violaGT3

Did you try relieving the pressure on the steering wheel - by turning slightly in each direction?

Could it be a dead battery?

From the owners manual:

Key Stuck in Ignition?

* Do not insert the ignition key into the ignition if the vehicle battery is discharged: the ignition key can no longer be removed.

* The key cannot be removed until the vehicle electrical system is supplied with power again.

Hmm You learn something new everyday here!

I was looking at getting some new lloyd mats for my car.. and was wondering how black mats look in a car with space grey + CF interior? also, is there anyone who discounts the llloyd mats for renntech / pca members?

:renntech:

Hi I like mine just fine. I have black Porsche mats I use instead of my gray so they do not get stained. Also I too have space gray with full carbon fiber.

HOLY CRAP!

Please STOP, do for the love of your cars not put sandpaper on your headlights. They are treated much like camera lense filters and if you remove this coating your headlights will start turning yellow and clouding (look at a 5 year old Ford, Dodge,etc.). If someone is truely having a problem with their headlights Post a pic and I will check in from time to time with a remedy. The best cure all for Polycarbonates is metal polish, use either Meguiar's, or Eagle One paste in the little round container. First clean the headlight with soap and water then using moderate pressure and a wax applicator pad rub it into the headlight like you would wax a car in a circular motion. A little elbow grease and about 3-4 minutes will clear most imperfections from the headlight without destroying the coatings. Then buff it off by hand! The surface temperature can incrase dramatically in polycarbonates and they will blister, mar, burn quickly so I highly recommend all work is done by hand. Heck try it on your neighbors cluncker, put a smear on half of one of his yellowed opaqued headlights rub it in for 2-3 minutes and then buff it off.

I own a Window company and we restore Bullet Proof Glass in Banks etc. Yes we do use a sanding kit, a professional sanding kit, with a water feed line and a slurry catch, and adjustable speed settings. A power drill and a pad of any kind can go from a time saver to destructive in about 10 seconds flat, and if you use these on treated headlights the heat and friction will actually cause the coatings to peel off in some cases. Many people have wasted their money on plastic restoring products and met with less than desireable results. These products are like car wax they are for the maintenance of the surface not for restoring that 20 year old sun burnt no clear coat having excuse for why your car appears to be slightly blue paint to new. The trend of poly carbonates and saving money has the manufacturers producing them as they are cheaper and lighter than glass, but to treat them like Porsche and a couple others do is to expensive. These products are and effort to give consumers a tool to prevent this from advancing but it cannot do what is necessary to optically repair the surface. Just take a minute and ask yourself what do you do to the plastic trim on your car to protect it? Well now consider that your headlights are plastic. . . . HTH

I have a 1999 996 C2 Cab 6-speed. It's got around 54,000 miles on it. I bought it at 47,000 a little over a year ago. Has the oriignal engine. Had to repalce the water pump becasuse of a pin-hole leak and the mass air flow sensor on oen of the cylinders. Other than that, OK. I have one question, though. I bought it from a dealer and he told me that the cars burn oil as a matter of course. Is that true? I don't seem to have a leak, but I can smell oil burn with the top down and I do have to add some periodically, but not terribly often.

Hmm You know I found myself chasing an odor like burning oil or something. But I have come to believe it is actually the clutch. My car has had the suspension tuned by Champion Moto. and it sits tucked on 295-30-19's. It is a little more difficult to start my car rolling then other porsches that I have driven. I just think that the amount of torque necessary to keep it going and the fact that I get on it sometimes overwork the clutch a little. = ) Besides I have never had any oil loss, ever. I guess I'll find out when I hopefully get the clutch changed. I've been planning it for over a year now!?! Best of luck with your smell I hope it's nothing bad.

I went to hell and back with my '99 C2 996.

Three months after purchasing (w/ no warranty), my engine died at 100k miles :angry: . Acquired a rebuilt engine for ~$8k. In the next two weeks, a major leak developed in my overflow coolant tank, so that was replaced (along with hoses). A month later, I had to be towed yet again due to a broken shift linkage. I spent the next couple weeks sorting out CEL problems (due to MAF, and then a deteriorated gas tank seal).... Good lord it was a pain for awhile.

At 112k miles now, and I haven't had a problem in 8 months (daily driver), and hope to have plenty of engine life... I absolutely love my car even though I had to traverse through hell.

This is what I was finding time and time again while looking for RMS issues and it had me thinking do I want to put money into the engine with replacing all these items or just do a 3.8 swap? I am glad you made it through rough waters hopefully it'll be smooth sailing from here on out.

65,300 and still kicking......well sort of. Just did a 4,700 mile round trip to Spain/France again.... I think that;s my 5th! Absolutely no problems at all. But yesterday after getting home and 1st day back at work I drove 6 miles, drove over a 10" coach bolt which promptly entered and exited my tyre but not before shattering my wheel caliper and then exiting out through the bodywork of mt rear arch!!!

