wrinkledpants

Here is the picture image to go with my part numbers I've listed above.  From what I've heard - you can reach all of these from the lower side if you don't mind working in confined spaces with some scratched up hands.  

You can download the Porsche PET catalog for the 955 from Porsche themselves, FYI.  

This would be the first Cayenne pump I've heard of failing.  Have you tried to see if the headlight pumps, or rear washer work - just to make sure it's not a switch issue?  What year is the Cayenne?

You can't.  Need the whole housing.  Just find one on eBay if you don't want to buy new.  

If you have this code, you have a boost leak somewhere that needs to be fixed.  Sometimes, tracking these down can be tricky.  You can check your charge hoses (after the IC), the diverter valves, N75, and plenum - but if that doesn't reveal anything obvious, you'll need to take it to the dealer to have them pressure test it.  

Did you need any special tools, or are standard hand tools fine?  I thought I remember seeing a write up, and it looked fairly intense, even for someone that does the majority of their own work on the car.  

hmm, well the car didn't come with one.

I have downloaded a copy but didn't see it in there.

Use a flat-blade screwdriver and insert it where the notch is on the edge.  Pry it out.  Don't use your key.  There is a flat blade screwdriver in the tool-box in the trunk.  

I'd see if you can swap one of the light assemblies from the opposite side in to see if it works.  If not, then I'd guess you have a wiring issue somewhere.  No clue where you would begin looking for that.

You need to be willing to pay some money to troubleshoot.  There is nothing we can do if you're not able to get somewhere to have an actual diagnostics done.  And, I can't think of anything you could do since you need an AC hose setup to test for leaks, a Durametric to test the servos.

It would be unusual to have all your servo motors fail to the point that the back of the car blows warm air out of all the vents.  Without a Durametric or a trip to the dealer - there will be no way to know for sure.

It could be an AC system charge issue, but it usually impacts both front and back.  I'm not aware of any switch or servo in the AC refrigerant lines between the front and the back, as I believe it's an open system.  So, that leaves something wrong with your evaporator in the back, or some type of check valve.  But, again - that's going to be above and beyond the skill of any Midas tech, or what a Durametric could troubleshoot.  

I'd start with taking a mirror and following the valve cover gaskets all the way around.  That's the more common area for oil leaks that drip down the side of the motor.  And, on an 2003 car - you're likely going to need to replace those from age if you have low miles on the car. 

Dynavin is a popular choice as it's designed to be an OEM-like replacement.  However, it's 800 bucks.  AvinUSA is also working on a unit that should be out this year at some point.  Same setup - designed for OEM integration, and priced similar to the Dynavin unit.

I'm holding out for the Avin unit, my self.  

I've read about others having a similar issue, and they crack the air hose on the strut to manually lower the car down to a reasonable position.  

Greetings!

I recently picked up a beautiful 2004 CS with 158k miles on the clock. I've read all the horror stories about the engine scoring and I'd just like to ask if I'm out of the weeds. The car has been kept in a warm climate, Charlotte NC, I don't here any knocking or obvious ticking, dealer maintained although I don't have service records. No smoke, not burning oil. So, after 158k miles, if she was gonna go, it probably would have happened already?

I'm grinning ear to ear with this thing and it's the only dark spot in my enthusiasm.

Thanks!

Joe

You're never out of the clear.  It's not a defect that only revealed itself early in the mileage range.  It seems most of the scored cars come from cold climates where they see cold starts routinely.  So, if the car has always been a southern car, I think that helps.  

Good habits can help mitigate the problem, too.  Don't let the car idle after starting.  Get in, start it, drive off slowly.  If you let it idle and warm up, the engine is spending a lot of time in its highest wear state.  Don't go WOT until the oil temp is warmed up.  Try to drive it as gingerly as possible until the engine temp and oil temp are up to speed.  

If the car has made it this far, that's a good sign.  But, you're never really "out of the weeds."

Sometimes codes are symptoms or a problem, and sometimes codes are the problem.  If you get a misfire, that's a symptom of something not being right.  Could be bad coils, plugs, an injector, etc.  If you have an open/short to ground code on a camshaft, that's saying the camshaft sensor is bad.

Sounds like the camshaft sensor is bad, and you have sometime of evap leak in the fuel system.  My guess is the camshaft is what's causing the engine problems.  I'd focus on that first.  

Thanks for the writeup, I may just check mine out too as mine only gets a small amount of air in the footwells. Possibly the servo motor is only opening the vent a slight amount.

Have you checked whether you can do the output tests with Vagcom?  That should tell you if the flaps can move their full range.

Do a search on which fuses to pull to test the fuel pumps.  Crank position sensor would be my next guess.  It might not throw a code until things start to get really bad, though.  

Hello,

 

I am new to the forum and had a few questions about a 2004 Cayenne Turbo that I am looking at.  Unfortunately it is halfway accross the country so I cannot view it in person.

 

I am aware of the mechanical issues that can pop up, where I need some help is with the options, things I couldn't solve with the photos I was provided.

 

On this model, will this vehicle likely have:

 

1.  Tire Pressure Monitoring System (was this an option or standard on 2004 Turbos?)

Option

 

2.  Sunroof/Moonroof (the one question I forgot to ask).  I thought they were standard on USA Turbos, am I right?

As far as I know

 

3.  How many power outlets are in the SUV and where are they located?  (I know there should be 1 in the front, I think 1 in the 2nd row and 2 in the trunk?) Am I missing some?

