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le bouch

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Everything posted by le bouch

  1. Hi, I just connected up my Durametric v6 to my 996 C2 MY1999. All is well apart from one fault code under Seat Memory: It reads: "Current Fault Codes: 2: Control Unit Faulty (main relay does not pick up)" The seat memory seems to working fine. I cannot clear the code using the Durametric. Anyone seen this before?
  2. All three words were paragraphed then Lauren. Go ahead and delete by all means :-)
  3. Use the iPad browser here - no need for mobile mode.Hmm. I'm using the stock Safari browser on an iPad 3 - I'm in 'full' mode, not 'mobile'.
  4. I did actually paragraph that but posting from an iPad seems to remove the formatting. Grrr.
  5. Thanks for taking the time to post this - I've been waiting for someone to do it! I've got a '99 C2 with the single din cupholders in slot 1, single din usb Pioneer in 2, cubby hole in 3 and hvac in 4.Obviously I'd have to lose the cupholders and I need to check whether my Pioneer can power an iPad - it juices my iPhone no problem but I know you need a higher output for the iPad. Do you use your iPad to play back music stored on it? How easy is it to remove from the car and take indoors to sync, etc? Thanks - looking forward to any updates!
  6. Just as an update, I recently changed from Mobil 1 0w40 to Fuchs Titan Supersyn Longlife 5w40 - no more mayo in the filler neck.
  7. Thanks Loren Do you think it worth changing the bearings with the top mounts? I can only find part numbers for C4 top mount bearings - could you let me know the part number for my 99MY C2 man coupe? Thanks again
  8. Thanks Loren - good to know. This is the ad that suggests otherwise.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shock-Absorber-Supporting-Mount-Porsche-996-997-Boxster-Cayman-/120953361540
  9. So, I'm getting the M030 kit for my 99 C2 Coupe 996 in a few days. The car's done 110k and I'd like to refresh the suspension, hopefully also fixing an annoying but elusive pot-hole knocking in the process. I'm hoping to do it myself. I've recently replaced both front lower arms (fixed annoying squeaks) and have rears to go on when the M030 is fitted. I also have replacement drop links to go on too. The Indy suggests I replace the top mounts too - can anyone confirm the part numbers for these? I'm a bit confused - for example, my suspension is stock at the moment so AFAIK has 99734301801 front mounts. I was going to order new ones but note that against this part number it says "fits Porsche 996 C2 1998-05 (without sport suspension)". Of course I soon will have sports suspension, so what mount fits? And if those mounts are no good why don't Porsche make you change them when you fit the M030? Confused..
  10. I was in email conversation with Owen from Durametric today. He confirmed that whilst there is no time frame, an iOS version of Durametric is something they're looking into. I think Durametric on the iPad would be cool.
  11. Good work! I think I would be in the 'undecided' camp too. I wish my front and rear 996 lights were better but also like to keep the car stock...
  12. I can't see the video link but the rubbers fold in on my 1999 C2 coupe as described..
  13. Ok.... Have now managed to get the rubber grommet / end piece back up and out, but in the process it's come off the actual drain tube. Grrrr! Looking at the diagram the other end of the tube seems to emerge in the LH wheel arch. Is that the only access? Am I best off pulling the pipe out from that end and starting again?
  14. Having difficulty pulling it up from the top ( have tried all manner of long nosed pliers, forceps, etc) - is there access to the rubber drain from underneath the car?
  15. Lol - I can tell you that the passenger in this case would most definitely not be impressed! Thanks.
  16. Thanks so much. From the rennlist thread I note that there's a TSB for the brake booster. I'll have to look at that. When I cleared the drains I accidentally pushed the LH (UK passenger) rubber drain through the hole in the bottom of the compartment - I can see it but can't think of a way to grab it and pull it back up through. Where would water go, if it just goes through the hole and not down the rubber drain?
  17. You're quite right - apologies, I'll fix that :-) Just started to read that thread. It's killing me. I haven't read to the end but it sounds spookily accurate so far except my car is now running fine... So far... Need to know what that brake booster looks like and if I've got one!
