WARDHOG

I just had major engine failure on the 21st of Dec, 2012. I have the car at an independent auto shop but they haven't even looked at it except bump the the starter (with key) to verify the sound I described to them and declared I need a new engine. ($20K). I'm going to have it towed to the dealer and see what they say. I was going to have the IMS bearing changed out on the 3rd of Jan, 2013 but my engine failed before that. I have 67434 miles on the car and it's a 2003 C4S. I think Porsche should pick up the tab for the repairs because they are aware of the IMS bearing issue and did nothing to rectify the situation via recall or such. Any ideas or suggestions would really be appreciated.

Have a 2003 996 C4S and my cruise control stopped working recently. At first, it wouldn't hold but light would illuminate then now light will not illuminate and and still not hold. Fuse checked good but I need to know how many relays are involved and where are they located on the relay board and else where. Any other suggestion would also be helpful too.

TIA!

Has anyone noticed some anti-freeze residue around the blue cap? Porsche tells me it is normal for a little bit of the anti-freeze to seep out when it is real hot, he pointed out that the little drain going back into the tank is there to catch it.

Any comments on this?

You need to change the reservoir tank cap every two years because it starts to break down and not work right. It cost around $20 and change it yourself when the engine is cold.

Porsche beats Lexus in initial quality, Ford shines for 2nd year straight

Posted: June 4th, 200

http://www.egmcartech.com/2008/06/04/porsc...-year-straight/

J.D. Power and Associates released its 2008 Initial Quality Study results today which showed that overall vehicle quality improved to 118 problems per 100 vehicles in 2008, down from 125 in 2007. FoMoCo was a shining star for the second consecutive year with Mercury being the highest-rated domestic brand, beating Honda coming in behind Mercedes-Benz and Toyota.

Porsche held on to its number 1 spot followed by Infiniti and Lexus (who is supposed to be known as the quality king). Toyota tied with Mercedes-Benz at number 4.

The Porsche 911 has the fewest quality problems in the industry, with just 67 problems per 100 vehicles. Also receiving segment awards are the Ford E-Series, Lincoln Navigator, Mazda MX-5 Miata, Pontiac Grand Prix Sedan and Toyota Sequoia.

For a third consecutive year, Porsche tops the overall nameplate rankings, averaging 87 PP100. Following in the rankings are Infiniti (which improves from 9th rank position in 2007), Lexus, Mercedes-Benz and Toyota, respectively. Audi posts the largest improvement in ranking, moving from 26th place in 2007 to 10th in 2008.

The Initial Quality Study serves as the industry benchmark for new-vehicle quality measured at 90 days of ownership. The study is used extensively by vehicle manufacturers worldwide to help them design and build better vehicles and by consumers to help them in their vehicle purchase decisions. Initial quality has been shown over the years to be an excellent predictor of long-term durability, which can significantly impact consumer purchase decisions. The study captures problems experienced by owners in two distinct categories—quality of design and defects and malfunctions.

Too bad the 996 didn't come close to that with RMS leaks and clutch problems <_<

Hi guys,

I wanted to let you know that there are many 03-04 Porsche owners running into big problems with getting nav updates. At this point, there is no nav update because Navteq doesn't provide and update due to Porsche not selecting or providing the software above version 3.0. I am an attorney and am currently pursing some legal resolution for this. If anyone is interested in getting their name on the list, shoot me an email at esquire@ptd.net - include name, location, contact info (preferably a phone # and email), model, year, and when purchased.

thanks,

Matt

Hi,

Even though I don't have PCM in my car I, went to the site directly and they have updates and like you said this map set requires PCM2 Version 3.0 system software available through your local dealer. I thought Porsche has done this or am I missing something. Have you contacted PCNA about this? I'm just curious because I"m somewhat into GPS systems for a side hobby.

Navteq

Hi,

I have had a LED 3rd brake light on my car for six months and it has been working great, but now I also replaced my pop-up wing with one too. The pop-up one does not work with the LED light. I know that the LED lights have less wattage and that might cause the problem, but is there any way I can fix it?

