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ciaka

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Everything posted by ciaka

  1. Here is the more detailed info of errors ME: P1627 CAN timeout - airbag - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light Instrument Cluster 1321 Airbag triggering unit - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light KESSY 1321 Airbag triggering unit No signal/communication GATEWAY 1321 Airbag triggering unit
  2. So I had this airbag error on and had taken the car in to look at it. After few hours of pd they say SRS Module is most likely bad and they would have to buy to put in. The part is $1200. Since electronic, can't return once plugged in. So once I buy, I spent the money even if there is secondary issue. Shop asked me if I want them to start debugging but I would be charged hourly fir time and then for repairs. Shop appears great reputation and recommended by many. What would you do?
  3. Trying to see if anyone knows whether the buttons on left side of steering wheel, volume and others, have replacement numbers. One of my buttons has a small spot on it (probably from wife's fingernail), and I'd like to replace, should I choose to swap out my steering wheel out. Much appreciating the info.
  4. I think I just found the full list: 1. Valve cover seal - driver side 2. Valve cover seal - pass side 3. Two spark plug hole gaskets 4. Two variocam solenoid gaskets 5. High temperature gasket maker (red one). Would love to get confirmation if possible. Thanks.
  5. Is that all you need for valve cover seals replacement? Gasket for each cover? I thought I remember someone saying there are more seals to replace once you are doing that job. Would love to know the full parts list. Planning to do soon on mine.
  6. DONT DO IT!!! - you will enjoy too much. No one can enjoy something that much!! JK. If you want it, do it. I know you will love the CTT. Dont take my word for it, chime in a month or so after you get it.
  7. <bitching>So after my recent move to California (SV Bay area), I am happy to report that their roads are some of the crappiest roads I have ever driven on. Way worse than some of the trenches you experience up North after a good freezing winter. Their city repair crews must surely be blind the way they repair the roads </bitching> Recently, I have noticed (and seems to get aggravated with colder temperatures too), that in the passenger front wheel area, I can hear squeaking when going over sharp bumps. Sometimes, when the bumps are sudden, I can also hear some kind of clunking. Have looked through some forums and get advice/see info about lower control arms replace, etc. Wanted to see what you fine folks on here can advise me on this. I inspected the wheel by lifting off the ground and trying to jiggle it sideways (holding tire at 3pm and 9pm to try move toward either direction). I also tried to hold at 12 and 6pm, trying to move tire towards either of those points. There was no movement in either direction. Greatly appreciate your input in trying to get this quantified and ultimately resolved.
  8. So I had the airbag light turn on one day and it stayed on even after clearing with durametric. I read the forums and thought it may be something more serious. But then my wife drives the car and comes in to tell me that the driver seat belt does not sound alarm if you forget to buckle it up. Typically if you drive without buckling up, the alarm would go off. She noticed it did not and I confirmed. Could this mean the airbag light is off because of something to do with the seat belt sensor? I lifted driver seat up, followed the wire from seat belt clip to the connector (front of seat, yellow 2 wire connection). Seemed solid enough ( used DMM to check continuity and it was there). However issue still there (airbag light on). What domyounthink about this and do you have recommendations on how to proceed from here? Thanks.
  9. Did this today. It took about 6 quarts, and I wonder if I should be worried. I will not be putting the plastics back on til done for sure. My plan, take it to work tomorrow, and after return check fluid again to see if it takes any more. Hope somebody can chime in on this post with advice. Thanks.
  10. Door Sill Plate Refresh I was looking for things to do to the CTT I own, and decided it will need a refresh of the door sill aluminum plates. Have one of these on each door, plus rear bumper skid pad and rear trunk like bottom edge. So had to repeat this on every plate I wanted to apply this to. Simple process: 1. Buy equipment - aluminum polish kit - Harbor Freight Tools - under $5 including tax (believe it was $3.99) - masking tape for taping off areas you do not wan Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/20/2014 03:20 PM Updated 11/28/2017 10:34 PM
  11. I was looking for things to do to the CTT I own, and decided it will need a refresh of the door sill aluminum plates. Have one of these on each door, plus rear bumper skid pad and rear trunk like bottom edge. So had to repeat this on every plate I wanted to apply this to. Simple process: 1. Buy equipment - aluminum polish kit - Harbor Freight Tools - under $5 including tax (believe it was $3.99) - masking tape for taping off areas you do not want to touch (about $2) - general cleaner/degreaser to cleaning of the sills after job is done ( about $4) - corded drill (any will do, but cord drill will not discharge forcing you to wait - any self respecting man already has one) 2. Prep car - mask off each plate that you want to restore - Use exacto or other device to trim along plates for perfect coverage 3. Do the job - Apply polish compound to buffer - Slowly work one section at a time, pressing medium light, to medium pressure (slightly harder than pressure applied when buffing a car surface - remember, you are polishing scratches out) - continue to work small section at a time, for about 30 minutes total per plate - continue to apply more polish compound onto buffer when noticing compound not getting getting applied onto plates anymore when buffing - Wipe plate off to verify you achieved proper sheen and scratch removal (if not, continue, focusing on areas/scratches to remove) - When done, wipe clean and clean out entire sill area (polish compound peels off and gets thrown around the area - vacuum is best way to remove) 4. Repeat on every door sill plate you want this done to. 5. Inspect and enjoy the result of work
  12. is there anything I can do to help narrow down things? Resets, connections, etc? Any relearn processes?
