mprowan87

On 7/4/2017 at 4:01 PM, 3.2ina996 said:

 

Just to be extra clear, the fuel return line is directly under the regulator in this picture, #8, correct? Fuel supply is on the opposite side. 

 

That is correct

 

Parts needed to make a "homemade smoke machine":

 

-Fog machine (the type people use for halloween props)  (can be found on eBay for cheap)

-Aquarium Air Pump (Walmart or Amazon)

-Cooler ($5 bucks at the thrift store)

-Vacuum hose (about 13 feet)

-2x Metal fittings that will fit into the vacuum hose (needs to be somewhat heat resistant)

-1 Gallon of Fog Solution (eBay)

-Surge Protector (to plug fog machine and aquarium pump into)

 

I bolted the fog machine to the top of the cooler and ran some vacuum hose from the output of the fog machine to a fitting that I drilled and pushed into the side of the cooler.  I then bolted the aquarium air pump to the inside of the cooler with its air line running to another fitting which exits the cooler.  Attached to the outside of the second fitting, I ran about 10 feet of vacuum line which attaches to a vacuum line on the engine.

 

To use, I put ice in the bottom of the cooler to increase the density of the fog.  Run the fogger for about 30 seconds to fill the cooler with fog, then plug in the air pump and the fog is pumped into the intake system.

 

Obviously the car should not be running when conducting the test.

 

As far as how it compares to an expensive commercial unit, I cannot say, because I have never used one.  I would imagine the commercial units would put more pressure in the intake which would make finding leaks easier, but the fish tank air pump provided enough pressure for me to find my leak.

 

I would estimate this setup cost me about $75-$100 after it was all said and done with.  Much better than the $800 you would shell out for a commercial one.

The fuel pump did solve the problem.  Some of the other symptoms were caused by an intermittent vacuum leak on the lower portion of the oil filler tube (the end that goes into the engine).

 

I tested for the vacuum leak with a homemade smoke machine.

also, it is not uncommon to see multiple owner boxsters. this makes sense from a practicality standpoint. when a baby comes along; boxsters have to go.

I would look at 2000 models and newer. The 97-99 have a 2.5 and different Bosch software than the latter years. Whichever route you go, you will want to perform the IMS replacement. I had never done a clutch replacement until I did mine. It was straightforward. One of the best aspects of owning a boxster is the infinite amount of online resources that cover just about anything that can go wrong.

Keep looking! I would also recommend investing 30 bucks and buying a Durametric style USB cable from ebay. They have knock off versions from hong kong. I have one and it works good enough to read the engine rev stats and operating hours of engine. (Range 1-ok; Range 2-bad). I would recommend purchasing the durametric tool itself if you end up getting a boxster, because the knock off version is pretty slow at reading operating parameters.

As with any used car purchase:

-check inside the gas lid-this often is a good way to tell how well the car was cared for prior to its "for sale detail"

-look at motor oil on dipstick for cleanliness

-check gauge cluster at startup to make sure ALL (abs, check engine, SRS, spoiler, seatbelt, etc.) the warning lights momentarily flash on when key is turned on.

-look for all accessories that are supposed to come with car (spare, tools, manual, tow "eye", keys, floormats)-i had to purchase most of these items. it got expensive quick!

Update:After almost 2 months of downtime, I finally got the car back together last week (had several projects I was working on while it was down).In regards to the fuel system, I removed and tested all lines/rails/regulator, cleaned and rebuilt injectors, replaced fuel filter, replaced all crankcase vacuum lines/intake vacuum lines/sensor orings on block (knock, oil pressure, etc)/intake plenum boots/intake manifold gaskets.The car still runs lean. Through process of elimination, I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump. In correlation with what JFP in PA said, it now sometimes takes a long crank cycle to fire (hot or cold), and I suspect the pressure is leaking down at the check valve or internally. The new pump will be here tomorrow or Tuesday. I will have an entirely new fuel system by the time this is finished, but hopefully it will save me some trouble down the road and I have sure learned a lot. JFP in PA; thank you so much for all your advice. The detailed information you provided me has been invaluable in my endeavor. I hope this thread can help others, as there is not much comprehensive information on the fuel system online. I will verify that the fuel pump resolves my issue after I get it installed. I feel certain it will though because it is all that is left. Thanks!