Thanks

Kristian

Are you sure you have the polarity correct?

He probably has the one like I did and it works great on the car but will not work on the spoiler. The connector can not be taken apart to switch wires to switch them around.

Hi all,

For which option were the two button blanks located just behind the ashtray in 996TT MY2002 meant for?

Luis

:rolleyes:

No actually, they are there because switches would be in place for rear side windows if the car was a Cab.

Was looking at the newest Porsche TSB 12/2007 #1701, and I'm pretty sure I'm not seeing Mobil1 or Exxon products on this list. I'm I looking at the wrong TSB or is this true? That's all I've ever used in my Porsche and don't feel like swapping over to another brand of oil. Can someone educate me on this?

TIA! :eek:

My left side exhaust is rattling again and this will be the fourth time I have had the exhaust system addressed with my dealer. I had my dealer install the PSE when I bought my car brand new from them and was wondering if the PSE may be the culprit here. The first time the dealer replaced the RH Cat Conv at 15156 miles. The second time the LH Exhaust Pipe was replace at 25924 miles and the last time the LH Exhaust pipe was replaced at 41619 miles and it now has 44573 miles on the odometer. I would also like reasons and suggestions that might cure this recurring problem that I may suggest to my dealer because I'm pretty sure they are just fixing the broken part and not looking for why it caused the part to be broken in the first place. Can anyone help because I need the problem fixed. :o

TIA!

I have been having intermittent issues with my car stalling and I thought it was a bad MAF. Cleaned out the unit, as well as the connector and everything was fine for a while. Then the stalling became more frequent. Took it to the dealer and the diagnosis (post repair of the water pump) was a bad MAF. I was about to order a new one, when I realized that the connector to the MAF was not connected at all! :o Now I don't know if when they ran the PS2 test on the car the connector was plugged into the MAF or not. I also do not know what the effect of driving my car this way is (both at part throttle and WOT). Anyone know if I have done serious damage by running the car hard and the mixture not being right (too lean? too rich?). :huh:

I wouldn't worry about any damage to the car because IIRC, the car defaults to a rich mixture if the MAF is out. How does it run now after you plugged the connector back on? If it runs a little rough, drive it for a few miles to allow the DME/ECU to re-map itself to compensate for having a MAF back in the system loop.

Definitely say something... anything with the brakes is worth fussing about.

Hopefully they would rush you out the one rotor, then you can send the damaged one back.

Send it back for exchange and let them know about the packaging. Same thing happened to me and they exchanged the damaged rotor and paid for s/h too. The damaged area will probably cause a hot spot and vibration issues and what ever you do, don't take it to NAPA to have it turned.

This has been happening over and over in the last few months and is now becoming a PITA. It really acts up after using reverse and then trying to select 1st and all I get is a dead spot. So, I put it in second and start off in 2nd and still don't have 3rd to slip into but forth and 6th is good but also no 5th. Now, when downshifting, still no 3rd and 5th but when I rev match the engine to go into 2nd, I feel the gear lever notching in further and feels more solid and normal. After that, everything is fine until a few days or so and the same thing happens all over again. I'm not hearing any grinding and sometimes in a great while I will accidently grind it trying to get into 2nd to start off.

This really started after getting my RMS changed out and I had them put a new clutch disk in for good measure since it was tore apart for the RMS. I've had a SSK in my car since the first week of ownership and the only owner of the car with around 42K and four years of ownership. Does this mean serious tranny problems or just a quick adjustment or something. I have an extended warranty I rather not really put to use if I don't have to.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

TIA! :o

P.S. I took my car apart to check out the SSK and everything seems normal since the day I installed it myself, four years ago.

Can anyone tell me why the rotors on my 2002 996 C2 with 16k miles on it are cracking / checking? I have hairline cracks spreading out from the drilled holes in the rotors. An indy told me when the cracks "join up" or run out to the edge of the rotor, it's time to replace them. I've looked at a lot of friends' Porsches and no one else's is doing this, several with 2 to 3 times the mileage. Can anyone shed some light on why this would be happening with so few miles?

