violaGT3

Glad to read it was figured out.

Go neutral from second gear rolling. If the noise carries over then it is not the tranny. The differential should not be in the "tranny" it just has gears, rods and selectors in it. Then you need to run a series of tests to determine where the noise is coming from. Rev in neutral; accellerate quickly; accellerate slowly(in 1st gear to 6krpm and down) same in second, Does the noise vary with rpm's? does it vary with speed? I know the droning noise in my experience is from bearings but your idea of droning may be different than mine. Miles/maintenance could help folks here.

For clarification, some people call everything including the bell housing the tranny. I refer to the tranny as the gearbox only.

Hi All!

I am about to dig into the brakes and have the calipers PC'd. I am wanting to put a larger caliper on the rears (asthetics"why Not"). I know that the big reds have a rear caliper that is the size of the C2 front calipers.

Can anyone tell me if they are the same caliper, ie. if the front C2 caliper will bolt to the rear hub on a C2. I ran into issues before with trying to mount the front big reds on my C2. I then learned of the major differences between a C4 and a C2 platform. Anyways I hope someone with part #'s or experience with this can help me out. I am going to have my calipers PC'd Red and I would really like to have them look about the same size. The fronts to me make the rears look anemic. MTIA! I can do a DIY on it to help others in the future if any would want me to.

Direct for instance question:

Would a Boxster S front caliper be the same as the front caliper on a C2?

Would a Big Red rear caliper mate to a C2 rear hub?

Would a C2 front caliper mate to the rear C2 hub?

Hi all, Just pulled my 99C2 out for the summer and well It is behaving oddly. As my foot gets near the brake pedal it seems as though the pedal is pulling away from my foot. Just about how magnets aligned resist one another. The brakes work, but I have noticed that they may even be staying engaged for a second every one in a while. The pads are 4k old, rotors are all good, fluid is tops. Also can someone tell me what color the brake fluid is supposed to be? TIA!

The fitting in the attached photo is on the upper rear side of the 4-6 head. Is this a vent, or should it be attached to something? It's been over two years since I had the engine out, and this seems to be the only thing I didn't document when I took the engine out and I really really want to get it started up this weekend.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Hi, this is of course a ignorant of specifics response, but there is no lip on the peice in question so I would say,

no there would not be anything attaching to it. I have dealt with alot of cars and it a hose attaches to something

there is always a lip. It appears to be a 1 way breather, but I do not really know where it is on the motor so cannot

advise to it's purpose.

Oh - I thought they were Porsche wheels.

If they are Champions then you best check with them.

Yea they are the 3pc. forged versions of the RGB5? I found out when trying to order valve stems that they were special.

Turns out that they did not even sell them to civilians. Kudo's for me. I really love the look and well since they discontinued

them around 10 years ago I figure I should take care of them. Thanks for your BlitzAntwort you are always there to lend a

helping hand, I really appreciate it.

Hmm I would preffer to keep my Vintage Champions intact. I will look into it a little deeper before using them. Thanks Loren!

Hi All,

I ordered a set of Chromed Bolts for my C2 and didn't think much about it at the time of ordering.

I went to chacge them out and noticed that the factory bolts have seating washers built on to them.

The new chrome ones are simply bolts with no seating washer. Is there some dire need for the seats,

or is it merely a cut above in the lug bolt game. Many thanks for your thoughts.

2000 C4 86,000 miles.Perfect until Intermix problem. Replaced engine with factory remanufactured and new clutch.

Ouch sorry to hear about this one. Glad to hear you had the means to get it taken care of.

Gents, Turned out to be the stabilizer mounting link on the front RHS... Part code i believe is 99634379214

thanks for the help!

Well that's good to know my C2 does this from time to time, was told it was probably the inner tie rod joints.

Thanks for posting this!

Well it is really great to hear of the many success stories out there. I am getting ready to try and drop my engine and tranny this winter for an update and some maintenance. I am at 82k now and no major issues still, just run into the dead battery from time to time if I do not drive her for a couple of weeks. Right now I am going to send off the tranny to have the 2nd gear pop out fixed, and the motor will get the accessories updated, pumps, mounts, A/C drier, plugs, and anything else I can think of as well as the Clutch etc.

Good luck to you all and you San Fran remember drive it hard!

997 steering wheel won't work on 996 cars. different nut.

Hmm, are the nuts collared in or something? I would think as long as the splines equate, and the length is the same, then you could just plug and play. But thats just me thinking. I do miss the Grant days.

Will an 01 Boxster S OEM Wheel fit on a 03 911C2 with out issues? I was was planning to run them as a winter wheel set.

Thanks in advance.

Andrew Opicka

From what I have heard yes, again "from what I have heard". Narrow body wheels are interchangeable with box wheels.

