creekman

Well, I wasn't aware that there was an emergency cable for the gas fill door.  Speaking of emergency cables, I took my trunk cable and routed through the inner aluminum bumper and attached it to the plug cover the towing eye.  I know where it is and easy to get to.

If I have your question correct there is no cable.  When you lock your car there is a pin that is engaged by a solenoid to lock the gas filler door.

In thinking about this I would take your key fob over to the filler door and push down on the door while unlocking the doors.  Also, see if you hear any noise

coming from the gas fill lid area.  The pin is in front of the filler opening.

Also, check your fuses...  Will your key fob lock and unlock your doors?  I looked on the fuse layout and didn't see any fuse specific to doors and fuel door.  If you need to check your fuses then I would try the "alarm" fuses, B8 Alarm Control Module and E1.  The fuses go from top to bottom, 'A' row on top, then 1-10 left to right.  The fuse panel is located on the driver's side kick panel in the footwell.

I hope you're able to figure this out...

Reference 2003 C4S; It can take up to 5 minutes before the clutch engages and the system blows cold air.  I stopped for lunch, came back out started the car and the system immediately blew cold air.  We installed a new clutch, It's adjusted to be very close to the pulley, there's electrical power to the compressor and the cutch,  the system has a full charge of Freon.

Any ideas why this is occurring...  thanks

I bought my Short Shifter throughPelican Parts and I believe it was a Porsche product,  It didn't shift any faster, but was crisp through the gates.  A good upgrade...

I have a '03' C4S and the posted Tech Tip didn't work for me.  I think there is a difference here between the Boxster style

airbox and my 996 C4S.  In my case, the dash will have to come out to split the airbox to remove the door in question.

My humble advice is to start the 'Tech Tip' from inside the car to remove the door.  I got everything done on top, all looked good

until I tried to follow through with the directions to remove the bottom pivot.  It ain't coming apart...

Our local Porsche dealer wanted $1,100 to do the job...

Here's a fix, plus now you can control the trunk light.  For the most part you really hardly ever need the light so this lighted rocker switch works just fine.

I guess you really don't need A/C, but if you lived in Texas you do or melt...  I've had the insulation problem for some time and now I guess there's no more left.  My A/C is slow to get going, once it does it does a good job.  If I put it on the recirculating mode the A/C cools down quickly.  I'm not sure if this is part of the vent door problem or another issue?

If I remember correctly when I had to replace a damaged door lock I had to give the Porsche dealer my VIN and the lock to my car came from Germany.  Maybe the same for a key?  Ya, your ACE key man isn't going to get it done for you...

Wizard, nicely said... 

Air pressure for the tires is as important as oil and water to the engine...

Steve,

Why not run the compressor take a long screwdriver and put the pointy end on the compressor and the big end in your ear and see what you hear...

Steve,

Probably won't fix the problem, but it's worth the shot...

Keep us posted.

Steve,  why not recharge the A/C, then determine if the fan is still whining?  Take one thing at a time...

The problem I had was there was no way to remove the door without removing the evaporator housing.  The original tech tip was performed on a Boxster, my 2003 C4S evaporator door would not come out of the lower pivot housing.  

I would suggest anyone that wants to try this, first be sure that the bottom pivot will come out, then attack the topside parts for removal.  

I've had the same problem for some time and when my A/C cold air took a long time to come online I decided to follow the tech tutorial...

Warning: my door would come out per the tutorial...  My Vent door is captured by the 2 halves of the evaporator box.  Maybe because the tech tip was based on a Boxster, or my 996 C4S is different it was a bust.

My suggestion is to start under the dash and see if the door is hinged with the removable bushing before tearing into the upper trunk area first

Turned out that I had a very small weep in the pressure side line under the car.  The A/C is now working fine even though I removed a lot of the foam during my try at removing the door. 

I have heard that...  in fact, I heard that it can damage the evac equipment, etc.  However, this product specifically says it doesn't do that.  I know where the weep is, but it means evacuating the system replacing a 4' hose and recharging.

I guess what sums it up on one of the websites with a review if this product was so good, why doesn't DuPont make and sell it.  I'll probably tear into it...  

Thanks,

Mitch

I have a A/C fitting leak on the high side line.  It's only a weep, not a dripping leak.  I've seen/read where there are stop leak additives

for this kind of leak.  In particular, a product called "Red Angel" by Blue Devil products.  Does this product work, or is it snake oil...

Thanks,

Mitch

So is the squeak when the engine is not running?  Could be a bent or broken throw out arm?  Sounds like you're on the right track, take one thing at a time.  I hope it's an external problem, and not open heart surgery.  

Remember if you get the car up on jack stands put some blocks or wheels under the car for safety so you don't get squash if it falls off the stands.  It does happen...

Billy,  How many miles on your car or clutch in the event it has been replaced.  I think, or been told that 60,000 miles is a typical service life of the clutch.  So the bottom line is you can get into any gear now, but when you depress the pedal to the floor you get creep as the clutch does not fully disengage?

I'm guessing, and I'm no expert, but the cable/rod end got cocked some way and that was your shifting problem, not the clutch.  You didn't tell us when you had the low and reverse problem whether you were able to shift into the other gears ok?  If so then that would make it the rod end at the transmission, if not then maybe your clutch theory holds up.

Either way, I'm glad it worked out, however it's always nice to know why...

There are 2 cables with rod ends that connect to the transmission on the right side, I believe in your case the low and reverse work off the same cable so that's why you were having trouble.  You'll have to get under the car and remove the belly pans.  It's probably an easy fix if you can get your car up in the air.

What about disconnecting the battery and see if that resets the computer.  However, from your post it sounds more mechanical...  but disconnecting the battery can't hurt...

What a mess, and a helpless feeling.  I guess it can't hurt to disconnect the battery, you can't be any worst off.  Do you know where the cable release is, it's not easy to get to.  I re-routed mine to the back of the bumper tow hook plug.

Have you tried all the keys you have to be sure you've exhausted that avenue?  The other thing that you might try is calling the Police Department and see if one of their people would come out and break into your car.  At least here in our small town, they will do that.  If they will do that be sure you tell them what kind of a car you have since some cars cannot be jimmied.  

I would say yes, I guess it's a normally closed relay for so many amps which can be duplicated easily enough.  However, the Porsche relay might have specific mounting tabs that the generic relay will not have.  Most of the above information will be found on the replay.

Maybe it's a bad "O" ring.  I had a problem with a leaky "O" ring, it was fine as long as the car was driving, but when you stopped the pressure in the system built up and leaked out.  Any chance your header tank is over filled, you don't want your coolant over the "max" mark on the header tank.

Then you have the 3rd radiator for the TIP radiator cooling?

Thanks for the reply...  I thought your fix was brilliant, but I've spent several hours trying to remove the plugs, sleeves, or bushings.  I had a car buddy come by yesterday and he spent time on his back under the dash with the same out come.  I wanted to be sure that I hadn't missed anything.  After all, if I can install a V8 in my Porsche I should be able to remove any plugs, etc.  LOL  The only way to get the mixing doors out is to split the heater/evap box.

I have the Durametric program. Yes... the door is made of thin metal, probably aluminum.  I agree the 986 and the 966 is the same forward of the firewall.  I guess it is what it is.  What I might suggest is to go back and modify your tutorial and suggest that the first thing you do is to go under the dash and drop the actuator arm and be sure there's a plug and it comes out.  Then go topside and remove the cowling, etc.

I started an update but stopped when I ran into the plug situation.  Here are my pix and comments so far.  I could take pixs of the open hole showing what I can of the flap door.