Bruce in Philly

Never mind... got it.

I soaked it last night in PB Blaster... then put I vice grip on it... no go... .then I sprayed some compressed air... the computer/camera dust blower stuff... if you hold the can upside down, it freezes whatever... so I shot some in the tube.. froze it, then put on the vice grips and it just moved fine... pop.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S 154K miles

I am replacing the whole wheel carrier.... how in the heck to I get the parking cable off of the carrier?   I really would like to remove the metal tube from the carrier as that goes into the new carrier.  Both sides are stuck solid.  My manual notes the cable should pull off of the tube.. it won't, but really that is only half the battle as I need that tube out of there too.  Thanx much!

Peace

Bruce in Philly

I believe it is fixed now ..... get the latest update.  My version would hang clearing 996 and 997.1 and now it worked fine.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

3 hours ago, dammad said:

Hi,

I replaced the oil level sender on my '09 and it was very straightforward. No need to calibrate it at all. Works well now.

Thanx for the response!   What were your symptoms that required (or make suspect) you to replace it?

Thanx again,

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S 110K miles

I am getting what I think are increasing erroneous oil level readings..... What finally tipped the scales for me was my last oil change, always DIY.   My oil read two open bars under full line... I checked this twice when hot. I drained out just under 8 quarts...... I added exactly 8 quarts.... now my gauge read at the lowest line, all mid bars open, I checked twice again the next day with now a FLASHING underfill.... So... I added just over 1 quart... now my meter read one over full!!!  Next day, exactly full.    Hmmmm........ am I too paranoid?  After I drained 8 and added 8, it should have read the same or one bar off either way if it was on the boarder.

Changing this sender out look stupid easy...... three torx and an electrical plug. Can do it at the next oil change. Porsche part no: 948 606 150 00
Some say the dealer has to calibrate this sender using their computer but I posted a question on the PCA site about calibration of this sender and never got a response.  Not sure if this is true or how important.... Any ideas?

Cheap, $98 and a good story to tell....... maybe my next oil change. Oh, it sits right next to the oil drain plug in a pan recess and bolts in straight up with plug pointing forward..... stupid easy.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

18 minutes ago, JFP in PA said:

 

If you are referring to the charcoal canister, it is self regenerating and should last the life of the car. 

Thanx Jeff,

In my parts Katalog for my 2009, it appears to be a paper unit 997-201-501-00 ...  check it out.  When I see these types of paper filters, I think it has a limited life.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Anyone know the maintenance interval on this filter?  I have a 2009 C2S with 105K miles.... time to replace it?

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S 101K miles

I posted here a long time ago about hesitation I get around 2800 - 3000 RPM when accelerating mildly.  Others have this but not all and it appears to be with our 2009 cars (although I've read it happens with other of the DFI years).  When I installed my Sharkwerks x pipe, I even hear a slight Pssht like a waste gate.  The car has done this consistently in my 75K miles of ownership and never threw a code.  My dealer experienced it, didn't know what it was, said there was no TSB, and "keep an eye on it".  great.  A Porsche tech on the PCA site suggested it is the variable lift and a flap in the intake triggering together.

Jeff: you suggested it may be a "lazy actuator" back then.  So now, I connected with a few folks who have this issue and have the Durametric software so now we want to get to the bottom of this..

So some Durametric questions:

1 - What in Live Values should we be checking for?

2 - What is the sampling rate in the software we should select?

3 - Any other tips for gathering Live Values

I suspect we will trigger the software "on", right before we invoke the hesitation, and then "off" immediately after.  I've done this before for tracking temps and such and the darn thing collects tons of samples fast.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Bonus question... any instructions out there on how to change these actuators?  There is one on each bank and located next to a spark plug hole and appear easy to replace when doing plugs.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

I need a recommendation for a home air compressor for filling my bicycle and car tires.... not much more than that.

- Size? I don't want the motor running if I have to fill two 75 Lb bicycle tires
- Hoses? Do I want a small unit that I can move around or a bigger one with long hoses? I friend had a small unit I didn't like as the hoses were hard plastic and not very flexible.
- Accessories? Basic stuff I will need or want? Fill presta and schrader nipples.
- Other uses for these compressors?

I have a battery powered unit now and find it a bit of a pain... it is noisy (I really don't like this noise) and way too slow.

