stumpjumper

thanks Mike and Loren, I'll be sure to check those out myself before I bring the car to the shop, and have them check it as well

What about a "Diminished Value" claim too?

I understand the concept but what kind of diminished value could I prove? I mean, it's a 4 year old Boxster S with 20k miles

now with pics

some the dent on the lower half of the bumper was caused by her bumper, the scarring was caused by her headlight, and the hole was caused by the sheetmetal of her fender, I can't picture how her bumper went below mine, speed was so low that braking wouldn't have dropped her nose that much and I hadn't braked hard enough to drop my nose either

last night driving home in traffic, driver behind decides she wants to go into the lane to my left except traffic in front of me was stopping... so I was stopping, she floored it and cracked her passenger side front into my driver side rear

bumper cover is ruined, a plug too, the heat sheilding on the rear was pushed in far enough that it touches the exhaust between the muffler and the cat, bumper cover was maybe 3/8 of an inch from the same spot, wheel well liner is pushed forward (pics won't be available till batteries charge) :)

so I've got a great, very reputable body shop to go to, so I'm not worried about their work, but more the woman's insurance messing around with what they will and won't replace, I'm willing to put up a fight to get everything done correctly and with OEM parts I just don't want to miss anything

(oh, and much to my chagrine the pontiac was much worse for wear than the boxster)

since the ground loop isolator is just a passive pass-through there should be no differences with it plugged in or not

if your radio is saying PHONE I'm guessing you cut into the phone power cable and need to check that wiring, a short there could make your radio think the phones is on, or worse yet cause a fire

(I know that the isolator and the phone power aren't physically connected, but given how tight it is down there I've got to beleive you bumped or tugged the power tap)

I have my Sirius antenna instsalled above the cabin filter, as high as possible in the plastic indentation, and my results are mixed

depending on the direction you're traveling you can have either perfect or horrible reception, the frame around the windsheild blocks a the signal a lot more than I'm happy with but I've got to guess this will depend on where you are in the world :)

me being in the north east my signal is terrible when I'm traveling in a south-east, or eastbound road

I've also been toying with the idea of finding a nook in the roof to place it, in between the headliner and canvas may be a pretty good spot

1st guess is bad hand brake micro switch

Normal - secondary air pump cutting in to manage emissions.

weird, I thought that only kicked in when the cats were cold, the only times I've heard this sound was when the engine was hot and I got stuck in traffic not moving so I thought it was something like what 0586slb mentioned

I've heard this twice now, both times stuck in traffic and idling in neutral, it goes on for a minute then goes off again, seems random to me :)

I'm just wondering what it is :)

(02 S, 6spd by the way)

seeing the new approval list had me thinking about moving off of it or trying the pricey Motul stuff, but I just today read a Mobil announcement that the 5w40 was supposed to arrive state side this month, with the 0w40 ending up on my garage floor and considering how loud the damned lifters are I wanted to use 15w50 like you're doing but I'm unsure how that would effect my warrantee and I felt foolish asking :)

I'd seen this stuff before, and forgotten about it until a post by Chris_In_NH regarding the cleaning. I'd been using Plexus and Flitz (a metal polish) for a long time and figured I'd gotten my window as clean as it would ever get after the P.O. had mistreated it...

so last month I get a good scratch because I was careless scrubbing the canvas so I ordered the 1-2-3 kit and it came, the rain in NE finally lets up so I wash the car, dry it, and go to work on the window

starting with #2 (the middle abrasive) I see how well it can do, after 5 minutes of rubbing and letting it dry I wipe it off and **** 95% of all the previous scratches are gone and my mini-gouge is mostly gone... good enough that I don't bother with #3 because I don't see the point

went over it with #1 which seems very much like the Plexus I'm used to, then I went over the inside with #2 and #1 again

the window is so damned clear now that I can see my finger smudges on the lexan windscreen between the rollbars, I can see dust specs in the carpeting of the engine cover... this stuff is amazing

now to use it on my Audi's headlights!

(thanks Chris for mentioning it)

I have got a dent on the left rear fender about 10 cm ahead of the rear tail light. I was hoping to get a local company spezialized in removing dents to take away this one. Does anyone know if the rear outer panel is accessible when removing the rear tail light? or do I need to take away the inner plastic fender in the wheelhouse ?

Regards,

Niclas

these guys work magic, and they're all over the place

http://www.dentwizard.com/

Is the driver's seat frame lower than the passenger's?When I adjust both seats to the lowest position it seems that the driver's seat is much lower

I thought they were different in my 02 at first but it turned out the back of the passenger seat was back just far enough to prevent the seat from going down the last notch, once I adjusted it it went down to the same height

Anyone have any updates on the GAHH tops w/ glass window as far as durability?

They have a banner ad that says "now with a new reinforced window pocket". Does anyone have information as to what this is?

that sounds promising, with luck that means they fixed the window seperation problem

Mine exhibits the same symptoms. It's on a streak of beeping when locked lately, but other times just the lights flash. Quite strange!

