violaGT3

Low beam, that's what PIWIS says in UK English, Viola.

Ok Thanks! Dipped= Low, Bonnet= hood, Boot= trunk, bloke= me? = )

I would check the switch, if you can get ahold of the diagrams, check the signal leads from the switch at the relays, then you'll know if the relays are good too. Should be a quick and easy if all checks out the pull the light and check the car-mounted harness receiver for a popped out pin, and use an "electrical cleaner" spray on let fully air dry de-oxidizer, not WD-40.

Cheers!

P.S. don't rule out the switch

One lead could be toast, out of place, just screwing with you for laughs.

The only issue I would see is dependent upon your offset. If they are stock wheels you should be fine, less your car being tucked that is.

HTH 295-30-19's

Hi all,

Wonder if anyone can help me. I have a 1998 996 C2 with standard headlamps. The drivers side dipped beam no longer works although the side light, main beam and foglamp do work. I have changed the bulb and even swapped the working bulb from the passenger side into the drivers side in case I bought a dud. Still no joy. I swapped fuses 9 and 10 around in case it was the fuse but still no joy. As it is just the dipped beam I am stumped. Are there any relays for either side headlamp as I cannot for the life of me think what else it could be. I can't see it being the switch as the other lights on the drivers side work. Any help appreciated as I'm often mistaken for a motorbike when dodging through London traffic now ! Have also removed and refitted the headlamp a dozen times in case it was a bad contact. Scratching my head profusely now.

Thanks,

Lee

what is a dipped beam?

looks good

I can see you did the 996 turbo front bumper and modified the 996 turbo decklid. Rear looks like stock 996 quarters with holes cut into them.

If they just cut holes in them and it came out that clean where do I sign up. I like that look!

That is sexy! Looks Great. I am not a fan of the turbo looks, but that is nice. Maybe it cause I cannot see the fascia too clearly?

Your suspension height is perfect for those 18's. Bravo!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3196052

Oh God don't give a better pic of the front. There's just something about the way they get a little blocky on the sides of the fascia.

It just contrasts with the contour of the car. Looks like someone took a 68 camaro front end and cut and pasted onto a Porsche with an import twist. But I say again dressed in black she's hot!

Recently (now that it has gotten cold, not sure that's relevant), I've had a couple instances where I turned on my lights and they failed to come on. A couple times cycling the switch resolved the issue, but then when I was driving one dark night (in my rural, deer infested area of PA) I flicked to high beams and all lights went out! Luckily I pulled on the fogs and it was enough to get me stopped without driving into the ditch...

I've looked around on the site, and haven't seen this exact problem, but the related ones seem to point to the light switch. Is this so obvious to those of you in the know that I should just order the switch, or is there something else I should check?

'02 C4S with Bi-Xenons, both work normally (color, intensity, leveling, etc.) when they're working...

Thanks for any insight.

Hi, not sure if it'll help you too much but I have brand new HID's on my Scion XB and I have seen them fail to light once or twice. Not sure why I replaced the old set after doing it only once and my buddy who took them said they work fine. I would have to say it's like the flourescents sometimes they just don't hit right and do not light the first time. I'd have to say you don't have much to worry about. The original set I had was used when I installed it. The second setup was new. Oh and to clear things up they are the OEM Audi A8 Ballasts. Which may be the same ones Porsche's use, not sure though. Just did not want to get bagged for having Chiwaneese ebay lights.

That is sexy! Looks Great. I am not a fan of the turbo looks, but that is nice. Maybe it cause I cannot see the fascia too clearly?

Your suspension height is perfect for those 18's. Bravo!

Hi my 2 cents goes like this,

camber wear will normally wear out the inner 1/3rd of the tire 15-20% faster than less aggressive camber settings.

If you are noticing the difference within 2-4,000 miles it sounds like you are toe'd in too much in the rear.

A quick check on that is measure from like points on both rear tires from the front and the rear.

There should be no more than 1/4" difference.

Okay and less Vinylex too? Are these botique brands?

I use NXT that you mentioned, I like it it goes on easy no mess and it lasts a good long time.