  18. Point taken. I did only disconnect the battery once though :-) I'll have to work on getting the codes read..
  19. Thanks for all your replies. I did clear the drains, as I said. Re water under the seat (I don't have any) - is that how you get it, ie flooded cowl drains? I'd still like to confirm if my flooded drains would have actually caused the CEL light and lumpy running? Sensitive wiring in those compartments, etc?
  20. So, after a few days heavy rain (typical English summer), I started my 996 today. Straight away, something felt wrong - the engine was running rough, I could feel the rear end twitching slightly as it sat with the handbrake on. I set off but the engine began to feel and sound rougher until the Check Engine light came on about 1/2 mile down the road. I came home and disconnected the battery to clear the light. I noticed that the compartments on both sides of the battery were about 11/2 inches deep in water! I fished around and found the drains, which were blocked with all kinds of crud. Water drained, battery reconnected, I restarted the engine. It ran rough for maybe two minutes but has since been fine. I've done a 30 mile trip this afternoon - the engine's run sweet and the CEL has not reappeared. So - water in those compartments - what's there that may have caused this, or spooky coincidence?
  21. Lower track control arm(s) would be my guess. Porsche ones are allegedly made by TRW in Germany.
  22. 996.1 seat motor drive shaft replacement One of my passenger seat (UK spec) motors wasn't functioning correctly. Labeled "up / down" in the owners manual, I could hear and feel the motor turning when switched but the rear of the seat pad wasn't raising or lowering. Some research confirmed that this particular function is controlled by a motor which has a flexible metal drive shaft in a greased plastic sheath, leading to gears which raise / lower the seat. The drive shaft commonly breaks... The new part 996.521.609.00 cost £17 from Po Author le bouch Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 06/26/2012 09:52 AM
  23. One of my passenger seat (UK spec) motors wasn't functioning correctly. Labeled "up / down" in the owners manual, I could hear and feel the motor turning when switched but the rear of the seat pad wasn't raising or lowering. Some research confirmed that this particular function is controlled by a motor which has a flexible metal drive shaft in a greased plastic sheath, leading to gears which raise / lower the seat. The drive shaft commonly breaks... The new part 996.521.609.00 cost £17 from Porsche. Tools needed: Philips screwdriver, E12 female Torx socket, breaker bar, long T25 bit, torque wrench (65 Nm), ratchet and extension. The seat is held in by four M10 x 28 screws - two front and two rear. Each screw is covered by a plastic trim which you slide / unclip from the seat rails. The front trims are held in place with a small screw. Remove the trims, move the seat back and using the breaker bar / ratchet with the E12 socket loosen and remove the front screws. Move the seat forward and repeat with the rear screws. You can now tip the seat backwards - no need to undo the electrical connector or remove the seat from the car. 02 Tools by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 03 Front trim by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 04 Rear Trim by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 05 Undoing the rear fixings by Andy Boucher, on Flickr Here you can clearly see the flexible drive shaft leading from the motor on the left to the gears on the right: 06 Underneath by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 06B Seat tipped back by Andy Boucher, on Flickr The motor is bolted to a bracket - one end of the drive shaft fits through a slot in the bracket. The collar at this end of the drive shaft was split but still serviceable. 12 Motor away from it's bracket by Andy Boucher, on Flickr The other end of the drive shaft also has a collar - this fits in it's own bracket which is bolted to the gears. Use the T25 bit to remove the motor on the left then the bracket at the gears end, releasing the drive shaft altogether. You can see that the collar at the gear end on mine had broken away completely - this let the metal shaft fall out of the gears - hence the motor whirred but no effect. 08 Broken collar by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 09 Old drive shaft out by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 10 Removing the bracket at the gear end by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 14 Broken collar at gear end by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 13 Old v New by Andy Boucher, on Flickr So, replace the drive shaft - it's little fiddly to get at one of the motor screws but with a long enough T25 bit you'll be ok. Make sure it all works before you put the seat back in position. Torque the seat bolts to 65 Nm. 16 New drive shaft in place by Andy Boucher, on Flickr 19 Torque 65 Nm by Andy Boucher, on Flickr Probably the hardest part was getting the seat rail trims off and on - they'd be easy to break. I used a combination of pushing, pulling and unclipping.. Hope this helps someone.
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