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violaGT3

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Posts posted by violaGT3

  1. I have a MY00 C2 that is having the engine replaced at 59,XXX miles. Any thoughts on how a new engine affects resale? Will this be a plus (i.e., new engine under warranty = good deal) or a minus (car needed new engine = stay away)?

    If it adds any value, any guestimate how much it helps?

    Thanks,

    Tom

    From the tension among answers here I would have to say that one would have to take into consideration the known failures and where they stem from. Unless a total moron(10k rpm), you can ride a 911 hard and put it away wet without blowing the engine. If the buyer understands that there were specific failures to specific years, and that has already been addressed and replaced with an updated motor that should give them reassurance. If not then there is nothing you can do. Some people are bitterly anal, it is a self defense mechanism that for the most part serves them well, others just worry about getting scammed/buying a lemon/that people are generally untrustworthy(me). But if they are truely wanting to spend the money to buy a 911 then one would hope that they would take a little time to about them. Unless they like dropping $20k-$120k on a whim(if so might I interest them in a few shares of Enron?).

  2. I'm driving a 2003 C4s. I was recently checking out my rotors and pads and my freind who is also a car mechanic mentioned the fact that some after market rotors have beveled holes in order to reduce the microfractures. Is this true? If so, is this something I could have done to my current or new OEM rotors?

    Thanks for any input

    George

    Hi, yes it is true. Naa, really not necessary, unless you are autocrossing. The temps won't get too high and it won't cycle at all so your factory drilled should do fine. The holes are mostly there to reduce fade by releasing the byproduct material and gasses from hard braking. HTH

  3. You can give it a try RF5BPilot, but i'm not convinced about the result, it will turn out with a replacement IMHO. Success anyway.

    +1

    My girl has washed the last two remotes I've had, even after I forbid her to wash my clothes.

    I have taken a shot at restoring the chips with no luck, I tinker with electronics and the conventional method that works on some protected tronics doesn not work on these due to constant power and minerals in the water. Sorry

  4. Hi all,

    Whenever I put my foot down to give my car a good pasting I end up with a very noisey engine when I stop. There is a loud ticking from the left bank somewhere. If I proceed to drive normally for a while or turn the engine off for a few minutes it goes back to normal. It sounds like a knocking cam or tappet type of noise but it can't be either as the noise goes away once I treat her nice again. Are the 3.4 engines partial to oil starvation anywhere? I have recently had the oil separator replaced, an engine flush and new oil/filter installed which hasn't remedied the situation. Are the lifters a common problem? If so, how difficult are they to replace? I'm nervous about putting my foot down now which is embarrassing when other oiks want to try it on at the lights !

    This may be a little out there, but in my years of racing it sounds like your car is being a smart@$$. I would check the timing marks, and make sure it's not set too advanced. It would take a healthy sludging to stop up a portion of the engine, or a bloke botching up a gasket setting. It just sounds like your car needs to be retarded. :lol: GL

  5. Hi

    I have a 2002 Carrera coupe, and my key is going through batteries like crazy, I just put a brand new battery in it 2 dyas ago and now it's solid led again. What can be wrong?

    Thanks

    It might be of some use to list the battery type you are using. I know mine had the wrong type in it. Beyond that it could be that there is a button stuck on the board, or the board has a short somewhere. In which case call an electronics friend or get a new remote. HTH

  6. Pull the headlight and have a look back there.

    I am not sure what I would be looking for there. The locking mechanism is working fine.

    But when I go to the gas station to fill up...I open the door to remove the fuel cap, then turn to get the gas nosle, the fuel door swings shut imediatley when I release it so I have to open it again and hold it open when I insert the nosle. I see these pics with the door staying open and think something is wrong here with my box s.

    I would say that the spring clip is not seated properly. One thing that would immediately help is to leave the key in the ignition I believe that'll keep the door from locking back. The only way to know for sure is to get in there. I believe it is the spring clip>not set right, broken, etc. It should be an easy fix. I would look on my car but it is at Imagine Auto getiing some work done. GL

  7. Call GBOX in Colorado...talk to the owner or the lead mechanic there. they will help you diagnose your issues.... free.....

    5757 Arapahoe Ave.

    Unit C1 East

    Boulder, Colorado 80303

    Phone: 303.440.8899

    i have been pushing them alot.. but they saved my walled a lot of $$$ and talk 2 days to turn around!! and they will actually spend time to talk to you

    rod

    Hi Rod,

    Thanks for the lead, but it is a bit difficult since I'm located in Europe (Belgium) and I don't want to abuse the good people at GBOX knowing that I'll never be able to give them my business. So if Remus or anybody else could report on how his issue was finally handled, I'd be most grateful. -> Loren or anyone else from the tech gurus: any thoughts?

    Allright, I'll offer my take on your issue. I would preffer to have your issue. It spells out the cables. You have a push pull and a side to side.

    From there you can imagine that you issue lies with the Push Pull cable. I would give the rear end assembly a glance and see if you have rocky raccoon's remain's there. If not move to the cabin and pull the rear console. You'll see the shifter box, give it a once over to ensure that all the movements are uniform, ie that the cable is not binding in it's sleeve. The mark the PP connector, then adjust it appropriately to cause more movement in the necessary direction to engage the defunct gears. If you meet with success then find the happy median and you are go. If not, it gets ugly, there is morethan likely that you have something bent or sticking inside the gearbox. I will leave that tidbit to those more in the know than myself. GL

  8. It would be fairly simple to add a relay to the system if you have the power and ground wires. You need a power line, ground line, trigger, and light lines. You can get add on relays from most auto stores not sure which would work best for that but again if you can find out that by explaining and asking. Then you just either 3m double tape it or self tap it to something under the center console.

