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DeepBlue

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Everything posted by DeepBlue

  1. The K24's are a little bigger than the K16's and take a little more time to spool, will be hard to get around physics. Since the engine is more or less an air pump, the trick is to get more air through it spinning the turbos more, Porsche has done a good job with the motor in regards to efficiency,however there are a few things you can do to open the intake and exhaust more, one of the things we did is port match the oem headers, dont waste your time or money on aftermarket, the oem ones are very good, port matching will help some. If you are using a factory exhaust, I would recommend a freer flowing exhaust such as Europipe, 911 tuning and protomotive, a little expensive but will definitely open up the airlfow and sounds fantastic. Porting the heads and some valve work will probably give you the biggest gains but also keep your car down the longest and maybe cost prohibitive pending what you want to do, all the above will do amazing things. Hope this helps.
  2. Interecoolers wont *give* you more power but will help prevent loss of power reduced timing from heat. As far as turbos, if you want less lag, the general rule is a smaller turbo, there are some exceptions such as bearing types and hybrid configurations. the simple answer in your case is definitely open up the exhaust (I*really* like the Europipe) and get a well established vendors tune, this alone will make quite a bit of difference for the buck.
  3. You can use modeling plastic and putty and form or reinforce the broken areas. Takes time and patience but definitely doable and a heck of a lot less expensive. I also use rubber washers to help prevent over torqueing Yeah, both too in my case. Do you have any link to this LED sell on 6speed?
  4. The RAM (hydraulic lift) has failed, you can check the under side of the engine cover to check for moisture (leaking hydraulic fluid), which is not good for painted surfaces. This is very common and unfortunately expensive to fix. Most people find a way to leave it down / up position or upgrade the entire engine cover and wing to the GT2 version (What I did) which is lighter and has no moving parts to fail. Several vendors offer the GT2 front and rear, *highly* recommend the urethane vesion of the front bumper if you go that direction. You might be able to get used parts but the eventuality of it or the other side failing is a probability //Anders
  5. Cant help you with the power issues, but you want the parking brakes to appear ON, this is the override that allows you to be able to do inputs and video while driving. It also appears that you do not have the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connected properly and/or the GPS antennae connected or visible to the satellites. Check the satellite reception in the GPS signal menu for singal, this should be giving speed and direction updates, the VSS supplies speed when in a tunnel or no signal. Hope this helps. //Anders
  6. I have a couple questions.. does your battery drain while the car alarm is armed or not? Porsches will drain battery, albeit over time, when the alarm is not armed, the way it was explained to me is that the DME was still processing. the 2nd question is if there is any aftermarket electronics installed? new stereo, amp, radar detector etc. First areas I would check are the battery cables that attach to the terminals, make sure they arent worn and shorted on anything, Id sya trunk and engine light but that wouldnt drain the battery that quickly.
  7. I had the same issue and reused mine on my '01turbo but also checked periodically just in case (Do NOT over-tighten, or life will bedcome messy and complicated;-). After that time I order them 2-3 at a time so I always have them, I also get the copper/bronze crush gaskets for the turbo sumps as well, those are holy hell to find locally if in a pinch. HTH //Anders
  8. Great pics and welcome to the UMW family! Kevin is a victim of his own success, I have to check out that Radical!
  9. I had the same issue, I had some maintenance done at the same time, replaced the sending unit, problem persisted, ended up being the wiring not too far from the sender.
  10. I expected monkey crap brown or avocado green, your choice in color is fine. I am curious about the RMS though, I know the non GT1 cars had an RMS issue, but its news to me on a turbo. The new shocks and tires is completely up to you, probably upgrade eventually anyway. Depending on the spoiler faults, the RAMs (hydraulic lifts) are known to fail, this can be very expensive and most either leave it full up or down and pull the fuse or get a fixed wing. The boots are normal wear, half the rear lights I have seen have the area where it bolts to the car either cracked or broken and not sure about the stalk not holding. If you were rally concerned about the RMS get another PPI, that seems suspicious to me but 27k seems like a fair price. C. Anders
  11. Yep, alternator. Mine happened all of a sudden, low voltage but had a battery/generator cel. Made horrendous noise when reving motor, good news is you can get a bosch remanufactured for a fraction of the price of new with near same reliability. Cant really complain, mine lasted 10 years.