Just for your knowledge I have tried all the rest, less zaino, and NXT gave the best results.

More than like they stuff giving off the black ooz was black magic it is notorious for slinging too.

I just purchsed CF door sills for my Cab. Looking for advice on removing the stock sills and prepping for the new ones.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Phillipj

There is a toned down version of kerosene avail. in some hardware stores Incl. HD that will neutralize the sticky properties of the tape temporarily. You would just pour some on the inner side of the sill and allow it to run along the taped area and use a thin plastic wedge to separate the pieces.

It works clean and neat and you will not make a gooey mess. Or if you do it the rip way which is fun too. then you can use either kerosene or the adhesive remover to clean it up. GL

Just for reference I have used this technique for many years to debadge many cars, remove pinstriping(heat gun works best for pinstriping but this gets the residue). I have attached a pic for clarification, this can be verified at any bodyshop in the greater 48.

(sorry for the disclaimer but I hope it save a debate)

When i turn on the fog lights (1st position to the right) on my 99 C2 the right headlight comes on and is very dim/weak. Everything OK when I switch to the headlight position. Is this a switch issue and, if so, is the switch easily changed? This sort of thing is a challenge for me. I reinstalled the headlight but no joy.

I have seen mine do it before too. I am not sure what to make of it. I wonder if it related to the street parking setup that all my beamers and Mercs had in Germany. They did something like leaving the turnsignal on would light the apropriate sides signals as a identifier. It maybe that they have fog accessory bulbs that light up in the light area maybe the accessory bulb is out on one side. Try double checking what it is exactly that is lighting up and check the other side to see if it has the same thing that is not lit. Other than that I did not pay much attention to it when I noticed it before on my car. Allthough I did end up having to replace one of my bulbs a little while after. I do not believe that they were connected. GL

Well, the results are in and the engine is said to be perfectly fine! :D The tranny however is going to be replaced. Imagine Auto gave the car a test run and said that it should go as even if repair was attempted it would come too close to the cost of a replacement with a warranty. Oh yea they agreed that the clutch is gone. :rolleyes: Not bad I believe it is the original at 80k miles. So they are going are going to fix the RMS and some odds and ends and hopefully get my clutch pedal to lighten up a little. Then maybe I'll actually clean her up a bit and I can go out in public again with her. Oh and maybe the water pump as a PM I think I am starting to hear the ghosts. I can't wait for spring!

Hmm, I would have to say that there is a little bit about Porsches(911) being engineered to do 180mph, and Z's set at about 150mph. I would think that sub 12" rotors on a 3300# car would desintigrate after s short time on the Autobahn. Wonder if the specs are different in Europe or Japan? That's an odd comparison. in my book of performance cars, a 350Z you would not find, nor it's competitor the Crossfire or the Z3/4. While they are sporty and 15-26 year olds love them you would more then likely destroy one of them if you did track it(consumer cars). My thoughts on the brakes for 911's is simply engineered to take what you throw at it. Switzerland, Germany, USA, Italy, Doesn't really matter which one. I have run into a few hills in a rental BMW 323 in Garmisch Germany before thart would have really appreciated Porsche brakes.

A short digression...

Well, back in the day, I had a 2003 350z Track model and my friend had a 2003 350z Touring model. My Track model had factory 12.75" rotors front and rear w/ Brembo 4/2 pot calipers while his Touring model had those sub 12" rotors w/ 2 pot sliding calipers.

On our first DE, he had braking issues (heavy pad and fluid fade) while mine held up ok except for the uneven deposition I got on the rotors. I simply had my rotors turned to remove the deposition while he upgraded to a 13" Stoptech BBK. A few DE's later, hairline cracks started developing on my solid 12.75" rotors. At $500 per factory rotor, the 350z Track model quickly lost its allure for a cheap track platform.

Granted that I had the rotors turned to remove the deposition, they were still w/in spec. But if I could crack solid rotors in a few DE's, just think what would happen if I slapped aftermarket cross-drilled rotors w/o increasing rotor width or diameter...

