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creekman

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Everything posted by creekman

  1. Hmmm, I thought I posted this, made a correction and my post evaporated. ^%##)^^@ Anyway, I'm into the removing the A/C-heater door. I wouldn't be doing it, but my A/C is slow to cool so I hope this will fix the problem. Question: Emmett says that the servo arm is under the console, does he mean forward of the console under the dash. If that's the case it would appear to me that you have to remove part of the radio stack? Update: To access the servo motor and arm you need to remove the foam pad that covers the area under the dash and forward from where the glove box ends. There're 3 slotted plastic screws that are located on the rearward edge of the foam covering. You need to be able to stand on your head for this. So far I'm not sure I have the 7mm nut that removes the servo arm. I've got to get my inspection mirror for a better look. Getting close, no cigar... Thanks, Mitch
  2. It's time-consuming. I'm lost as to where to remove the servo arm. Emmett says it's under the center console? Do you mean it's under the dash forward of the center console? I don't see any way to get there unless you start removing dash parts. The tutorial says to remove the kick panel on the passenger side to expose the servo arm? Can we clarify exactly where the servo arm is for my 996? Thanks, Mitch These are not in order but could be added to the tutorial.
  3. I have plugs all over the place that have broken keepers. The plugs will stay engaged and probably less stressful than trying to get all the wires back in the new socket. Porsche spec a bad plastic for this. I have a '65' T-Bird and the rubber plugs are perfect after 50 years. My gripe is that Porsche has a great car but misses on some of these smaller items, and they seem to keep doing the same thing expecting a different outcome. Mitch
  4. Several years ago I looked into replacing the plugs behind the dash for the 3 instrument clusters. Each time I would remove the plug one of the keepers would break off. I found a company that has these dash cluster plugs, but now I can't find the information. I'm sure someone here knows where to look. I've got one more place to look. Sorry, I'm not more help...
  5. Ronnie is correct there is a 5-minute (plus/minus) delay after turning the key off and exiting the car. So the central lock system off will not lock manually with the key? I'm 'not' talking about the key fob, is that correct? I found that you must open and shut the door to make the time delay for the lights to work. If you reach in and turn the key to observe the dash lights, etc., then turn the key off without having opened and closed the door the lights will not time off. Can someone verify that... Mitch
  6. Funny, the PCA types... a couple of years ago I took the car into Porsche of San Antonio to have them look at my gas gauge on their diagnostic equipment. I was standing at the parts counter so I could see through to the shop area when the tech drove the car in, naturally, with the V8 and a cam the car rumbled into the mechanic's stall. Every mechanic came over to look, some were on the floor taking pictures. I was happy I only had to pay the $140/hr and not for the lost time.
  7. Just to clarify, the window raises and lowers to accommodate the opening and closing of the door, but when you ask the window to lower all the way down it stops short. Do you have a Benley's Repair Book, I'm sure everything you wanted to know about removing the door panel and adjusting the limit switches will be found there.
  8. Does the motor continue to run once the window stops? If the motor stops then I'm guessing it's an adjustment on your limit switch. I would think the answer is removing the door panel and not a computer problem.
  9. Thanks, Shawn... My DD is an '07' Escalade with 144,000 miles bought used. Never have removed the spark plugs. I've put 10' pieces of lumber inside, gently resting on the dash board. it's an all purpose vehicle. However slightly thirsty, but as long as we have $2.00 gas who cares. The downside is new ones are 90K, so even used ones are beyond my pocket book these days. So you don't think the foam serves any purpose and blocking the door holes is just fine? Oh, since it's just a car, you won't mind that I installed a LS3 V8 495 HP in my wide body Speed Yellow flyer. I've got a good friend in Groveport, OH who is a world renown restorer of fiberglass Porsches.
  10. Does this mean you have to remove the heater core and break into the radiator system? Or are we just lifting the heater core out of position? If the factory used an open cell foam then why would you go back with a solid covering over the holes? If the factory wanted a solid material why didn't they just install a solid door? I'm thinking I would go back with a Polyurethane Open-Cell Foam Sheet. Can anyone tell me the approximate size of the door? That way I can have the foam on hand when I take the car apart. Any other comments on this... Other than how stupid is this, I guess if Porsche can't get the IMS bearing right, why would they do any better with some cheesy foam? Sorry, just had to vent... Thanks, Mitch
  11. If you had the Durmetric OBD reader you might be able to erase the codes. I wonder if removing the battery cable for a minute or so that it might reset the computer...
  12. A shot in the dark, no pun intended... what about removing the light housing and checking all the pin slots to be sure you're getting a full engagement of the socket. Also be sure the light socket is rigidly in place in the fender housing.
  13. Notice you have a conversion, I have a 2003 LS3 996 C4S with a 495 HP.  I have 20,000 miles on the new engine, I'm doing another car project and have my Porsche for sale.  If you know of any potential buyers please send them my way, and yes...  The A/C works as well as the cruise control.

