Kevin M.

I had my shop try this fix on my CTTS and so far so good, we reinforced it more than he did.

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/825226-cardan-shaft.html

I had same cracked hose, and T pipe cracked, also when changing air filters I noticed the hose attached to air box had come off, excited to think this could be the problem, but it wasn't. Check your hose, it's visible with a green connector on passenger side airbox.

I have the same exact problem on my 04 S, I also notice when I enter my garage which is at fairly steep angle it tends to cause the idle to dip more so than a normal stop and causes the car to vibrate. I just did the idle reset as well.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...DE=02&cat=5

Loren, I need to do the same thing, can you direct me to a direct link to the diagram?

Thanks

Congrats on your 996 and welcome to the board, the dealer sells the kit or check eBay.

I'd stick with the factory carbon.

First post here on Renntech...

Just bought a 996 and need to spruce up the interior and this looks like something that I can do (did a full dash swap on my 951). Where does one get the trim kit? Pongobaz - if you have any thoughts on where to get the carbon fibre kit in Canada - I would greatly appreciate the advice.

Many thanks

Fergus

Congrats on your 996 and welcome to the board, the dealer sells the kit or check eBay.

I'd stick with the factory carbon.

First post here on Renntech...

Just bought a 996 and need to spruce up the interior and this looks like something that I can do (did a full dash swap on my 951). Where does one get the trim kit? Pongobaz - if you have any thoughts on where to get the carbon fibre kit in Canada - I would greatly appreciate the advice.

Many thanks

Fergus

Kevin, is that transmission pan?

Yes, but dealer confirmed coolant, leaky plastic pipes. Do you have a TSB for the replacement pipes?

Inspect the coolant pipes running under the intake manifold. Any warrantry on the vehicle?

It's ATF, coming from that black piece in the middle picture around the seal. No warranty, just my handy hands.

Loren any PDF's on the replacing that seal?

Well she has sprung a leak....I've found where it's coming from...

Any takers on the fluid and where?

I can't believe know one has suggested pull the instrument cluster and pop the bulb out :)

Just a quick question...How did you get the driver side vent out? I can't seem to get to the screw that holds it in place as I am trying to change my headlight switch (not turning on headlights). Thanks.

From what I recall the only screws are the two on the side, and also another one that is in the right corner behind that headlight switch your trying to replace. Once those are out, it does take some effort to pull it out. Hope this helps

i did this swap about 3 weeks ago

there is NO question in my mind that the money trick is using a soldering iron to pop the screws "back"

that being said, make sure you get all the screws out of the dash so they dont rattle while driving like they did for me.

whoever had this idea for the iron is a genius.

if anyone neds any guidance feel free to pm me.

the new dash strips look MUCH nicer

i have mine in arcitve silver to match the exterior.

I've been called a lot of things, and genius isn't on of them :thumbup:

Glad it worked for you!

Loren any PDF's on installing mud flaps, not for me! a friend :)

Gary, there is a set on ebay..

Sport Exhuast on ebay

Silver replacement came from ebay.

This info is for the 996 airbag removal, the same would apply to the Cayenne

There are two hex screws that hold the airbag in place, you can see them

behind the wheel. Unplug the two plugs using a flat screwdriver for one, and pull of the other. Be sure to leave the ignition off while unplugging the airbag, otherwise it will turn the airbag light on. After you

have the airbag out you will notice that its surround by a black plastic

housing, simply release all the black tabs and the airbag itself comes right out. You can then see the back of the gold crest. There is a small metal tab that holds the washer in place, I used a dremel to shave it off, once its

off the gold crest pops right out and then you just attach the new crest in

its place with the double sided tape I provide. Put it all back together the same way and your done.

Hi

What did you use to remove the rear badge?  Where did you buy the silver replacement from?

Cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

6. install the strut back in the housing and don't tighten yet

7. place a jack under the shock to compress it so you can put it on the arm. It kind of hard. You need to be a little strong. Once on the arm the bolt wont align. Use a screw driver to lift up the shock just a little on the arm so you can push the bolt through. Once through assemble every thing back. In this pic I used spring compressors to tighten the springs down so we could get the bolt on

Old & New bumpstops

Thats about it..