The fuel pressure regulator is closed when the car is not running (no vacuum). This functions as a shut off or check valve for the return side of the system to maintain pressure in the fuel rails. If the regulator did not do this, fuel pressure would bleed off via the return line, and momentarily make the care hard to restart, particularly when hot. When you run the fuel delivery test (engine off), the fuel flow from the pump opens the regulator, allowing the fuel into the return line. The fuel delivery rate out of the line leading to the fuel filter should be at least 850 cc or more. The “standard” delivery test (OEM service manual method) is done off the fuel return line, so you are seeing the entire fuel system delivery (pump, filter, regulator, fuel rails, fuel lines, etc.). If the return line flow is in bounds, everything else has to be OK by default. You should see three lines coming off the top of the fuel pump, one is fuel out from the pump (the turret), and the other two are the fuel return line and the tank vent line to the EVAP canister system. The main out line also has a check valve at the top of the pump to hold pressure while the car is sitting, otherwise pressure would bleed backwards into the tank, and you would have the same hot start issues that a bad pressure regulator would cause. On modern cars, the entire fuel system is a closed loop to prevent any hydrocarbon leaks to the atmosphere. When the engine is off, the system is entirely sealed. Any vapors generated in the tank are routed to the EVAP canister and stored in activated carbon. When the car starts, a small controlled amount of outside air is bled into the EVAP canister, across the carbon bed to pick up trapped vapors, to the tank vent, and into a purge line system that leads to a small valve at the intake manifold. When the car is running, these vapors are let into the intake at a controlled rate and burnt, so nothing escapes to the atmosphere. This EVAP purge system also acts as a fuel tank vent line to limit the vacuum level in the fuel tank, otherwise the pump would not be able to draw, and actually prevent excess vacuum from collapsing the plastic fuel tank. While somewhat overly complicated, the system is quite functional.

The car should hold 3.8 bar pressure when it is not running, 3.2 at engine idle. All flow measurements are with the engine off for safety reasons, plus the engine would not run well, if at all, while doing a fuel delivery test as it would be fuel starved. The regulator is vacuum operated, throttling back the fuel delivery and pressure (opening) under high vacuum signal (idle, cruise, or deceleration) and stepping up fuel delivery(closing) under low vacuum signal (open throttle for power) or during engine start. It essentially is bleeding off excess fuel to the return line when not required by the engine. If you are referring to the round plastic "turret" where the fuel supply line connects, it is just part of the fuel level sender unit, which also includes the tank vent line and fuel return line, and extends down into the tank.

The "turret" is directly on top but there is also a line with a valve on it that is right next to the sending unit. What does this valve do?Update: I have the entire intake manifold off. I have removed all the lines between the two points I measured flow (filter, long line to bank 2 rail, fuel rails/connecting hose, and short return line under the regulator). The lines seem to all have slight restriction, but I don't think it is abnormal, because I see a couple of restrictor holes built into the fittings. I blew about 80PSI through them and no debris of any type came out. Tomorrow I plan on measuring flow, by adding 1 part at a time from the pump and see where the losses are occurring. Also, the new fuel filter is a little less restrictive than the 3 month old one but has not had any fuel in it yet.So I have two more questions and hopefully I will conclude my diagnoses.1. The pressure regulator (recently replaced with OEM part), when uninstalled, seems to be closed. I cannot blow any air through the inside hole (hole that exits to the return line). Could the brand new pressure regulator be bad? Is there an underlying problem that would be ruining my pressure regulators? If I am understanding your last post correctly, the regulator should be opened when it is uninstalled (high vacuum, about 1 BAR absolute atmospheric pressure).2. Roughly what kind of fuel volume should I expect from the line before the filter. Mine was putting out over 1 liter in 30 sec (seemed high to me at first), but after seeing all the restrictions the fuel must travel through before the return line, I would guess that output at the filter location would have to be substantially higher than 850 cm^3.Thank you so much for your assistance and time. Some of the information you are providing is nowhere to be found online, so hopefully this thread will help some folks!

