nota911

Greetings I have been offered the opportunity to acquire a 2005 Cayenne Turbo. The car was originally sold in the U.S where the owner got Porsche to buy it back because of unresolved problems with door locks and tire wear. Porsche brought it back to Germany where it was repaired and modified to EU standards (nav, rear indicator lights, speedo, etc.). It was then sold and imported to Sweden, where I am located. All this according to the current owner, whom I am meeting on Monday. He claims to be able to show documentation to verify the story. I have taken out a Carfax report and it appears to confirm the timeline. What I am wondering is why would Porsche go to all this trouble? Why not just auction off the car and be done with it? Are they afraid an unrepaired lemon might come back to haunt them? Is this standard Porsche practice? I find it really unlikely the story is a ruse, since it is so easy to check, but you never know. I have no problem buying the car (actually a swap with a seldom-used BMW I have) if the repairs can be verified and the rest of the story checks out. There is much less of a stigma attached to lemon buybacks here than in the U.S. The car looks incredibly well kept:

Finally got it out after I switched to a couple of steel grill skewers. The instruction image had me confused as it looked like a standard flat screwdriver was used but the gaps in those clips are small.

Hmm. I think I found the 2 locking tabs on top of the vent section. I have inserted trim removal tools as far as they go and there is clearly a feeling of them clicking in. Problem is, the instructions are unclear - am I supposed to get to the clips THROUGH the vents or BETWEEN them and the top of the dash? I have tried both, with identical results - the darn thing is as stuck as before. I don't believe it is supposed to be this hard.

Thanks a million! I would never have figured that out myself. I could easily have ruined the entire frame by pulling too hard. This site is a gold mine!

I'm sure this has been covered before but I just can't find anything. I started dismantling the dash today, the objective is to get full access to the radio cavity and get the radio surround on the bench for easier adjustment of the new cage. But I hit a brick wall. I do not know how to remove the plastic frame with the cupholder and the two vents. I got the "horseshoe" off (boy were those colored switch connectors a B%£ to get off), loosened the four Torx screws plus the two holding the metal radio support bracket, but there is something holding the vent/cupholder section still that I don't know how to deal with. I thought it would be just a couple of clips, but I have pulled pretty hard and I feel if I pull any harder it will break into pieces. Are there any screws I have missed? Or do I need to remove the vents and/or cupholder separately?

Bill, do you recall which fuse you connected to for the switched feed? I have just discovered, like you did, that the a/c panel harness just has an ignition-on feed. So I am going to have to run a wire to the fuse panel too.

Forgot the important question - how do I get the enclosure out of the car?

Apologies for resurrecting this ancient thread, but did any of you who have this enclosure ever measure the maximum vertical and horizontal mounting space available where the woofers are situated? I would love to fit 2 8" low profile woofers (probably unlikely), or 6.5" midbass drivers. The idea is to completely gut its internals, stiffen it with GRP, and try to tune it with stuffing and some manipulation of the port. Another idea I was toying with was to put a 10" subwoofer in the center of the box, but I quickly concluded that's a non starter.

Maybe this can be of help to someone. In the absence of replies I went ahead and uninstalled the CD changer and amp and plugged in the Autoleads adapter harness I had purchased. I also tested each individual speaker connection both at the ISO plug (headunit) end and at the other end where the harness connects to the large factory amp connector (image below) So on my 2003 Boxster S with the CDR23 head unit, optically connected amp and CD changer in the frunk, and Bose speaker enclosure behind the seats, the pinouts are as follows. Autoleads harness end/factory harness end (from factory amp to speakers): White Pair: left dash speaker -> Yellow Pair Violet Pair: right door speaker -> Violet Pair Green Pair: left door speaker -> Green Pair Gray Pair: right dash speaker -> Red Pair Yellow/black Pair -> brown/red-blue Pair to Battery +/- So the first 4 pairs allow a new head unit to power the dash and door speakers just by plugging in the ISO connector. The Autoleads harness has bullet connectors so the four channels can be reassigned to different pins in the ISO connector if necessary, or re routed to an amp. Then there are some open ended, 10" long wires at the amp location connector on the Autoleads harness. Here's their counterparts at the factory harness end: Red Pair -> Blue Pair (not connected to any speaker in my car) yellow-green/brown Pair -> none yellow-gray/brown Pair -> none Blue Pair -> none Orange Pair -> white/white-brown Pair to Rear Enclosure Which provides the following useful information: Very easy to just plug in a new head unit using built in amplification to dash and door speakers, using the Autoleads harness. No new amp necessary. Because the Autoleads harness has bullet connectors on the speaker leads, it is simple to select wich speakers get connected to the head unit or to an amp in the frunk. The rear Bose speaker enclosure is wired as a SINGLE channel. So if the mid/tweeters in the enclosure are to be powered separately from the "woofers", an additional 2 channels of speaker wiring needs to be routed from the frunk to behind the seats. This is in contrary to the amp pinout posted here which suggests three channels to the rear. Without a diagram of the internals of the factory Bose amp, I cannot determine if it powers the dash or door speakers, or both, as they are all wired to the amp connector.

I know this subject has been covered extensively but I have not found answers to these specific questions. I have a 2003 S with the Bose system, CDR-23 and MOST connected CD changer and amp: I want to install a 2-DIN head unit, use its built in amplification for the dash and door speakers (initially retaining the Bose speakers), remove the CD changer and Bose amp and add a separate amp to drive the Bose sub/rear drivers. Alternatively, a 5 channel amp and not use the HU power at all. 1) What do I need to move the AC controls to where the CD storage is located? 2) Is there a 2-DIN fascia kit that allows me to retain the cupholder above the HU? 3) Is there a harness adapter available that connects to the speaker wire plug that currently plugs into the Bose amp, so I can connect the existing speakers to the new amp without having to cut factory wiring? 4) Any issues to expect when driving the Bose speakers with a new amp (Bose speakers are 6 ohms I believe)? 5) Is there a remote turn on lead in the factory harness that connects to the Bose amp? Many thanks in advance

Okay, will check. Previous owner had the bumper off to clean out debris so maybe he dislocated it. Does the bumper have to come off for replacement/reattachment of the sensor?

and can the wheels be restored? Looks like oxidization UNDER the clear coat...

Greetings, Porsche noob here, first post. Just bought a 2003 Boxster S, awesome car. But one little problem is bugging me: the exterior temp indication is wildly erratic; some of the time it shows the correct temp while at other times it will jump up to 46-50 degrees Celsius and stay in that interval. Is this indicative of a failing sensor? Thanks in advance