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deepblue5280

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Posts posted by deepblue5280

  1. The K24's are a little bigger than the K16's and take a little more time to spool, will be hard to get around physics. Since the engine is more or less an air pump, the trick is to get more air through it spinning the turbos more, Porsche has done a good job with the motor in regards to efficiency,however there are a few things you can do to open the intake and exhaust more, one of the things we did is port match the oem headers, dont waste your time or money on aftermarket, the oem ones are very good, port matching will help some. If you are using a factory exhaust, I would recommend a freer flowing exhaust such as Europipe, 911 tuning and protomotive, a little expensive but will definitely open up the airlfow and sounds fantastic. Porting the heads and some valve work will probably give you the biggest gains but also keep your car down the longest and maybe cost prohibitive pending what you want to do, all the above will do amazing things.

    Hope this helps.

  2. Interecoolers wont *give* you more power but will help prevent loss of power reduced timing from heat. As far as turbos, if you want less lag, the general rule is a smaller turbo, there are some exceptions such as bearing types and hybrid configurations. the simple answer in your case is definitely open up the exhaust (I*really* like the Europipe) and get a well established vendors tune, this alone will make quite a bit of difference for the buck.

  3. You can use modeling plastic and putty and form or reinforce the broken areas. Takes time and patience but definitely doable and a heck of a lot less expensive. I also use rubber washers to help prevent over torqueing

    I have the same problem on both lights just waiting for the LED lights sell on 6speed.:clapping:

    Yeah, both too in my case. Do you have any link to this LED sell on 6speed?

    • Upvote 1
  4. The RAM (hydraulic lift) has failed, you can check the under side of the engine cover to check for moisture (leaking hydraulic fluid), which is not good for painted surfaces.

    This is very common and unfortunately expensive to fix. Most people find a way to leave it down / up position or upgrade the entire engine cover and wing to the GT2 version (What I did) which is lighter and has no moving parts to fail. Several vendors offer the GT2 front and rear, *highly* recommend the urethane vesion of the front bumper if you go that direction.

    You might be able to get used parts but the eventuality of it or the other side failing is a probability

    //Anders

    Hi all

    only the driver side of the spoiler goes up and the other side is not moving at all ,,, any ideas ?

    thanks and regards

  5. Cant help you with the power issues, but you want the parking brakes to appear ON, this is the override that allows you to be able to do inputs and video while driving. It also appears that you do not have the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connected properly and/or the GPS antennae connected or visible to the satellites. Check the satellite reception in the GPS signal menu for singal, this should be giving speed and direction updates, the VSS supplies speed when in a tunnel or no signal.

    Hope this helps.

    //Anders

    Over the weekend I installed an AVIC Z110BT (Which I later flashed to AVIC Z120BT) on my 04 911T following the DYI found on this site. There was a mention in it to swap the red (+12V) and yellow (ACC) in order for the unit to work properly. My Car's "B" harness doesn't have a yellow (ACC) wire. I had the PCM unit with Fiber Optic amp before. I did a search and found an article on where to use a different source for the Switched power (Yellow) using the Tel. option Connector. I connected my AVIC's yellow wire to the switched power of the tel Option Connector and connected the Avic's Red wire with the car's red wire. The head unit power up OK and turn on when I switch the key to the ACC position telling me that everything is fine. The problem I have is that the head unit doesn't retain any AV settings (Ie: HPF, EQ, BSM Station saves etcc...). Everytime I remove the key and power the unit back up I have to re-adjust all settings over again like if the red (Constant 12V) doesn't seems to remain ON. Can someone confirm that the RED Wire on 04 911T remains ON all the time?.

    Other problem I have is with the GPS. I did the GPS bypass (Moving the pin on the AVIC Connector one position and grounding it.) When I go to the NAvi Settings, Connection Status and look for the Parking Brake, it's says ON. Shouldn't this be saying OFF if I grounded the pin?. While driving the GPS unit doesn't doesn't seems to know that I'm moving. Reason I'm saying this is that I did enter a destination route, it's said calculating but was very quiet during the course of my drive. I knew where I was going, I just wanted to see when it would warn me take a left or take a right here etc... it never did. When I pressed on the route I was on on the screen showing how many miles to next turn, it said 40 Miles to next turn eventough it was showing 20 mile to next turn. A few minutes later around 10 miles before next turn, when I pressed again it again said 40 mile to next turn!!!, letting me believe that unit thinks I'm not moving. So should the Parking Status be saying OFF all the time if it is grounded?. If that's the case, then that pin that I moved one slot to the right on the AVIC connector isn't grounded very well!!.