Thanks much!

HEAT IS YOUR BRAKES AND ROTORS ENEMY along with a heavy foot. :(

I don't mean to change the subject, but what kind of calculations can you do to select a tire?

(I'm not arguing, I simply have never heard of any formulas or numeric approaches to tire selection.)

He showed me a formula that deals with the contact patch, weight, g-forces and the compositions of the material or something like that. He told me that the tires were designed with the Porsches negative camber in mind.

What tire would you recommend, knowing that I enjoy the occasional track outing (6x year), I have to drive in occasional FL downpours but it's never cold, and I hate, loathe, despise my current Pirellis...

The car is a 2003 on 18" (225 and 285) The P-zeros on the car are noisy, bouncy, take flat spots after sitting 1 day, I hate them with every fiber of my being like I've never hated tires before ;-) I know it's the tires because I had a boxster on 18s" before and it was nowhere near that bad !

With that in mind... I've had the Michelin PS2 on my previous car, they were OK in terms of wear but I found they went away quite fast on the track in terms of grip. I'm looking at :

-Bridgestone Re050A ($986 + shipping at tire rack), the S03 replacement I guess?

-Conti sport contact 2 ($870 + shipping) : my cousin works for continental, he says those are much better now, but I had a set of V1.0 and they sucked so I am not sure I trust V2.0

-Michelin PS rib $1120 + shipping...

****, where are the Kuhmos in my car's size ? nowhere, it seems, unfortunately !

Any other recommendation? I don't mind if they wear fast, I just want dry and wet grip, less noise, less harshness... Opinions ? I know it's subjective but it's not like you can try them for "feel" ;-)

I currently have the Bridgestone Re050A on my C4S and are the best I have ever put on my Porsche. A friend who is a tire service tech for GY did some calculating and promised these are the best for my car and driving. He was right and these are the best I've had. Second was Yokohama AVS Sports and the absolute worse tire is Kumho I only had on for about 2k miles. I hated the Perilliies because of wear and noise issues but handled alright. What ever you do, don't go the Kumho route because it will cost you again and you will hate them and feel unsafe riding with them.

2006 Carrera S Coupe 6 speed.I have an intermittent problem.When heel/toe downshifting I am able to depress the throttle with no response.This occurs 1 in 10 downshifts and can happen between any gears,even after or before 3 perfect downshifts.There is no problem upshifting, or when downshifting without braking.I love the car but this takes away some of the enjoyment.

Sorry to say but, that's an enjoyment that has been taken away by advanced technology. Porsche's E-gas prevents that option and I too find that a little hindering. If you hit the brakes while on the throttle, it shuts the throttle down to idle until you let off the brakes. You can always rev match the engine when downshifting. :rolleyes:

I have a 98 Boxster with a 2.5L engine and I'm in the process of replacing the RMS and the other suspect leakers like the crankcase and intermediate shaft bolts. I'm also replacing the AOS as it has decided to spray a significant amount of rust preservative on the passenger side of the engine. I will also likely replace the clutch and would like to know the original specification on the thickness and the wear limit. I plan to see if I can come up with a way to monitor clutch wear when everything is reassembled.

Does anyone know what the thickness specifications are for a new clutch disc as well as the disc wear limit for a 2.5L engine?

I would and have replaced the clutch disk when the RMS have been changed. $250 now or $1500 later.

I can't prove it was their fault but I've videoed them doing crappy maintenance on my car but, that's another story.

how did you videotape the dealer? i always wanted to put a small camera in my car to see what dealer does to it. which dealer do you go to anyways?

I just walked upp with my video phone and started shooting the tech using an air impact wrench to bolt on my wheels. I had a rotor warp issue before and the S/M swore and down they only hand tightened the wheel bolts then torque to specs. I proved him wrong and they replaced the rotors and threw in free brake pads after I showed him my video. I was there at the right time.