///Michael

Here's a 350 that could of used some upgraded brakes. check out the speedlimit sign at the crash site. :huh:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nc0V7dHKgY0

Did anyone read an article a few months back in C & D magazine where they compared braking distances and fade resistance of many different cars including a base 997, a 997S, and 997 with the PCCB. They couldn't make even the base 997 fade as I recall. And the PCCB were not that much better considering the costs. Worth a read

Well it would figure as a toe to toe comparison with other cars Porsche has the most capable brakes I have seen less a $130k Merc. My 03' Stillen Altima 348WHP had the stock brakes, I believe they were 2 pot calipers and 12.5" rotors. I believe that is the same setup on a Chevy Astro??? I sold it due to it needing to have a intermediate shaft it would jump nearly 3 feet to the right and then catch and straighten out on a hard launch. Great car but not designed to have that much power. The only fair test for Porsche to be compared to is the Exotics and maybe a AMG or . . . . . a Vette. Yea I know I am not a big fan of them which is why I have never owned one but they are improving by leaps and bounds and from what friends of mine in Europe tell me the new Z06's will embarrass most 911's, yes including turbo models. :o

Have a looksie: Turbo

:eek: GT3

Now if they could just correct the gearing and make it is little less nausious to drive. . . . Naa I'd still want my Baby!

All I am saying is that in my 20 plus years of rekeying locks and picking locks. WD-40 is the worst stuff you could ever put into a lock other than dirt or superglue. Over time it dries out the lock and attracts dirt. It the short term it works great but over the long term the lock WILL start to fail/stick because of the use of WD-40.

Just my 2 cents.

Well I learned to use it back in the 80's. and I have used it eversince and not had one issue using it to clean out the brass powder and lube grease that will build up over time and allow free movement again. You simply spray it in break down the greasy build up and let the excess drip away, and then use graphite powder to lube the cylinder. Oddly enough my 76 X1/9 had it done to it somewhere in the early 90's and they do not have a problem. Are they/you using graphite powder to lube the lock afterwards? Oddly enough I used the same method on my 01 Passat and it has not failed me yet. . . here's hoping.

P.S. don't look at the pic too close it needed a bath :rolleyes:

A $15 part sounds like a steal of a deal but can anyone tell me the difference between all these parts? What is the $15 ignition switch, the $150 ignition assembly, which ones do I need to replace my keys (what is a key cylinder?), how do I change these without changing my keys? I've read the DYI on here "DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster" but it doesn't seem to cover if you need new keys? I'm no master mechanic but can follow directions pretty well, maybe I'm missing something (what are the exact part numbers I need for the job). Any help would be great, otherwise I'm going to have to go to the dealer and drop $900.

Thanks again gentlemen.

No seriously do not take it to a dealer. That's like going to a dentist to have him brush your teeth. Below are addresses for ebay pages that have the switches for sale. 99% you do not need to replace the assembly, but it is an update to correct the known problem that you might want to do. Your call. If you were to do the updated replacement then you would have to replace the bracket assembly locking cylinder, and lastly the keys. But if you just want to repair the switch until the next failure then just get the appropriate part and replace it. This is the exact same part that fails on my Passat, The exact same part number, more than likely it is the same assembly too. If you are obsessive then spend the money if not just replace the switch and it'll last somewhere between 1 month and 10 years? Who knows. GL

99-01 OEM-4A0 905 849A- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Porsche...sQ5fAccessories

04-05 OEM-4B0 905 849- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-PORSCHE...sQ5fAccessories

PS you can use the part number locator on this site to get part numbers for just about anything.

Maurice is right. DO NOT LET THE DEALER NEAR IT!

99% chance it's just the ignition switch. You can order it online for less than $20 bucks, and install it in under an hour.

If you take it to the dealership they will probably tell you they need to replace the lock and cut new keys. They may even refuse to replace just the switch.

The switch breaks easily so they updated the part, but the catch is that the updated switch will only fit an updated ($100+) lock. :rolleyes:

BTW If it's the switch, lube won't help, it'll just make a mess. And if the switch doesn't properly turn off when you take the key out you will end up with a dead batt.