Insurance job.

Otherwise, the car is still like mint. No leaks now on my 8th RMS albeit the 8th is a Motorsport seal fitted in reverese. Fingers always crossed.

That sucks! I hope the got it all fixed.

WOW! I am shocked this thread is still going. It's really great to see all the survivors. I ended up doing some searching to learn what I could about the engines after the RMS issue sparked my interest. I was shocked to see all the catastrophic failures. To add myself to the role call I just turned 80kmls on my 99C2 GT3 Clone. To answer the question about me playing the viola, no I do not play. The name was a typo that I never bothered to fix. My car is a Violet Chromaflair But the name in the paper work voilametallic. So I put the voila and GT3 together and it became VoilaGT3. I liked the fact that "Voila" was a term for surprise, and the irony that my car has the full GT3 kit on it, so surprise my C2 is a GT3! I have been out of the country off and on for the past year and that is why I had not responded. Thank you all for your entries it is really great to hear how others are doing with their cars, it is also a great resource to help troubleshoot things like, "is my car the only one that the roof rattles when the sunroof is open?" or "is it normal for the AC compressor to go out at 65kmls?". I suffered these issues with mine as well as the tensioner bearing fell off the engine on the way to my parents on christmas, in the middle of nowhere, at 1AM. That was not fun, I ended up being stranded as it was the holidays and of course the local dealership told me 2 weeks. I called Sunset Imports and they had the part there in 2 days. :clapping: I am getting ready to have alot of work done that it has needed for a little while, RMS, 2nd gear pop out, clutch, and replace the AC drier that Aristocrat Motors in Kansas City neglected to replace at the time they put in the new compressor! The guy actually told me that I told him not to do it?? I said why, so I can pay you guys for another 3 hours work time to do it later?? I should have known their service guy told me it would be $300+ for a new key and $100 to program it?? I asked him if he could see the Rennlist and PCA stickers on my car? Then I called Sunset. I love those guys.

I LOVE MY PORSCHE!

any of you guys out there hit the road with your porsches? i'm talking 500+ miles on the highway at a time, just wondering if any of you actually do it wiht such a nice car, also how do you prepare for such a journey in such a car?

The cars are great to drive as long as you don't have a droning exhaust. But one killer thing is make sure that the wheels shop who put your new Bridgestone R960's on put the wheel lock key back in your car! The only flat I have had in 10 years and I got stuck in a hole in the wall called Lebo KS. The town closed @ 9pm and no one would tow me, not AAA, no one. My insurance called everyone in the area but since my car is lowered they would touch it. So I sat in the car from 9:30pm till 10 am the next day where the owner of the KC tire shop came down and brought me the wheel lock key and helped me change the tire. . . .

Let the story concern you its for real. = (

I had my car (99 996 C2 coupe) idling for about 20 mins this morning, and noticed that both exhaust pipes, in addition to maybe more exhaust than normal, had also been dripping water. (NOT coolant- it was not sweet, nor orangey in colour) The amount would probably be a total of about 1/2 cup per side. I watched things progress, and there was a consistant two - three drops per minute. I drove the car around the block, and the same problem kept occuring.

Is this normal?

Also, I noticed that at idle, my oil pressure was only about 2 bar or so. When the revs were increased, the pressure went almost immediately up to 4.5-5 bar.

Is this normal?

Thanks for the help- I am obviously new to the Porsche world and this site is a great resource! Thanks again.

I agree with RFM. These have an air pump on them, add that to cool dense air and Voila' you've got lean steam.

Can anyone provide instructions on how to disassemble and remove the rear seat backs? I'd like to remove mine when I install my harness guide bar.

Thanks,

I'm thinking of removing the back seats in my '06 997. More of a GT3 look. Loren suggested I reach out to you to see how you car came out. I want to remove all including seat belts and bottoms. I look forward to hearing back from you!

Thanks, Don

Hi it is really easy once you've done it. Keep that in mind as you walk through these instructions. On each side you see little black plastic bolt covers, snap them out/off, and you'll see a bolt holding an adjustable bracket for the seat back. Now remove the bolt and do the same on the other side. In between the backs you'll see a little triangular shaped plastic cover(#8 in the diagram). You'll need to raise the front lip of it away from the carpeting and at the same time pry it towards the front of the car. it is shaped a lot like a dog's head biting the bar that the seat backs are on bear that in mind when prying. If you put a screwdriver in the back of the dogs mouth and pry it off of your seat bar. You'll see the final piece of the puzzle once it is off. HTH

has anyone tried using an exterior motion detector on their car and if so what brand and does porsche make one that is compatible with the already existing factory alarm. Thanks already had car vandalized once and would like to deter futher idiots.

