creekman

Fire Max,

Never give up...  Here's a link to a vendor.

FOR PORSCHE: FVD51299617, FVD 512 996 17 - READY TO SHIP - (REAR SPOILER 996 POLYTHURAN)

WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM

Fire Max,

I missed giving you all the information, I still don't know where you can purchase it, but it looks like you've cooled off on it anyway.  I'm sure this is the same as mine...

FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran | 996 | Porsche, Vehicles

WWW.PINTEREST.COM

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FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/21744010680674550/

Fire Max - 

Scott from Renegade got back to me, here's what he had to say:

FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran | 996 | Porsche, Vehicles

WWW.PINTEREST.COM

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FVD51299617-Rear spoiler 996 Polythuran

One of our members asked me where I got this spoiler, so far after 5 years I haven't been able to pull any paperwork to help him.  Would any of you know who made these.  It's rubber, not fiberglass.

Thanks for any leads,

Mitch

I got a message regarding where I got the "winglet", but it would not let me reply.  To answer the question I'll have to look through my files.

Mitch

Ok. sorry to hear you're having problems...  Tell us year and model, also what does "no go" mean...  Does the starter work, or you have nothing, Is the dash lighting up, interior lights working?  

Do you have a chart of the fuses and what they do?

Scott,

I think all that key work has to come from Germany...  I might be wrong?  No matter what you're not going to get this done at your local Ace hardware, suggest you call or go in person  to a Porsche dealer with your Vin numbers in hand and discuss your problem with the parts man.

I only say this as I had to replace a door handle and lock several years ago and we had to have the keying made in Germany through the local dealer.  You'll find this forum very helpful and filled with great members.

If you're ever down Fredericksburg way stop in and we'll have a Shiner.  ..

I am surprised that with all this historical talent on this forum someone hasn't identified your wheels.  I guess that makes them all the more rare and unique.  They look right for your car, good off-set, 19's add to the look and they have a clean design.  What are the tire sizes?  

I'm a wheel guy, I think the right wheel can make the car.  Here's mine...  285's and 305's X 19"

At 19" I doubt that...  However what difference does it make...  They're cool looking wheels and probably one of the reasons you bought the car...

I can't blame you for wanting the car, it has a lot of personality...

I don't know about the wheels, but wheels and car are "bad to the bone".  You did good, congratulations...

I just read your post again and like Hardtailer I question why you call the bolt, 'reverse torx'?  Is there a chance you tighten the bolt rather than loosen it.  Those bolts were never very tight anyway...

Knowing you have a problem you might soak the remaining screw with a good penetrant over night before trying to remove it.  Since the mounting bracket I'm guessing is aluminum and the screws are steel you might have some galvanic action going on.  Hopefully the screws were not over tighten in the first place as lens are subject to cracking and checking.  My C4 lens assemblies a number of years ago were $500 each so treat with care.

I wonder depending on the mounting brackets you could remove the mounting bracket so you could work on apply penetrant from the back side and maybe even grab the bolt with vise grips  and turn the bolt out from the back of the bracket?

Mike or Kelly, or shared address, or none of my business...  Anyway the compressor clutch is extremely sensitive to the gap of the pulley to the plate.  I'd measure the gap, I 'think' it should measure in thousands of an inch.  Have you checked to be sure you have 12V.  I have sympathy for you since I have somewhat the same condition.  It has taken as long as 10 minutes before the clutch engages .  For reason that delay has come down to less than 5 minutes.

Mitch

Geeez, can't a guy get a little sympathy...  The new $12.00 back up camera works great, 170 degree view and much sharper than the old one that went south.  While we had the rear bumper cover off we looked at the quiet muffler system that has never worked from the time I bought the car...≥...  It now works, not sure what it's value is, less showing off to your best friend...

Yep, car started and no more airbag fault...  E1 covers the following:

Alarm control module

Daytime running light

Info system

Instrument cluster

Radio

Rollover control module

Terminal 86's ?