  6. I have a couple questions.. does your battery drain while the car alarm is armed or not? Porsches will drain battery, albeit over time, when the alarm is not armed, the way it was explained to me is that the DME was still processing. the 2nd question is if there is any aftermarket electronics installed? new stereo, amp, radar detector etc.

    First areas I would check are the battery cables that attach to the terminals, make sure they arent worn and shorted on anything, Id sya trunk and engine light but that wouldnt drain the battery that quickly.

    Hello. I'm new on here. 2nd Porsche. 03 996 turbo. I just bought this wonderful machine, but have a major battery drain. It is pulling 317 milliamps when parked!!! My multimeter is nearly melting when I tested the drain....Neg battery post to ground.... and had a huge draw from the battery. I have a brand new battery, but it's dead in just hours. 2 batteries, in fact, both drained quick. The alt. seems to be fine. Any "common areas I should check first?" Thanks

  7. I had the same issue and reused mine on my '01turbo but also checked periodically just in case (Do NOT over-tighten, or life will bedcome messy and complicated;-). After that time I order them 2-3 at a time so I always have them, I also get the copper/bronze crush gaskets for the turbo sumps as well, those are holy hell to find locally if in a pinch.

    HTH

    //Anders

    Quick question, does the small O ring HAVE to be replaced at every oil change or can it be done every other oil change? I ask this because I have an event coming up this weekend and the small O ring part will take till Monday to arrive. I have all the other necessary parts though. Any advice would be helpful thanks!

  8. Great pics and welcome to the UMW family! Kevin is a victim of his own success, I have to check out that Radical!

    Thanks to Mark P. at MVP for a great day. Thanks for the ride in the Radical.

    Car is just hooked up since Kevin@UMW spent a bunch of my dough (suspension upgrade, UMW performance clutch, and UMW flash).

    Couple of events ago I blew a coolant hose and felt so stupid because Kevin told me to swap the hoses out to the 997 hose and superceeded 996 hose as a precaution. Neither of these were the culprit, but the my shop told me they were going to be. I would not ignore this suggestion Kevin has made. One trip across a rumble strip could be all it takes.

    Couple of pics - Anil took these...he shots some of the best pictures I have ever seen.

    _DSC8711-Edit.jpg

    _DSC8705-Edit.jpg

    _DSC8686-Edit.jpg

    I took these - obviously a different quality of picture - I tend to go with the blurred, crappy look.

    The guy who ran the event (Mark P.) took me for a spin in his Radical. 200hp 1000cc Kawasaki engine from a Hayabusa. Curb weight - 1000 lbs.

    DSC_0165.jpg

    DSC_0262.jpg

    DSC_0188.jpg

    DSC_0237.jpg

    Godzilla

    DSC_0053.jpg

    One of the nicest looking M3's I have ever seen

    DSC_0041.jpg

    Roush Mustang

    DSC_0347.jpg

    DSC_0096.jpg

    DSC_0307.jpg

    Some not so good pics of yours truely. I bought some package at the track and will post those when I get them.

    DSC_0425.jpg

    DSC_0368.jpg

  9. I had the same issue, I had some maintenance done at the same time, replaced the sending unit, problem persisted, ended up being the wiring not too far from the sender.

    A couple of months ago, the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 for a second or 2 and then jumped back up to normal. Happened a few times within 10-15 minutes.

    I replaced the sending unit with a new one (part number ends in 02, revised part?), and now after a few hundred miles, the problem is back. I also noticed sometimes the gauge fluctuates when there's no change in rpm. I just checked the connectors on the old unit and there's no corrosion.

    Any suggestions? Should I just try another new sending unit?

    The car is a 03 with 19K miles.

    Thanks.

  10. I expected monkey crap brown or avocado green, your choice in color is fine.

    I am curious about the RMS though, I know the non GT1 cars had an RMS issue, but its news to me on a turbo.

    The new shocks and tires is completely up to you, probably upgrade eventually anyway.

    Depending on the spoiler faults, the RAMs (hydraulic lifts) are known to fail, this can be very expensive and most either leave it full up or down and pull the fuse or get a fixed wing.

    The boots are normal wear, half the rear lights I have seen have the area where it bolts to the car either cracked or broken and not sure about the stalk not holding.

    If you were rally concerned about the RMS get another PPI, that seems suspicious to me but 27k seems like a fair price.