Hmm, I am assuming that by "if it's the switch, lube won't help" means that if the plastic switch is broken lube won't help. Hmm, good call but my suggestion was to attempt to alleviate any issues with the the switch if it is merely hanging up on debris. Like the one in my Passat does. I think this is a perfect example of "good info used poorly" It is not necessary to use the entire container of WD40(my apologies for not making that clear). Some people have a good general idea that a squirt or two in a cylinder with .002 cubic inches of volume might suffice and if in fact it was just hanging up then it would allow him to use his car regularly for the time being, like getting to work tommorow, or to the green!

Oh um to the response of not using WD40 to clean out the cylinder it'll gum up. Yea, that is right. It is not a cleaner, it is a silicone based lubricant, and it will gum up. Ah, oh well. I just wanted to help a guy out not have everything I say challenged. To lube a cylinder graphite powder should be used to clean it out. . . . I don't know, Pine Sol?

I'll pay $100 to someone who takes a lock cylinder and sprays as much WD40 as they like into it and gets it to gum up from it. Heck you can soak it in WD40 if you like?

I'm having this exact same issue and am looking for a solution better than taking it to the cleaners (aka my dealer who quoted me $900). I am also interested, if anyone knows, in changing it to a push button start or some sort of upgrade. If I'm going to spend that much might as well upgrade it. F.Y.I. when you lock your door and get the single horn beep; a. you have about 2 days before the battery will die and b. the passenger door does not lock even though the drivers side does (you can ask my girlfriend about both of these!).

Thanks Gents!

Hmmm, Sounds alot like the issue with my Passat, very common. I would use a little WD 40 in the ignotion cylinder, play with the key in there, then remove the key and give it a squirt or two rinse out. Leave it alone over night. It seems asd though the horn is letting you know that something inside the car is not right, much like the center console.

HTH

Also if the passenger door is not locking then use graphite powder in the door locks, from time to time I have to ust my key to open the door as my girlfriend keeps washing them and I noticed that sometimes the mechanical lock will open but the alarm sensor/central locking doesn't trigger. Turn the key a little farther in the door.

How did tis happen? manufacturing defect or abuse?

Were 1st and 2nd gears hard from new?

DID PAG pay for it, or if not, what was the repair cost?

Hmmm, is the 2nd pop out under some kind of recall? How would one go about contactiing PAG?

My C2 is a 99, it just turned 80kmiles, 6 speed, 2nd owner.

Imagine Auto KCKS said that the tranny needed to be replaced.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have an AM warranty,

but apparently it will not cover the freight charges to get the tranny to USA?

Just drive it year around.

Tuscon huh, must be nice. I got caught off guard by a flash freeze coming home from the movies. I was driving on the interstate and all of a sudden I started hearing this grumbling sound. I rolled the window down, and slowly let off the gas, 2.5 360's later I was in the grassy gully of a median facing the wrong way watching tractor trailers, RVs, busses all in the left lane and coming at me doing 70mph. The girlfriend in the car with me got real quiet and just stayed there as she knows me well. It was at that point I decided I was going to go with all season tires on my car. Luckily an extremely brave tow truck driver chained up to my front tow eye and got me out of there. The chains did a bit of a number on my bumper cover, but I did not care I told the tow guy it was well worth it, thanked him and gave him a $20 tip. Oddly having 10 years in Special Ops with 2nd Battalion Rangers, I have done alot of hardcore things, but joe blow was my hero that night. if just one driver would of hit their brakes it could of been one hell of a mess. All the traction control in the world adds up to approximately D!@%, on black ice with 295 P-zero's. So on the behalf of yankee's everywhere. No. ;)

My car did not have the BOSE audio upgrade, but it did have a separate amplifier. With a little bit of dremel-usage, I was able to get a 1 DIN (Blaupunkt) head unit to fit in place of the CDR23. I ripped out the stock amplifier and ran speaker wires from the new head unit to the old speaker connections. I would love to run new wires to all of the speakers, but I don't see myself ever going that far.

This particular unit supports bluetooth and iPod audio in. iPod cable runs up into the console area. The phone Microphone was run under the dash, up the A-Piller, and onto the visor. (Took this chance to pull out the antenna wire from the wire bundle, to get a little bit more range on my keyless system.)