That is pretty much how the system functions. You should have as much fuel delivery at the return line as at the filter. While we are on the subject, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator for being involved in the noise you hear at start up? Reason I ask is your earlier comment about the fuel pressure swinging from high to low and then building back up sounds like it could be some sort of blockage, or it could also be related to the pressure regulator opening and abruptly closing when it should not be doing that:

While I hate to be throwing in more possibilities at the 11th hour, if the regulator were to "dump" the fuel rail pressure, nearly all the fuel volume would suddenly be passing into the return line, which could be the source of the sound you hear as it heads back to the tank. Unfortunately, there are very few tests to check the regulator, but one common rule of thumb is if If the operating pressure is below 35psi, or fluctuates wildly, and the fuel pump seems otherwise fine, it’s probably a good bet that the regulator is bad. If you pull off the vacuum connection and there is fuel dribbling from the nipple, the diaphragm inside has failed and the regulator must be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator could also explain why the return delivery rate is so low.

So is the regulator open or closed when no vacuum is on it? The engine is supposed to be off when measuring flow, correct?

I replaced the regulator with a dealer ordered part last month... The old one had a broken screen on it when I pulled it out... It seems like the car briefly ran a little better, but since performance seems to fluctuate so much, it is hard to tell... Hmmm, Maybe blockage around the area?? I am pretty sure I accounted for all the pieces of the old regulator (orings, screen bits, etc.) But I am about to go check out this area well!!!

What function does the valve that sits on top of the fuel pump access hole serve? It is either this or the pump/level sender that is making the audible noise at shut down and start up. Its like a slow pressure releasing howl, almost sounds like a police siren, coming from dead center of the dash... It happens every now and then, usually when tank is approaching low fuel light level or after fill up...

Thanks!

It sounds like a blockage of some sort, the return line should also be at least 850 cc in 30 seconds.

Just to verify... The engine should be off while measuring the flow, correct? I know the pressure regulator is not operating without vacuum...I am in the process of pulling the intake manifold, fuel rails, etc so I can track down this issue.I also have a new fuel pump and filter ordered to be on the safe side of things.Where are the likely places that a blockage might be besides the filter?I am under the impression that the fuel routes from the pump to the filter, then up the drivers side of the engine bay and around the back to Bank 1 (passenger) fuel rail, then across the front of the motor to Bank 2 fuel rail. From there the regulator releases fuel to the return line to the point where I measured insufficient flow from. Am I missing anything important in my understanding of the path the fuel takes?Thank you very much for taking the time to assist me with this!

Update. I tested flow from connection before filter. It put over 1 L in 30 sec!!!!I went back and tested at the return line again and got about 275 ml again!!!Advice? Is there supposed to be loss in flow throughout the system or does this sound like a blockage? Thanks

Less than 300 cm^3 in 30 seconds!!!!Fuel filter seems ok. I removed it and blew through it in direction of flow... I could blow steady through it. There was some restriction - I couldn't blow full force through it... I know this is a rudimentary way of testing it but its my best option at the moment...300 cm is a lot less than the nominal 850!!!! Bad pump? I collected from the return line under car. Thanks

Following JFP's recommendations (listen to him, smart guy, knows an awful lot on troubleshooting these cars), I can let you borrow my fuel pressure tester. But, you'd have to drive 70 miles south to pick it up. :) Or, since fuel prices are so high, just spend about $40 and get your own.

Thanks for the offer! I rented one from O'Reilly's this time, but plan on purchasing the next one, now that I have experience with the necessary valves. 70 miles south eh; I always enjoy hearing from some Porsche folks from Alabama! Thanks for all your help!

