HalM

Humm, that is contrary to how I have been reading the codes . I have the paperwork from the factory that came with the replacement motor in my car that the PO bought. My car is a 1999 and the serial number includes 66X. But the paperwork is dated December 23, 2005. I would think it is highly unlikely the factory built enough motors in 1999 to stay in stock for up to 5 years.

Complete serial number is M96.01AT66x66691 if someone can explain it better.

Thanks

That engine was originally manufactured in 1999. It could have been (factory) rebuilt any time between 1999 and 2005 when it was put in your car.

Loren, thanks. That makes complete sense now. Much appreciated. :)

Humm, that is contrary to how I have been reading the codes . I have the paperwork from the factory that came with the replacement motor in my car that the PO bought. My car is a 1999 and the serial number includes 66X. But the paperwork is dated December 23, 2005. I would think it is highly unlikely the factory built enough motors in 1999 to stay in stock for up to 5 years.

Complete serial number is M96.01AT66x66691 if someone can explain it better.

Thanks

This is pretty mundane info, but I thought I would pass it along.

I have a '99 with standard stereo and speakers. The fronts were totally shot so I started researching replacements. While there are ways to mount new 4" speakers or better in the car, it seemed like a project that I didn't really want to take on, especially since the car will be used mostly for DE's.

Then a couple of weeks ago when I was at the dealer picking up a few other parts, I asked about factory replacement speakers. And sure enough, they are available from Germany, even in my Savannah Beige color. And my cost would be under $130. BINGO! For my needs, that was a winner.

They came in this week and it took all of 10 minutes to install them. The extra added bonus was these had tweeters while my originals did not. Maybe my car is a really early build (I haven't looked) but this was a pleasant, positive, surprise. I know this is not a solution for the audiophiles in the crowd, but for someone just wanting decent sound at a reasonable price, this is pretty good.

22. It was a 1966 911 and was 6 years old at the time. :)

Thanks for clarifying. I'll pass this along to my guys.

Excellent ideas. Thanks.

When you say a "little more negative camber on the right," do you mean front, or front and rear?

Thanks for the quick reply!

Front Left:

Camber -0.4

Caster 7.3

Toe Out 1/32

Front Right:

Camber -0.4

Caster 7.8

Toe Out 1/32

Left Rear:

Camber -1.2

Toe +3/32

Right Rear

Camber -1.2

Toe + 3/32 inch

The following sheet shows before and after.

I picked up my '99 996 a few weeks ago. I am a long time Porsche owner but this is my first 'water cooled" car. So far I love it.

When I was looking, this car met all my criteria. During the test drive I noticed a slight pull to the right. This was no big deal because I planned a complete suspension refresh. CarFax was clean and it passed a PPI at a well known east coast Porsche race shop with no signs of damage.

My suspension refresh included a nice set of used PSS9's, all new suspension bushings from Elephant Racing, a couple of new rear drop links, new (turbo) motor mounts, new front rotors, all new OEM brake pads and stainless brake lines. And of course a corner balance and alignment. The work was done by a well known shop here in Charlotte that I have used for years with my air cooled cars. The guys there used to crew professionally for a Trans Am team and are highly proficient.

On my first test drive yesterday after all the work was completed, the car continued to drift ever so slightly to the right. We took it back to the alignment rack and tweaked a setting or two but it still likes to drift right.

I am using the term "drift" because it is not a hard pull. And this "drift" is independent of the crown in the road. On a typical 4 lane highway, the drift is most noticeable in the right lane, but it will ever so slowly show itself in the left lane.

Is there an alignment step that is not obvious? Is caster none adjustable in a stock setup? My thoughts are the Bridgestone tires have radial pull. is that still common in modern tires?

Any and all thoughts are welcome.

1999 996

Becker 210

Model R3297

Serial number W5023840

Thanks!

Try 6392

Excellent. Thank You!!!

1999 996

Becker 210

Model R3297

Serial number W5023840

Thanks!

Great DIY. This was so much easier than the same issue was on my 993. My total time was less than 30 minutes.

As 911 Dark said above, you might salvage the 2 plastic end fasteners, but I would suggest just getting new ones before you start. They were not packed with my bellows. I ended up going to a big box home improvement store and getting a couple 0.5 inch screws with a low profile head and nut to use.

Also I would have new circa clips ready before you start. I did salvage all of mine but they don't look to be in the best of health after 12 years.

Repeat: Reman engine probably means no IMSB retrofit for your car.

I think this might be a "is the glass have full or half empty" type of dilemma. And it was my biggest concern. Obviously with an original or 2 row IMS you can install the LN Engineering upgrade. And that is important to a lot of folks. Any for the final version, you cannot and that restraint will put off a number of buyers.

After a lot of research, I could not find measured or anecdotal evidence of IMS failures for the final version. In other words, it seems to me that the final version IMS was pretty good. And this is what I have purchased. As a matter of fact, I leave in 2 hours to drive 200 miles to pick it up. That is not to say I won't put Jake's new Guardian on my car when it is released, but that I feel the 3rd rev of the IMS is OK and not something to lose sleep over.

YMMV

I just went through the learning curve of buying one of these myself. FWIW, here are my thoughts. 1.) At that mileage and age, I would guess it has the original IMS. I would just bite the bullet and get the LN Engineering upgrade installed. 2.) Change all the fluids including the brakes. 3.) Check the date codes on the tires. You don't want to be driving around on any of the originals.

I am sure I missed something, but it looks like a great buy. I am sure you will enjoy it.