Hi, I have a Viper system with the proximity sensors "motion Detectors". I sincerely doubt that Porsche makes a system like that. Most High end cars run a Lo Jack system that'll deter thieves from damaging the vehicle, if they steal it as it'll kill the car where it sits after a set period and they are more concerned with getting away from it than anything else. But it does nothing to prevent a retard from being jealous or having enough respect not to swing open the door on their 85 Skylark into your car. Honestly I disabled the warn away feature, as people today will just chuck a rock at it if they really want to be pricks, and I have a 2-way remote that gives me a visual cue of a problem. I have caught a guy in a Merc SUV in San Fran nailing my passenger door with his door and then ever so nicely trying to rub it off, but he learned dents don't rub off. I believe my method works well though. Occasionally I wear my H&K .45 on my hip for all to see and most will just steer clear in time. Good Luck.

P.S. Depending on the model you get you'll need a transponder bypass, I think that was the name. My car has remote start and it allows the alarm remote to operate functions that normally you would have to have the key in the car for. You can Google DEI as they make something like 12 different car alarms, and read up on all the options.

Now I have posted this on another website so I am going to try and explain my issue better in hopes of some better ideas of what is going on.

The main issue is when reversing my car and turning the wheels I hear a thumping/rubbing coming from the front end of the car it doesn't seem to matter if this is first thing in the morning or after a long drive. It doesn't seem to matter what direction I am turning the sound/feeling is the same. I know it is cold here and that might place a little part in this but won't I experience the same thing going forward and turning? I would really like to try and figure this out without having to take it in. Thanks in the advance.

Oddly I have experienced a odd bump and dragging/rubbing sound when reversing. It is part of the large scale maintenance I am about to tackle on my car. With my experience in racing and other cars(not Porsches) I associate it with a failing/damaged ball joint. It seems to be that when reversing and that the passenger wheel makes an odd knock and then its like the tire has an incorrect toe and drags a little. I do not notice while driving forward only when reversing bring the car out to the left. I'll post if I find a definite result. HTH

Um... if you read the Porsche TSBs for installing the Aerokit side skirts - the instructions say to screw the side panels to the chassis.

"Using a hand drill and a phillips head bit, screw in the 3.5 x 16 countersunk sheetmetal screws for the retaining strips."

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z130/Vi...T3/PICT0998.jpg

Would you call the entire skirt the retaining strip? I'll have a look at my Parts CD. But the kit is factory installed and it never had all these screws in it like this.

P.S. sorry about the dirty picture but had the car out in the messy roads and haven't cleaned it up yet. = (

with all my other cars, i use continentals or bridgestone tyres... everyone rates the conti sportcontact2 or michelin ps2 on porsches... what about the bridgestone s02 or s02a... anyone with any experience of them... heard they are quieter than the other 2 but what about mileage and more importantly wet grip and braking?..

Hi, I have the new All Season pole positions (RE960's?) on my 99 C2 and they are quieter right off the bat. They have good traction all around for driving. I sometimes hit freeway entrance ramps @ 50mph or better for grins, and I have not once felt unsure or nervous about loosing traction. I would have to say they have better wet traction than the P-Zero's I had run for the past few years. They definitely have better lateral grip on wet roads. They are good in the snow, not on ice, but that being said they will tend to lateral slide during turns in the snow. HTH

Just want to show the forum my C4S and the newly installed Misha GT2M rear wing.

Thanks Misha for a quality product.

It is gorgeous! I would look for some white and chrome wheels set up like the GT3 color match wheels. Probably some multi-spoke like 18 spoke eurosport wheels they would look good with the rear end vents. IMHO

Here's a wheel I think would look good, mind you that they should be white wheels with chrome or polished lips. = )

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

I had the front end redone as well as the ground effects. I went to put the under-body panels back on the car that I had off to do some work and get the car painted and I saw that they let loose with an automatic self tapping screw gun all the way along my side skirts! I am really looking for someone with some imagination. I am mortified and speechless. You could probably add a little pissed to that. Has this happened to anyone before. Please give me ideas here can they even repair the metal to prevent rust? I sincerely doubt it as factory holes for ground effects cuase premature rust. This is supposed to be the premier body shop in KC. Most of the high end Stealers use them???

ViolaGT3,

Based on your description of the body shop using self-tapping screws I share your concern for future possible corrosin/rusting. DId the shop tell you if they used a silicone like sealer on the threads of the the screws before assembly?? Are the screws stainless steel?? If the answer is no to both questions, then you could request they reinstall the srews with the silicone sealer and that should help prevent future problems, although I don't understand why they wouldn't have used the clips or adhesive tape I understand Porsche recooends for the installation if they are a "high-end" shop.