1 in ash tray, 2 under the glove box, 1 in back seat, 2 in the trunk)

 

4.  Is the battery located in the engine bay?

battery is under the driver seat.  Option for a second battery in the trunk where the spare tire is

 

5.  I see on the drivers side door there is a trunk release next to the fuel door release. Does that "lift" the trunk or just "unlock" it.  

Just unlocks it

 

6.  I don't think I have ever seen a 2004 with a "auto liftgate" close button, am I correct?

Not available on the 955 Cayennes (2003-2006)

 

My last question is more of a technical question.

 

7.  I am interested in removing the stereo and installing an aftermarket stereo (Pioneer Appradio 4 for more modern options (bluetooth, review camera, etc.) does the stereo just bascially do navigation and music or will any other information systems be lost?   I know Turbos have the screen on the tach area but wasn't sure if the two worked with each other or seperate.

Unless you find a stereo that specifically plugs into the Cayennes MOST fiber optic network, you will lose the info on the dash (song, station, etc), lose the radio buttons on steering wheel, and the temp and a few other things won't integrate into the stereo.  After market may also not play well with the Bose amp.  Dension is a popular after market option, and even it has troubles getting all the integration that the OEM unit had.  That's all i really know about it.  Might want to do a search to see what others have done.  Most people just get a bluetooth thing that plugs into the stereo, and use their phones for nav (streaming over the BT).  Choice is yours.

 

 

thank you

Responded in-line

When you took the water pump out, were there any fins missing?

Cooling systems aren't all that complicated.  Over heating problem - install new pump - still overheating.  I would bump a failed water pump to the bottom of the list of possible culprits at this point.  Fans kicking on to high speed tells me the radiator temp sensor is reading correctly, and not likely a faulty sensor.  If you haven't done the thermostat - that would be my number suspect at this point.  

Do you have a later year Cayenne?  I had an 06 Treg that had the plastic-type hose.  My 04 CTT has a sturdy rubber hose that's much more pliable.  You could probably go to any salvage yard that has a CTT and get one.  

Wow - according to that document, the 2-zone is the better AC setup.  It can maintain cold vent temps at a higher ambient temp, and it's high pressure values will hit the 290 PSI mark, triggering high speed fans at a low ambient temp.  

I thought the 4-zone would have been the meet locker champ, but it's the 2-zone.  

My 04 CTT's AC just hasn't ever seemed that cold.  Had it recharged today at the Porsche dealer.  They said it was down .5 lbs, but I don't feel any difference in the temps.  I took a thermometer out and measured the vent temps.

Test 1:Ambient 70 degrees, Parking garage (no sun).  HVAC (4-zone) set to Low.  Waited about 5 minutes, and the center vent temp was at 52 degrees.  All the front vent temps were about the same.  Went to my wife's 04 A4 1.8T with 150K on the clock, and the vent temp was 42, and felt more appropriate.  

Test 2: Ambient 75 degrees, interior 95 degrees.  Set to Low, and temps came down to 70 degrees in about 2 minutes.  After 7 minutes, the temps were at 60 degrees and holding steady.  

Test 3: started driving from Test 2, and through city streets, vent temps went down to about 40 degrees with the HVAC on Low.  Once I stop, the vent temps start to climb.  Rear vents are a bit warmer than the front.  

According to the porsche after sales docs, the engine fans should kick on at full speed once the PSI in the high pressure side hits 250 PSI.  I've never seen my engine fans go to high speed on the CTT.  On previous VAG cars, high speed engine fans sound like vacuum cleaners.  Mine are spinning, and only audible if I put my face near the front bumper.  

If it's hot out, and I've selected max AC with a fully recharged system, shouldn't the high pressure side PSI increase enough to kick the engine fans on to high speed?  It's possible my flap motors might be bad, but there are 4 AFAIK on this car.  And, it's hard to imagine they all failed in the same way so that the temperate at the vents is all the same.  Either that, or there is something wrong in the AC system preventing the car from generating higher pressures?  

Any other ideas?  I'd think a car with this capability and 2 AC systems would be able to make cooler air than my wife's A4.

It's the flap motors. There is an air distribution box under the dash in the center of the car; the valves are mounted on either side of this assembly. The valves were redesigned for MY2005+. From the research I did while dealing with this problem on my own car, I concluded that the earlier revision valves fail at an exorbitant rate while the revised valve appears to be very reliable. You could chase the individual fault codes and just replace the motors that are reporting problems. This will be a waste of time and money- you will eventually end up replacing all of the motors. It also will be expensive at ~$150 each (last time I checked).

 

Here's how you can fix the problem for a reasonable price: Purchase a used heater core assembly off ebay from a MY2005+. I got one out of a 2006 for $145 shipped to my door. There is a 2-zone and a 4-zone variant so make sure you get the right one. I stripped off all the motors and then just tossed the plastic housing bits in the trash. I had six separate error codes before the fix. The climate control system has been error code free for the past 1.5 years and I saved over $1k. Most importantly, the climate control system has worked perfectly during this time.

 

You can replace the motors yourself (I did) if you're mechanically inclined but the job is a bit tricky and will take half a day or so.

 

 

Brett

Did you have to pull the top of the dash, or were you able to reach everything from down below?

Tregs had the same issue.  Button was part of the problem, but so was the seatbelt assembly.  Something about a rivet, either within the belt mechanism or in the mount.  A new seatbelt with a better design cured the problem, as well as adding the button back if you are missing it.  

Very helpful. Did you use the "old" bolts and nuts when you connect everything back or is it neccessary to use new ones?

Gotta use new ones.  

Same on mine.  Records show it was a cheap connector.

Honestly, it's a base model Cayenne.  Take the money and run.  Once you get water intrusion on that level to the interior - you're destined for a life of weird issues popping up.