit between the car and the hardtop cover. They are made out of that same plastic material as the locking latch cover between the front sun visors. They appear intended to protect the car from the hardtop while the hardtop is resting in place (the screw down bolts that fit into the car would rest on these plastic washer things). They are rectangularish shaped, from memory about 2 in x 1.5 in, and have a hole in the middle about the size of a silver dollar. The screw-type locking mechanisms by the pop-up roll-bars go right through these little guys to protect the fabric.

Anyway, if any of you know the part number on the diagram, or better yet, have a photograph of one of these little things, I'd really appreciate it so I can better explain it to the parts guy.

Cheers,

Green doesn't mesh up so well with the car though. Do you know if they also sold the Amber? I'd like to keep the interior look as uniform as possible.

Here ya go:

http://www.bahntech.com/products/AutoTop/p...ertible_top.asp

What would be cool is if we could figure out a way to have the LED in the amber color rather than the red color. THe heated seats have the capacity to go from Red to Amber to off, so perhaps there is an amber LED that can fulfill this role?

If the intermittent wipers work then likely the steering wheel stalk (switches) are working - as is the intermittent relay. The headlight washer relay could be the problem. It is in position 8 (second row from the top third relay from the left). It should have part number 996.618.113.00 on it. Unfortunately that relay (part number) is only used for the headlight washers. So, you will either have to borrow one from another car to test or buy a new one - about $71.00 -- retail (as of Jan 2006).

Loren, it's frightening how much of a BEAST you are. I may never need to go in for a service problem again.

:clapping:

You're right: it happens. Though oddly enough, my 2000 cab xenons still seem good though in truth, the lights aren't often used since the car only has 8000 miles. So, perhaps instead of age, it has more to do with usage. How many miles does your car have?

I do not know of any TSBs for the accelerator pedal but I have heard of them getting dirty and giving "poor feel". I think the design changed a couple of times from 2000 to 2003 (for eGas cars) so if you replace it I think you will get the new design. Check with the folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer cost) about which pedal assembly will fit your car and pricing.

Thanks a ton. It'll be my first task of the day! Of course, maybe it'll even be reason enough to go with aluminum pedals. :clapping:

Hey Guys,

The accelerator pedal on my 2000 C2 Cab has a squeak/slight-stick that is noticeable when very slightly modulating the pressure. Frankly, it is starting to drive me crazy, particularly when needing to very accurately adjust my speed in corners. I have taken the car to the dealer twice to see if they can fix the problem and they lubed everything (including the pedal, throttle cable, etc), but sadly to no avail. Having placed my ear as close as possible to the pedal, it seems to emminate EITHER directly from the pedal joint OR directly from the little metal flange attached to the rear center of the pedal that actually controls the throttle. I tried lubing those myself but the problem has not resolved.

Having searched through the TSBs, I couldn't find anything, but I was wondering if you or any other members might have experienced this problem and if so, what I might be able to do about it. Otherwise, Loren, are you aware of a TSB that I might have overlooked?

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Has anybody installed the new cab top locking kit that suppose to stop your cab top from groaning? The new TSB was released in Jan. 2005 and affects vehicles with a production date of 8/2004 and earlier.

This the screw down type rear locking mechanism as opposed to the bayonet type.

Thanks!

(edit - I have removed the attached TSB - as these are only for Contributing Members - Loren)

Loren, I couldn't find the TSB that you mentioned above and sinc eI have a Cab, I am VERY interested. Thanks.

Hi, my 6 speed had the same thing when I got it. I was able to balance out the difference by driving and adjusting as recommended by the guy I bought it from. There was more travel into certain gears then other. It was not a problem until I noticed that certain gears weren't engaging fully and occasionally would not stay in gear. With the problem of hitting a little something when heading into gear, I adjusted the blue connector until I got a uniform engagement (note this is with the engine off), then I started to adjust...

I don't find the SSK notchy at all (but I am running an OEM setup). It is crisp. If there is any notchiness, then it only exists when running through the detante at neutral. The feeback is sublime. As for the clack at the top of shifts, my experience would suggest that it is normal. As Dell mentions, it IS a bolt-action feel that very much adds an auditory feedback to shifts. It doesn't sound abnormal; it sounds deliberate and engaging. Indeed, if I didn't have the feedback, I might be uncertain as to whether the shifter was fully in place. However, I will add that this feedback is only at the end of shifts, not during the upshift.

Good luck and enjoy your shifters.

RCG412,

I go to Pepe Porsche in White Plains, NY. Have tried Manhattan Motorcars and New Country in Greenwich (which wasn't bad when it was independently owned) and they always seem to give me the runaround on service and screw me on pricing. That's what nice about Pepe: they're independently owned, the shop only services Porsche, and they handle my warranty needs. Maybe after warranty is up after two years, I'll try an indy, but frankly, Marc and John at Pepe have always been very responsive to my needs.