  13. Just got the following errors and wanted to see if you fine folks can help narrow down where the issue is at specifically. Codes were pulled with Durametric SW. They are: ME: P1627 CAN timeout - airbag - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light Instrument Cluster 1321 Airbag triggering unit - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light KESSY 1321 Airbag triggering unit No signal/communication GATEWAY 1321 Airbag triggering unit Greatly appreciate your help with this.
  14. Given it appears easy to get to, you may be well served to do this yourself. There are 3 gaskets involved, valve cover, the spark plug gasket and variocam solenoid gaskets. I will be doing these soon as i get settled (moving across country).
  15. did you make sure no floor mats get in the way or anything else? Just checking for obvious stuff first.
  16. Ive been noticing on my CTT that after changing my exhaust to Leistung SR1 (modified), removing secondary cats (change to Leistung straight pipe set), changing intake filters to BMC, that my street mainly is at about 14mpg, and highway mostly at about 22mpg. Mix of street and highway gives me about 15-16mpg.
  17. got the sucker. Located fuse in manual for secondary air pumps. They are located in engine compartment (next to brake fluid reservoir). Open the lid, and look for: Fuse 3 - sec. air pump bank 1 (pass side) Fuse 4 - sec. air pump bank 2 (driver side) Mine was bank 2 (driver). Pulled out and seemed OK until I looked very closely and observed black residue on inside of plastic cover. Checked with ohmmeter and confirmed lack of continuity. Fuse blown. Checked fuse 3 and confirmed it is OK with Ohmmeter (near zero resistance). So now I will have to hunt down a 40A fuse for this sucker to confirm the final fix. Moral of the story - check your fuse too.
  18. Replaced the pump bank 2 with new OEM one. Cleaned out the valve and hose. Reset the car to clear the CEL. That was about 5 days ago. Today, CEL back on. Checked and same error was on - P0492. Rechecked hose connection, clear. Rechecked electrical connection and cleaned with contact cleaner and blew dry. Check. Reset system again. Any ideas on what could be going on here? Is there a fuse for air pumps that could be bad from when blades were all broken up? Help is needed and greatly appreciated.
  19. Is this the diy that is done when there:-) is a leak on driver side of car, with oil dripping onto the under carriage plastics? I have a slow leak in that area and have not taken the thing apart yet. Trying to understand the symptoms here. Thanks.
  20. Looking for info and tips for valve cover gasket replacement for the CTT. Info on parts to get (other than the valve cover gaskets themselves), other parts that are 'might as well do while you are there', where to seal with sealant so leaks do not come back, etc, etc. Pics would be great. Thinking of doing this but would love more info first. Thanks.
  21. Cayenne Secondary Air Injection Pump/Valve DIY - Replace/Repair Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structu Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 05/06/2014 02:40 PM Updated 10/03/2016 10:31 PM
  22. Symptom: CEL light comes on and when investigated, P0492 code (or similar) is detected. The following code description is observed in Durametric SW: Secondary Air Injection System Bank 2 - Value below lower limit value, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC lightWhat is wrong:From my experience and from others' posts, this is usually caused by the failure of the secondary air pump that is located inside engine compartment (the two horn like structures on either side of the bay, near the firewall).The failure is apparently caused by the valve getting dirty and failing to open, which causes filter foam (you will see once you open this sucker out), to back up into the pump itself, causing fan blades to break off and plug up the hose even more.Once the fan blades are broken, the pump will need replacement.NOTE: If you choose to only replace the pump, please understand the cause of failure, since it may be likely you will have another failure. I did not think this would be the case until I removed the valve with hose and cleaned out a bunch of debris from there....so if you are servicing pump, you will do yourself a lot of good by cleaning the valve/hose at same time.Anyways, DIY is using pics, each successively numbered with instructions.Hope this helps someone make the repair.Plan on about 2-3 hours of work for this repair (1 pump), at nice leisurely pace. The other pump repair will be very similar, except pump part number will be different and location of mounts/screws will be on passenger side.Have fun. *** EDIT*** - I was gone for a while and all my pics had been removed from my tutorials. Regardless how it happened, here they are.
  23. ...per info from other people's posts, replacing bearing requires cutting off the mount and opening the joint to replace/lube all internals....much more precision involved process, and requires one to be careful during the closing process, as sloppy job will introduce debris to area and cause to fail again, and again, etc....this is not a 1 hour job, and if you do it, should do it right the first time. Yes, you can mark the shaft to make sure you retain balancing, but I am not sure if the replaced components inside joint would require re-balancing. Not a job for the average Joe, IMO. I went the way of replacing shaft for time purposes. Cost was about 400 for parts plus time on my side...was good enough to do it, with 100% confidence in entire job done right the first time. ...I know there is a vid for doing this, and saw it, contemplated, but since the shaft joint opening introduces possibilities of further fail later down the road, I chose different method. If you did this, great. Good choice too.
  24. Cayenne door trim strips - trim pieces that doors close onto The trim strips are located on on lower part of each door entry, and the door closes onto the trim pieces themselves. Sometimes, when exiting the car, your foot can catch the edge of a trim strip, causing a clip underneath to break, loosening the strip. After a few clips are damages, the strip is very loose and you may need to replace all clips to repair this. Attached pics show which trim strips these are (total 4 on the car - 1 per door). Tools needed: - Cleaner to clean strip Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/19/2014 07:25 PM
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