I have been dealing with fuel system issues now since day one. I purchased my 986 in November 2011. The very first day I heard a howl from the fuel filler area. For 6 months, I would occasionally hear the howl and also get a P0442 CEL for a minor evap leak. I read a bit about it during that time but never came to anything conclusive. It didn't affect performance, but I knew it would be something to be dealt with sooner than later.Turns out it was sooner... The past 7 months now I have been having major fuel system issues. I have researched everything I can think of including Diagnostics manuals, Durametric, Pressure tests, etc. but I cannot figure out my problem. I feel I may have multiple problems in the fuel system.List of symptoms:-very rough idle most of the time, the whole car shakes, a little gas and it smooths out-howl sound has moved from the fuel fill area to the area around the pump under dash (only howls when starting or turning off vehicle)-gas mileage is terrible-major loss in performance (sometimes it runs better than others but I haven't found a common denominator)-occasionally engine will rev higher than input of the throttle. It's a sudden change and the DME quickly adapts the FT's-CEL for Major Evap Leak (P0455)So far I have done the following in trying to diagnose this. There are so many valves it could relate to, and I just hate to keep "throwing parts at it".:-Replaced fuel pump relay-replaced fuel pressure regulator-cleaned injectors, manifold, etc-replaced AOS-replaced oil filler tube-removed and inspected fuel pump-removed and inspected charcoal canister/vent valves/vent lines-removed and inspected fuel pump-tested fuel pressure at rail (I have video footage of the gauge...)-durametric- I have video footage of various readings like fuel pressure difference, fuel trims, etc, while it is idling poorly, but could find limited information regarding its meaning)The fuel pressure diff will climb until it reaches 40ish and then drop to 5-8 and start building again. Is this normal? This was not listed on the nominal durametric values.Fuel trim is -2.00 for the long term... This is way off of the nominal value.I completely removed charcoal canister, valves, etc, and have been venting into the wheel well the past two days to narrow the problem. It seems to have not changed anything. It stills operates with as inconsistent performance as before. I read some post about boxster race cars just removing the system so I figured it couldn't hurt for a couple days... I plan on reinstalling it though for the sake of the CEL.I hope I have covered everything. It's late and my mind is shutting down for the day so let me know if I missed anything. It's a 2000 2.7L. 5 speed. Thank y'all all for your insight. I am ready to have her running like a top again!Link to durametric video https://www.dropbox.com/s/6a2p94usfyjuc50/summary.movLink to video of fuel pressure gauge (sorry it's a little dark) https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzmtog3c8nkn4n0/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge.movThanks so much for your help!!

Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure.

A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either.

Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, and have you pulled it and at least checked it to see if it is blocked?

Yes, I felt the fuel pressure readings were askew as well. I could not seem to get consistent pressure readings in relation to key cycles... I did not jumper the relay though... Switching the key on and off should produce the same results as the jumper, correct?

Secondly, were do I go about disconnecting the fuel return line in order to measure flow? I need to do this...

I replaced the fuel filter about a month before these issues started occurring... Is it possible to get a bad fuel filter? It was from Pelican Parts... I suppose pulling it out and inspecting it would not hurt... I will do that when I measure fuel flow, hopefully tonight...

IMO, if fuel filter is okay, it must be due to a bad fuel pump or vent valve that sits next to the fuel pump access hole...??? Thanks for your input!

Starting out small, have you inspected your gas cap o-ring?

Yes. Replaced the gas cap... Sometimes after it has been running poorly, There will be a long slow vacuum hiss when removing the gas cap. It lasts a long time compared to the usual "woosh" the pressurized system will normally make... Forgot to mention that... Thanks for your input!

I have been dealing with fuel system issues now since day one. I purchased my 986 in November 2011. The very first day I heard a howl from the fuel filler area. For 6 months, I would occasionally hear the howl and also get a P0442 CEL for a minor evap leak. I read a bit about it during that time but never came to anything conclusive. It didn't affect performance, but I knew it would be something to be dealt with sooner than later.

Turns out it was sooner... The past 7 months now I have been having major fuel system issues. I have researched everything I can think of including Diagnostics manuals, Durametric, Pressure tests, etc. but I cannot figure out my problem. I feel I may have multiple problems in the fuel system.

List of symptoms:

-very rough idle most of the time, the whole car shakes, a little gas and it smooths out

-howl sound has moved from the fuel fill area to the area around the pump under dash (only howls when starting or turning off vehicle)

-gas mileage is terrible

-major loss in performance (sometimes it runs better than others but I haven't found a common denominator)

-occasionally engine will rev higher than input of the throttle. It's a sudden change and the DME quickly adapts the FT's

-CEL for Major Evap Leak (P0455)

So far I have done the following in trying to diagnose this. There are so many valves it could relate to, and I just hate to keep "throwing parts at it".:

-Replaced fuel pump relay

-replaced fuel pressure regulator

-cleaned injectors, manifold, etc

-replaced AOS

-replaced oil filler tube

-removed and inspected fuel pump

-removed and inspected charcoal canister/vent valves/vent lines

-removed and inspected fuel pump

-tested fuel pressure at rail (I have video footage of the gauge...)