    C. Anders

    Hi all new here (forum and the car)

    I found an '01 911tt with 140000km/87000sm.

    post-58948-049023300 1277791063_thumb.jp

    It's very clean cosmetically, actually surprisingly so. It's standard except for a TechArt exhaust 096.310.885.009. I got an inspection done and they found:

    The dreaded RMS and-

    Rear spoiler faults

    Needs new rear shocks and tyres

    Power steering tank leak

    Front right stabilizer link, boots worn

    Indicator stalk does not hold

    Rear light cluster mounting brackets broken

    The guy wants $27000 for it.

    Apologies for the hand-holding but does this seem a good deal considering the mileage?

    PS No silly jokes about the color, I like it (I know, no accounting for taste) ;)

  11. Yep, alternator. Mine happened all of a sudden, low voltage but had a battery/generator cel. Made horrendous noise when reving motor, good news is you can get a bosch remanufactured for a fraction of the price of new with near same reliability.

    Cant really complain, mine lasted 10 years.

    Hi all,

    Could anybody describe what the symptoms are of alternator failure. I dont have a warning light but the voltage output is down to 11 volts.

    Is this the alternator? How many of you out there have had this problem.

    Any advise /info greatly appreciated.

    Frank

  12. Outside of a minute chance of FOD (Foreign Object Damage) getting into the intake tract, I wouldn't think there would be any harm in driving with boost after re-installing the boost hose outside of it happening again, most people just upgrade to silicon hoses.

    Btw, there was a TSB and design change to the boost hoses back in 01, 02 and maybe 03, I dont know the specifics but it would be due diligence to do a search on the forums, could very well address your situation.

    Last night the passenger-side boost hose popped out of the intercooler on its way up to the plenum (still attached). There was a god-awful loud pop! Anyway, once I shoved it into the hole, all was well, but I was too afraid to boost on the way home (long drive). Made it home fine.

    Today I looked in the engine compartment to check how secure it was. I pulled on it pretty hard and it didn't give. Do you think I'm okay to drive with boost again? Or should I remove the bumper to verify the clip is still there and properly attached?

  13. It is not broken to fix and is by design, one of the advantages is to use the trickle battery charger. Hard wiring the detector into the fuse panel will resolve this.

    Not much help, but this is how it is.

    Hi guys, I have a 02 996 TT, my cigarette plug connects to my radar detector. When I turn my car off and lock the doors with the factory alarm, the radar detector won't turn off automatically even after few hours (cigarette plug still have power), so I need to manually turn it off myself each time. Do you know how to fix this? thx :rolleyes:
  14. Congrats, not bad numbers. Its hard to imagine how anyone can keep these cars stock with the perfomance possible in these motors.

    Hello All. Long time lurker, infrequent poster. I have owned my TT for 4 years now. Picked it up in 06 with 9700 miles and totally stock. It was the realization of lifelong dream. You know the commercial: ...for teh truely afflicted there is decade or two on betweeen"

    It was originally an X50 and had basic performance mods added over the first 2 years.

    For comparison sake Here is my car's dyno with the original K24s with exhaust, wastegates and GIAC Flash. This was a dynojet at an independent third party facility and having gone through rounds of mods after this I am CONVINCED that 500 wheel HP on this dyno was nothing close to 500 wheel HP on GIAC's Mustang Dyno as you will see below. The car is SO much more powerful now. I don't know how much power it really had at the time... maybe 430 REAL wheel HP (540 crank)?

    Ari%202002%20Porsche%20911%20Turbo.jpg

    I upgraded my K24s at my favorite shop Speed Gallery in Studio City this year with the following mods:

    Tial 2860RS (Ball bearing, water cooled Garrett turbos)

    EVO Clubsport ICs

    EVO Diverters

    SpeedTech Y-Pipe and HOSES

    60 lb injectors

    Hitachi MAF

    AAsco LWFW

    New Sachs Clutch

    GIAC was gracious enough to allow me to upgrade my K24 file which i had purchased over 3 years earlier.

    The car was very fast and spool improved tremendously. But I felt like the car wasn't running very well at full throttle. After contacting GIAC, I took the car down there where Garrett and company quickly realized that the file I had was too aggressive (it was an intercooler file). They dyno tuned the car and gave me custom file which while significantly less aggressive in timing and boost, allowed the car to run better and stay off the knock sensor. I picked up about 75 HP and 75 ft lb of torque that day and the car was utterly transformed.