If they are some special set wait for a Gu to reply.

Hey,

I had a similar problem with my new to me 00 cab.

I was all set examine the clutch switch. When I lied down to look at the switch, I saw that the floor mat had slid forward so the clutch pedal didn't go all the way down. I moved the mat back and no more problems.

Barry

Hmm, good to know this is common. I thought it was peculiar that I ran into this issue, I was thinking maybe a slightly bent clutch pedal arm. . .

whenever i fill the car up with gas i just put the gun in and let it sit until it pops by itself, however when i turn the car on it's never at the complete top. here's a pic i took today right after i got in the car after filling it up.. anyone know what the problem could be?

thx

C4 or C4S?

If so, read the section in your Owners Manual about refilling when the tank is very low.

Really? . . . these things are just laden with tweeks.

whenever i fill the car up with gas i just put the gun in and let it sit until it pops by itself, however when i turn the car on it's never at the complete top. here's a pic i took today right after i got in the car after filling it up.. anyone know what the problem could be?

thx

It can be a few things.

One. the neck design in the Porsche could be restrictive or have something slightly blocking it and cause the pump to release prematurely. (You may want to carefully (top off) the tank by watching the gun as you moderatly squeeze to slowly fill the tank.)

New thought, if your pumps have the foreskin, dont put the nozzle all the way in the filler, allow for room to breathe.

(Good Point Rattles)

Two, there could be petroleum residue on the rheostat (level mechanism) in the tank preventing it from reading in the lower position. This could be from being stored for an extended period of time in the car's life, doesn't need to be enough to foul the car just enough to coat part of the rheostat, and seeings how full registers at the bottom of the rheostat, it is likely to be the issue.

(my recommendation is to use a good grade system cleaner and drive it like you hate it, or love it?)

Three, You have a stuck needle on your guage cluster.

(Umm beat it like you hate it, or love it?)

Four, you have some kind of crazy wiring connection issue causing it to misread.

(IMO this is a total longshot and should not be considered until you get to the point of replacement, then just check the connections)

HTH G/L chilly yellow

I lost two yellow top Optima's to the 911 and I have been using a Advance Auto Gold series battery for two years now, had to have it replaced once as the 911 has has some kind of amp draw in it that kills batteries if you do not drive it. When I had to have the Optima replaced it took the 2.5 months to mail me a replacement, twas not a happy camper. So unless you plan on doubling your HP and hitting the drag, or generally off roading just stick to your closest autoparts house they warranty their batteries and it's easy to get issues handled. HTH

Has anyone got experience of using 295/30x18 rears with 235/40x18 fronts on a 996 C2 Coupe ?

I've got a 2004 C2 with the standard 285/30x18 rears & 225/40x18 fronts & want to improve dry grip by fitting Pirelli PZero Corsa's - which I believe are a better compromise than the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyres for mainly road use - but with occasional track day outings.

(Everything I've seen suggests the Michelin Cups are a better track tyre - but need more warming up than the Corsas)

My existing Pirelli PZero Rosso's are about worn out - so now's the time to have a look at the options !

Unfortunately the Corsa's are only available in the slightly wider 295 / 235 widths (as fitted to the 996 GT3) - so I want to be sure there won't be fitting problems before I order them.

I've read on other forums & in the Renntech forums where owners have fitted the GT3 tyre sizes that they fit without rubbing on inner or outer wheel arches (front or rear) - albeit on wider rims than the standard 10inch rears / 8 inch fronts that I have. As the GT3 uses the narrow C2 body without wheel arch modifications if I understand correctly, it would make sense that they should fit without issues.

Has anyone direct experience of using these tyre sizes on a C2 & if so were there problems ?

I don't think C4 fitment is relevant as the wider rear I guess should result in no problems.

Thanks for any input - Paul

2004 C2 Anniversary

(UK (RHD) spec C2 Coupe including standard 345 bhp engine, sports suspension, manual gearbox etc)

Hi I have had 295-30-19's on both a 00' GT3, and a 99' C2 GT3 clone, I would have to say it all comes down to the rims. The rims on the C2 are Race Spec. 3pc. wheels from Champion Motorsports. I am not sure of the offset on them. But I can tell you that both of the cars are tucked in the rear. no rubbing issues, allthough I believe the quarters are rolled.

Thanks much. I was able to fish a wrench back to check the tightness of the bands around the big rubber collars on the top of the engine. Seemed a little loose but tightening them didn't seem to change the frequency of the problem.

I also wiggled the black plastic vacuum tubing connections that are accessible while it was surging and it didn't stop it.

Does the computer monitor all the potentially related circuits for intermittent sensors or wiring? Since the surging is intermittent with the engine hot, I'm wondering if it's still some electrical bug.