Yesterday I was driving to work and I started hearing a very alarming noise and felt my car wobbling. I stopped immediately and got out to check for a flat tire. All was good and even checked my tire pressure. I got back and drove about another two hundred yards to my parking spot and was not amused with the situation. When I parked my car, I then started to inspect my car and after looking at my left rear wheel, I noticed two lug bolts are missing. One was the anti -theft bolt too. So, I grabbed the tire change kit out of the car and jack the left rear yo make sure it would seat against the rotor and then tightened the other three down on the wheel and found them they all where very loose. I then went around the whole car and checked all the bolts and the fronts were tight and the right rear ones were very loose too. I took one of the lug bolts bolts off the right rear and put it on the left rear to secure the left better than what it is. Drove it home after work and ordered two new bolts and I'm waiting for delivery. This same thing happened a few months a go on the left front but no bolts came off. The last person to touch my wheels have been the dealer and I just car my 45K inspection done last month. I can't prove it was their fault but I've videoed them doing crappy maintenance on my car but, that's another story.

Now question is, is there a problem with these style of lug nuts and is there another way to prevent the loosening of them? I have the stock wheels with no spacers. A lot of people who know cars suggest Locktite and I don't thing that would be a good idea. I was thinking anti seize tape but I'm not too sure about that either. Any thoughts on this will definitely be welcomed.

TIA!

:help:

When I was working on the car today cleaning the throttle body,

I noticed some worn parts and I have some questions that hopefully some of you have the answers to.

1. What is that foam piece in the air filter box? Is that piece replaceable, and what is it called?

I pushed my finger in it and Oops! It felt like it was already disintegrating, left an indentation.

I'm thinking it's some kinda moisture-absorbing foam?

2. I noticed this hose here that is all cracked-up, looks like it will crumble soon and will affect something.

What part is this, and what does it do? It sure looks like a pain to replace though, from what I can see.

It runs all the way behind the engine...and I am wondering how to replace that piece of hose without removing a bunch of stuff!?

I am thinking if it is indeed a pain to replace, and if it is not under any pressure,

is it all right to just temporarily reinforce it with some electrical tape or duct tape, around the part of the hose that's breaking down?

Thanks in Advance!

The foam in your intake box is used for sound dampening and can replaced with regular air conditioning air filter foam or not at all.

The hose can be repaired yourself by cutting off below the end of the cracks and then worked back on with some soapy water and then zip tied for security.

Try plain white Colgate toothpaste. Just rub it on and wipe it off. Works great and is cheap. :thumbup:

Anybody know a quick hack so I can use my fogs for DRL's? If I can, I might convert them to zenon.

That's answer I would like to know too.

:unsure:

Hello,

we measured the gases on the coolant tank and these indicated a blown head gasket. Symptoms are that the car overheats after 20 minutes in hot weather. No leak anywhere.

So the question is do we change one or both head gskets ? Anyone done that before ?

Any tips ?

Do you have any water in your oil? What about the water pump going out after a few minutes? I'm sure it's not a head gasket and I would get a second look at it by someone else. Got any more details besides what you have given?

My neighbor who drives corvettes strolled into my garage last night with a puzzled look on his face. He said I finally got around to checking under my hood and I can't figure out what this one thing is he told me. What are you talking about I asked and he told me the round thing with "710" on the top. I told him I didn’t have the slightest idea what it would be and he told me he had seen it on many other cars but never knew what it was for. He told me it came out easy and to hold on and he would go get it. He returned and this is what he had:

http://www.hotautoweb.com/cogifs/710.jpg

Luckily I found and tossed the one on my car a loooong time ago. It has saved me a lot of weight and less weight means more horse power. Now, if I could only keep my engine clean because Porsche really got carried away at the factory with the cosmoline. I also noticed my engine likes to tap in rhyme with the stereo, just weird. :D

For those who post on PPBB.

The family of "Porsche Pete" announced his passing today.

Sorry to hear about this and is a sad day for his family and PPBB followers :(