-durametric- I have video footage of various readings like fuel pressure difference, fuel trims, etc, while it is idling poorly, but could find limited information regarding its meaning)

The fuel pressure diff will climb until it reaches 40ish and then drop to 5-8 and start building again. Is this normal? This was not listed on the nominal durametric values.

Fuel trim is -2.00 for the long term... This is way off of the nominal value.

I completely removed charcoal canister, valves, etc, and have been venting into the wheel well the past two days to narrow the problem. It seems to have not changed anything. It stills operates with as inconsistent performance as before. I read some post about boxster race cars just removing the system so I figured it couldn't hurt for a couple days... I plan on reinstalling it though for the sake of the CEL.

I hope I have covered everything. It's late and my mind is shutting down for the day so let me know if I missed anything. It's a 2000 2.7L. 5 speed. Thank y'all all for your insight. I am ready to have her running like a top again!

Link to durametric video https://www.dropbox.com/s/6a2p94usfyjuc50/summary.mov

Link to video of fuel pressure gauge (sorry it's a little dark) https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzmtog3c8nkn4n0/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge.mov

Thanks so much for your help!!

Hi,

I have been performing the IMS bearing upgrade with the kit from Pelican Parts. I got the old bearing out with no issues. I cannot get the new bearing to fit all the way in though. It is still protruding about 5 mm or less.

I removed a double-row bearing style, so the new one will be recessed into the shaft. I guess my question is what kind of beating can this bearing take while getting it in? It was frozen cold initially but has since warmed up.

I read that the other end of the shaft pushes on the oil pump. I have stopped where I am because I am afraid I may damage something if I keep beating on it. The engine is locked at TDC, and I have marked the relative positions of the camshafts and the INtermediate shaft. Nothing has budged at all from its original position.

What kind of beating can the bearing take? I don't want to compromise the new one. Is there anyway to make sure it is not "popped" or "scored" after it is installed?

What do I need to be aware of on the other side of the shaft? Can I damage the oil pump? The shaft has not moved back from the crankcase either. I feel compelled to pull the oil pump off to make sure I have not damaged it already....

If the seal is not damaged after installation, does that mean the bearing is okay? The last thing I want to do is replace an IMS bearing that turned out looking fine and compromise the new one and have it prematurely fail....!!!

Thank you for any advice!!! This is my primary vehicle so I need to get this put back together as soon as I can but primarily I want to do it right.

Shudder as me then then I can tell you 100% it is not coming from tires/wheels/brakes or suspension. I would just live with that one unless it gets worse though. I would def start planning to replace the IMS bearing though. Do a search if you have not yet heard of this however I think that may just be impossible considering the insane amount of importance placed on it. If it fails which boxsters prone to this, you must replace the engine. Not fun for your wallet as Porsche motors are expensive and in high demand. Look into it just cause you should. Not because of your symptoms

I recommend getting that thing up in the power range every now and then. It is a Porsche. It's made to be driven hard for long periods of time. Tons of people run them wide open on the track for very long time periods. Pedro says "a redline a day keeps the mechanic away". Do a wiki search on "Italian tuneup". Warming it up properly is far more important than running it hard as far as engine longevity is concerned. When first started when motor is cold, do not just let it idle. It is best to immediately drive off. Oil must be pumped all the way out to the heads on the FLAT layout which needs some revolutions to spin the oil pump. I stay below 4k until motor is fully warm based on coolant temp gauge. When this is reached I will keep below 5500 rpms for the next 5 min or so. This is due to the fact that the oil takes longer to warm up to normal temp than the coolant. After a few min, I will then be free to take it to the redline if I so choose, which I do frequently!!