  12. Outside of a minute chance of FOD (Foreign Object Damage) getting into the intake tract, I wouldn't think there would be any harm in driving with boost after re-installing the boost hose outside of it happening again, most people just upgrade to silicon hoses. Btw, there was a TSB and design change to the boost hoses back in 01, 02 and maybe 03, I dont know the specifics but it would be due diligence to do a search on the forums, could very well address your situation.
  13. It is not broken to fix and is by design, one of the advantages is to use the trickle battery charger. Hard wiring the detector into the fuse panel will resolve this. Not much help, but this is how it is.
  14. Congrats, not bad numbers. Its hard to imagine how anyone can keep these cars stock with the perfomance possible in these motors.
  15. My 996TT had a massive leak once, open the front hood/trunk, 4x10mm bolts on top of the plastic piece (there is a 10mm in the tool kit), remove the plastic cover and there is the access to the fuel hoses and access to the fuel pump. Mine had a hose that popped off, reattached and made sure it was secure, havent had a problem since. This might appear to be coming down th shroud, I'd check the hoses and cap first.
  16. Check the coolant hose directly behind and below the intake on the driver side of the engine. I just had a coolant hose that kept popping out of the spring tension holder. Its a 30min job at most, remove the airbox and you will clearly see it under the intake hose. 1 spring clip on each side of the hose hold it in. YOu might have to get new spring clips if they have lsot their tension as well. Im not sure about the right side, perhaps the water is from one side and flow to the right, removal of the airbox should give you a good view. Hope this helps.
  17. I wont be much help with your problem, nor have I heard of anyeone having anything close to your issue, but your tool kit should have the 10mm spanner in it. Aslo, you might want to remove the spare tire and all associated tools, air pump etc and see of the sound is coming from the top or bottom of the tank. I have a suspicion it might be something rolling around under your spare, there isnt much that moves around inside the tank. Definitely follow up, would be interested in what you find.
  18. My comments inline..... My '02 70k mi tt-6spd with X50 (X51?) turned out to be an X0. Loren's information from PAG indicated 420hp rather than the 450hp from the VIN decoder available here and the X51 option wasn't on the list. The PO has offered me a modest refund but refuses to believe its not what he thought it was. This really stinks, was it presented as an X50 by the seller?? The thing is, 420hp seemed to make the car scary fast. But after a month of driving I've concluded that, on hard acceleration, the rear end squats and the front end gets light and the car gets squirrely like the thrust is making the car go sideways. Is this a reasonable assessment? Rear squatting could be either a soft suspension or the rear bushings...mine squatted as well, but I also have 200-300hp more than stock. in addition to suspension I swapped out the dog bones and the bushings, helps with tire wear as well. If a suspension upgrade is in the cards I will want something that works well (i.e. somewhat comfortable and controllable) on the the bumpy back roads and an occasional DE since this is a daily driver. I'm leaning toward the PSS10s because I've been buying Bilsteins since 1977 and have had good luck with them. But the PSS9s I put on a 993 C2 were a bit on the harsh side and the rear height adjustment required taking half the suspension apart to be able to turn the piece that the sway bar end link mounted to. Unless I was doing it wrong. It looks like the 996 version is the same design. That piece ought to be a sleeve that is sandwiched between two nuts. Are the PSS10s worth $600 more than the H&R coilovers and how do they compare for primarily street use? Or is there a better choice in the same $ range? If this solves the squat problem with 420hp, will it still work at 550? Nothing wrong with PSS's however, I prefer the Porsche X73, it lowers the car, extremely well balanced and is not too harsh or too soft, if you want something adjustable, PSS is probably the way to go for the money, whatever option you so should be good to at least 600hp. I am trying to get good quality replacement components cheap, like exhaust, bigger intercoolers, headers, mostly things that will work with the k16 system I have now and with future upgrades. Does anyone know if the 997 intercoolers are comparable in capacity to the 996 X50/GT2 intercoolers and reasonably easy to install. I know they are cheap and available. It seems that I've read somewhere that the 997 intercoolers have been adopted from the 911 Turbo (996) and optimized. In order to improve charge-air cooling, the ducts in the rear side sections of the body have been modified. By increasing the cross-section of each duct by approx. 