Thanx
Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S

I replaced all speakers in my car with Focal units in a DIY project.  The results were good but not worth the effort.  It was a ton of work and you will need to Dremel the heck out of your car, speaker mounts, etc etc.... Most don't believe this, but if you want better sound, you need to change out the electronics and not the speakers.  These Becker-built electronics sound hard and harsh.  I heard a 2009 C2S like mine, side by side, that kept the Bose speakers and replaced the head unit and amplifiers (one for speakers, and a small one for the woofer) and the sound was really great.  Most think the speaker makes the sound but in reality, the quality we desire is made with the electronics.   Change the electronics and not the speakers.

Of course you could replace everything.   Ideally I wanted to just change the main amp but it is attached to the head unit via a proprietary digital cable and no company at this time makes an adapter therefore, on these PCM3 (997.2) cars, you need to change all electronics.  Again, I did the speakers and while there was improvement, it is just not worth it.

There is a large thread on 6speed where I contributed about my speaker replacement project.  Check it out.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Sorry about the nut size...... I could have sworn it was 20mm.

The tie rod puller......  It was to remove a control arm but not the bottom one.  You don't have to remove that lower arm, the one with the three bolts.  The rear shock on the 997.2 is a little different on the bottom and there is a control arm really close.  You just can't pull the bolt out without removing it.  This control arm that is in the way, I just removed the near bolt with the puller..... then had a friend bend it away with a crow bar... the other end is rubber bushing and it will move.     I remember I was tightening that puller down so darn tight, I though I was going to break something or was doing something wrong... when shooop, the bolt released.  If you try wacking the bolt, you will damage it.

Good luck,

Bruce in Philly

20mm for the fronts for my 2009 C2S with PASM    I don't know if the rears were different.

I just replaced all four shocks and found it a tough job.  One of the issues was the bolt sizes denoted in all the 997.1 were all wrong for my 997.2 and I had to run out and buy wrenches.  In short, I needed every darn bolt size.   They used every size that was NOT included in sets sold at Autozone... I had to buy a bunch of solo wrenches.   I didn't inventory them, but just get like ALL of them.  With PASM on the 997.2 you have this crazy washer under the nut.  It is no problem in the rear as the shaft stays put when you turn the nut (loosen on the car, then remove the shock).  For the fronts, you have this crazy bronze washer that turns with the shaft.  It has nubs that accept some sort of mystery tool.  When you turn the nut, the shaft and washer turn so you can't break the **** thing free.  I used a huge plumbers pipe wrench on it to counter the nut.

To summarize, the 997.1 instructions out there are not quite correct as the 997.2 has differences.  That is OK, but you will also need a tie rod puller.... you must remove one end of a rear control arm in the rear to remove the lower shock bolt.  No way could I do this without the puller (get the large one).  Also, you will need another floor jack for the rears... you will need to place it under the edge of the shock to push it up a tiny bit to remove pressure off of the bolt.  The shock, even with the springs compressed, applies pressure on the carrier and therefore the shock bolt is jammed tight.  By placing a floor jack and just catching the edge of the shock, you can compress the shock to remove pressure.

Another quick tip:  you do NOT have to compress the springs on the front shocks to remove them from the car.  Don't waste you time doing this.  I suspect, you don't need the compressors for the rears either, especially if you use the floor jack as I noted... but I only realized this after I did the work on the rears.  You will need the spring compressors once the shocks are off of the car to then disassemble the strut.

Ping me if you have any more specific questions.

Peace,

Bruce in Philly

The Evil Washer, nut is removed:

Thanx Jeff, I think it is the little interface tube between the tank and pump also.  Why?  The tank wiggles for one thing, and second, the #6 screw is missing.... but there is no hole in the plastic flange!!!!  Have you ever seen this before?  There is no hole in the tank to insert that #6 screw.

Do you have any access to pump/tank remove replace instructions?  It looks pretty tight in there.... may have to remove the alternator.... yikes!

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Hi Loren/Jeff:

2009 C2S 93K miles

I have a Power Steering leak.  I ran out of fluid, got the noise, refilled.  Do you have any advice as to where these leaks occur?  See pics below where I have one dirty and one cleaned up.  The gunk was even on the side of the tank, above the pump.  It appears heaviest around the metal hose fitting, but that may not be the source of course.  The pump does not make any noise.  The tank jiggles just a bit... I wonder if this is the issue.

