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Everything posted by Doug_B_928

  1. I sympathize with the OP. I recall several posts on forums over the years where someone changed the ATF and then had problems with the transmission. Based on the information provided, they did not appear to have problems prior to the fluid change. I recently asked a BMW service advisor this question re my 11 year old 335 (~55,000 miles) and he advised to leave it alone for this same reason...
  2. I had mine (2008 S) replaced by the dealer under warranty. I recall they said they had to remove quite a bit of the interior on the back side to get the job done.
  3. Search is your friend. One time I hit the rev limiter by waiting a fraction too long to upshift. Upon arriving home I immediately checked for overrevs and there were ignitions in ranges 1 and 2.
  4. Turns out the dealership had left the line loose that goes from the vacuum pump to the intake (it was loose on the intake side).
  5. Thanks, JFP. I put my mity vac on it with an attachment that fit inside the inner diameter of gas cap. I put pressure on it and it didn't hold, but I'm also not sure that this is the correct location to be testing. Is this the kind of equipment and test to which you were alluding?
  6. I'm having this fault in my 2008 Cayenne S, with the addition that Durametric says under the fault "No signal/communication." Is there a way to check the integrity of the gas cap, or do people tend to just replace it to see (it's about $40 CAD at the dealer)? Also, I had the car at the dealership about a month ago where they changed the injectors. Are any of the items in the list above under or near the intake such that this could be cause by something that the mechanic left loose?
  7. Update: All 8 injectors have been replaced. I've put over 300 kms on the car and it is idling perfectly. So, it would appear at this point that the injectors were, indeed, the issue.... time will tell for sure, but so far so god :).
  8. Yep, and, if the injectors (which I am still awaiting) don't fix it (unlikely) then the problem is probably one or more lifters stuck in the high lift position. BTW, where is the best place to get new lifters for a 2008 Cayenne S? I'm not finding them at the usual online suppliers (Pelican, ECS, Suncoast, Autopartsway).
  9. Me too. But they know cylinders 2 and 6 have leaking injectors. They are charging me for the injectors and labour, which is why I'm sceptical about changing all 8; especially since I also highly doubt that this is responsible for the codes and rough idle. I suggested that they replace 3 injectors (cylinder 1 is also suspect; I'll probably end up having all 8 done so that they'll be known to be good) and when the intake is off we should be able to manually inspect how much the intake valves open (set each cylinder in turn to TDC on exhaust stroke and then observe how much the valves open on
  10. Update: I took the car to the dealer a week and a half ago. It had finally thrown a CEL and valve lift codes had returned along with a couple of misfire codes. They were a bit bewildered. They did find two injectors leaking and want me to authorize 8 new injectors. They said there is a TSB on the injectors. I'm wondering why change them all if only two are leaking. Their technical advisor is saying that the leaking fuel injectors could cause the valve lift fault, but they can't be sure.
  11. Thanks, Lewis. He did a great job of detailing his problem. I'm not getting misfire codes and his symptoms are a bit different (his alternating between what appeared to be the lifter getting stuck in high and low positions). I'll talk to the dealer about it again this week when I'm there picking up the cowl end cap that I broke (cheap plastic crap) when taking it off to do the solenoid. It makes sense to me that my lifter on cylinder 3 could be stuck in the high lift position, so not switching to low lift below 1400 RPM. But, the code is intermittent and when I watch the 'lifter roughness
  12. Thanks for checking, Lewis. When I was at the dealer for diagnosis I did ask them about a stuck lifter. They were fairly adamant that a stuck lifter would be causing a CEL. Do you recall who the fellow was with the stuck lifter? I'd like to PM him to see if he recalls a CEL or any codes he was getting.
  13. Update: I took the car to the dealer and, as suspected, they diagnosed the trouble code as the valve lifter solenoid. They said replacing it has always solved the problem in the past. So I spent last weekend doing the replacement. I have a write-up forthcoming on that. Unfortunately, the rough idle persists. So even the pros are a bit confused by this one. I'll probably order new plugs soon and, if that doesn't work, then bite the bullet ($$$) and replace the remaining 7 original coils.