    Here are the before after graphs:

    2860%20Dyno%209%2028.gif

    In looking at the intake air temperatures GIAC was adamant that the car would run better (as is evidenced by the "stair step" HP curve above) with some intercoolers and offered to review the tuning as well address some minor small throttle driveability issues once I installed the upgrades.

    I chose to go with EVO Clubsport ICs and Speedtech Hoses and Y-pipe. The EVO intercooler design allows you to remove the restrictive factory style connectors and combined with the Speedtech Y-pipe really cleans up the airflow path of the compressed air all the way to the throttle body. Once all that was installed I again dropped off the car to GIAC for fine tuning.

    I have had extensive private conversations with several Porsche Turbo owners running non factory MAF setups from several different vendors and the general consensus has been that you have to give up some driveability when you ditch the factory MAF, this is especially true when going with a LWFW. I am very nit-picky and particular when it comes to the small details and really expect stock like driveability. I am very happy with the results. The newest LWFW file GIAC installed is truly BUTTER smooth and stock like just as Garrett had promised.

    Now on to the good stuff! Keep in mind that this is a TRUE 91 octane file, running real 91 octane at 18 PSI ~ 1.22 BAR.

    AriICs996TT.gif

    GIAC's dyno registers a stock TT at about 330 WHP like one would expect. I am very happy knowing that my car is making about 200 WHP more than a stock 996TT on California 91 Craptane gas and 70 more WHP than a stock 997 GT2 on the same dyno. I can't wait to try some 104 and use my GIAC handheld switcher to see how that feels!

    I figure the car now has an honest 650HP on 91 octane and 700? HP on race gas. It's done. Put a fork in it!

    Special thanks to the following vendors and members

    The crew at GIAC for putting up with me and going out of their way to make sure the car runs like I wanted it to

    Dan @ The Speed Gallery

    John @ Speedtech

    Hope you like it!

    Ari

  15. My 996TT had a massive leak once, open the front hood/trunk, 4x10mm bolts on top of the plastic piece (there is a 10mm in the tool kit), remove the plastic cover and there is the access to the fuel hoses and access to the fuel pump. Mine had a hose that popped off, reattached and made sure it was secure, havent had a problem since.

    This might appear to be coming down th shroud, I'd check the hoses and cap first.

    2001 and she seems to have a slow leak.....dribbling down onto the shroud, then garage floor.

    And darn....appears that the differential has to come out for tank replacement, since the tank kinda 'yokes' over the differential....ie tank on both right, left, and top of differential.

    If you site up the right side of dif you can see dampness coming down the back side of tank (above it's mid-seam line).

    I'm going to experiment with keeping it below half full to see if that has any effect.

    Never heard of this before on 996TT but maybe I've missed it.

  16. Check the coolant hose directly behind and below the intake on the driver side of the engine. I just had a coolant hose that kept popping out of the spring tension holder. Its a 30min job at most, remove the airbox and you will clearly see it under the intake hose. 1 spring clip on each side of the hose hold it in. YOu might have to get new spring clips if they have lsot their tension as well.

    Im not sure about the right side, perhaps the water is from one side and flow to the right, removal of the airbox should give you a good view.

    Hope this helps.

    2003 Turbo coolant leaking in two spots, both from the left and right side of the eninige in front of the turbo drain plugs. Woke up and the coolant tank was empty, added 1 gallon of coolant and water and noticed large amounts of both water and coolant leaking from both sides of the engine and not the coolant tank itself. Could this be a water pump?
  17. I wont be much help with your problem, nor have I heard of anyeone having anything close to your issue, but your tool kit should have the 10mm spanner in it.

    Aslo, you might want to remove the spare tire and all associated tools, air pump etc and see of the sound is coming from the top or bottom of the tank. I have a suspicion it might be something rolling around under your spare, there isnt much that moves around inside the tank.

    Definitely follow up, would be interested in what you find.

    Ok here's one for you all.

    I've been getting very annoyed at a strange rattle that happens when I go over cobbles or harsh bumps in the road. I've checked my drop links and track rods and all seam fine. I found the problem area i think..

    I opened by front bonnet and put my hand on the side of the opening I then rocked the car from side to side. all i could hear was the noise that i'm hearing over the bumps at the front of the AWD system. it basicaly sounds like a plastic ball sitting in a dish. when it moves it rattles and then settles back with a decreasing rattling sound.. clunk clunk clunk clunkclunk. its in front of the AWD system so i removed the plastic cover just to find a large metal box covering it all up.. there is then a smaller cover on the top with a lump in the middle of it held on with 4 10mm nuts. I didnt have a spanner with me at work so i decided to give my local Porsche shop a call. The very nice technician said that the fuel tank is in there and there is a float that reads the fuel level. hence the ball in a dish sound i'm hearing.. he had never heard of anything like this before and could not really tell me much other than come in and i'll take a look. he said it could be a pipe that is loose but if it is then it sounds like it's fallen off and not loose.