The power running to the radio caused pretty bad alternator noise, so I had to install a power filter. Now that I did that, I'm happy with the head unit.

The next stage I will replace all of the speakers. Then I'll install a sub box (on the back deck) and trun all of the speakers through an external amplifier. Finally, I'm going to replace the head unit again with a in-dash NAV.

Fun times. Makes me wish I bought a '02.

Oh, I almost forgot. I went to reposition myself and pushed a little too hard on the glove box. I snapped the clips to the support bars, so now my box is busted. Live and Learn.

Good luck with the speaker upgrade, it'll be fun. I thought about doing that but I opted to just build a box and install subs to see how I felt about the sound and it worked out great for me I just run all the bass through the subs and the plastic tweeters or as Porsche calls them speakers they do good for the mids and highs. My 99C2 has the odd sub units in the doors and they kind of sound decent if the car is not running other than that they are pointless they should of just put a standard speaker there.

Nice pics I am not sure but I think mine would look like yours. It is being replaced now too.

I did not have any issues with 1st, but 2nd kept wanting to pop out and it felt like it was not fully engaging.

From time to time if not thinking about it would grind a little. Like it was only partially engaged and then when you release the clutch there was not enough gear to gear and it would torque grind. Here's to new trannies!

WOW, this is one of the more extrememfailures I have ever witnessed from any engine.... Its not too often that a crankshaft shears on the track on an engine that has 7 main bearings, but this one **** sure did!

The engine has the 3.6 X-51 package and was making 325 RWHP and had seen TWELVE THOUSAND track miles prior to this failure. We had initially thought the engine had broken a rod due to the material that came from the oil sump, but as soon as the engine arrived at our facility a 5 minute inspection found the crankshaft to be in two pieces!

The material these cranks are made from is powdered metal, it's what most modern engines use for crankshaft and connecting rod materials and I am less than ompressed with it thus far. I can't believe that a component with such mass could break so extremely.

I feel that this failure was attributed to by a couple of things-

1- The engine was "upgraded" to a lightened flywheel. This new flywheel was installed onto the existing stock engine without being balanced to that assembly. This created an imbalance in the rotating mass AND it did away with the factory dual mass flywheel.

2- The dual mass flywheel was removed to alow the single mass lightened unit to be installed. This eliminated ALL MEANS OF HARMONIC DAMPENING!! The crankshaft was forced to absorb ALL harmonics from the engine and transaxle when the dual mass unit was removed..

So- adding the light weight flywheel was a double negative, not only did it create imbalance, it also eliminated the harmonic dampening of the dual mass arrangement.

Due to this I feel that adding a lightweight flywheel to any existing engine is not a wise decision, and that they should only be added when the entire rotating mass can be balanced and indexed to accomodate the lightweight unit. This means engine disassembly, so I'd only add one of these when doing one of our performance upgrades so the entire assembly can be precisely balanced.

This X 51 will be going back together with our 3.8 package applied using LN Nickies cylinders. It will see some head work upgrades along with severe duty valves and Len's spring package. We'll be upgrading the rods from the stock powdered metal units to LN Billet connecting rods and we'll also be applying many oil system mods to this one. Since the crank needed to be replaced, a Flat Six Innovations Billet Chromoly Crankshaft is being used (instead of another Porsche powdered metal unit) and is in the process of being made now. I feel quite certain that these mods and materials will eliminate failures in the future when coupled to our balance and assembly procedures.

Target for this engine is 425HP at the flywheel N/A

Now, here are some pics of the autopsy. Very few eyes have ever seen the anatomy of an X 51 this deeply-

Forget all that I say Bravo! 12,000 track miles, operating beyond the engines manufactured capacity. That is amazing pure and simple, I have not seen 12kmiles track racing and you don't want to know the failures I've had! This should not come as a surprise, but unless you're gonna break the engine down and inspect it after every race as the pro's do then you couldn't hope to know about it and I would have to say that even with an inspection you would not find it. :D

I would start with a clean up of the idle valve, which is mounted on the left side of the throttle body. You can find here the DIY procedure in the relevant section.

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