Ronnie38

Thanks folks... I guess the proper term I meant was spark plug socket connector - do I need to put some dielectric grease in the connector?

So you think I should just leave the plugs alone then, or pull and wipe off the anti-seize on the plug? I don't put very many miles on the car, so I don't anticipate being in there to change them again any time soon.

Use the anti seize compound. Porsche wrote that warning because some anti seize compounds are electrical insulators, which is not a good thing on plugs. Fortunatley, most anti seize compounds sold in North America are metal paste types, which are fully electrically conductive, and can be used on plugs with no problems. Also put a dab of dielectric grease on the plug ceramic to aid in seal and removal of the coil packs in the future.

I agree, Al. heads and cad-ed plugs will still seize after 10k miles, if no compound is used. Why mess up a good thread! Always use a non-petroleum lube on the O-rings or any rubber like substance. I prefer the copper based anti-seize product vs the aluminum ones.

Being an ex BMW owner, I had the same problem the purists say OEM only, pocket book said cheep cheep.

As to water pumps, as a long time Beemer owner OEM lasted the same time as the off the shelf local auto parts house, except they may have a life time guaranty then that's the one to get, I prefer composite impeller, less weight to turn, plus I have metal ones including brass wear, corrode down.

Get the best guaranty, if you plan on keeping the machine.

I have a 2001 C4 and live in TX. I have PSM and made sure the dia. was as close as possible and a soft compound, sticky is better then slippery. So I chose Kumho SPT's 295/30ZR18 rears and 225/40ZR18 fronts.

thanks.

I manually moved the top when replacing the rear window, now it will not open and close correctly, got it closed but the red top lamp in on.

If the Durametric can reset the tops controller it may be a better buy then taking to the dealer.

I don't know about Porsche this is my first one, but on the BMW's you just have to replace the relay with the Canadian one. This I know and have done it. It causes the high beam light to come on at a reduced voltage.

According to Bentley pg.97-27 relay panel 1 has relays 6 and 7 as daytime running lights hopefully they have wired it a volt meter should tell you. You will have to find the part number, maybe one off the Canadian members can help.

I also have a 1952 MGTD that had spun a bearing on number 1. I took the crank. to a truck/industrial engine machine shop, they built up the crank and machined it to back stock size. so bearings were not a problem. Works like a champ, good for another 50K. Only cost $100.00

They looked like Deutsch Connectors, try looking on Digikey, or Mouser web pages. If you look real close you may find the manufactures name.

2003 996 C4S

Here's my question, I've had my instrument cluster in and out 3 or 4 times to change out the Porsche check light for the LS3 V8
MIL light. (Malfunction indicator light?

The 3 large colored plugs have deteriorated to the point that the over center clamps have broken off. It appears that the
clamps are necessary to make complete contact with the recessed pins on the back of the instrument cluster. Does anyone know
if you can just buy the gray, blue and green plugs without the attaching harness?

Thanks,

Ditto on that, had that problem on my Z3M, re-lubing worked for 3 years, then a bearing froze so I had to replace it.

Did you wash the care just before the problem started?

If not then, just guessing, but try clean the MAP, and check or replace the fuel filter.

being an Old Man now, What you need is to make sure that the tire compound is the same or softer in the rears. In the old days there were color dots to show you the softness of the racing compound, those days are gone now you have to find the specifications. a lot of tire dealers don't know what you are talking about. Now days the hardest compound is used on hybrids minimum rolling resistance. The softest are snow tires. The reason for like compound is so the rear tires don't brake loose and pass the front tires. And if the front are to hard, steering on corners becomes a *****

On my '03, the pump has 7 bolts (yours the same), there are two holes with steel inserts. Two of the bolts are longer.

See here http://www.vertexauto.com/UserData/Images/Large/4615.jpg

Those two holes receive the two longer bolts.

Thanks for the heads up.

Vin will not help as much as your options list. I found mine on the lid of my trunk (front hood). Porsche prices its car via options.

Check the fluid, if ok, bleed the system, if the system has not been replaced in the past 3 years replace it. Air and water contaminate it.

I have found that there are metric and US versions of the Torx bits. The smaller bits work ok on metric heads, but the larger do not.

What you can do is use an impact driver on the screw to break it loose.

Thanks, The fuses were ok, by putting my finger into the top latch I was able to move the rear windows up, Installed the glass, put the top up but the top lid didn't go down. I used the Allen key to move the lid down, but the top light is on.

Tried putting the top down but the lid didn't move I opened the lid with the Allen key top went down, put it back up allen key to move the lid back down, top light on.

Will I have to go to the dealer to have the top reset, or is there another problem.

will do in the morn.

After a rear window regulator replacement my top wouldn't go up. the top had been in its service position, and had leaked down the rear lip was still up. I went to put the top down, to lower the rear lip, then hit the raise button nothing happened, I need to get the top up so I can raise the regulator to install the window. If I put the hardtop on will it allow the rear windows to go up? So I can put the interior back together. Then if need be off to the dealers.

After much research on DIY info on the net, service manuals etc. for the past 3 months while recovering from surgery. I proceeded to replace it. All the DIY information I got to the last item to remove the old, the bottom nut. This nut was a pinch nut on the bottom adjustment bracket, I could look down and see it clearly the bracket had a t shaped opening so that when you loosen the nut you could slide it out. The problem was how to loosen the nut. It was at the bottom of the car to deep to reach it with a normal wrench and the slot was too narrow and not wide enough for box end wrench and to narrow for an open end one, so I ground down an open end and welded a re-rod to it. I was able to turn it about a 1/8 of a turn, then I couldn't get it to turn any more. My neighbor came over and we tried many things to no avail, then he stuck a socket extension into the windows wire harness grommet, eureka I could see the ext. we removed the grommet put a 13mm socket on it and backed it off, bingo out with the old and in with the new.

Sounds like you have the lub in the key switch and set belt latch getting very thick with the cold. Being originally from Minnesota I would take a can of WD 40 and wash out the key cly. and seat belt catch, and after the it dries use dry lub "graphite" also get a can of contact cleaner from Radio Shack or Digi-Key and wash out the switches with it, they will collect grease and cold will stiffing up also.

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I have been trying to replace the rear window regulator. My question How do I back off the bottom nut on the regulator? I had to grind down a 13mm wrench so it would fit in to the slot, and mounted it to a wood stick so I could get on the nut. I moved it a little but nut enough to allow me to turn the ground down open end and move it again. Is there a tool made to allow me to the loosen up the nut. Or any other ideas?

This spring I had to make a decision, got my settlement from an accident replace my car Z3M, went to the auction in Kissimmee then Houston wanted to buy one of my old cars, AH3000, XKE, P car 356. Mean while test drove cars here in Houston found out my left hip would not shift correctly with or without pain, so I needed a Auto found a 996 C4 cab pure enjoyment. Do you want a garage queen or drive the hell out of it.

I have a in/lb, a ft/lb and a 3/4 drive ft/lb click type and a old 200lb/lb bent bar type which I have put pipes on it to increase the amount of toque. Each for different type of fastener.

You can never have to many tools.

Do a Google search on Dex-cool, life time coolant. Then do what you must.

There is a computer mounted on the passenger side of the compartment under a plastic vent looking cover. Does anyone know what it is for?