    Really if you can drive a six speed you can do it.

  9. Good advice on the a/c coil, I will see if I have a problem on that and if I do likely go to a pro. I am doing the repairs myself; the parts are around $500 not including the bumper. Wanted to upgrade to a different bumper anyway so I am going to take my time on that; going to look at a good epoxy to glue it back together in the short term. As far as insurance I leave those mates alone as much as possible. This is my daily driver so I have learned to not get to upset about blemishes.

    I would recommend using a metal grade 40-80 grit to scar the back side of the fascia, then drive a couple screws on opposing sides of the break line, then use safety wire to tension the opposite sides together and put fiber resin on each side of the break but not in the crack, then place a folded piece of fiberglass cloth over the break, and smooth it down flat. After you let that cure, you can move on to the next break if any. The reason for not putting the resin in or on the crack is that it'll bulge out of the crack and look awful on the painted side. I would apply a second piece of glass cloth to each break, and then work on dressing up the painted side. I have seen people use elmers to fill the crack on the painted side and believe it or not once you use touch up paint it is good. This is of course a track repair and will work until you decide on your new fascia or if you do it well enough could serve you for a long time. I of course do not endorse the use of elmers I merely wanted to get across that it's a fairly easy repair. Of course if you do not mind ponying up the dough you could scar the break all the way and resing the crack too (neatly) then wet sand 400, 800, 1500, 2000, and have a shop shoot it. As for the screw holes, ream the burrs and put a painters tape firmly and neatly over them and then use a drop or two of resin or what ever from the back side and the threading of the hole will allow it to permanently seal it back up. Gently wet sand as before mentioned and have shot or just touch up. Oh yeah if you should run into tiny pin holes/spots in the resin use glazing putty, simply smotth it over the area and allow to cure fully then wet sand.

    It's a fun deal supposing you don't get resin all over everything. . . . sadly I have done that before.

    Just FYI incase you don't know Trying to epoxy is a waste of time. They are great with surface area but in this case the wind drag would be enough to snap it. HTH

  10. Ouch! Either that was the Terminator with a raccoon guise or you hit him while you were haulin @$$.

    Most of the answers seem straight forward. The only recommendation I have is not to expose the A/C system until you are absolutely ready to complete all work and recharge it to avoid contaminating the system lines.

    Also a good temp fix for the radiator some jb weld putty.

    I know this doesn't help much But without first hand seeing the damage I would have to say just order the parts and go from there. Bend back what you can, but you have damaged unforgiving parts.

    Hate to see it, BOL!

  11. Thanks. It did the trick perfectly and I mounted the bass knob to adjust it in the center console cubby. The 8's hit nice and tight, without breaking your eardrums. But I guess if one were to turn the bass all the way up they could hang out with the guy in the Ion pictured above and they could go deaf together? Here's the pic of the bass knob, it kind of looks mangled but that's just the clear plastic protector I tend to leave them on, it's still on the subs too.

  12. I just bought a 2000 Cab and the original owner installed a Kenwood Excelon system in the car.

    Instead of compromising the rear center section for the sub woofer he installed it in the passenger side footwell with an aluminum grate to protect it.

    Although I would never have gone to these extremes for sound it looks nice and sounds great. The car has Porsche silver back GT seats that slide all the way back so even my wife (who is 5-10"tall) has enough leg room.

    Not the only solutuion but at least it keeps the integrity of the car without looking like a rice-burner.

    That Saturn picture makes me queasy... :huh:

    Phillipj

    I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck.

    Hmm, Someone else had the same Idea. Cool Here is the one I built in my spare time. I have built more than 2 dozen boxes in my day I must say that this was the most difficult. I plan on building a Fiber box molded to the car so that I can squeeze out enough air space to make the next one ported. I have had the RF power amp and P3 Subs for more than a year now just need the time.

    (not sure how this will work I tried to link my pics that are in P-bucket but it said that the administrator does not allow from there?)

    post-8312-1225560764_thumb.jpg

    post-8312-1225562359_thumb.jpg

  13. if u have a 99-2001 and ur bumperette is colored, it's an aftermarket cover that sticks on the bumperette itself.

    if it's 2002-2005, the bumperette is colored and clipped to the bumper cover. you'll have to pull the bumper cover off to reattach the bumperette.

    if it's 99-2001 and it's not colored, i think it's also clipped on. not sure if the bumper cover needs to be removed to do that.

    Just learned something new, Can anyone tell me a good source to get the covers?

  14. Hi guys just wanna let you all knw the k&n cai sucks it made my MAF sense the the car was too rich in fuel that my car kinda chokes on a high rpm range installed the old airbox and everythings back to normal! No thanx to k&n for sure.... Im just wondering has anybody encounterd the problem? mine doesnt show the cel light but really runs lousy is there a way we can fool the MaF sensor so it wont be running rich? any replies would be appreciated thnx! :renntech:

    Hmm I am not quite sure what to make of this as I have custom built draft and positive ram air systems on many cars and not run into that problem. I would check your exhaust system and general engine health(plugs, etc). Generally the computer adds more fuel due to the reading from the MAF sensor, and the ambient air temp sensor, and if your engine is running too rich I would have to say it is not because of 15% more air flow. I would dare speculate that your car is merely surviving as it is. Then when you added the K&N filter you only magnified the problem. I would almost have to say that the culprit is more than likely what you are thinking, lack of fuel. To get deeper one would need more info, (old Filter, dirty plugs, dirty inj.'s) I would assume that in the P's you might run into a dirty MAF sensor due to humidity and dust, but one would think that would cause the sensor to read less air flow not more, but you can never rule out Murphy!HTH

    Also I have read that others have had issues with the filter oil tainting the MAF Sensor. GL

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