I have been working out a hesitation as well. Any check engine codes? I have gotten mine fixed aside from one thing the past two weeks. Started out with a tuneup where I replaced plugs, plug tubes, and cleaned out the throttle body/intake plenums etc. Prior to this I was getting the most minor engine hesitations on quick shifts. After I did the aforementioned maintenance procedures it drove sooo poorly. Definately not what i expected when I fired up for a test drive. Checked all the vacuum hoses etc and all were connected and new. Turns out, the battery needs to be disconnected and battery drained (press horn momentarily to drain capacitors etc) in order to let the ecu remap itself. What a difference. Took about 20 min of driving and then it performed wonderfully. I would start by cleaning throttle body/intake plenums. Plenty of write ups online , it's free, and considering the mileage it prob has never been done and starting to need it for the sake of keeping the vehicle in top shape. If you find lots of oiling he plenums then go ahead and hop on pelican parts and order a Air oil separator (aos) and, trust me on this one, a pair of cable driven hose clamp pliers. This tool will save you so much time and frustration. And when the time comes for a coolant tank, which it prob will soon, it is even more fundamental then. Just got done doing these jobs last week. I really cannot even imagine doing this without these special pliers. It was enough trouble with them. Craftsman makes them and u can get them at sears if they have one in stock. My local sears only had 1!! I would start with the above and go from there. Inspect all vacuum lines while the intake manifold is apart. Make sure all vacuum lines go back together correctly!!!!

Drive it short trips, long trips, or whatever. It doesnt matter. I would avoid unnecessary idling though ie leaving it running at your stops. First off I recommend watching an episode of bait car on TruTV to see how quick some people come to the moral conclusion to hop in. Add on the fact it is a PORSCHE. It garners attention. I would lock that thing up always. Secondly. The flat six motor design makes the oil flow design unnatural so you want to keep that oil pumping so your heads/valve train stay properly lubricated. I try to idle as little as I can get away with.

Working the clutch just takes practice. Soon enough it will be natural. Having a consistently performing motor will help. Good luck. Keep me posted and lemme know if u have any more questions. I got mine in November and already put almost 13k on it just because I can't get enough of it. I have learned so much about this car in the short time I've had it. When not driving, I'm online looking at Porsche stuff. I hope this helps. Also let me know if there are any check engine lights

2k model with same mileage and problems

I have the exact same 3000 rpm shudder. My first thought, oh no!! IMS. So I jump on renntech to research and it seems like quite a common occurrence. Never really found a promising fix. Some said the motor mount like you tried, which i am planning on replacing soon, so I am disappointed to hear that did not work, however, let me tell you. In the 12k I've had the car, this shudder has not changed one bit. This leads me to think it is not really a problem as much as a minor annoyance. If it were an engine bearing or something internal it most certainly would have gotten worse over that mileage. I own a tire/suspension business where we fix vibrating cars all day long (i know how to diagnose a vibration) and if you are having the same

Thanks Iogray

You really helped me with a different post about the radio and ignition switch last week. I don't know if you followed up with that post but I finally solved that problem 2 nights ago. I (hesitantly) let a friend drive my car today and he stalled out on two different occasions. Neither time did the vehicle have any issues with it returning to proper idle. I guess fuse D1 may have something to do with this as well. This seems to correlate with your theory of an electrical issue. Ill post if it recurs again. Thanks again for all your help. You really know your stuff.

If my 2.7 2000MY 986 stalls out, something gets thrown off and the engine will not stay cranked when restarting. Even revving it up high, it will putter out regardless of the throttle application. After a couple of seconds of a 2-3k rpm rev it returns to normal. This has happened twice in the past week. I think those were the only times I have stalled (just got the car, still getting used to the clutch!) but I cannot be certain. I just remember those occasions because of the difficulty to get going again.

Thanks for the input!

Fixed!!! sort of

Finally got the whole upgraded steering lock assembly in yesterday and installed it last night. After 2 hrs in 32 F weather, the radio still did not function in sequence with the switch. At the end of my wits and ideas of the cause, I tediously scoured the wiring diagram and traced down a small fuse (D1 i believe) that had to do with the alarm and radio... I have checked the fuses a couple of times but being a 7.5A the fracture was almost invisible. In fact, I only realized it was blown when I replaced it for good measure and the radio was fixed! It took scrutiny under a light inside to see where it was blown.

I figure the lock assembly was still in need of replacement though since the tumbler has completely spun around a couple of times. Thanks for all the info! This forum is a lifesaver. Learned a lot about the car in the process of this problem.