All back together

Rear

1. Remove the long 18mm bolt connecting the strut to the arm

2. Disconnect both sides of the sway bar. 17mm open end and 15mm nut the bar should swing easy on the mounts.

3.Use pry bar, screwdriver to force the shock of its mount.

4. Go in the car remove the pannel behind the rear seat. It has no clips. Or for the cab, lower the top so the lid is open, then release the two wires to lift the back of the top up, one wire on each side, you can then access the area where the top of the strut is

5. Remove the 3 15mm nuts to drop the strut. Once the strut is droped you can prepare the new one. It is similar to preparing the front. Use the new bump stops. The nut on top is 18MM.

1. Remove the shorud on the trunk with a torx screwdriver. t-20

2. Loosen the 18mm sway bar bolt that is in strut and remove

3. Loosen and remove the nuts that connect abs wires and brake line so you can move the arm more up and down. You might have to take out the caliper off the hub.

4. remove the 3 13mm bolts from the top of the trunk that holds the strut to the body.

5. Push down the arm and the strut will be in the wheel well.

6. this is the hard part push down the strut and pull it towards you to pull out of the wheel well. Becareful not to hit your fender. You might need to remove the 18 mm blot that conects the cross arm in the front to the main A arm so the arm has more movement. I did not need to.

7. once cleared you can slide out the strut from the spindle assembly and prepare the new one.

8. Remove the 21mm nut on top of the strut. Becareful I used a impact air wrench and push your weight down so the spring dosenot pop up in your face. The stock spring are not that strong so you can do this. Pay attention to how it comes appart. Put all the necessary parts on the new strut( bumpstop washer housing) and assemeble back wards. The new springs are shorter so the assemble may not have any tension.

9. If your car has Xenon lights remove the little sensor nuts that is hook up to the A arm. This is in the driver side

Well I decided to bring her down a bit, I have had a set of Gemballa Lowering Springs (made by H&R) in my garage for the last year. Gert helped me with the all the parts needed, I purchased Bilstein Sport Shocks, Euro rear bumpstops, also upgraded stabilizer bars. After looking at the factory stabilizer bar up front, I really didn't see much of a difference in the upgraded one, and it didn't look like a simple project to remove and install the new bar. So I passed on the stabilizer bars since Im really only looking for a lower look and slightly better handling on the track. Since the 996 only sees 1-2 track days per year I decided not to do the full PSS9's. The shocks were about $700 and I had the springs already $300. The stabilizer bars will go back to the dealer, so bumpstops were only $10. I started with the front since that was supposed to be the most difficult. I did one side on my own, but needed help on the other side, the difficult part is removing the strut while pushing down and avoiding the fender. This took two sets of hands. I have a air compressor so that came in very handy. Front was actually not that difficult, the rear was fun to say the least. You have to jack up the shock to line it up to fit the bolt at the bottom. Well that wasn't easy, of course once we figured out the secret the 2nd one was easier. All in all it was about a 5 hour project. I used the instructions from a guy over on the Rennlist board. They came in very handy. The ride is perfect height, not to low, I would say it lowered it about 3/4 of inch, and I think it will settle a little lower after more driving. As far as handling I noticed that it was slightly tighter around corners, and over bumps. Also I noticed that when I punch it, it didn't raise up the front end as much as it did before. I will get the full affect of the ride after Thunderhill on the 9th. OK here are some before & after pics...

Click pics for High Res Shots..

Before

After

Before (front)

After (front)

Before (rear)

After (rear)

After

After

Just did this on a friends 996 airbag, haven't attempted my Cayenne yet.

I just put the silver crest over the gold, looks good to me

Silver Crest on ebay

You can't order them from the dealer..no part numbers

Hmm not sure which holes your referring to.... I do know that the center bumper support bracket has to be cut in order for the TT bumper to fit correctly, can you take a pic of what your referring to.

There are no part numbers for this because its not made by Porsche, they are aftermarket.. check ebay for best prices..

Pics of the holes drilled..

Clicks on pics for high res shots..

Before

During

After

OK maybe I'll see you out there!