tmc

Would this cause the B&M to make a clunky noise when you move the stick around? I noticed my B&M is noisier than the stock unit. There is a tiny bit of play when you move the stick around and it makes a clunky noise. I wonder if there is a way to make it operate more quietly.

Yes, probably. I went back in and re-tightened the bolt and then tightened the lock washer, and it no longer rocks around.

I would normally say to make sure the cruise control conntector is plugged in, but you say you checked.

Next would be the switch on the end of the stalk. I think Richard Hamilton can tell you how to check the switch.

Check to see that all the wires on the clutch pedal switches are connected.

The only other thing I can suggest is to put your old 3 stalk/switch assembly back in and see if it works.

Hi Tool Pants,

I tried the swap of putting the 3-stalk back in and the same behavior results: no cruise, no light in the cluster when I press the switch, nada.

Where is the clutch pedal switch?

Thanks

tmc

When you push the switch at the end of the cruise control stalk does the green indicator light in the instrument cluster come on?

No it doesn't.

Uh... black is power - brown is ground.

Not sure how I could get that reversed, but anyway, I didn't mess with either the female or male side of the connector.

Guess I'll either live w/o cruise or take it to a dealer :(

Did you plug in the connector to the cruise control stalk?

:D Yeah I did that, or at least I think we're talking about the same thing. There's a small four-wire connector that comes off of the stalk assembly. Wires out of that connector were, if I recall, a brown/yellow wire, a yellow wire, a blue wire and a black wire. The black was the only one I could trace with my ohm meter (it's ground....)

Thanks Loren!

Do you know where the cruise control unit is located physically?

Maybe I bumped a lead off when I did my OBC hack.

tmc

I rechecked (twice).

The OBC works and yeah, I had someone turn it on before I did the retrofit.

Do you know if the cruise control goes through the cluster, and if so, is it through the same (white) connector, or through the blue or black one?

It seems the key wire out of the four-wire cruise control connector is the brown-yellow wire, but I don't see where else that goes.

thanks

tmc

Got a head scratcher here...

My local shop replaced the ignition switch on my 99 996 C2. I didn't use the cruise control after they did that.

A couple of days later, I did the OBC retrofit (yesterday).

The cruise control doesn't work (although everything else is fine).

I took things apart, traced things, etc, and can't figure out what's going on.

Is there a chance the ignition switch swap broke the cruise control somehow? (Any other theories?)

tmc

Is this going to be a daily driver or a weekend car?

A daily driver.

Then my vote is for a 997 C2S. Much more civilized, and a nicer "living space" (interior) as you noted. You will not have many chances to feel the performance differential in daily driving.

Is this going to be a daily driver or a weekend car?

Thanks!

:renntech:

Thanks Loren. The housing is in OK shape, but part #10 and (of course) #13 in your diagram are broken.

thanks again,

tmc

Posting this for someone who might find this topic and have the same questions:

You don't need the pins to be in tact. I found this out from Tool Pants' 9X6 Werks DVDs.

However, if the pins break off, they produce a rattle that will drive you insane.

The replacement is $101.55 from Sunset Auto.

It was worth it for my sanity.

tmc

I broke the side mirror on the passenger side. I have a 1999 996 C2.

Thanks in advance

Thanks for your help!

The first image is of the tab top (sorry it's blurry) sticking through the slot in the steering wheel. It slops around left to right in the slot:

This is of the broken tabs themselves:

Is there any other function to this ribon cable carrier besides transmitting signal to the steering wheel air bag and horn? Is it also a sensor?

Thanks!!

tmc

Thanks, Loren!

Is this really required to replace? There were enough of a tab left to fit in the notches of the wheel, but with a little "slop" as you turn it back and forth. It looks like that unit is just one long ribon cable wound up to guarnatee the air bag and horn are always connected to the rest of the car. All seems to work well (no airbag light, horn is fine, I don't notice anything strange when I drive it).

Thanks again

:renntech:

tmc

I swapped my steering wheel this weekend and, in spite of every DIY guide telling me to be careful about not breaking the plastic clips... I broke the plastic clips when taking off the old wheel.

Is 996 652 211 00 the right part number for the replacement? I have a 99 996 C2

tmc

Use a little Loctite.

Thanks for the reply Loren.

I tried blue loctite, didn't seem to hold it.

Is this a common problem with the B&M kit? If so, I'll buy the OEM SSK and ebay this mofo.

tmc

I installed a B&M short shifter in my 99 C2. I can't cinch the stop screw on the front bracket tight enough, it keeps on loosening. I've used the jam nut, but it doesn't stop it from loosening over the course of a day or so.

Any suggestions? Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Thanks!

tmc

Ok just tried it, and the short answer is YES the 997 and 996 "shift tower" are identical.

Nice to have a short throw shifter in the 996....... :D

I installed a short shifter in my 987S using the factory kit (which includes the shifter housing/frame). Now I got a B&M kit for my 996. I'm wondering if I can use the 997/987 "frame" on a 996. (If so, I can do the surgery to install the B&M in the spare frame, and thereby minimize the "down time" of my 996).

Do the two kits (996 and 997) have the same part numbers?

Tom

I installed a short shifter in my 987S using the factory kit (which includes the shifter housing/frame). Now I got a B&M kit for my 996. I'm wondering if I can use the 997/987 "frame" on a 996. (If so, I can do the surgery to install the B&M in the spare frame, and thereby minimize the "down time" of my 996).

Tom

Just brought home an 06 Boxster S and I noticed that the clutch engages very late. The pedal is almost fully extended before the clutch catches. Is this common and is there an adjustment to engage the clutch earlier?

Thanks

It's a german car thing. BMWs do this as well. I'm so used to it that I now have trouble driving american and japanese manual transmissions.

It turned out the dealer was RIGHT, and Sunset Imports (and Porsche NA) were wrong. Ultimately, the tech line of Porsche in Atlanta admitted their mistake and allowed the head unit to be exchanged.

If you want, put your service guy in touch with the service dept (and Chris Glen) at Leith Porsche in Cary, NC.

The dealer can't get it to work.

They said the head unit I got was the 997.642.101.11FMH unit, and that's the old/obsolite part that doesn't work with Bose sound nor with a front-trunk DVD drive.

They said the unit I need is the 997.642.101.11FMH unit.

Porsche is tellliing Sunset Imports that the .101.11FMH unit will work with my car.

My dealer can't even get the unit to turn on.

So who is right, the dealer or Sunset Imports?

Thanks

tmc