    Has anyone had this problem or noticed the noise it makes as mine can be heard from inside while driving... does it need a new float or is it one of these anoying things that just come with the car.. I hope I can sort it as it's driving me crazy! especially when friends get in for a drive and say whats that noise it sound like your front ends falling off.... Grr

    Thanks in advance.

    A

    2003 996TT

  18. My comments inline.....

    My '02 70k mi tt-6spd with X50 (X51?) turned out to be an X0. Loren's information from PAG indicated 420hp rather than the 450hp from the VIN decoder available here and the X51 option wasn't on the list. The PO has offered me a modest refund but refuses to believe its not what he thought it was.

    This really stinks, was it presented as an X50 by the seller??

    The thing is, 420hp seemed to make the car scary fast. But after a month of driving I've concluded that, on hard acceleration, the rear end squats and the front end gets light and the car gets squirrely like the thrust is making the car go sideways. Is this a reasonable assessment?

    Rear squatting could be either a soft suspension or the rear bushings...mine squatted as well, but I also have 200-300hp more than stock. in addition to suspension I swapped out the dog bones and the bushings, helps with tire wear as well.

    If a suspension upgrade is in the cards I will want something that works well (i.e. somewhat comfortable and controllable) on the the bumpy back roads and an occasional DE since this is a daily driver. I'm leaning toward the PSS10s because I've been buying Bilsteins since 1977 and have had good luck with them. But the PSS9s I put on a 993 C2 were a bit on the harsh side and the rear height adjustment required taking half the suspension apart to be able to turn the piece that the sway bar end link mounted to. Unless I was doing it wrong. It looks like the 996 version is the same design. That piece ought to be a sleeve that is sandwiched between two nuts. Are the PSS10s worth $600 more than the H&R coilovers and how do they compare for primarily street use? Or is there a better choice in the same $ range? If this solves the squat problem with 420hp, will it still work at 550?

    Nothing wrong with PSS's however, I prefer the Porsche X73, it lowers the car, extremely well balanced and is not too harsh or too soft, if you want something adjustable, PSS is probably the way to go for the money, whatever option you so should be good to at least 600hp.

    I am trying to get good quality replacement components cheap, like exhaust, bigger intercoolers, headers, mostly things that will work with the k16 system I have now and with future upgrades. Does anyone know if the 997 intercoolers are comparable in capacity to the 996 X50/GT2 intercoolers and reasonably easy to install. I know they are cheap and available. It seems that I've read somewhere that the 997 intercoolers have been adopted from the 911 Turbo (996) and optimized. In order to improve charge-air cooling, the ducts in the rear side sections of the body have been modified. By increasing the cross-section of each duct by approx. 10 % it has been possible to reduce flow resistance and to improve the air flow into the radiator cores. This results in more efficient intercooling for increased power and torque.

    I'll save you some money so you can buy a good exhaust, just like wross said, dont worry about the k16 headers, they are very decent as is, later on get them port matched and dont worry about IC's until you get up to the 600hp level and evoms or umw both make very good sets. I would highly recommend a good exhaust, I have had a fabspeed and my current EuroPipe, the EP is by far the best exhaust I have heard, just a little pricey.

    So, they are the same size as which 996 intercooler? but with better heat removal due to improved convection?

    Does being adopted from the 996tt mean the plain tt or the GT2? And, if they are the larger ones (which is very likely considering the output of the 997) how difficult would they be to install on a 996? Is there anyone with that experience? Yea, I know, I really want intercoolers with metal ends.

    No answer, no idea, I would guess normal turbo.

    The seals on the output flanges of my front diff are leaking slightly. It took about 4 or 5 ounces of lube to fill it back up - I wasn't going to change out the fluid until I pull the flanges and replace seals when I do the front suspension. Is this a common problem? This is a job I am not looking forward to doing, but if I have to, I will do it and take pictures.

    What is the deal with these brakes (red, monoblock)? Stopping power has always been one of Porsche's fortes (forti?) but these leave a lot to be desired. The rotors are down to the limit and I need new pads - I'm sure that replacing rotors and pads will improve things but are these calipers up to the task?