Jon

the lights should flash when it arms, but it will only beep when it thinks something is open (usually the glove box) but could be the front or rear hood or either doors

I heard one suggestion of running the car while on jack stands so the PSM system see's slippage and operates. Thoughts on that?

ever see Ferris Beuller's Day Off?

I'm interested too, but I wouldn't run the car on jack stands

hell I can feel my AVS sports overnight here and it's only 50 out

Kinda figured that the answer would be something like that. Maybe I'll try the wet brush and dish soap then rinse with a bucket of water and hope she starts afterward :( Never heard of "Simple Green"; I take it that that's the brand name? What exactly is it?

it's a biodegradable cleaner, it's green and smells nice, but read the directions as it's sold in concentrate and needs to be diluted, it'll cut through most any grease with ease, it'll take wax off quickly too :)

great stuff to have around

simple green it comes in gallon jugs too

My understanding is that the glass window tops will not work with the "02 top frame...if there is one out there that does, I'd sure like to find out about it.

both GAHH and BAS make one, it's not a Porsche part, but an aftermarket one with a window the size of the 2003+ here's a link to a thread about them :)

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...184entry22184

I tried to use the Diagnostic Tool today on my 01 S (DME 7.2).

It read the fault codes and cleared them, the vehicle identification was correct but the Actual Values displayed were either blanks or illogical (e.g.temperature readings of -minus).

Do you have any opinions/experience on the matter? Is the tool supposed to perform all functions with all models/years, or is the Durametric Tool limited to fault code reading/deleting at present on certain cars?

Thanks

i found this when I was looking at their site yesterday (I was trying to figure out if it could open the psm valves for bleeding, had to email them, it can't yet)

1997-2004 Porshe Boxster(986)
Module 	Read Codes 	Reset Codes 	Actual Values 	ECU Information
DME (Engine) 	Yes 	Yes 	Yes 	Yes
Tiptronic 	Yes 	Yes 	No 	No
Airbag 	Yes 	Yes 	Yes 	No
ABS 5.3 	Yes 	Yes 	Yes 	No
ABS 5.7 	Yes 	Yes 	Yes 	No
Alarm System 	Yes 	No 	No 	No
Air Conditioning 	Yes 	Yes 	No 	No
Seat Memory 	Yes 	Yes 	No 	No

for the cupholder problem, I've been using a pair of "ultimate cupholders" ( www.ultimatecupholders.com ) since a tragic coffee spill left me with 2 hours of detail work, I don't even use the stock ones anymore, to the point that I'm going to get a gt3 console delete and pull them out completely

Yes, I understand the function of variable damping and the effect of it, but I was under the impression (from the dealer) that in etreme situations that the air suspension would actually work to make adjustments as well (fully active suspension). Simlar to a sway bar perhaps (tucking into wheelwell on inside wheels or raising outsides). This is what the dealer seemed to represented -- I may have also misunderstood.

So, the air suspension does nothing except raise and lower the vehicle in a very slow way to achieve a level ride height at the predetermined height, and the PASM is varible shock damping only. This supports my observation. Thanks.

I can't comment on the Cayanne specifically, but for Audis that's how it works on the A8 and RS6, the air suspension works the same way on the allroad but it doesn't have active dampening

Question for those in the know:

I would appreciate someone explaining some of this system's functional intricacies, as I find my observation of its operation troubling. For example, when you adjust the ride height at a standstill or at slow speed, the movement is very slow and seemingly labored. This reaction time seems 'adequate' for moving from the highway to an off-road environment. But in PCNA literature, they say that "in high performance road scenarios, the system automatically suppresses the pitch and roll"...etc., etc.). How is it that a system, which takes a half hour to move 4", is going to compensate for plunging into a massive understeer situation with significant suspension loading in a fraction of a second?

Given my lack of knowledge, I could only hope the system, while stationary or at slow speeds, "saves itself" operationally for times of real need??? (Is this turn "Pressureworthy"? -- Sienfeld Reference)

Thanks!

if I remember correctly, you're actually talking about two different pieces of the suspension, the air spring which controls height, and the electronically controlled hydraulic shock absorber, which controls bound and rebound by opening and closing internal valves

my understanding is that it's the shock absorber that's adjusted in those situations, the same as it would be in normally spring adjustable suspensions

the self dimming mirrors are nice, with the top down the regular mirror can reflect the sun into your face hours before dusk because of the way the mirror works (I don't know the technical term for the dual reflectivity)

the same way the mirror can put sun in your face, if you flip it up because of somebody's lights bothering you you'll see nothing but sky during the day

it's bothersome enough to me that I'm going to retrofit the self dimming mirror

I too had a similar experience when starting my 05 C2S after 4 months in winter storage. Same message, no CEL and the car is running fine.

Yes mine has been in storage too for the winter. Were you able to get rid of it permanently?

DaleE

I've gotten this about 2 gallons into a tank that I've put fuel additive into

when you stored it did you put sta-bil in the fuel? if you did I'd expect it'd clear itself up once you run that tank down and put fresh fuel in it

I'm going to have to figure out what I'm going to do when I get that far. fiberglass, perhaps.

bondo in a tube, filler putty I think it's called, works very well for that