10 % it has been possible to reduce flow resistance and to improve the air flow into the radiator cores. This results in more efficient intercooling for increased power and torque. I'll save you some money so you can buy a good exhaust, just like wross said, dont worry about the k16 headers, they are very decent as is, later on get them port matched and dont worry about IC's until you get up to the 600hp level and evoms or umw both make very good sets. I would highly recommend a good exhaust, I have had a fabspeed and my current EuroPipe, the EP is by far the best exhaust I have heard, just a little pricey. So, they are the same size as which 996 intercooler? but with better heat removal due to improved convection? Does being adopted from the 996tt mean the plain tt or the GT2? And, if they are the larger ones (which is very likely considering the output of the 997) how difficult would they be to install on a 996? Is there anyone with that experience? Yea, I know, I really want intercoolers with metal ends. No answer, no idea, I would guess normal turbo. The seals on the output flanges of my front diff are leaking slightly. It took about 4 or 5 ounces of lube to fill it back up - I wasn't going to change out the fluid until I pull the flanges and replace seals when I do the front suspension. Is this a common problem? This is a job I am not looking forward to doing, but if I have to, I will do it and take pictures. What is the deal with these brakes (red, monoblock)? Stopping power has always been one of Porsche's fortes (forti?) but these leave a lot to be desired. The rotors are down to the limit and I need new pads - I'm sure that replacing rotors and pads will improve things but are these calipers up to the task? Like wross, no issues with the turbo big reds, good brakes when you have good pads, good fluid and a good bleeding and bed in of the pads. With the extra power and speed capability I upgraded to the GT2 calipers which are 6 pistons, but the oem turbo brakes should be good, maybe your rotors/pads are glazed and you have old fluid. I would add that if you have power adders, would highly recommend at least the GT2 cooler for the tranny.... I had the pollen in the pollen filter carbon-dated and there is some there from 2001. I'm considering replacing the filter even if there are no holes in it. I'm glad I got a well-maintained car. Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom or sympathy. Mike Hope this helps, Anders
  19. Ive been searching the various forums about 996TT Differntial Troubleshooting with little succcess. There are lots of opinions about the AWD functionality on the 996tt ranging from complete removal for weight saving and parasitic drag to leaving it as Porsche intended. Although it is obvious when there is a catastrophic failure- there really isnt any information about how to determine if your front differential is working, and if so, at what capacity. The facts are that its an AWD system that can transfer anywhere from 5 to 40% pending conditions and load and that dynoing on a 2WD system (and some AWD models as well) cangrenade your differential. Interestingly, there is also specualtion that using the spare can also cause damage which is why it wasnt included on the 997s (hearsay). Bottom line: Does anyone know how to determine if the front differential is working, and if so, how do we know at what capacity? Any constructive input appreciated. Btw, my differential appears to be fine, although I have dynod on an awd system, and used the spare a couple times.
  20. I replaced the PS2's with the Kumho SPT's recently as well, (Sumitomo was another option). I have found the sidewall a bit softer, but grip is about 95% at around half the cost. I am confident that if you were to a do a tire life/grip/cost comparison, the SPT's would be an obvious choice. Kumho also makes a great track tire.
  21. That was my first thought as well...check the plugs and cracked coil packs.
  22. These directions were spot on, I just completed mine a few minutes ago. Using the spring clamp made this monumentally easier. Thanks!!!
  23. No, you can lower 2-3 inches as opposed to dropping the motor to remove the intake manifold.
  24. I am interested in hearing from people (post or pm) with broken EVOMS wastegates. I have a snapped actuator that contributed to a destroyed K24. From everything I have read and heard, I think there is more to this than coincidence. Posting to the other forums as well. Thanks!
  25. Is your car modified? Sounds like my experience with a bad MAF, definitely check the codes and get back with Loren, he'll lead you in the right direction.
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