Peter986

Has anyone installed GT3 or other seats in a 2009 Boxster or Cayman yet? I am in the process of buying a pair of GT3 seats from a friend and we did a test fitting tonight. However, we could not figure out how to release the second smaller connector on the stock seats. It looks like you need to pull out a plastic tab to release the connector, but it did not seem to work. Any words of wisdom?

The threads in my front wheel carrier got damaged while taking off the brake caliper during rotor replacement so I need to replace the wheel carrier. If I don't remove the entire strut assembly, but only remove the wheel carrier from the strut, will I need to do an alignment afterward? Thanks.

I started my car yesterday morning. There was a clattering noise not unlike lifters that are not pumped up but a little louder. After I drove a couple miles, the CEL came on. When I stopped about 5 miles later, the noise was gone away completely and has not returned. The car ran fine the whole time. Durametric says the code is P0306 (misfire in cylinder 6). Not too informative... Any BTDT?

Actually, I am not using FM; I am using a direct connection to my Blaupunkt head unit. On another car, I tried the FM modulator. The sound quality was not as good as the direct connect and the FM reception was not too consistent, either. If you can, go with the direct connect.

I had mine (Sirius) in the front by the cabin filter like in the picture. Reception is adequate but not great compared to the same radio in another car. I put mine on the clam shell panel and ran the wire: on the bottom of the clamshell to the side, down the clamshell arm, under the rear padding by the drain holes and down the door threshold and up to the receiver. The reception is MUCH better.

When mine was first done, I did not have the center radiator. I only had a problem with it getting too hot on a track day at NHIS on a day with the temps in the 90s. On other faster tracks, it was not a problem. If you don't track in hot weather you should have no problem. I am using the stock dual mass flywheel with a Sachs sport clutch. At the time we did this, it was one of the only solutions available. I was told that the clutch arrangement for the 6 speed (996 or 'S') is different and won't mate up directly.

This is correct. The problem is that the brake drum on the inside of the rear caliper (for the e-brake) is a different diameter on the S brakes. I have 996 calipers and rotors (same as S) on the front of my car and just left the stock brakes on the rear. These work just fine.

Can you give me some details on where you got the tube and intercooler couplers?

Not sure if the pedal was what had the most effect or not. I suspect that either the pedal or return spring were the most important. I just followed the recommendation of the TSB. It sure fixed it for my car. The only other part to consider is the little bushings on the sides of the pedal where it meets the shaft it rotates on.

This stuff was made by TTP in Germany. It is all very nice stuff. We did have a problem with the intake system. The air box was very nice, but they were using a flexible hose to connect the air box to the throttle body. The hose rubbed against something and caused an air leak and I would think a smooth pipe would be better for intake. The guys at AutoSport fabricated a better set up for me. Perhaps by now TTP has a better solution.

Interesting... The engine came new from Porsche and was never installed in a 996. I wonder if that is why it has a Boxster part no. Any idea whether it matters?

I have a '99 996 motor in my Boxster. I just replaced the separator today. My old part no. was 996.107.023.51. The new one they sent me was 996.107.023.54. It looks the same except that there are two extra fittings on it. They are small-about the size to connect to vacuum hoses. I just plugged them up. Everything seems to be OK. Anybody else run into this or did I install the wrong part? TIA

These days I think you can get a used one for $4-$5K. When I got mine, I bought one new from Porsche. It was a lot more. :( I think it has 295 hp stock in a 996. Supposedly, in this configuration it has 310 hp. I have no way of knowing if it is that high or not.

The parts costs were about $3,000. The big items were: $550 - engine mounting kit $1200 - Sachs sport clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing $700 - dual mass flywheel (the original one needed replacement) $350 - throttle housing to convert from e-gas to cable This also included new anti-freeze, new Mobil 1 oil, oil filter, etc., but does not include headers and sport cats. The car ran great with the original headers and cats, but ran out of wind at about 5500 rpm. I subsequently had a cone air filter, performance headers and cats installed and it now pulls strongly all the way to red line. This also does not include the cost of the motor and ECU. Labor ran $2000. This also included reprogramming the ECU. Remember this was 4 years ago and mine was the first conversion they did so they were learning to some extent. They have done some since then so I would guess that it would cost less now. Maybe the parts costs are lower now as well. I am sure they can give you a good estimate. The car is transformed. It makes it into what it should have been to start with. Email me if you want more detail.