How well does the 2.7 motor/transaxle stand up to abuse? I do not plan on being abusive to it and generally take care of clutches etc, however I just purchased this vehicle and want to be able to skillfully drive it to its full potential if I so desire. Therefore, I have been "practicing" my shifts and starts (no hard launches!) fairly regularly for a few days. Mainly, I have been teaching myself how to shift as fast as possible, usually in 5-6k range but occasional 7k shift. How does the vehicle hold up to this. These habits will only be short term as I am already becoming satisfied with my shifting speed consistency.

Is this extremely hard on the clutch? I'm not too concerned about the clutch because I need a good excuse to go ahead and upgrade the IMS bearing but what about the transaxle as a whole? Is it made to be driven like it seems it should? Also, will this accelerate the IMS issue that is so prone to 986/996 vehicles?

I just want to make sure I am not doing anything that could adversely affect my car. It deserves nothing but the best love and care.

Lowering the vehicle will cause an even more negative camber. Aftermarket arms are available to allow adjustment where there are non from the factory or more adjustment if they are maxed out. The negative camber however contributes to the precise handling of the vehicle (not so much on the 4S but still some). Standing the wheels up straight will decrease handling. Arms are often required after lowering to keep camber from being too negative when maxed out but the high end products like the adjustable Bilsteins do better at maintaining the original geometry.

My recommendation: Run Michelin Pilot Sport A/S+. These are a directional tires so they can be dismounted, flipped and remounted so that the inside shoulders become the outside shoulders and vice versa. This dramatically increases the tire life if done in a consistent manner. Do this every 3,000 miles and do not go over. These tires last far longer than anything else available and handle phenomenally. They also have a mileage warranty on almost all sizes so after they are gone in 20k or less you can get a little prorated credit on the next ones.

I am in no way affiliated with Michelin. I am an independent tire dealer and European car enthusiast. I have experimented with most makes/models of tires and these are by far the best. It is the only tire I will run on my Porsche and BMW. I have installed them on many applications including BMW, Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and Maserati.

Hope this helps.

The Hankook is directional, meaning it is prone to "cupping" wear aka feathering. These are high and low spots between each tread block on the shoulders of the tire. Slight height differences spinning at high speeds on the road can cause this noise. I have seen cases so severe it replicates the symptoms of a failing wheel bearing. My advice is to go with a NON Directional tire. Michelin is by far the best manufacturer and have several options depending on size. Michelin will give the best tread life, ride comfort, and A/S traction. Cooper brand tires are also a good less expensive alternative to the Michelin, however they have become more proud of their prices in the past year or so. They are built with a dynamic pitch tread layout for the sole purpose of minimizing road noise (this may be just a selling ploy, I haven't noticed any real difference).

Pirelli and Bridgestone are fine tires, however expect them to wear much quicker than the aforementioned.

If you are now running a directional tire or prefer directional tires, then ROTATE THE TIRES EVERY 3,000 MILES RELIGIOUSLY. If the fitment is staggered then "flip" the tires by having them broken down and remounted for the other side of the vehicle so the shoulders on the inside go to the outside and vice versa. This type of rotation can only be done with directional tires. If possible rotate straight front to back. Consistency is key to maximizing benefits and this is really the only way to keep a directional tire from becoming increasingly noisier.

I would not recommend using any other brands of tire except possibly Continental, but in my experience they don't quite stack up performance wise.

I am a tire dealer and expert in tires and wheels. My advice: spend a couple extra hundred bucks on the Michelins. They ARE worth it.

New Question, Same Topic

I tested voltage at radio on the orange wire. If what I have read is correct, this is the wire that links the radio to the ignition switch, and presumably turns the radio on/off with the car. At the radio terminal only 1.2-1.3 volts were being read at all times, ignition switch off and on. I tried to test it at the actual switch too, but the orange wire is the uppermost wire and i could not get the tester probe high enough behind the dash and see at the same time to test it at that connection without removing the ignition switch. What voltage should this wire have when on and off? I have not been able to find this information anywhere. I would guess the voltage should be almost nothing when off (1.2 volts?) and around 12v when on. I am familiar with cars/repairs, but I do not have much experience with multimeters and voltage analysis, so please correct me if it seems my understanding of the physical properties of electricity/current err.

Thanks again!