Your transmission sounds like it is fried, as well as the clutch. But if the service tech can't reproduce the problem, then ask him to accompany you while you drive the car around and point it out to him when it occurs. Perhaps you are just shifting incorrectly (I know, even if it's highly unlikely) and he could point out to you what you are doing wrong.

As an aside, you can always try another dealer. I can't imagine that Beverly Hills is going to have the most patient people. Here in New York, I drive the car 30 miles out of the city for service.

So, unless you can somehow make a 0W40 oil protect my engine better than a 15W50 oil at engine temperatures above 230F, I think I'll stick with my uneducated and ignorant decision to use 15W50.

Great post. Given that Mobile doesn't make a 5W50 motor oil, do you think that Castrol is still very reputable? Since it does get pretty cold up here this time of year, I'd feel more comfortable using at least a 5W, particularly if I make weekend ski runs up to Vermont where it can get very very very very cold (I've skied in -25 degree F weather). Thanks.

The fact is, a 15W50 oil flows the same as a 0W40 oil all the way down to 14 degrees and a 5W50 flows the same all the way down to -20F.

It's hard to argue with that logic, and the 50 will save the trouble of having to worry about temps in the summer when it breaks into the 90s here.

Porsche publishes a new "Approved Oil" bulletin every year. Contributing Members here can view the current bulletin online here.

Joel and Bruce are tremendous resources to the Porsche community but sometimes their information is not current. Mobil 1 5W-50 has been off the "Approved Oils" list for over two years.

Loren, if you look at the date of their post, you'll notice that it's from Feb 2002. I just posted it because my car is a 2000 and it was one of the more pertinent of their responses. I am optimistic that they have the newer bulletin.

Okay, I went to PCA (Joel Reiser is one of the more knowledgeable and informative guys out there) to find more detail on oil (https://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={D511B82E-9AE1-4564-8F74-724C0847AD24}). Here's what he had to say:

"The 15W-50 is for warmer climates and/or tougher service, and the 0-40 is for cooler climates. I hope I did not misunderstand the question. 0 will flow better at a lower temperature than 15 will. Likewise the 50 will handle the higher temps better than the 40 will. In warmer weather and on the track I run the 15-50, whereas I run 0-40 in my street car for the cold winter weather. So I would say 'no, it only has advantages for the colder weather'.

Since publishing the note above, I have additional information from Bruce Anderson and Peter Smith to pass along. Porsche is currently recommending the following in Technical Bulletin 1701, "Engine Oils Approved by Porsche":

Castrol/Syntec 5W-50

Exxon/Superflo Supreme Special 15W-40

Mobil 1 5W-30, 10W-30, and 15W-50

Sunco Synturo Gold 5W-40

Havoline Formula 3 synthetic 5W-40

Valvoline/ High Performance Synthetic 5W-30

Note that Mobil1 0W-40 was not available yet at that point in time.

We are thinking that Porsche favors the 40 top weight over the 50 for street use because it is friendlier to the hydraulic valve adjusters (993 and 986/996) and other areas of the VarioCam valve train (986/996). In the case of the former, we have seen some of these newer cars struggle to achieve compression on startup in certain circumstances because the hydraulic valve adjusters are not pressurizing correctly.

So the revised answer is 'yes, it offers valvetrain advantages provided you keep the oil temperatures within specs'. In other words I will still run 15W-50 in my GT3 Cup car with the hydraulic valve adjusters because it is still heavier duty service than a 0-40 would be best for. But on the newer street cars the 0-40 is probably better if your climate is not hellaciously hot and you don't overdrive the car.

Joel Reiser / Bruce Anderson- PCA Website 2/02"

He also wrote (https://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={512C8E59-91E5-4222-A730-89791DA56B43}):

"Just a little over a month ago on 11-30-01, Porsche issued a new oil bulletin that is significantly changed. The latest list of approved synthetic motor oils from Porsche includes Mobil 1 0W-40, Mobil 1 5W-40, Valvoline High Performance Synthetic, 5W-30, and there is also a Castrol/Syntec 5W-50 listed. As before, Porsche says the oils can be used for all 4, 6, and 8 cylinder Porsche engines from 1973 on. The Mobil 1 0W-40 now comes in all the new Porsches, including the Turbos, but some owners have had a problem finding it in retail outlets. The biggest change in this latest data is that temperature charts lowered the upper limit on the 0W-30 synthetic oils that were previously 40C (104F) to 30C (86F). These newest Porsche temperature charts do not show a synthetic 10W-30, but do show 10W-40s and 5W-40s going to a higher (but undefined) temperature limit than the 0W-30 synthetic oils which have the revised lower maximum limit of 86F ambient temperature. We will keep trying to learn more about these changes and pass them on, but in the meantime, I guess I would feel better about a 5W-40 or higher oil for running under warm ambient temperatures."

So, I don't know whether the smart thing is to go with 0W-40 or 5W-40 from here on. Since I am in the northeast, I'll likely stick with 0W-40. 1999Porsche911, I get what you are saying, and always prefer to err on the side of caution, but do you think that the 15W-50 is really that much better or more warranted?

Cheers.