     

    There isn't another conversion that is as good as this one, I've invested a 1.5 years in the conversion and 100K, asking $69,750

    bumper_final_ft_lt.jpg

    eng_final_final.jpg

    engine_bottom.jpg

  14. DBJoe, Thanks for the links, this problem goes back a long time. I find it hard to believe that the A/C system is going to work the same way without the foam, as bad of a solution the foam is, it must have a reason for being there. However, I really don't want to have to get into it if I don't have to. However, it appears to me that my cooling has been affected so maybe the foam gods are calling me. I have my car for sale so it needs to be done I guess...
  15. Thanks, I wish that was not the case and I wouldn't have to deal with it, but at least I know what the A/C is doing, or not doing. I've hit the search button with just about every combination I can think of for info on getting to the A/C doors without success. "How to remove the A/C doors", "Replacing the foam on the A/C doors", etc. I know this has been talked about so the information is here, please pass on any links that would be applicable... Thanks, Mitch
  16. Joe, I have done the same thing, but the A/C has a good charge and it works well, but not until you have the fan on high and finally it starts cooling. So I thought there might be some connection between the foam and the slow cool...
  17. Philip, Thanks for the reply, when you decide on which foam you're going to use would you post your choice and the vendor who can supply it? Is there a definite link that shows how to get to the A/C doors? I bet the dealer would get $600-$1,000 to do that work? Thanks, Mitch
  18. Since you brought it up I know earlier posts have blown off the idea of replacing the foam. I've been picking it out of my vents for several months now. However, the cold air doesn't immediately get cold, some times it takes 10 minutes before it really starts blowing cold. Could this be the lack of foam on the doors or something else? What does the foam accomplish? Thanks, Mitch
  19. Don't know about all your questions, but I do know that you'll have to reset the airbag fault once your seat is re-connected.
  20. Tricky business... do you have a multimeter? You really need one to chase down the drain. If you have or by now borrow a multimeter you can disconnect the positive side of the battery and set the multimeter to DC Amps. Put one lead from the multimeter on the positive battery post and the other lead on the removed battery cable. Also, you'll need to have the multimeter leads plugged into the correct plug inserts as well as have the multimeter dial set on DC A 10A scale. If the above shows more than a ma draw then you can start pulling fuses. No need to pull head light fuses since you can tell if they're on or not. It's the alarm, radio, interior lights that can do this. Remember after you turn off the key it will take some time for the computer, interior lights to settle down. I've waited for an hour before I got a .06ma draw. With the interior lights just after closing the door, I showed .55A, then in time, it settled down to .06ma. Also, the alternator can leak back through the diodes so you can disconnect the lead(s) to the alternator. I found out recently that if you reach in and turn the key on to check mileage, what ever, then turn the key back off without opening and closing the door the interior lights stay on. I've never left them on long enough to find out if they time out. Always remove the key from the ignition. I'm no expert on this but have stumbled through with a similar problem... Lastly, have you had your battery load tested? Good luck, Mitch
  21. I've never had any luck doing a partial Airlift, and the Airlift directions specifically state that the system has to be completely drained for it to work. But if it worked for you that's great, I wish I knew what you know. I think Loren's advice is the best on a partial fill... Just drive the car for a few minutes, then let it sit, eventually, it will clear itself of air. I tried one of those large yellow funnels that fit into the surge tank and allow for the water to back up in the funnel. I did that one day, but all of a sudden coolant back up like an erupting volcano, coolant everywhere, but it turned out that the system had belched all the trapped air and from that point after filling it was happy.
  22. I had the surge tank hose come loose from the left radiator, so I made the repair and tried to use the Airlift tool, but because there was a residual about of coolant left in the system it wouldn't work. I filled the system up the best I could, drove the car and it over heated, then refilled and got it over filled and it over heated again. The system is very prone to trapped air and unless you completely drain the system and use the Airlift tool to fill it I think it's problematic that you're going to have trapped air for some time. The rub is getting the system drained, I hate messing with good hose connections and I don't know which hoses would get the job done. Maybe removing the hoses from the aluminum water pipes under the car. Also, the Porsche factory 3rd radiator is for an oil cooler, I had one made which is larger than the stock 3rd oil radiator. I'm not sure what the difference is between the oil and water radiators.
  23. I have an OBD II reader from Auto Zone for $100 that will cancel a water temp gauge failure, but will not cancel/erace an airbag code. My water temp gauge failure is due to the Porsche computer doesn't recognize my LS3 motor. I also have the Durametric program which does it all. More expensive and you need a PC laptop. I bought an 11" Lenovo laptop for $119 from Best Buys that will run the Durametric program. If you plan on keeping the Porsche as I assume you do, then I would consider purchasing the Durametric program. The point is if you go with a cheapie OBD reader you need to be sure what it will and will not do... Are there any considerations as to running the car without functioning CATS?
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