I think the throttle body is a different size for the 3.4. The stock exhaust (at least on my '98) will fit the new engine. However, it works much better, especially at the top end, with headers and sport cats. The stock muffler is adequate. The only cooling problem I had before I put on a center radiator was when I was on the track at NHIS on a 90+ degree F day. For street driving you should have no problem. I have 45000 miles since the swap was done on my car. The only problem I had was a problem with the replacement computer after a year or so. I think it was just defective-it is fine now. The work was done by Autosport Engineering in Stow, Mass.

Some reasons to change the rotors: 1. they are worn below the acceptable limit (thickness) 2. they have too long cracks emanating from the holes (if you have an S) 3. they are warped and cannot be turned FYI, it is not too difficult to change the rotors on these cars. If you have 50,000 miles on the original rotors, you may need new ones.

My '98 Boxster (with '99 3.4 motor) has the original air/oil separator as far as I know. At least it has the style that has the round part oriented horizontally. I plan to make a bunch of road trips this summer. Is it likely to fail and does it make sense to get a new one and put it on now to eliminate problems on long drives? TIA

I had been getting noise for about 3 years. Apparently, the effort required to operate the pedal had been increasing as well. After installing the clutch, the effort was MUCH smoother and it was much easier to operate. Obviously, YMMV.

Total parts cost was $139.35 from Automobile Atlanta. The silicon spray was over $20 of that. It took me about two hours to do it because I needed to figure out how it came apart. I could now do it in half the time. Hope this helps.

I won't be getting back to it for a couple weeks. I will report back in when I get a chance. BTW, lubricating the moving parts eliminiated the noise and roughness temporarily. I finally got around to replacing the clutch pedal parts on my '98 to get rid of the noise and rough action. I ordered the following parts as others have recommended (may differ from year to year): 996 423 139 10 Pedal 996 423 081 12 Power spring 996 423 315 06 pin 000 043 204 40 Silicon spray This job is not too hard as long as you can get your eyes under the dash. Here is how I did it in case you are contemplating a DIY: 1. Remove ventilation hose to side vent directly under the steering wheel so you can see better. Just pull the two ends out from the other hoses. 2. Remove pin holding clutch master cylinder to pedal. There is a small clip holding this pin in. Remove the clip and push the pin out. These are parts #2 and #3 in the picture earlier in this thread. 3. Remove the switch on the front of the pedal (part #1 in the picture) by rotating and pulling out.. 4. Remove the power spring (part #5 in the picture). First put a cotter pin or small nail through the small hole in the end of the metal rod that sticks out of the end of the power spring. You will see what I mean by examining the new one. If you don't do this, it will fly apart when you remove it from the pedal because it is under tension (don't ask how I know :eek: ). Now remove the other end of the power spring from the pedal. 5. Remove 10 mm nuts (3) which secure the sheet metal frame which surrounds the pedal. There are two towards the inside of the car and one towards the outside 6. Remove clip (part #4 in picture) from end of shaft. 7. Slide clutch pedal and metal frame off shaft. You will probably need to remove a few of the relays on the relay panel. Now just spray all places where parts contact and put it back together. Don't forget to remove the cotter pin from the back of the power spring once it has been re-installed. In my case, the difference in clutch pedal action was night and day. Good luck.

I won't be getting back to it for a couple weeks. I will report back in when I get a chance. BTW, lubricating the moving parts eliminiated the noise and roughness temporarily.

It came from my service manual that has had all the factory updates (95 supplements). I must not have the supplements. Do you know if it is possible to get them from a dealer?

Thanks!! By the way, where did that diagram come from? I have the (lousy) factory manuals and I did not see it there.

My clutch pedal on my '98 has been squeaking for quite a while. I got all the parts in the TSB. However, I cannot see how to get the pedal off. Any BTD? TIA

Actually, this is a big DUH on my part. It was all put together fine, but I was a little nervous about letting the top up or down run all the way. No way could I have fixed my top without help from this forum. THANKS EVERYONE!