Thanks everyone, for any further thoughts or ideas you might have.

After reading this last little bit I would say check your fuel pressure level.

O.k. I'll add a reason being.

when cold, generally systems enrich the mixture for warm up procedure, once warm up achieved the mix goes normal.

well if there is not enough fuel you get symptoms like that of an air leak, (surging) and with complete fuel pump failure horridly sluggish performance especially in the torque bands is experienced after about 3-5 minutes of running. This in the my older days was known as a cold start injector.

HTH

Depending on how picky you are about keeping you engine spotless you can use WD40 to help identify mysterious leaks. Typically I found that leaks are most prevalent in pvc joints but, I have not dealt with them on my Porsches yet. Basically just follow the intake path and tubes leading away, spraying each and when you find that the idle surges spray there again and you've found your spot. This is not the ultimate fix all end all but it is a technique use when needing to check an area out of reach and in times of desparation. P.S. WD40 will not harm your engine or components and can be simply spray washed off. WARNING: Do Not Spray Directly At The Headders. There is a chance that they could ignite the WD40, Not a great chance but if not taken into consideration then a stupid mistake could make a mess and have your friends asking you why you have no hair on your arm?

Well this is a neat little cause and effect thread. I am going to troubleshoot a little clunk noticed from around the front passenger wheel (I believe) noticed when backing out of my drive. I've checked everything for looseness no such luck. I was thinking outer ball, but maybe this is the culprit. But I don't too often get to drive and I would notice it just pulling out of the drive, or so I think. . . I'll definately look into this.

That would be the one. Thanks again Loren, you have a gift for making things a little nicer. God Bless.

Jeff @ Sunset has it on the way! Many thanks.

Hi all, I am trying to cover the little missing / lost pieces from the work done and it seems I am missing a body plug from within the battery compartment cowl. it sits in the wall behind the battery, it is off to the right a little from the battery. It is roughly 3" in diameter. So if Loren happens to be online and wouldn't mind spittin it's part number off the top of his head, or if someone has access to it, I would really appreciate it. I talked with sunset imports and they had no luck looking it up. Thanks

99' C2 6spd.

I am thinking on upgrading the standard look of my 99c2 cab with front and rear bumpers, and possibly side skirts. After searching for the usual suspects, I did not find any clear comparison between materials. I have found the following materials for after market pieces:

- ABS

- Fiberglass

- Urethane

- Duraflex

ABS being the cheaper one, and the other 3 oscillating depending on maker etc.

What are your thoughts on what route to go? Obviously looking for the right balance expenditure/result/car is not worth much this days. Planning to keep it for 2 or 3 years, very happy with it.

I am gearing towards a gt3 setup, similar to what alter_schwede has (lookup registry). Very nice. My car is Artic Silver and boxter red.

Cheers all.

Well you have to decide first what you need from the lot. Myself I would lean towards duraflex or eurathane as they flex the most and my car is very low and in flood states (KS) all the roads have a channeling effect. But they have their drawbacks as PJ mentioned for the most part they cannot be repaired as they flex more than the repair and will break again. and well ABS should never be used IMO tough yea, heavy yea, warps in season change and heat Yea. Fiber again as mentioned by PJ unless bought from a reputable manufacturer usually envolves 3-6 hours fit and prep time, but it is solid state, it'll go 20 years, no prob. but in time 20+yrs. it will spider web a little under the paint, now that is an easy, easy, fix at the time of repaint and it does not do it so much as in the past. Lastly it can be repaired, to as good as new in most cases, but sometimes the repair time make it a new case as it would cost more to pay for the labor. But all that being said Look at the TOP ie $$$$$ manufacturers and see what materials they use. Eurathanes and the other plastic variations were put into place as a money saver for mass production, a good mold and gel coat and your ready to paint, for track purpouses fabulous, turn and burn. They have improved the durability and warping with variations like FRP which takes a good plastic clean finish and gives it light rigidity by coating the back in fiber. Also with molds you have lines, even fiber molds, but with the plastic ones you have discrete warps around them and it is costly to have them smooth/erased, fiber it is 1,2,3.

Now with all this knowledge forsaken just go buy something that looks really cool to you! HTH

Hi while turning my baby in to have the clutch replaced I learned that Steven of Imagine Auto in Lenexa KS is selling his amazing Project car.

Anyone looking for a rediculous Turbo 997 should give him a call. It has been featured in a couple of magazine articles as are all their projects. Just FYi for you guys.

Imagine Auto

913-322-8562

For pics just check their Web below it is the one featured in European car Mag.

http://www.imagineauto.com/index3.htm

Edited the name of the Owner, I worked with Karl in the past so the name stuck. oops.