  14. From what I recall one should test from the little barbed fitting and it should have a vacuum of .5 bar (which I think is about 15 in Hg). My wife just got home with the car so I put my mityvac on the T for that goes to the smaller fitting on the vacuum pump and I got a reading of 26 in Hg, rock steady.
  15. I don't know much about this but I'll chime in given no one has responded to your query. I hooked a mighty vac to the smaller fitting (mine has a T in the hose that comes off of that fitting with a cap on it that one can pull off to put a vacuum tester on). I'm not familiar with the code you're getting. When I put my mityvac on that fitting with the engine idling it read -75psi. I was looking to see if the vacuum was steady, which it was; I had been told that a fluctuating vacuum indicates a leak.
  16. Thanks, Lewis. I'll look into the M1 Engine Flush. But I should clarify that the only code that is occurring is the 1355 (the others in my first post in this thread have not come back since changing the battery). Not sure if that affects your thoughts on the cause but I just thought I should make that clear given that you implicate the O2 sensor voltage code in leaning toward the sticking valve lifter.
  17. Update: So I sprayed carb cleaner to hunt for vacuum leaks and did not find any (doesn't mean there aren't any as I was a bit nervous about the fire hazard and so may not have been as thorough as I could have). I checked the engine stabilizer bar and the rubber looks fine. I also switched coils between cylinders 3 and 7, cleared the fault, and after a bit of driving the fault came back on cylinder 3. There is another thread on this list (something like 'Cayenne S Rough Idle Resolved') where the problem turned out to be the variable valve lift hydraulic valve. His codes were not the same
  18. Thanks, Don, for taking the time to look at the info and respond. No loss of interest, just a combination of lack of time and trying to be penny-wise. I visually inspected everything for cracks and put my mityvac on the tester port by the vacuum pump. Figured I'd need a smoker to test better but your carb cleaner idea is an interesting one. If I attempt that I'll wait until it's nice enough outside and will have my wife watching with fire extinguisher in hand :) . Good to know hot film MAFs can actually be cleaned. Air filters in it have always been factory or OEM. I'm aware that coils
  19. I think what I've taken pics of below are the camshaft position sensors. The right bank's sensor has a lot of oil residue around it. I looked with a mirror and it doesn't appear to be coming from anywhere else. The sensor appears to be in tight, though I didn't try to tighten it further. Does the oil residue around it indicated not only some kind of seal issue but also a potential problem with the sensor? Should I try removing it, cleaning it with a lint free shop towel, and seeing if that makes a difference to the idle? Or, should I switch it with the other side to see if I start gettin
  20. Update: I'm still having the idle issue. I removed and cleaned the throttle body. No improvement. Apparently this car has 'hot film' sensors that are not cleanable; at least that's what I read somewhere on the 'interwebs'. Not sure how to 'align' the throttle body. I tried removing the cap on the AOS but it really feels like I'm going to break it. I've seen the Pelican write-up and it looks simple, but it really does feel like it will break before it stretches enough to go over more than one tab at a time. I checked the vacuum at the T by the vacuum pump and got a steady -75psi. Does
  21. Purchased and installed a new battery today (got the same Varta from the VW dealer). The one in it was original, with 25/7 stamped on the ground post (I think the truck was built in July of 07; 9.5 years is pretty impressive). Cleared any faults, took it for a 20 minute ride, checked for faults and none found. But, the idle is unchanged. At idle, in Park, the set point calls for 580 and the actual idle fluctuates between 576 and 544, if I remember correctly. It's at the former more than the latter and the change back and forth is quite quick. This is a very minor vibration that you can p
  22. It's over 14 volts and steady when running, but I tested it with ignition off using a multimeter a couple of hours after returning from my trip and it measured 12.17 volts. I'll get a new battery tomorrow and report back.
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