Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

bar10dah

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    155
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bar10dah

  1. I've done it. It sucks. The intake plenum needs to come out. If you're mechanically inclined, should take close to a hour to get to the check valve. Then after remove/replace, take another hour to get it all back together.

    When I removed my check valve, the insides were rusted and corroded. Air blew both ways, so no longer a "check valve." Pain in the butt, but after replacement, and blowing out the lines, never had 0446 come back again.

  2. When I had the 1124/1126 codes, I replaced the upstream O2 sensors, the valve by the throttle body, the valve on the EVAP canister, the two valves on the SAI system, the AOS tubes (even the AOS), all the 4mm vacuum lines, the vacuum canister (I broke it), IACV (and associated gasket), the oil filler tubes, gas cap w/ o-ring, oil cap w/ o-ring, dipstick o-ring, and tightened/retightened all the connections on the intake system. Might have been more, but can't remember right now. I didn't mind throwing parts at the problem because it was a 13 year old car and probably needed those new parts anyways. But none of it fixed my codes from reappearing. I eventually sold my car due to leaving the country for a while (don't worry, I'm not on the run...). I definitely disclosed the problem to the new owner, who was happy with my honesty, and bought my car and associated problem. I threw in an Actron code reader so he could verify those were the only two codes in the system and could reset the CEL whenever they reappeared. I still don't know what caused those codes. But it didn't affect power and it didn't affect mileage. And the codes would only appear after idling for five minutes (one of the emissions checks, but can't remember which one). Seriously, I did a 700 mile drive one day and the codes never reappeared. But as soon as I got off the interstate and had gone through a couple traffic lights, the codes came back.

  3. this is your "Best Answer."

    Another thought...because of the codes p1237, p1238,p1239,p1240,p1241 and p1242 injector circuit open cylinder 1-6. I starting to think electrical issue. Thoughts ???? I know I didn't have 6 injectors die at the same time....thanks

    All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage.

    While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue.

  4. No worries! Sometimes we get so frustrated with our machines, we forget not to be too harsh with our loved ones who don't know anything about the mechanics of how machines work and unintentionally just drive them into the ground.

    How's Casa Grande? I did a quick landing at the airport there sometime around 2007, but didn't stay long. That place just exploded over the last several years! I remember seeing a huge shopping area had sprouted up right next to the 10. Phoenix slowly expanded out that far yet?

  5. I called her back to tell her what I had found mechanic wise, and she said she had driven it on to Santa Fe. She said it was fine as long as she stayed out of 6th gear and didn't rev the engine too much. I'm not real happy she did that.

    And, don't be too hard on your wife. She didn't want to be stranded away from her destination any more than you wanted her to not drive it the rest of the way. ;)

    Hope you get it figured out and it's not as bad as it seems.

  6. Okay, these are my guesses. Someone that actually has a 4-way splitter system can give you better advice.

    I can't tell in the pic if it's connected, but that black/white valve needs to connect to the throttle body sleeve. More specifically, the black side of that valve connects to the sleeve and the white side to the 4-way splitter.

    The blue circle in the second pic should connect to the pink in the second pic. In the first pic, it's the blue to purple.

    Green in both pics should go to the switch that controls the resonance flap.

    I really can't tell what the red is in the second pic. Is that the same as the yellow in the first pic?

  7. Looking at your picture again, I may be wrong. It appears that valve where the blue and the green are is probably your switch for the resonance flap valve? Which, is probably under the driver's side manifold?

    I'm seriously having a hard time visualizing this. Which direction in the picture is forward?

    It appears, using the chart in post #3 of the link to Pelican you provided:The black dome thing in the bottom right of your picture is F.The black/white valve to the right of the purple in your picture is H.The switch with the blue and green is probably J. Find K and you'll see where to connect green to.

    If that switch is truly J, then connect blue to purple.

    I really can't tell what the red is. A better picture of it may help.

    And neither the yellow. What does the other end connect to?

  8. Nope, never did find the source of my codes.

    I ended up selling the car. Not because of the problems, but because I don't need a car for a while. I fully disclosed the codes to the new owner and told them the troubleshooting stuff I've done so far. They were much appreciative.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.