    Like wross, no issues with the turbo big reds, good brakes when you have good pads, good fluid and a good bleeding and bed in of the pads. With the extra power and speed capability I upgraded to the GT2 calipers which are 6 pistons, but the oem turbo brakes should be good, maybe your rotors/pads are glazed and you have old fluid.

    I would add that if you have power adders, would highly recommend at least the GT2 cooler for the tranny....

    I had the pollen in the pollen filter carbon-dated and there is some there from 2001. I'm considering replacing the filter even if there are no holes in it. I'm glad I got a well-maintained car.

    Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom or sympathy.

    Mike

    Hope this helps,

    Anders

  19. Ive been searching the various forums about 996TT Differntial Troubleshooting with little succcess.

    There are lots of opinions about the AWD functionality on the 996tt ranging from complete removal for weight saving and parasitic drag to leaving it as Porsche intended. Although it is obvious when there is a catastrophic failure- there really isnt any information about how to determine if your front differential is working, and if so, at what capacity. The facts are that its an AWD system that can transfer anywhere from 5 to 40% pending conditions and load and that dynoing on a 2WD system (and some AWD models as well) cangrenade your differential. Interestingly, there is also specualtion that using the spare can also cause damage which is why it wasnt included on the 997s (hearsay).

    Bottom line: Does anyone know how to determine if the front differential is working, and if so, how do we know at what capacity?

    Any constructive input appreciated.

    Btw, my differential appears to be fine, although I have dynod on an awd system, and used the spare a couple times.

  20. I replaced the PS2's with the Kumho SPT's recently as well, (Sumitomo was another option). I have found the sidewall a bit softer, but grip is about 95% at around half the cost. I am confident that if you were to a do a tire life/grip/cost comparison, the SPT's would be an obvious choice. Kumho also makes a great track tire.

  21. That was my first thought as well...check the plugs and cracked coil packs.

    Jack, what kind of plugs did you use for your replacement. Sometimes software is written for a specific plug /plug type. I know for my giac flash, according to GIAC the car would not run as well if I ran something like an iridium plug. You might want to check with FVD to see if your plug selection was acceptable. Just a thought.
  22. These directions were spot on, I just completed mine a few minutes ago. Using the spring clamp made this monumentally easier.

    Thanks!!!

    Just finished this TSB and got some pictures to go with the words. This is not stand alone, but use them with the TSB.

    1. Don't forget to disconnect the tray lock connector before pulling the console out. Remeber to lay back the passenger seat for easier removal or console.

    post-4600-1124638880_thumb.jpg

    2. Use the T10 torx screw driver or bit to remove the 8 screws holding the leather top to the plastic cover.

    post-4600-1124638954_thumb.jpg

    3. Here it is removed, and now the cover looks like without it.

    post-4600-1124639159_thumb.jpg

    post-4600-1124639203_thumb.jpg

    4. One picture above, keep hand for re-assembly. The two phillips screws need to be removed next. Remove the cover from console, and use a pin tool (Sears sells a set for $10) to knock out pin holding the hinge together.

    post-4600-1124639353_thumb.jpg

    5. Use a small handsaw to remove the plastic that remains from the old hinge. Sand as needed for smooth, but don't go crazy, the new hinge will cover it.

    post-4600-1124639463_thumb.jpg

    6. Insert the U brackets from kit in this location

    post-4600-1124639535_thumb.jpg

    7. Next set the metal hinge in to position.

    post-4600-1124639621_thumb.jpg

    8. Next, I used a small spring clamp to hold hinge in place while drilling hole with 5/32" bit (same as 4 mm). The bit should go through the metal as well as the plastic.

    post-4600-1124639830_thumb.jpg

    9. Follow the TSB to insert the rivet. I purchased from Lowes a Rivet tool for $16.95 shown below. insert the long part of the rivet into the tool and close the handle. That is all you got to do.

    post-4600-1124640312_thumb.jpg

    10. Re-assembly is the reverse. Push the pin back in, insert the spring, insert the nylon strap, and screw in place. Partial assembly below for reference.

    Good luck, hope it helps

    Izzu

  23. Is your car modified? Sounds like my experience with a bad MAF, definitely check the codes and get back with Loren, he'll lead you in the right direction.

    The check engine light only comes on for about 5 seconds, while the car is stumbling, when I let off the gas the car quits stumbling and the check engine light goes out. While the check engine light is on the center dash says to drive to a qualified repair shop. I am in Portland.

    Joel

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