OK boys, true confession... Here's what happen, I borrowed a back up camera and removed the radio head and plugged in the 'camera in' cable, removed a fuse and took a spade connector and crimp it on to the positive red wire, removed a 7.5A fuse from E-1 and plugged the spade connector into the fuse socket.  Here's where I screwed up I put the fuse back into E2.  E2 was an empty slot, but the thought occurred to me which slot to go back.  I'm not very angil in my old age but in appeared that E1 was not a working slot I couldn't see the fuse receptacle well enough to see both slots.

Anyway, an x-Porsche mechanic came over this afternoon and he kept asking questions until he asked which fuse did you remove...  I hate doing dumb *** mistakes...  Turned out that the back up camera was bad, had to remove the rear bumper cover to sort it out which is not a big deal.  Surprising the after market camera only looks about 4' out when mounted on the return above the license plate.  I mad a shim so it looks back 20' on the old camera and the new camera I'll have to do the same.  FYI, you can buy these cameras on e-bay for $12.00...

So thanks for all of your help...

I did check E-1 at your direction... I pulled each of those fuses, if they had been blown would you see it without pulling the fuse?  Is the PCM back in the dash, is it a small module/box?  What does PCM stand for, I guess the "C" 'computer'.  I had showed the car on Saturday, lst place in class, then I removed the radio head to patch another camera, it worked. So now I'm down to wiring or camera.  Pushed the radio back in, now it's Sunday, I'

Puled the head unit and all seems well...  I'll do a better job of tie wrapping some of the cables, but no smoking gun.  Checked the fuses and  all good there.  Just for conversation sake, if you had a blown C4 fuse with that prevent the starter from engaging?

The airbag fault showed  up again and  I canceled it again.  I think as Ahsai suggest is to jump the clutch safety feature 

Thanks, I'll look at that today and report back. I'm glad you're on the job...  Oh, one other thing, I wonder what set off my

air bag fault?  Whatever the problem is all of this must lead to one issue.

Mitch

Battery is good, I had an airbag fault which I erased, still nothing.  The started is not engaging.  I show this fault under instrument cluster:  I had the radio/GPS head unit out chasing 

a problem with the back up camera.  There's a ton of wires behind the head unit that gets pushed as you re-insert the head unit.

What is the PCM module?  Is there something behind the radio head unit that would shut down the starter?  I guess for starters I'll pull the radio back out.  That's the only thing

that might be part of this problem.

Thanks, any suggestions will be appreciated...

Steve,

I installed a short shift kit in my 2003 996 and at the same time changed out the shift knob for a Rennline aluminum billet knob.  I can't remember who's short shift kit I used, but

the shift pattern was a much better pattern.  The factory shift was mostly plastic, the aftermarket shift was billet aluminum.  I did have to sew up a new vinyl boot...

I installed a new clutch package, albeit a custom package to fit my LS3 engine, however, the entire clutch system is the same.  Like Joe said there is no adjustment.  In my case, I went from a low engagement position to a high one and everything was the same less 25,000 miles.  I didn't replace the clutch due to wear, but because a piece of metal got trapped between the pressure plate and the clutch disc.  Not sure you realize the pressure plate only moves about .040".

Anyway, I had a terrible time getting use to the new location of engagement and it was either in or out, now it is broken in and I'm becoming use to the new engagement point life is good.  Remember a high clutch position is better than a low one.  When you have a low engagement means a clutch job is probably in your future... 

I had a similar problem, but with the right-hand directional light. I thought I've got this licked, just replace the bulb and I'm good to go.  Nah...  Finally replaced the plastic mounting

plate.  Pretty pricey for a piece of plastic.  Seating that assembly for me is trial and error, then it happens, it seats...

I've read all the how to's...  In fact while on the Pelican web site tutorial on installing the light assembly they had the rotation of the 5mm socket the wrong way. I've taken a magic marker and labeled the on/off rotation on the inner steel panel.

Thanks, Buford...  Best handle yet.?