Thanx much,

Bruce in Philly

Never mind... I just ordered four Porsche shocks.  The ones that came with the car are Bilsteins if anyone wants to know.  Their logo is stamped on the upper part of the tube.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S 91K miles  PASM

Hello,

My alignment shop noted to me today all four shocks are leaking.  Great.   The Porsche labeled shocks are pretty expensive..... I noticed the Bilstein models are cheaper but are they "the actual" shock?  I am not interested in improving or changing my suspension, but if there is the same "OEM" out there, I don't mind saving some money.

Porsche Part Numbers:  Front: 997-343-045-22 and  Rear997-333-053-30

Possible Bilstein Part Numbers: Front: 35-118251 OE HD and 22-147530 OE       Rear: 26-118260 OE HD and 26-147543 OE

Odd, Bilstein has two shocks it denotes as OE for the 2009 C2S, one is denoted HD and other not.  Hmmmm... any insights?

Advice?

Peace

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S,

JFP, you noted that you should fill using only the lower (one on the right in your picture).  Well, my indy used the upper one to fill..... he then said it needed more oil (I supplied three liters of PTX) and I pointed out the lower plug.  He pulled that plug and a drip came out and he confirmed it was full by putting in an "L" allen wrench.  (THe indy has been working on Porsches for many years but mine was the first 997,2 he saw hence the error.

So... what is or was wrong with filling from the upper plug?  I certanly hope the two holes are connected to the same tank behind no?

Thanx

Bruce in Philly

Fantastic, thanx!

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Thanx man, I think I found it with your help..... but before I declare you "Master of all things Car", help me understand how this stuff works.

I think I had screwed on the oil filler cap incorrectly... I topped off the oil the morning I tripped the codes.  In my haste, I think I kinda cross-threaded it and it was crooked.  Could this be introduction of air into the system?  The car now runs smooth as silk... really well.

So, I also cleaned the MAF too so I want to be sure it was the oil filler cap.   The MAF is common to both banks.... couldn't the problem be from a faulty MAF?  Why is there a vacuum/air line from the oil filler tube/sump back into the intake?  Is this the PVC system?

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Hmmm...... why do you believe this?  Is it above around the airbox and those big rubber hoses?  In other words, can I find it myself?

Thanx JFP

Peace

Bruce in Philly

I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner...... reset the codes with my Durametric....... took it for spin and heated everything up..... no check engine light.... hmmmm we will see.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

Got the check engine light last night and got the following:

7101: Lambda control adaptation, bank 1: system too lean   Upper limit value exceeded

7401: same as above, bank 2

Any ideas?  Odd, nothing came up on the Google.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

 I would start by looking at the cam deviation values on both banks; as the VarioCam+ kicks in, the deviation values should both be moving in the same direction by approximately the same amount with climbing RPM.  If the suspect bank is not following the opposite bank, the actuator's are probably on the way out.  I would, however, expect the car to code is one actuator is problematic. 

 

Thanx JFP,  I think you mistyped that last sentence and I think you meant that if one actuator was a bit lazy, it would throw a code.  It is not throwing any codes at all. 

This issues is the classic hesitation at around 2700-2800 RPM that various folks have complained about...  I know of no one who replaced these actuators.... I was just thinking of a hail mary pass and was thinking of trying it.

Thanx for the advice.  Using the Durametric for this advanced stuff makes me nervous but I will give it a try when the weather improves here in Philly.

Peace

Bruce

9A1 105 308 03 VVS (02 superseded by 03 variable valve system actuator)

Anyone replace one?
What are the symptoms?
How do you identify which one may be lazy?

How many per bank?  The PET digram denotes (1) so I assume that is one per side no?

These appear very easy to replace as the sit next to the spark plugs.  I will be doing my plugs in a few months, early spring so I am thinking of just swapping these out.

The reason is that pesky hesitation I get under moderate load at around 2800 RPM.  The dealer, as others on various boards, think it is the variocam transition.  This looks like about a $150 dollar each part.  I am willing to throw $300 at this issue.

I do have the Durametric Pro.... but no clue as to what to look for regarding these actuators.

Peace
Bruce in Philly
2009 C2S Coupe

Thanx,

I should have mentioned that I replaced the links a few months ago. It improved as some kind of the noise stopped but another is still there.

All OEM.

I am just going to order those control arms and replace them. My experience with my Boxster and the trouble the dealer had in diagnosing them before they had experience points me there.

Peace

Bruce in Philly