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Mark House

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Posts posted by Mark House

  1. Since this comes up so often I thought I'd comment on the typically recommended fix (the kit). I too replaced a 2000 Boxster S center console with a new carbon one which has a different design to hold the arm rest.

    You can use the kit if you choose but that kit was designed after the fact to repair the old style center cosole if it broke. If you are replacing a old (I believe 2000 and older) center console with a new replacement it is better (my opinion) to purchase the parts that are used with the new design. Someone had listed the part numbers somewhere on the net and I can dig them up if needed. I then assembled the armrest on the new console and updated attachment parts to create a console just like the newer ones came from the factory. A cleaner OEM look.

    Mark

  2. Loren, I'm a guitar player with long skinny fingers. I guess that helped. More than anything I saw this project as a challenge and I love challenges. I was prepared to use Kevin's method and just couldn't bring myself to do it without trying the conventional method.

    To be honest. Kevins method is probably just as effective and faster if you can stomach the procedure. I have no idea why Porsche used the torx screws as the small tips on each strip and mere pressure of the dash holds them in tight. I did NOT replace the screws (did save them as a trophy) because that would be foolish and I also now could replace/change these strips easily if desired.

    Mark

  3. Loren,

    No. I have a 2000 Boxster S. I thought the long AIRBAG piece was the second easiest to do. The simple one is to the right of the steering wheel. Once you remove the instrument pod and remove the two torx screws on the top of the "horseshoe" which then pulls up and off there is clear access to the small piece to the right. The piece under the ignition switch had to be done ( I discovered the hard way) from the driver side airduct which houses the light switch. This was reached with a small rachet and torx. It's all about proper angle of your driver on the screw head which is difficult because you can't see it, only feel the screw head

    The long piece is reachable from the car seat reaching under the dash with the cover panel and snap in air duct( under the dash) removed. You can't see the screws from this postion but can actually easily touch or feel the screw heads. The hard part is getting the torx driver in the precise horizontal and verticle level eg. Dead on straight. It's frustrating the be able to readily feel the screw head but not get the head of the driver to "seat"

    Mark

  4. I just want to report that I have completed the three piece dash trim strip mod with carbon fiber. I was able to reach all the torx screws without pulling them out. Removing the steering wheel and the upper center console was NOT required. I did remove both air duct end pieces for access. I also removed the instrument panel and the "horseshoe" under the steering colume. You also have to remove the air duct under the dash on both sides for access but this is easy.

    The whole project is time consuming and at times frustrating, but suprizingly doable.

    I may provide a writeup in the future if people are interested. It can be done because I just did it.

    Mark

  5. Parker,

    I have a 2000 S with factory upgraded turbo look 18"s. I just purchased 18"x8" and 18"x10 Gemballa competition wheels. After much research the general rule seems to be 19" may "look" better to some but functionally are, infact, not as effective in terms of overall performance. That does not even address the relative vulnerability to damage of 19"

    Mark

  6. Yes, 18"x10" are common aftermarket upgrades for Boxsters. 19"s will fit as well. The question, or issue, is proper offsets. That is, where the front of the wheel mounts to the hub in relation to the overall width of the wheel. e.g. center, close to the front, closer to the back. ect.

    Mark

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