Good luck!! Demosan :cheers:

Hi well they did not say one word to me about it I just went to put the under body panel back on and I saw shiney little bolt/screw heads all the way down the side of my car? I am really not happy at all. I cannot believe that they would do it and then not to tell me. that they drilled about 20 or so holes in the bottom of my car. I don't understand why they did anything in the first place with out contacting me about the matter?????

I had the front end redone as well as the ground effects. I went to put the under-body panels back on the car that I had off to do some work and get the car painted and I saw that they let loose with an automatic self tapping screw gun all the way along my side skirts! I am really looking for someone with some imagination. I am mortified and speechless. You could probably add a little pissed to that. Has this happened to anyone before. Please give me ideas here can they even repair the metal to prevent rust? I sincerely doubt it as factory holes for ground effects cuase premature rust. This is supposed to be the premier body shop in KC. Most of the high end Stealers use them???

The smells can drive you crazy on a 996. I came from a deadly quiet non-smell 740i, the 996 was like "what the %$^*!! smells. Had the car inspected and it was all perfect. Watch your coolant leve for sure, but eventually I got used to it.

I''m very new to my 996, it smells like burning rubber - previous owner says it has always smelled like that. Is that what you describe?

Danny

I have been hunting down a smell I had associated with my tires rubbing, but they were not, I thought maybe it was them cambering in as my suspension is tuned and it has a stout camber, the tires were found to be cool and without issues of rubbing or grinding. I will be knee deep replacing the RMS, clutch, and other goodies in the next couple of weeks and I'll see if there is something out of sight causing this. Good Luck with it. I have not had an issue from it in the 2.5 years I have been looking for it. So who knows.

Hi All!

I am looking to do my own clutch replacement as it is that time. I was looking for a DIY on it but did not locate one and wondered if someone knew of a good resource. Also I am needing the part numbers for a couple of parts in the clutch setup. They are apparently a common replacement/upgrade when doing the clutch. I am pretty sure one is the actuating arm? and the other is directly linked to that. The problem is the arm bends and makes depressing the clutch more difficult than normal. TIA!

Loren, I come from the "muscle car" world originally where AIR/EGR was removed quite regularly to unleash horsepower. Do you think these cars will yield a noticeable difference with emissions disabled?

Im not really a muscle car guy but I believe the old smog pumps were driven by the fan/accessory/serpentine belt and thats why they were removed to 'gain' power. The boxsters system is basically an electric fan, so removing it would do nothing for you other than make a nice check engine light pop up.

Hey I'm an old muscle car guy and the point of pulling all that mess out was to stop the vacuum loss in the system. All the crazy little hoses and valves and bypasses really did a number on tuned carbs.

Anyways has anyone ever replaced it to see if it is just a worn out thing? My 99C2 does it but my 03GT3 does not.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=31056

Cool I did not find that searching, but it still doesn't tell me if there is a difference between the CDC-3/4? I have him ready to ship it and I know it is original Porsche and that makes a difference to me. Thanks though Loren!

Hi All.

I am looking to buy a replacement CD magazine for my daily which has the CDC-3 changer. I am talking with a guy selling a Magazine but he's not sure if it is for a 3 or a 4. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference and if so how to tell which one it is. TIA

Since you have to replace every battery in about 4-5 years I see no need to purchase an expensive one.

You just need a "good" one.

Here here, I would have to agree on this one. I have a Optima Red Warranty replacement new in box sitting in my garage. The original one died after my car was parked for 6 months.

I went to Advance Auto and bought their gold battery and I have not had the same problem. Including a 6 month period in my garage only being started for 10 minutes every 2 weeks same as before. So unless you really want 20,000 CCA or a 5lb battery just get the standard replacement, it even has the vent tube thingy. If you do go with a parts haus I would get their gold line as they stand by their warranty and it has saved me many times as I travel alot.

HTH ;)

Thanks a lot guys. I have been trying to figure it out for some time. I definitely only hear it on start up. It does not do it from place to place. Only on the first start of the day and not every time then either maybe it has to do with the amount of time between starts. It is definitely a unique sound. Loud like a rod but more busy/methodical if that makes any sense? I have not had the pleasure of hearing an anchor drop but, yea, I could say it would be pretty darn close.

Again Many Thanks WVICARY and PTEC!

I think the timing chains, they can rattle after one or two days of stand still when the oil is leaking to the oil pan, it's not exactly uncommon on 996 -986.

Hmm, I guess I need to look at the layout of chains. It does not happen every time, I can say that if I go from place to place it does not do it but occasionally when I start the car in the garage it makes this noise. Never quite paid attention to the time span between starts when it does this, but I will now. Thanks